DIY-auto up and down windows
#52
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you can either choose to connect to the motor wires in the door, but they are momentary pulses of the positive type. also you can connect to the door lock trigger, located in the driver's door kick area, lt green in color, negative pulse. again, the pulse is a momentary pulse, and both lock and unlock are triggered through this wire.
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Originally Posted by lurch519
you can either choose to connect to the motor wires in the door, but they are momentary pulses of the positive type. also you can connect to the door lock trigger, located in the driver's door kick area, lt green in color, negative pulse. again, the pulse is a momentary pulse, and both lock and unlock are triggered through this wire.
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it may be possible, you would also need a pulse timer relay, but not only would it roll the windows up when you armed the alarm, it would also roll the windows up if the lock button was pressed,
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interesting. That would be awesome if one could roll up windows in proportion to holding down the lock button. I'll try it on my car once I get that auto-up unit and figure out which wires go where.
#56
:( traded in my 8
Thank you for this DIY. My wife has a mazdaspeed6 with auto up/down windows and for a while we only had her car (I shipped my 8 first when we moved to Germany) and I really got use to the auto up function that my 8 lacks.
Now I just have to collect up the parts I need.
Now I just have to collect up the parts I need.
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Awesome DIY Lurch!!! I think I'll do this at the same time as when I install my puddle lamps.
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Did anyone try to do this to factory remote yet? i would be really interested in this. In fact i was dating a girl with a crappy VW Golf and she had it from the factory.
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I hear you man. I want to be able to justify this add-on, and I think remote-closing the windows would be just the ticket to do so.
You know, as an aside, if someone could find the wire that is pulsed when you hit the lock button for the second time (to make the car chirp), that would be a great signal for the window-up command. The only problem I see is that the auto-window-up module probably won't have power after you open the door to get out. If anyone can figure out a way around this, then I think we'd be in business.
You know, as an aside, if someone could find the wire that is pulsed when you hit the lock button for the second time (to make the car chirp), that would be a great signal for the window-up command. The only problem I see is that the auto-window-up module probably won't have power after you open the door to get out. If anyone can figure out a way around this, then I think we'd be in business.
Last edited by zenmoused; 10-03-2006 at 01:49 PM.
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Originally Posted by zenmoused
I hear you man. I want to be able to justify this add-on, and I think remote-closing the windows would be just the ticket to do so.
You know, as an aside, if someone could find the wire that is pulsed when you hit the lock button for the second time (to make the car chirp), that would be a great signal for the window-up command. The only problem I see is that the auto-window-up module probably won't have power after you open the door to get out. If anyone can figure out a way around this, then I think we'd be in business.
You know, as an aside, if someone could find the wire that is pulsed when you hit the lock button for the second time (to make the car chirp), that would be a great signal for the window-up command. The only problem I see is that the auto-window-up module probably won't have power after you open the door to get out. If anyone can figure out a way around this, then I think we'd be in business.
as to constant power, please reference link below and text copied from my DIY
link
And here with the 2 t-taps for power and ground. To determine the power wire, use your multimeter set to DC volts, with one lead attached to a good ground, and the key turned to the on position. This circuit will only have 12 volts when the key is turned on, so if you desire to also use the module to allow control of the windows from an aftermarket alarm system, you must find a constant 12 volt source. Either you can run a wire into the vehicle through the door boot (it’s a royal pain in the ***)or you can tap the orange wire at the power amplifier in the door for the speaker (you can use either one).
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Ahh I get it now. Sorry to have you explain it again man, I'm a little dense I guess. Does this mean that if I were to tap the factory alarm wire, that there would be a chance of the window unit messing with/disarming the alarm system?
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no, not at all. at least i dont believe so.
what will happen, if you tap the factory alarm wire, is that when you arm the alarm, the factory alarm wire will pulse to ground for a split second, then when you disarm the factory alarm, the same wire will pulse again.
what will happen, if you tap the factory alarm wire, is that when you arm the alarm, the factory alarm wire will pulse to ground for a split second, then when you disarm the factory alarm, the same wire will pulse again.
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That is right but i have been doing some research here at work today (way too tired to do real work) and i found the TR-7 from Pac-audio. basically it is an IC controlled relay circuit that allows you to program it for a variety of functions. But the one i am most interested in is #15. This one allows for a user programmable number of pulses (+ or -) in 5 secs that will output constant voltage (+ or -) for a user defined time frame. This way i could hook this trigger up to say the door lock pulse to door lock motor and the auto window up to this device. That way when i hit the lock say 3 times, it would automatically roll the windows up.
http://www.pac-audio.com/products/pr...gger%20Modules
http://www.pac-audio.com/products/pr...gger%20Modules
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Originally Posted by lurch519
no, not at all. at least i dont believe so.
what will happen, if you tap the factory alarm wire, is that when you arm the alarm, the factory alarm wire will pulse to ground for a split second, then when you disarm the factory alarm, the same wire will pulse again.
what will happen, if you tap the factory alarm wire, is that when you arm the alarm, the factory alarm wire will pulse to ground for a split second, then when you disarm the factory alarm, the same wire will pulse again.
#71
Ok here is my idea...... Im a MECP installer and have delt with this module on several occasions.
Go to www.the12volt.com and click on the "Diagrams" tab.
Scroll all the way to the bottom of the page where the last box of links are.
In this box you will find how to convert a momentary pulse to a constant pulse.
This takes a single negative pulse and converts it to a constant +12 volts output. In this same box it will also tell you how to convert +12 volts to a ground. So simply put the two together and you get a momentary negative pulse which creates a constant negative pulse. Just connect the momentary input to your factory alarm arm (green wire with a red stripe located in the driver kick panel) to the input wire on the 530t and the rest is magic. When you arm the alarm the windows go up.
PS: I was going to do a diagram but the computer here at work is very limited. Sorry!
Go to www.the12volt.com and click on the "Diagrams" tab.
Scroll all the way to the bottom of the page where the last box of links are.
In this box you will find how to convert a momentary pulse to a constant pulse.
This takes a single negative pulse and converts it to a constant +12 volts output. In this same box it will also tell you how to convert +12 volts to a ground. So simply put the two together and you get a momentary negative pulse which creates a constant negative pulse. Just connect the momentary input to your factory alarm arm (green wire with a red stripe located in the driver kick panel) to the input wire on the 530t and the rest is magic. When you arm the alarm the windows go up.
PS: I was going to do a diagram but the computer here at work is very limited. Sorry!
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Actually the 530t doesn't work like this. The - when armed needs signal until the windows are all the way up. It is not a pulse. I checked this out when i did the install this afternoon. To make it work with just factory i used the PAC-audio TR-7. This device is a programmable trigger module. I set it up to take a double pulse input and output a steady signal for 5 secs. It has seperate wires for + and - inputs and outputs so it doesn't matter what type of signal you feed it or what it will output. So i used the Factory door lock pulse signal that goes to the door lock actuator. This is a Red/Blue wire in the connector on the lower left of the drivers door. I hooked this to the green (+ input) of the TR-7. I also hooked the TR-7 white (- output) to the orange (- when armed) of the 530t. The only other thing i did different was to use the orange wire on the Bose Amp for power since this is always on. It works like a charm. When you double tap the lock on the doors within 5 secs the windows go up.
I plan on getting another TR-7 and hooking this to the unlock signal (red wire one down from unlock). This one will be set up for triple signal and 5 sec out. So if i triple unlock the doors the windows go down.
I plan on getting another TR-7 and hooking this to the unlock signal (red wire one down from unlock). This one will be set up for triple signal and 5 sec out. So if i triple unlock the doors the windows go down.
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Anyone install a 530 or 529 for the sunroof yet? I got it all hooked up but something is wrong. When i open or close the module clicks on then right back off. So it opens all the way because of the factory one touch for the sunroof, but it only moves a little bit for each time you hit the close button.