DIY: Spark Plug Change.
#126
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
I used this DIY today to change my plugs wires and coils.
I was able to access all 4 spark plugs from the wheel well with the wheel removed. I used the bsm polish coils and OEM ngk plugs/wires.
after changing out all three I noticed smoother idle and more responsive power in the band.
Question though... is it normal to have that same oil/water froth found on the dipstick on the plugs? There was a small amount on a couple plugs.
I was able to access all 4 spark plugs from the wheel well with the wheel removed. I used the bsm polish coils and OEM ngk plugs/wires.
after changing out all three I noticed smoother idle and more responsive power in the band.
Question though... is it normal to have that same oil/water froth found on the dipstick on the plugs? There was a small amount on a couple plugs.
Second, Water is not normal at all. Plugs should be dry and caked with burnt carbon. should be brown/blackish. some oil residue can be found occasionally.
#127
Sorry I meant four... and 2 were dry like you said... two had oil on them but the oil was frothy. I understand it could be condensation mixing with oil as I did start the car for about 30sec to move it prior to the change.
#128
I did this a couple of days ago, and I must say...night and day difference in performance as well as gas mileage.. Thanks for the write up and all the input fellas, it was simple to follow. Cheers
#130
40th AE #815
Join Date: Feb 2011
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I bought a set the other day from Advanced Auto Parts, still need to find time to do it though...
BTW, use BIG30 as a coupon code while checking out on advancedautoparts.com to get $30 off a set of 4. $12.5 each, what a deal.
BTW, use BIG30 as a coupon code while checking out on advancedautoparts.com to get $30 off a set of 4. $12.5 each, what a deal.
#132
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Virginia
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Just FYI, I used code VISA ($50 off orders >$150) online at advanced auto and got the intermotor coils and ngk plugs for ~$153 with free shipping. Then another $30 on amazon for the wires. Got here in 2 days. Just trying to pass along some savings.
#133
Advanced Auto, decent deal but be advised, the $30 discount ends 25MAY. To receive the additional $50 coupon, your purchase must be $100 (excluding the discount) and elect to receive emails. If you choose not to receive emails you will not get the coupon which is only good for 1 month 6JUN-6JUL.
#135
Thanks to this DIY I saved over $300! My dealership in KS was going to charge $398 to change the spark plugs in my 2006. I ordered the NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug 2(RE9B-T) 2(RE7C-L) for $20 x 4 and ordered the Magnetic Spark Plug Socket - 13/16 inch for $15 and the anti-seize tube. Total of $100 with a $20 discount at Advanced Auto so the whole thing came to $83.
My husband just changed the plugs (it has 40k miles) and I am hoping to see better gas mileage as I have only been getting about 16.5! However, I was hoping it would help with the slow crank when I start it, but that's still the same . After all I have read, I am thinking I may have a compression issue.
My husband just changed the plugs (it has 40k miles) and I am hoping to see better gas mileage as I have only been getting about 16.5! However, I was hoping it would help with the slow crank when I start it, but that's still the same . After all I have read, I am thinking I may have a compression issue.
#137
Registered User
Just finished changing out my plugs. Was a piece of cake! Thanks for putting all of this together, it was really nice knowing exactly what I would need before getting started.
#138
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2 questions from a Novice
Many thanks to the OP, and those who have contributed to this thread. I would not try it without the guidance.
I will be trying this for the first time tomorrow. I have 2 questions:
1) I have the correct size spark plug socket, but it's not magnetic. How critical is it that the socket be magnetic? Since I'm not reaching downward to install the plugs (the pictures make it look more like a horizontal reach) is this really an issue?
2) I saw on NGK's site today that they recommend that you *dont* use anti-seize on the plugs. Something about people being misled into over-tightening because of the anti-seize, and that when their spark plugs have silver/metallic looking threads, they are already treated with something. Here is a link to their PDF about this. In light of this, should I really use the anti-seize?
I will be trying this for the first time tomorrow. I have 2 questions:
1) I have the correct size spark plug socket, but it's not magnetic. How critical is it that the socket be magnetic? Since I'm not reaching downward to install the plugs (the pictures make it look more like a horizontal reach) is this really an issue?
2) I saw on NGK's site today that they recommend that you *dont* use anti-seize on the plugs. Something about people being misled into over-tightening because of the anti-seize, and that when their spark plugs have silver/metallic looking threads, they are already treated with something. Here is a link to their PDF about this. In light of this, should I really use the anti-seize?
#139
Charles Bundy
iTrader: (5)
It does not have to be magnetic, however, most spark plug sockets have a rubber ring inside that holds onto the tail of the spark plug for removal and installation. It is true, from factory, that the NGK Spark Plug's threads are applied with a small amout of anti-seize, but what harm would it do if you apply a small amout of it? I don't think any, it will only make it easier for you to remove the plugs next time.
Last edited by Grace_Excel; 09-07-2012 at 12:48 AM.
#140
Great DIY - thanks for all the helpful tips.
Changed plugs today at around 27,500 miles. Started noticing some idling issues in the last few weeks, but otherwise car was performing well and no changes in gas mileage. Plugs didn't look too bad considering the mileage, however, the feel of the car after putting in the new plugs is significantly better. Idling and revs are super smooth now. Probably change coils and wires later this year, but right now no indication for the need.
Changed plugs today at around 27,500 miles. Started noticing some idling issues in the last few weeks, but otherwise car was performing well and no changes in gas mileage. Plugs didn't look too bad considering the mileage, however, the feel of the car after putting in the new plugs is significantly better. Idling and revs are super smooth now. Probably change coils and wires later this year, but right now no indication for the need.
Last edited by atomicode; 09-08-2012 at 02:23 PM.
#143
i pulled my plugs yest all four were black the two top ones were filled with oil and smelled like gas i sprayed some staring fluid and it started but died after 2 3 second couldnt get it to start after that need help!!!!! it is due for a spark plug wire coil change its at 89k they were changed at around 47k any help????
#145
Registered
Just changed plugs and wires, car started fine and warned up, shut it off waiting 15 minutes went to restart it and idle is all crazy and car will now just stall no matter what, any ideas? I'm sitting here right now trying to fix this.
#147
Registered
I am pretty sure all the spark plugs went into the correct spots and all the wires in the right order. Is it normal for the idle to bug out like that after a plug and wire change? Or should I have reset the ECU right off the bat after the new plugs and wires were on? A few months ago I successfully did a ignition coil change which went great and car ran better afterwards just FYI.
Any help would be appreciated.
#148
Registered
Well you said you already reset everything anyway since you had the battery cable off.
The leads can technically be used on any of the spots but the length they are is determined by what spot they should be going on. Do you have the wires like the attached picture?
It is pretty easy to get the spark plugs in the right spot because there are big letters cast into the block. You can also just remember it is Trailing = Top and Leading = Lower.
The leads can technically be used on any of the spots but the length they are is determined by what spot they should be going on. Do you have the wires like the attached picture?
It is pretty easy to get the spark plugs in the right spot because there are big letters cast into the block. You can also just remember it is Trailing = Top and Leading = Lower.
#149
Registered
Just read a post about there being no difference in the wires themselves just as long as each wire coming off of the ignition coils are going to the correct spark plug. So please disregard that from my previous post. Another question though, worst case if a couple plugs were put in the wrong spot, like a trailing was put into a leading, what would be the result of that? Would the car even run?
#150
Registered
Well you said you already reset everything anyway since you had the battery cable off.
The leads can technically be used on any of the spots but the length they are is determined by what spot they should be going on. Do you have the wires like the attached picture?
It is pretty easy to get the spark plugs in the right spot because there are big letters cast into the block. You can also just remember it is Trailing = Top and Leading = Lower.
The leads can technically be used on any of the spots but the length they are is determined by what spot they should be going on. Do you have the wires like the attached picture?
It is pretty easy to get the spark plugs in the right spot because there are big letters cast into the block. You can also just remember it is Trailing = Top and Leading = Lower.