Grungepup

iTrader: (2)

Did this on saturday.... sucks to say i didnt smoke out the neighborhood like i wanted to only had a baby puff of smoke

but it does have better idle and throttle response now, thanks for the insight was more helpful than the tsb, although i will suggest to others that using a pair of long nose needle pliers helps to remove the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor, just grip the very edge of the connector gently and pull, came off no problem.

Jeremeymt

I have new plugs, new wires, new coils and the dealership is saying i have ALOT of carbon buildup. Are they really able to tell how much carbon buildup you REALLY have? My car is hesitating quite a bit and trying to stall and has actually stalled twice lately. Will doing this engine cleaner really fix that problem? I have the cleaner i just need to get out there and do it but i work alot so i havent had alot of time. Which leads me to my next concern. I am afraid when i do this cleaning procedure that my car might not start back up? I have read some people have had this problem? Anyways i did find the sensor i need to unplug and i was able to reach it from the side and top i guess cuz i have pretty small arms and hands.

2005
just hit 60k miles
ALWAYS use premium fuel

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Doesnt matter how Mazda says "Premium Fuel recommended", Premium fuel will always burn slower, so you will get carbon easier. at least for this engine. I mean yeah Carbon deposit has been a problem with Rotary engines since day 1, but the older engine never get as much carbon as 13B-MSP. in the older Manual Mazda actually recommend 87 and say that using higher grade will build carbon up more often. For 13B-MSP, they have no choice, at 10:1, if they dont use it, it will knock easily especially when its hot.

Just run your engine hard and that will get rid of some of the crap in there.

ANYWAY, Hmm there is almost no way to tell if your engine is carbon up from the outside, they can probably tell how well your engine runs by pulling the plugs out but not 100% sure.

You can decarb it yourself, it doesnt hurt to do it once in a long while.

Jeremeymt

Well when my car stalled twice and i took it in they ran diagnostics. They said i needed plugs...wires...coils...and engine zoom zoom cleaning. Well of course they wanted insane amount of money for all this so i researched how to do it myself. I changed the plugs and wires and coils figuring SURELY this would fix the problem which it did until today. Granted its been HOT here in TN and this is when the problem usually happens. So mazda says basically my engine is "choking" itself out and stallling cuz of carbon build up and it needs the zoom zoom cleaning which they wanted $275 for!! I quickly realized i could buy the same stuff for way cheaper and thanks to this DIY save alot of money. I just wonder if this will really stop the car from stalling though is my concern?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Its really hard to say. Most dealership has zero clues about how rotary engine works and will just throw random excuse(s) at you, and usually these excuse(s) will cost you a **** loads of money.

but I gotta tell you that if it stalls only hot, you have a really high chance of having a bad engine.

I mean for 20 something bux you can try to decarb it yourself. one cleaner can clean your engine twice, but before cleaning I suggest you to put some premix into your tank first. Read first page.

if it still stalls. hmm, time to ask them to run compression test(if they know how to do it PROPERLY and knows how to read the compression charts correctly)

Symbioticgenius

Helped a friend do the Deflooding Washer Fluid Method Earlier today. Quite Similar, and we got the car started.

I notice two main differences (more, but lets discuss two).
1. We didn't pull any fuses or sensors etc. Obviously fuel would be added to the engine. Couldn't you also do that for decarbing?

2. How effective is Washer Fluid at decarbing an engine? Compare it to Zoom Zoom, for reference.

3. Could doing the Washer Fluid method ever so often have a similar effect?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I do the washer fluid trick too for deflooding, but it shouldn't be a substitute for an engine cleaner like SeaFoam or Mazda's ZoomZoom cleaner.
And you really should disconnect the e-shaft sensor.
Hint: Its easier to disconnect from under the car.

Symbioticgenius

that thread didnt mention it, and I just looked at this one. it worked anyway. in fact it says to press accelerator etc. as per Mazda.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Are you referring to the deflood or the decarbon?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

My fault... both were mentioned and I should have clarified what I was talking about.
The e-shaft disconnect is for the decarb, holding the accelerator pedal is for the deflood.

Symbioticgenius

why?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

why what?

Symbioticgenius

why must the sensor be pulled for decarb? what is its affect, what adverse affects might occur otherwise etc.

edit" i know it stops fuel from entering the chamber but i dont fully understand why thats important.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

With a decarb you don't want the engine to start, so you disconnect the e-shaft sensor.
The cleaner is sprayed into each maintenance port for 10 sec why cranking the engine (which is why you don't want the engine to start).
After a few minutes you reconnect the sensor and start the car (and enjoy the smoke show)

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I forgot what thread I was in... just read the first few post that describe the decarb method.

Symbioticgenius

i am an idiot. after re reading the procedure again for the 12th time. i realize this crap has to sit for an hour, aka no engine starty...

Note to self. no forum hopping at 4:55 Am... insomnia sucks

edit: thanks for being patient with me lol. I think I'll stay off forums when im tired from now on

ASH8

Actually, If I can chime in here about De Carbon-ing Methods..

I am leaning very much to the "Steam Clean Method" designed by a well known and very knowledgeable long time member.

His method is to use about a gallon of cold clean tap water, a hot running engine kept at 2000 RPM with the water being vacuumed into the inlet.

YES, the car runs like CRAP, but after all the water is used you take the car for a flogging and then she will PURRR...

Then change your oil and filter.

I have not done this method, but I really like ALL the principals as steam will remove Carbon in very small particles out the exhaust.

IMO, I think it could be superior to Seafoam or any petroleum base fluids.

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Pineapple Racing in Portland, OR. has been doing this for years. Swears by it.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Yea mine stalled once in a rain storm out here in cali. Every now and again she almost dies at a light (drops to 500 then back up again).

I am going to do a decarb but I fear the end of my long lived engine is in sight. So sad...

Symbioticgenius

So ASH. How you gonna Vacuum into the Engine in an 09. I believe they are missing those inlets, or have you found some other holes to use

ASH8

Yes, this is a worry, but, I think I should be able to find a Vacuum line "somewhere" after the TB...I hope.....I really like this method of cleaning.

I will probably perform it at 12 months use (this November , and our Summer).

Ash

Jeremeymt

I bet they did this on purpose so as to somehow get you to do it at the dealer! Even though they "claim" the 09s wont build up as much carbon i dont buy it. I am having a time with my car right now and its hesitation and stalling BUT tonight is when i finally get a chance to do this engine cleaner treatment! We will see what happens.

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

ASH8, if we have (2) nipples on the Renesis v1, how should we split the water flow? Do one rotor at a time is my guess.

ASH8

Make up a large "T" piece or "Y" vacuum hose piece, make sure the two to the nipples are of equal length, then a longer "tail" into the water supply.

Jeremeymt

Ok if anyone is awake im out here trying to do this...i can reach the ESP sensor but is there a certain way to get it come loose? Like do u just pull on it? Its being a major pain in my butt!