Driver's side window sticking
#1
Driver's side window sticking
Tried to roll my driver's side window down today and it got stuck. Then it wouldn't come back up. Kept trying and it would go down but not back up. Not sure how, but I eventually coaxed it into coming up, and left it like that.
Figuring I'll tear into the door soon. I'll be following the FSM. Any tips before I get cracking?
Figuring I'll tear into the door soon. I'll be following the FSM. Any tips before I get cracking?
#3
Not as far as I heard. There was traffic around me during the events I described above, and I haven't tested it since because I have a lot of driving to do in the next few days and don't want to be stuck with a window that won't close. Would it have been loud enough to be heard over mild engine noise (from me) and tire noise (from other cars)?
#4
Registered
iTrader: (1)
One common failure mode is for the plastic gears inside the window lift motor to strip, which means the window randomly stops when the gear gets to the stripped part and makes an awful grinding noise. You would have heard it. Doesn't seem like this is your issue but I've replaced the motors on both passenger and driver side.
#9
I'm having a bit different window problem...drivers side operates fine except when rolled all the way up it makes a loud clicking/grinding sound. It almost acts like it doesn't know its already rolled up and trying to keep rolling up...if that makes sense?
would this be caused by the motor or regulator?
would this be caused by the motor or regulator?
#10
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I'm having a bit different window problem...drivers side operates fine except when rolled all the way up it makes a loud clicking/grinding sound. It almost acts like it doesn't know its already rolled up and trying to keep rolling up...if that makes sense?
would this be caused by the motor or regulator?
would this be caused by the motor or regulator?
#11
Water Foul
Amusingly, I just had my car at the stealership for a compression test and asked them to look at my window, which is doing the same thing. Their diagnosis is bad teeth on the motor gear, therefore motor replacement. They wanted $500 parts and labor to do it. Worst case scenario is regulator and motor replacement. Best case scenario is gear repair kit. Here are the parts:
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=G22C5858XF&ref=nb_sb_noss
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=G22C5858XF&ref=nb_sb_noss
#12
I replaced the motor a while back (2 years ago) I had no problem. I purchased both the motor and the gear. The gear ended up being what was broken but it was a little bit of a pain to get to it. If I had to do it again I'd probably just do the motor as its a lot faster and not worth it if you don't have want to struggle and want to do it quickly. but you save 30 bucks if you do just the gear....
#13
Water Foul
I went ahead and replaced the whole motor unit, which did solve my problem. BTW, the Dorman part has all the exact same markings as the OE part; it is the OE part.
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