DIY: Battery relocation to trunk
05-05-2009, 02:46 PM
#26
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stump Creek, PA
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Picture 24
The very bottom circle is the support for the battery box, one on both sides of the box and they get screwed down.
After the tie downs are screwed down you can put the battery in the box. I also used double sided industrial velcro on the bottom of the battery to keep it from doing any moving from side to side, even though it's already a tight fit.
Put the terminals on the lines and connect the ground wire to the battery.
Hook the last 100 amp fuse holder and put the fuse in.
The very bottom circle is the support for the battery box, one on both sides of the box and they get screwed down.
After the tie downs are screwed down you can put the battery in the box. I also used double sided industrial velcro on the bottom of the battery to keep it from doing any moving from side to side, even though it's already a tight fit.
Put the terminals on the lines and connect the ground wire to the battery.
Hook the last 100 amp fuse holder and put the fuse in.
05-05-2009, 02:53 PM
#28
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stump Creek, PA
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Picture 26
Put the cover on and your good to go.
I've had this setup for some time now and no problems with anything. This is also a good diy for an amp.
Parts you need
18-21 ft of 2ga wire
Three screwed ground connectors
Zip ties of your color you like
2 - 100 amp fuses and holders
1 - 60 amp fuse and holder
Battery tie down box
Total price was around $75.00
If I missed anything please let me know.
Put the cover on and your good to go.
I've had this setup for some time now and no problems with anything. This is also a good diy for an amp.
Parts you need
18-21 ft of 2ga wire
Three screwed ground connectors
Zip ties of your color you like
2 - 100 amp fuses and holders
1 - 60 amp fuse and holder
Battery tie down box
Total price was around $75.00
If I missed anything please let me know.
05-05-2009, 03:45 PM
#29
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, California
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
I'm concerned about the strength of the tie-down method you used. Consider that in the event of a collision, that battery may generate several thousands pounds of force! That concentrated force in such a small package, could possibly break through the bulkhead and be lethal. It would be a formidable projectile. I'm not sure the anchors you used are up to the task. The thin plastic box doesn't inspire too much confidence either. If I were to relocate I'd want a strong metal box or metal brackets, and it would need to be held down with some serious hardware -- machine-grade bolts, nuts, and large washers to spread the load. A few little screws is taking a big chance, imo.
http://www.ohioinsuranceadvisors.com...=1114437902702
http://www.ohioinsuranceadvisors.com...=1114437902702
Last edited by Nubo; 05-05-2009 at 03:51 PM.
05-05-2009, 03:59 PM
#30
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, California
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Several possible valid reasons
-free up space under the hood for modifications
-weight distribution
-allow use of a larger than stock battery (for audio, etc)
- remove battery from the heat environment, for longevity.
Cons:
- longer than normal cable run (make up for it with thick cable)
- semi-enclosed environment (use an AGM battery to avoid hydrogen gas buildup, better yet use an AGM *and* provide vent tubes.
- Need to take great care to ensure that the heavy battery does not become a lethal projectile in the event of a head-on collision.
- additional run of high-amperage conductor through the passenger compartment can add fire risk.
-free up space under the hood for modifications
-weight distribution
-allow use of a larger than stock battery (for audio, etc)
- remove battery from the heat environment, for longevity.
Cons:
- longer than normal cable run (make up for it with thick cable)
- semi-enclosed environment (use an AGM battery to avoid hydrogen gas buildup, better yet use an AGM *and* provide vent tubes.
- Need to take great care to ensure that the heavy battery does not become a lethal projectile in the event of a head-on collision.
- additional run of high-amperage conductor through the passenger compartment can add fire risk.
05-05-2009, 04:07 PM
#31
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stump Creek, PA
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I understand where your coming from. The box is accually a marine box for boats so it should be pretty safe, but I will be getting a nice metal bracket from lowes to secure it more, I already have extra screws in the box itself also.
Me and my one friend after it was in, we both got in the trunk and both tugged like hell and it didn't budge. I will take some more pictures when I get the main bracket I want. If those plastic clips did break the battery will still be enclosed in the box.
You don't have to buy those kinda boxes anyway, I just went with it cause it was there and I can make the extra's of what I need, just haven't got around to it.
Me and my one friend after it was in, we both got in the trunk and both tugged like hell and it didn't budge. I will take some more pictures when I get the main bracket I want. If those plastic clips did break the battery will still be enclosed in the box.
You don't have to buy those kinda boxes anyway, I just went with it cause it was there and I can make the extra's of what I need, just haven't got around to it.
Last edited by syntheticdarkness; 05-05-2009 at 04:11 PM.
05-06-2009, 02:48 PM
#32
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stump Creek, PA
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I've got the material and it is finally installed.
1/4" stainless bolts
1/4" stainless washers
1/4" stainless lock nuts
And a nice thick piece of aluminum
1/4" stainless bolts
1/4" stainless washers
1/4" stainless lock nuts
And a nice thick piece of aluminum
05-08-2009, 09:49 AM
#34
Carbonormous
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 882
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you bolt it through the floor? When you were doing this DIY that's the most important thing I was looking for. As Nubo said, sheet metal screws won't cut it. High grade bolts, nuts and BIG washers FTW. Also, as a side note, I would have mounted it as close the rear seats as possible: weight more centered and if it breaks loose it won't have time/space to get up to speed coming toward the cabin.
05-08-2009, 03:27 PM
#35
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stump Creek, PA
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, after he said that it got me thinking, and as you can see in the pictures it's bolted through the floor with the material I have shown in the new pictures on both ends of the bracket and also inside the box.
I like where it's at, but that's all in everyone's own opinion I guess, not to far away from the center, but pretty close, but has the nice dip it sits in to help support it also, plus I can fit a full size spare in the trunk with it down in the dip as to when I had it positioned it behind the seats.
I do want to thank nubo for all that also. Now I feel a lot safer, since I thought basically the same thing about the screws.
One more note on if it would break lose now, that would be one horrible accident and sadly if that were to happen I don't think we would make it, but you never know.
I like where it's at, but that's all in everyone's own opinion I guess, not to far away from the center, but pretty close, but has the nice dip it sits in to help support it also, plus I can fit a full size spare in the trunk with it down in the dip as to when I had it positioned it behind the seats.
I do want to thank nubo for all that also. Now I feel a lot safer, since I thought basically the same thing about the screws.
One more note on if it would break lose now, that would be one horrible accident and sadly if that were to happen I don't think we would make it, but you never know.
05-09-2009, 09:31 AM
#37
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stump Creek, PA
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you mean for an amp, or hooking another battery up in series, I'm a little confused. If your doing power for an amp you just need to run a power line to the trunk, and find a ground for the amp in the trunk.
05-09-2009, 11:40 AM
#38
RotorHeads Unite!
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
naw, i mean take the battery wires off the battery post and splice fat cables to the battery wires (positive and negative) and run them to the trunk, then connect the wires to the battery
05-09-2009, 02:17 PM
#39
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stump Creek, PA
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's basically what I did, but you don't have to run the negative to the trunk. You just take the ground wires up front and ground them, then ground the battery in the trunk.
05-10-2009, 11:47 AM
#41
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stump Creek, PA
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a little of both, plus it makes it easier to do anything in the engine now also. If I can't get a turbo or supercharger then it's wide open, plus I think it looks better that way.
05-10-2009, 11:51 AM
#42
oh yeah!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nice i can imagine all the space that was opened up doing that lol i couldnt do that do to my patience level and i use my trunk to carry all my books and random **** lol
05-14-2009, 07:23 AM
#45
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stump Creek, PA
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I went with 2 so I would go with 2 gauge RRNoob so you don't have to much resistance.
I know the car is supposed to be a 50/50, but it changed up the steering just a we bit for the better, and it also put weight above the back tires for better grip, especially in winter also. I really don't know though if 50lbs is going to change it that much.
I know the car is supposed to be a 50/50, but it changed up the steering just a we bit for the better, and it also put weight above the back tires for better grip, especially in winter also. I really don't know though if 50lbs is going to change it that much.
The following users liked this post:
04Green (07-04-2019)
06-10-2009, 05:07 PM
#47
I'm concerned about the strength of the tie-down method you used. Consider that in the event of a collision, that battery may generate several thousands pounds of force! That concentrated force in such a small package, could possibly break through the bulkhead and be lethal. It would be a formidable projectile. I'm not sure the anchors you used are up to the task. The thin plastic box doesn't inspire too much confidence either. If I were to relocate I'd want a strong metal box or metal brackets, and it would need to be held down with some serious hardware -- machine-grade bolts, nuts, and large washers to spread the load. A few little screws is taking a big chance, imo.
http://www.ohioinsuranceadvisors.com...=1114437902702
http://www.ohioinsuranceadvisors.com...=1114437902702
And do you honestly think the factory location/tiedowns are any better ? you can easily snap the foot long 5mm thick bolts and hangars with something as easy as going into a ditch...
otherwise i see more pros than cons in relocating the battery , although i would put it somewhere more effective than right in the middle. i am sure its easy to jump you off if you break down, but makes a PITA to put anything in the trunk like luggage or something
