DIY: No Heat? Repair the Heater Control
12-26-2013, 04:01 PM
#477
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got a quick question, didn't really have the patience to look through 20 pages of replies so I am sorry if it has already been asked. But any tips on getting the 3 connectors behind the radio? Attempted today and get up to the 3 white connectors in the back but couldn't reach nor could I figure out which way to unplug the top on. Thanks in advance.
12-27-2013, 04:38 PM
#479
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Which one is the display cable? I just attempted the fix myself and when I put everyhting back together, except the ashtray, I had no display. When I started the car there was no "Mazda RX8" thing and no lights like normal. I then turned on the heater and i had it on for about a minute and no hot air yet, then again the engine was cold still so that's probably what it was. But I can not test if the solder job I did worked because I have no display. I then disconnected the radio again and reconnected and now my hazards don't work where previously they did. Any suggestions?
12-27-2013, 04:40 PM
#480
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-17-2014, 05:34 PM
#485
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok I have a question how can I do the heat/cold **** test if I don't have a stock radio. I have a metra kit with a double din and right now I am getting just heat. Some times I'll get some cold air but mostly just heat. I have ckeck all my connections and they are good.
02-17-2014, 08:28 PM
#486
Dark Moderator
iTrader: (18)
ok well the concept might just be the same. Power Seek. Simple as that. Your heat. Is it only on one side of the car? i.e. passenger, drivers side. Also if you cannot do the test, just remove the heater control ***** it's really not that difficult and look. Once you have it all disasembled on the board itself you will see three solder points in a row. That is where it usually cracks due to it being Shi**Y cold solder. Anyway. remove old solder, clean, re solder. If that dont work, Flush your heater core.
02-18-2014, 07:58 AM
#488
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok well the concept might just be the same. Power Seek. Simple as that. Your heat. Is it only on one side of the car? i.e. passenger, drivers side. Also if you cannot do the test, just remove the heater control ***** it's really not that difficult and look. Once you have it all disasembled on the board itself you will see three solder points in a row. That is where it usually cracks due to it being Shi**Y cold solder. Anyway. remove old solder, clean, re solder. If that dont work, Flush your heater core.
I did take apart the controls but the welds look good. They are pretty small so maybe I did not see the crack if it is crack thats why I want to do the test. Oh and it's heal in both sides. I want to make sure that it's either the controls or the metra box. Before I do anything.
02-18-2014, 08:01 AM
#489
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do these cars have a valve on one of the heater hose that close and opens. I know on hondas it has one on the engine bay and it's what controls the heat. Sometimes when the ***** or cable breaks we just did it manually in the valve itself
02-18-2014, 03:48 PM
#490
Dark Moderator
iTrader: (18)
Hlover1- usually it's not that easy to see if they are cracked. Take a closer look, wiggle them. Personally, i would remove the solder and redo it anyway since as we all know it IS destined to fail if it's cold solder.
03-02-2014, 05:21 PM
#492
New Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My heat decided to go in the middle of a snowy day with bitter cold. It sucked hard. I had to keep one hand warm at a time by turning on the seat heaters and sitting on them. This fix worked like a charm but those connecters were a PITA.
03-09-2014, 02:28 PM
#494
New Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Heat issue
So I did exactly what the write up said to do and now I get nothing but heat most of time and cold sometimes at random positions of the ****. Any idea what I could do now? Thanks
03-20-2014, 05:39 PM
#496
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sunderand, UK
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone done a uk spec heater board. The dials are soldered in place. I resoldered all accessible joints around the control ****. When turned you get 3-4 meg then 0.6ohm all the way around alternately. Same as the fan control that still works. I did manage to fix the bose changer while i was in there so not a total blow out exercise. Any ideas chaps. I hate buying new parts if its fixable!!
Cheers in advance.
Cheers in advance.
04-08-2014, 01:42 PM
#498
New Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Worked like a champ! Took longer to remove the focking connectors then it did to do everything else..... Amazing how much easier it is to put them back together than take them apart.... :-) Thanks for the write up!
04-13-2014, 10:00 PM
#500
Anyone done a uk spec heater board. The dials are soldered in place. I resoldered all accessible joints around the ****. When turned you get 3-4 meg then 0.6ohm all the way around alternately. Same as the fan control that still works. I did manage to fix the bose changer while i was in there so not a total blow out exercise. Any ideas chaps. I hate buying new parts if its fixable!!
Cheers in advance.
Cheers in advance.