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Alright, got it in and tried starting it for the first time today. Tried about ten times to get it to stay started but when I go to crank it, it will turn over and start no problem, it idles up a little as it should and then when it starts idling down where it should be to stay running it just dies...I'm thinking its my broke omp sensor but not positive. It all happens in about 3 and a half seconds before it dies out. What you guys think? Ive tried moving the sensor around in different positions then cranking it but doesn't seem to help any.
I actually looked up and read about 15 other threads on the nvram reset and went out there and tried it and nothing changed. So I looked around at plugs and everything and noticed I forgot to plug in one plug over on the passenger side of the engine, not really sure what its called but it was plugged into the bottom of this thing . So I plugged it up reset the nvram a few more times pulled my clutch pedal back up from the floor (haven't bled it yet so it stays stuck to the floor for now) and it started and stayed running. Temp gauge got up to half way in about 3 mins. Got a lot of smoke coming from the engine but I assume that's just factory oil burning off. I still got a lot to tighten up and put back on but at least it's running. More then likely will have a problem with that omp sensor but I guess I wont really know until I drive it.
Thats the air pump it'll throw a cel but wont affect starting or running. The omp will not affect starting at all. It will put you into low power limp mode. Normally it does not throw a cel. The easiest way to identify limp mode is throw it in neutral and rev.
It'll normally rev well when you first start it them seconds later it will go to limp mode and not rev well.
http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz127/ThatDudeStreet/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20150215_172116763_zpstmaqc4kg.mp4
I read that I shouldn't go above 4000rpm for a while to let it break in but Ive also read that it doesn't really matter. So I don't know, I guess I'll go with that just to be safe and already did a little premixing. Seems like everyone just kind of has there own belief in what they should do with a new engine and no one theory is exactly the same as another. I went with some 10w30 conventional oil for now then not sure what I should go with after the 500 mile mark.
Break in is over thought in my opinion, just drive it like normal and don't abuse it and you will be fine. I just changed the oil at 500 miles, 1000 miles, and 1500 miles and then drove it like normal (hard). I also recommend using a synthetic diesel oil like a Rotella T6 5W-40, diesel oils have a lot more anti wear additives than normal oil.
I forgot to plug in one plug over on the passenger side of the engine, not really sure what its called but it was plugged into the bottom of this thing
Was the plug for a silver box with fins on it? That's the fuel pump resistor and it will definitely cause the symptoms you described.
Was the plug for a silver box with fins on it? That's the fuel pump resistor and it will definitely cause the symptoms you described.
Actually yes that's exactly what it was, its mounted up under that air pump on a bracket. So far I have put 350 miles on it and its been doing good. Had a few little water leaks to start with but replaced some of the radiator hoses and fixed that. I super glued the omp sensor together and stuck it on there and moved it around until it would go through the rpms as it should so I knew was still good then I removed it and jb welded it so hopefully I wont have anymore problems out of that.
Ignore the poorly made battery cover, car didnt have one when I bought it so I still need to find one.
Break in is over thought in my opinion, just drive it like normal and don't abuse it and you will be fine. I just changed the oil at 500 miles, 1000 miles, and 1500 miles and then drove it like normal (hard). I also recommend using a synthetic diesel oil like a Rotella T6 5W-40, diesel oils have a lot more anti wear additives than normal oil.
I feel like coolant change intervals should be just as critical in break in of Mazda remans.
From what I've read most Remans fail because excess sealant gets chunked up over time in the cooling system causing cooling system failures leading to dead engines.
9k, wasn't that a failure cause on one of your Remans?
OP, I'd prob flush the coolant along with those oil change interval for break in, might be a bit overkill but cant hurt. Also +1 for Rotella T6.
Yeah I don't where you read that. Mine did die from a faulty coolant seal but I wouldn't say that is a common failure point. And coolant had nothing to do with it, mine had been changed twice in the 30,000 miles or so that the engine lasted. My failure was caught in an sample, I get my oil tested every few changes. So it didn't actually fail, but it was on its way.
I think installing a fresh reman, without insuring your cooling system is working properly is a bad idea though. Most reman installs done at the dealer are just that, they swap the engine in, they could care less about addressing any other things that should be changed, cleaned, etc.
Yeah I don't where you read that. Mine did die from a faulty coolant seal but I wouldn't say that is a common failure point. And coolant had nothing to do with it, mine had been changed twice in the 30,000 miles or so that the engine lasted. My failure was caught in an sample, I get my oil tested every few changes. So it didn't actually fail, but it was on its way.
Hmm must've been someone else's build I've mistaken. But I def read it more than a few places on the forums that it's a failure mode of remans.
Also know someone who it's happened to on a reman with less than 60k on it.
Still suggest that coolant be flushed with oil changes during break in. Just my own person paranoia kicking in.
Flushing your coolant won't make up for poopy parts in a poor rebuild, just a sayin' ....
This was the Mazda Motorsports rotary race engine break-in recommendation from back in the late-90's, it's either built right or not, excessive 9k-babying procedures & flushes won't really make any difference; no pistons, valvetrain, etc. ...
When breaking in any engine (race or stock), use a low ash content, mineral- based racing oil (20 w or 30 w). After the break-in period, change to a mineral or synthetic racing oil (30 w or 40 w).
Using a dynamometer for engine break-in is preferred. If you do not have access to a “Dyno,” use the mileage break-in figures on the next page. The engine should first be run at idle for 30-45 minutes. During this time, be sure to check for leaks and keep an eye on the gauges. Ideally, for the first 100 miles (depending on use of new or used bearings), avoid operating the engine above 5000 rpm or under heavy load.
From 100-200 miles, gradually increase rpm, but never allow the engine to approach red line. Beyond 200 miles we recommend only short bursts of power approaching red line for 100 miles. At this point, change the break-in engine oil. The engine break-in period is now complete.
Alright cars been doing good, has about 750 miles on it. Now a few days ago it went into limp mode and i figured it was my omp sensor so i took it off and took it back apart and some little brush looking things fell out of the sensor so I bought another one on ebay for $200 now I just tried it and its still in limp mode...moved it around and tried it in multiple positions. Anyone got any ideas? I am going to search a few threads and see what I find but if anyone has any ideas please feel free to share.
Edit: can the omp itself go bad? from what i have read it seems theres a motor in it turning the flat rod that turns the sensor. The sensor I bought came with the whole omp so maybe I should try changing it all out?
Last edited by KaLiKoStreet; 03-20-2015 at 02:57 PM.
Nvm guys I fixed it. I went ahead and changed the whole omp and sensor and it fixed it. Guess the motor in the omp went bad so I guess I didnt waist $200 after all. Wonder why all of a sudden it just went out like that...Can the sensor being in the wrong position cause the motor to die more suddenly?
Started having some hesitation at high rpms the other day so went and checked my ssv and it moved easily and my plugs, coils, and wires are new so took my cat off and found a bunch of broken pieces in it. Broke the rest out and hollowed it out, did the non fouler trick with the o2 sensor to keep my cel off, well see how that goes...It did stop the hesitation though so far, was getting to about 7000 rpms and would slowly keep moving up almost like it wasnt getting air until it hit about 8500 and would get like a boost back to normal. Guess the exhaust just couldnt get past the broken cat pieces. Also picked up some lowering springs, seems my front end sits a little higher then the rear so Im going to put these on and see how it looks. May have to change the rear shocks.
Gutting out the cat seemed to work for a little while until the other day it started doing it again after the car got really hot. Took the ssv out and cleaned it really good and removed the spark plugs and cleaned them. It seems to be gone again for now but I haven't driven the same long distance as last time to make it start again either.... Seems like all my vaccum lines are fine and working. Not really sure what else it could be after doing everything I already have. Hopefully it doesn't happen again after all that ssv was black and gummy when I took it out, looks new now. Maybe a piece of my cat got pushed to my muffler and is blocking flow there? Or maybe weak fuel pump after it gets so hot?
Started having some hesitation at high rpms the other day so went and checked my ssv and it moved easily and my plugs, coils, and wires are new so took my cat off and found a bunch of broken pieces in it. Broke the rest out and hollowed it out, did the non fouler trick with the o2 sensor to keep my cel off, well see how that goes...It did stop the hesitation though so far, was getting to about 7000 rpms and would slowly keep moving up almost like it wasnt getting air until it hit about 8500 and would get like a boost back to normal. Guess the exhaust just couldnt get past the broken cat pieces. Also picked up some lowering springs, seems my front end sits a little higher then the rear so Im going to put these on and see how it looks. May have to change the rear shocks.
What was the non fouler trick you used for the 02 sensor?
You can get them from advanced auto etc... In the "help" section of misc.parts there is gonna be a pack of two silver cylinders that say non spark plug foulers on the pack. There's a few threads on it around here somewhere...but you get the 2 pack of 18mm and you drill the little hole out of one so your o2 sensor will slide into it and you screw the other one onto the bottom of it and screw it all back into ur cat. Suppose to work as after u gut ur cat there's too much exhaust hitting that second o2 so u buy the non foulers to move the o2 sensor further away from the cat making for less exhaust to hit it. Worked for me but I've seen some say it didn't for them and some just gutted the cat and did nothing else and never had a cel. Search around for it I found a lot when I was looking for a way to do it
02-15-2015, 03:46 PM
obviously so ...
