Aluminum undertray for Series II?
#1
nowakm99
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Etobicoke, Canada
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Aluminum undertray for Series II?
Gents, I have search all over this forum as well as various Mazda aftermarket vendors in search of an aluminum undertray for the Series II (2010 R3 specifically).
Does anyone know if anyone makes an aftermarket aluminum tray for our car?
Does anyone know if anyone makes an aftermarket aluminum tray for our car?
#2
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Did you try Mazmart?
#5
Super Moderator
The S2 OEM aluminium under tray is not the same as Series 1.
S2 one is S2 specific, goes under the larger S2 Oil Pan (Sump), and is held on by 9 bolts, and is ridiculously expensive @ $345.
Mazda Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts
Oil drain plug location is also in a different position in S2 and drain plug is a recessed hex one.
S2 one is S2 specific, goes under the larger S2 Oil Pan (Sump), and is held on by 9 bolts, and is ridiculously expensive @ $345.
Mazda Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts
Oil drain plug location is also in a different position in S2 and drain plug is a recessed hex one.
#9
Super Moderator
Actually NO they are different...
OEM Series 1 black plastic under tray is a different part number as the S1 OEM replacement is S1 Only sold as a 3 piece assembled part, that is the flattish under tray and the two separate sides that are riveted onto the large flat tray @ 90 degrees...
Mazda Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts
OEM Series 2 black plastic under tray is a different part number as the S2 OEM replacement is S2 Only sold as a 3 piece assembled part, that is the flattish under tray and the two separate sides that are riveted onto the large flat tray @ 90 degrees...
Mazda Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts
What are the actual differences between "The Series 1 and 2" ?, well not a lot AFAiCT.
Each 3 piece 'belly pan', consists of the large main piece and two upright sides (one each side).
The one main (large) centre piece is identical, the exact same sub part and sub part number (but not sold separately) for Series 1 and Series 2.
The two much smaller black plastic 'side uprights' on each side of all of the flat plastic belly pans are then riveted on at factory, it is these OEM sub Parts which have and use different sub install part numbers (a left and right hand side).
Having not done a side by side (S1 and S2) comparison of these OEM small sided or uprights, I believe the differences could just be related to the OEM wiring harness locations and or holding clip punch holes.
I have a new spare OEM S2 F189-56-110C '3 piece' complete tray here which includes the 'sub' part numbers embossed on each part.
OEM Series 1 black plastic under tray is a different part number as the S1 OEM replacement is S1 Only sold as a 3 piece assembled part, that is the flattish under tray and the two separate sides that are riveted onto the large flat tray @ 90 degrees...
Mazda Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts
OEM Series 2 black plastic under tray is a different part number as the S2 OEM replacement is S2 Only sold as a 3 piece assembled part, that is the flattish under tray and the two separate sides that are riveted onto the large flat tray @ 90 degrees...
Mazda Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts
What are the actual differences between "The Series 1 and 2" ?, well not a lot AFAiCT.
Each 3 piece 'belly pan', consists of the large main piece and two upright sides (one each side).
The one main (large) centre piece is identical, the exact same sub part and sub part number (but not sold separately) for Series 1 and Series 2.
The two much smaller black plastic 'side uprights' on each side of all of the flat plastic belly pans are then riveted on at factory, it is these OEM sub Parts which have and use different sub install part numbers (a left and right hand side).
Having not done a side by side (S1 and S2) comparison of these OEM small sided or uprights, I believe the differences could just be related to the OEM wiring harness locations and or holding clip punch holes.
I have a new spare OEM S2 F189-56-110C '3 piece' complete tray here which includes the 'sub' part numbers embossed on each part.
#12
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
They may be different part numbers but the pans are the same in terms of fitment and mounting. Like I said, we have few on S2's including Hoss-05's 2005 S2 conversion.
And yes, you typically use the stock uprights (just drill out the rivets and use provided hardware) as they rarely get damaged, they are really tough. We are working on uprights though, mainly to accommodate for the turbo piping and such.
My original tray was hand cut and I ran it for years without issue, then we decided to just improve on that design.
And yes, you typically use the stock uprights (just drill out the rivets and use provided hardware) as they rarely get damaged, they are really tough. We are working on uprights though, mainly to accommodate for the turbo piping and such.
My original tray was hand cut and I ran it for years without issue, then we decided to just improve on that design.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 06-30-2015 at 12:00 PM.
#13
Super Moderator
They may be different part numbers but the pans are the same in terms of fitment and mounting. Like I said, we have few on S2's including Hoss-05's 2005 S2 conversion.
And yes, you typically use the stock uprights (just drill out the rivets and use provided hardware) as they rarely get damaged, they are really tough. We are working on uprights though, mainly to accommodate for the turbo piping and such.
My original tray was hand cut and I ran it for years without issue, then we decided to just improve on that design.
And yes, you typically use the stock uprights (just drill out the rivets and use provided hardware) as they rarely get damaged, they are really tough. We are working on uprights though, mainly to accommodate for the turbo piping and such.
My original tray was hand cut and I ran it for years without issue, then we decided to just improve on that design.
I don't assume everyone here in forum has the same capabilities, and assume everyone wants to mod their car to the same level as others do particularly from the OP's two line original request.
All good.
#14
Super Moderator
you (or installer) will have to drill out the 8 alloy rivets (4 each side) through plastic first to remove old plastic tray, then to save and reuse the 2 plastic uprights (one each side).
I might even buy one myself as it is more robust than the plastic OEM.
#15
Super Moderator
#18
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
The only real benefit is strength. I bottomed out at 70MPH with my last one and it was fixed in five minutes with a dead blow hammer. But of course with a bad enough incident you could potentially do a more damage with an aluminum tray than with the OEM one. But I have never seen that with any of the people running aluminum trays.
#20
***** Stalker since 2006
iTrader: (3)
I know... old post
... Nope. This item would be best with the exact opposite of what you are thinking. (purely ''couch engineering'' on my end)
Flat keeps things simple, if anything... added louvers would be reversed to draw even more air from under the car into the engine bay (more air through radiator).
Flat keeps things simple, if anything... added louvers would be reversed to draw even more air from under the car into the engine bay (more air through radiator).
#21
The S2 OEM aluminium under tray is not the same as Series 1.
S2 one is S2 specific, goes under the larger S2 Oil Pan (Sump), and is held on by 9 bolts, and is ridiculously expensive @ $345.
Mazda Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts
Oil drain plug location is also in a different position in S2 and drain plug is a recessed hex one.
S2 one is S2 specific, goes under the larger S2 Oil Pan (Sump), and is held on by 9 bolts, and is ridiculously expensive @ $345.
Mazda Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts
Oil drain plug location is also in a different position in S2 and drain plug is a recessed hex one.
#22
Registered
iTrader: (25)
they're probably either M6x1.00 or M8x1.25, but let me put on my Ash-hat and try to pretend for a few minutes:
parts diagram for 56-111 front undercover:
.
Side/rear screws, 6 total
.
Front lip screws, 4 total
.
Front rivet clips
.
I can’t find the actual aluminum cover under the engine being depicted, but if I understood Ash then it’s actually included as part of the front plastic cover? I would expect it to use the same side/rear screws as indicated above. An S2 owner gave me an aluminum cover following an LS V8 swap, but it’s still sitting at the back of the garage.
usually Home Depot, Lowes, etc. hardware type stores have a display with threaded studs and holes to check and confirm the size and thread. Around these parts, Lowes is more likely to have stainless metric bolts if you’re looking to upgrade them.
.
parts diagram for 56-111 front undercover:
.
Side/rear screws, 6 total
.
Front lip screws, 4 total
.
Front rivet clips
.
I can’t find the actual aluminum cover under the engine being depicted, but if I understood Ash then it’s actually included as part of the front plastic cover? I would expect it to use the same side/rear screws as indicated above. An S2 owner gave me an aluminum cover following an LS V8 swap, but it’s still sitting at the back of the garage.
usually Home Depot, Lowes, etc. hardware type stores have a display with threaded studs and holes to check and confirm the size and thread. Around these parts, Lowes is more likely to have stainless metric bolts if you’re looking to upgrade them.
.
#23
Super Moderator
@ASH8 Apologies for reviving an old thread, but do you know the part number for that aluminum undertray that covers the S2 oil pan? I’m trying to figure out the bolt size since mine is missing a few bolts and it rattles a lot.
F189-34-H80D
https://www.realmazdaparts.com/oem-p...ver-f18934h80d
#24
“Whale-oil-beef-hooked”
Oh man Team you left yourself W I D E open on this one! At least in my world at work and land of personal attacks cause coworkers like each other. You gave me a good laugh - my crass brain read that as ***-hat. I’ll duck out of here now since I’ve nothing else to offer. 😀
Edit - No offense meant Ash.
Edit - No offense meant Ash.
#25
Registered
iTrader: (25)
it was meant towards me kidding around making light of attacking and demeaning myself, not Ash; he’s quite a good bloke!
And where is the aluminum sump guard in the larger diagrams Ash? I looked everywhere that seemed logical and couldn’t locate it.
edit: oh, I see it’s with the subframe/front suspension category rather than with the front under cover
and holy smokes; $600 for a piece of aluminum sheet, that’s crazy. I should copy the one I have and get to work laser cutting and bead rolling a few.
.
And where is the aluminum sump guard in the larger diagrams Ash? I looked everywhere that seemed logical and couldn’t locate it.
edit: oh, I see it’s with the subframe/front suspension category rather than with the front under cover
and holy smokes; $600 for a piece of aluminum sheet, that’s crazy. I should copy the one I have and get to work laser cutting and bead rolling a few.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 12-29-2023 at 11:43 PM.