mmw

Ok, so I thought I knew about spinning the piston back in, etc., but - while admittedly I'm not using the proper little ratchet tool (my son took it to college - thanks!), both rear pistons are spinning freely using channel-lock pliers. But they're not going back into the bore. Is there something I'm missing here? I even tried spinning one with a little pressure from a c-clamp and that did nothing either. Seems like I've turned them each a hundred times - what's the trick?!

Thanks much for any help

SouthFL

Purchase the little cube tool from an auto parts. Open M/C cap. PUSH and turn piston simultaneously.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

open the bleeder screw....wind the piston back into the caliper. It is important that it backs all the way in for the caliper to work properly.

Watch you don't spill the brake fluid on any painted surface.

mmw

Thanks guys, guess I'll grab another of the tools because it seems like you need three hands to hold everything and turn it back in with channel locks and put some pressure on it as well.

Is there a greater advantage to opening the bleeder at the caliper vs. the MC cap?

I'm back at it tomorrow - and thanks again.

shaunv74

Yes. Open it at the caliper and make sure to push in hard. If you're doing it right you will notice it back in pretty quickly.

SouthFL

Opening the bleeder screw as dannobre recommended is more effective.

SouthFL

I have one stubborn rear piston which summons all my strength to get it to rotate back in- even with the bleeder screw open.

SouthFL

FWIW, a tool set like this is worth its price.



They're available on Amazon and at several online retailers.


http://www.amazon.com/Professional-D...6191960&sr=8-2

2SeeKU

iTrader: (1)

Your not alone there...

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

How are the caliper seals? The rebuild kits are cheap..and it's an easy job

byez

It must be backed all the way in? Isn't backed up enough just to fit over the brake pads enough? (assuming the pin on the pad lines up with caliper slot)

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Yup...I had problems with them not retracting properly with new pads...and that was what i figured out was the problem. When I rebuilt the calipers I had a good look at the mechanism for the emergency brake...and that's what you need to do so it doesn't bid

shakeyourbrakes

iTrader: (4)

go to autozone... put 40 dollars down and get it back when you return it

byez

How can you tell if they are not retracting properly? I recently did a brake job and now I am a bit worried.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

They will get hot when you drive Likely turn blue......

If you have access to an IR temp gun..check the temps..they should be the same or lower than the fronts

RA-Eight

iTrader: (6)

This kit will definitely do the trick. Free rental at your local Auto Zone.

mmw

Thanks everyone - indeed it was a piece of cake with the right tool (and opening the bleeder valve). Amazing how much time the right tool saves vs. fighting with something using what may be in the tool box....

Thanks again

fischer99

noob here. thanks for the thread. this came in handy. My right rear piston was problematic, but the good info here helped me get the job done..Thanks

Guy Hollywood

I used the tool from autozone to push my driver's side rear piston back in. It seems to be all the way in, but I'm not sure because it is not completely flush with the caliper. Should it be? Also, there is a hole in the boot. Would this cause a creaking noise that I'm hearing when I apply my brakes? It seems like when I apply the brakes I hear a creaking sound every time the wheels go around. Any ideas?

Guy Hollywood

*Bump*

Anyone?

Also, how much should it run for an entire driver's side, rear caliper?

justjim

The hole in the dust boot shouldn't cause a noise, it will allow dust to get on the piston which may shorten its life, its not an emergency though. If the piston retracted with the tool OK, and you can get a new set of pads in there, its probably all the way in. The creaking may have been the wear indicators rubbing on the rotor, check them and see if they were , or were close to, contacting the rotor.

Guy Hollywood

Thanks for the reply, Jim. All 4 of my pads are fairly new and still have plenty of life left. I used the caliper tool because it seemed as though the caliper piston was seized which I thought may have been causing the noise. After pushing the piston back in, it is still making the noise when I brake. And now I am noticing it a little bit when not even applying the brakes. It is much louder when I apply the brakes, but still happens like I said before, whenever the tires go around. So I'm not sure if the piston may be stuck again? Was thinking about just buying a whole new caliper.

xun4gvn4everx

iTrader: (2)

What brake pads did you put on? And is it just coming from one wheel?

Guy Hollywood

I didn't change the pads so I'm actually not sure what pads they are. They were on the car when I purchased it last May. And I'm not positive if it is just coming from one wheel, but it sounds like it.

My brakes still work fine, but it's just really annoying and embarassing when pulling up anywhere in a nice car, and then I hit the brakes and it sounds like ****.

ZumnRx8

Ummmm... I have a DIY Rear Brake Pads.... You could of just looked at that.....