Rock Chip.... Help
12-03-2004, 09:41 AM
#26
Rotor-Head
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Hey guys, I am applying my clear front end bra today, I will post pics tommorrow with DIY instructions.
I have done this on an Audi S4, (black) and it is amazing how it protects the paint. Do a search for my other thread, if there is any interest for others to have this, I have a connection that can get us a great deal.
Oh, and you can still wax the car like normal, the wax build up around the edges of the clear film can be rubbed away pretty easily.
I have done this on an Audi S4, (black) and it is amazing how it protects the paint. Do a search for my other thread, if there is any interest for others to have this, I have a connection that can get us a great deal.
Oh, and you can still wax the car like normal, the wax build up around the edges of the clear film can be rubbed away pretty easily.
12-03-2004, 10:52 AM
#27
Rangers Lead The Way!
I got a clear bra put on my RX-8 too. I is an absolute lifesaver. Mine was made by Armor Glove and put on at a local detailer/distrubuter. Cost me $350 installed for the full front bumper and rear bumper (the part right under the trunk lid so when you lean into the trunk you don't scratch the bumper). Best thing you can do for peace of mind concerning rock chips on the bumper
01-01-2005, 03:05 PM
#29
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I recently noticed that people "curb the shoulder" when they're racing cars they know they can't beat. When this happens they wind up kicking up all sorts of debris into the car that is coming up hard on them. I saw this happen three times already..luckily never to me. Who came up with this idea? Seems like for all "street racers" it is a high price to pay for your ego.
BTW: Yesterday I missed getting hit by a sword by about 5 feet on 287 in NJ. I'm not shitting you...that could have created quite the chip. Watch out for rocks and swords.
BTW: Yesterday I missed getting hit by a sword by about 5 feet on 287 in NJ. I'm not shitting you...that could have created quite the chip. Watch out for rocks and swords.
02-15-2005, 12:12 PM
#32
Registered User
I don't know if it is just the yellow touch up paint from Mazda, but it sucks.
I used it for a scratch on my roof and a rock chip on my fender. In both areas it turned white.
I shook up the paint very well, used a toothpick to put on the smallest amount I could which was still a good size drop. For the rock chip the blob filled the chip fairly well, but a month later it turned white in color.
The Mazda stuff is very hard to use. I have two bottles of the stuff and both dry extremely fast and becomes very stringy quickly. It is nearly impossible to put on a tiny dab because it will dry out before you can make it to the car's surface. I don't know if a thinner would help in the application process, but I don't really care. If the stuff is going to turn white in the long run, then I obviously don't want to use it.
I ordered a different brand from another company. I will let you know how it works
Don't forget for really small pits try rubbing compound first. It works really well.
-Mr. Wigggles
I used it for a scratch on my roof and a rock chip on my fender. In both areas it turned white.
I shook up the paint very well, used a toothpick to put on the smallest amount I could which was still a good size drop. For the rock chip the blob filled the chip fairly well, but a month later it turned white in color.
The Mazda stuff is very hard to use. I have two bottles of the stuff and both dry extremely fast and becomes very stringy quickly. It is nearly impossible to put on a tiny dab because it will dry out before you can make it to the car's surface. I don't know if a thinner would help in the application process, but I don't really care. If the stuff is going to turn white in the long run, then I obviously don't want to use it.
I ordered a different brand from another company. I will let you know how it works
Don't forget for really small pits try rubbing compound first. It works really well.
-Mr. Wigggles
02-25-2005, 11:33 PM
#34
She Always Beeps so Sweet
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use a toothpick...or a hat pin....it take more time....but it work's the best.
What more can an 8 love want, something that takes time, looks the best, and last!!
...like our 0-60 times
What more can an 8 love want, something that takes time, looks the best, and last!!
...like our 0-60 times
03-23-2005, 11:57 AM
#35
The Doctor is sedated....
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Well, ok then. Has any one tried using the Langka kit? And Lufa, how did your chip repair turn out? I know you have a TiGrey, have you noticed any discolorization? I have ordered the Langka kit, and will attempt it this weekend - we're supposed to get another layer of snow around these parts, so I'm not going anywhere
I'll post after I do the Langka deed...
I'll post after I do the Langka deed...
03-30-2005, 10:27 AM
#36
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Clay Bar?
Originally Posted by mqandil
Lufa
Use Langka to remove unwated touch up paint. It comes right up. As for fixing the chip. It is very simple.
1- Clean the area well
2- glue a 600 grid paper on top of the eraser of a pencil .
3- Rough up the bottom of the chip to allow paint to stick
4- Using a very tiny brush, the one you buy from art stores, or using a match fill the pit slowly. allow 15 minutes between applications, until you get the paint to raise above surrounding.
5- Allow paint to cure for several days, perhaps a week
6- Using a sanding block (grit 3000....It will not scratch you car finish), sand the raised paint area until it blends with the rest of the paint. Run your fingers over the chip, and keep sanding until you can not feel it.
7- At the point the area will look dull. Use 3M rubbing compound, and buff the area lightly. It will shine right up, and you will not be able to see the chip anymore unless you look really close.
8- For some reason if you do not like it, use Langka to remove the paint and start over. I assure you it is the best way to fix the chips. There is no risk of damaging your paint finish.
Good luck
Mark
Use Langka to remove unwated touch up paint. It comes right up. As for fixing the chip. It is very simple.
1- Clean the area well
2- glue a 600 grid paper on top of the eraser of a pencil .
3- Rough up the bottom of the chip to allow paint to stick
4- Using a very tiny brush, the one you buy from art stores, or using a match fill the pit slowly. allow 15 minutes between applications, until you get the paint to raise above surrounding.
5- Allow paint to cure for several days, perhaps a week
6- Using a sanding block (grit 3000....It will not scratch you car finish), sand the raised paint area until it blends with the rest of the paint. Run your fingers over the chip, and keep sanding until you can not feel it.
7- At the point the area will look dull. Use 3M rubbing compound, and buff the area lightly. It will shine right up, and you will not be able to see the chip anymore unless you look really close.
8- For some reason if you do not like it, use Langka to remove the paint and start over. I assure you it is the best way to fix the chips. There is no risk of damaging your paint finish.
Good luck
Mark
03-31-2005, 12:27 AM
#37
Rotary only since 1980
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Detailers use clay bars to *remove* the overspray. The overspray adhers to the clay better than the paint it is sitting on.
I dont think the clay bar contains enough abrasive to take off the top of the touch up paint. Wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper as described above will do it. Just be gentle and follow the steps outlined above. Good luck.
I dont think the clay bar contains enough abrasive to take off the top of the touch up paint. Wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper as described above will do it. Just be gentle and follow the steps outlined above. Good luck.
04-01-2005, 03:21 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by MrWigggles
I don't know if it is just the yellow touch up paint from Mazda, but it sucks.
I used it for a scratch on my roof and a rock chip on my fender. In both areas it turned white.
I shook up the paint very well, used a toothpick to put on the smallest amount I could which was still a good size drop. For the rock chip the blob filled the chip fairly well, but a month later it turned white in color.
The Mazda stuff is very hard to use. I have two bottles of the stuff and both dry extremely fast and becomes very stringy quickly. It is nearly impossible to put on a tiny dab because it will dry out before you can make it to the car's surface. I don't know if a thinner would help in the application process, but I don't really care. If the stuff is going to turn white in the long run, then I obviously don't want to use it.
I ordered a different brand from another company. I will let you know how it works
Don't forget for really small pits try rubbing compound first. It works really well.
-Mr. Wigggles
I used it for a scratch on my roof and a rock chip on my fender. In both areas it turned white.
I shook up the paint very well, used a toothpick to put on the smallest amount I could which was still a good size drop. For the rock chip the blob filled the chip fairly well, but a month later it turned white in color.
The Mazda stuff is very hard to use. I have two bottles of the stuff and both dry extremely fast and becomes very stringy quickly. It is nearly impossible to put on a tiny dab because it will dry out before you can make it to the car's surface. I don't know if a thinner would help in the application process, but I don't really care. If the stuff is going to turn white in the long run, then I obviously don't want to use it.
I ordered a different brand from another company. I will let you know how it works
Don't forget for really small pits try rubbing compound first. It works really well.
-Mr. Wigggles
Must be all those oil refinery explosions in Houston, they must put some nasty fumes in the air!
04-07-2005, 01:00 PM
#40
Registered User
Originally Posted by SpinninAgain!
I've used Mazda's yellow touchup paint on my 8 since last Fall. I agree it dries/goes stringy very quickly, but mine didn't turn white and hasn't turned white in the 6 months or so it's been on the car.Must be all those oil refinery explosions in Houston, they must put some nasty fumes in the air!
Anyway, I used http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch_up_paint.asp to get my yellow this time and it looks much better and was much easier to apply.
They also have these super nifty micro-dabbers that work much better than toothpicks.
-Mr. Wigggles
04-08-2005, 04:33 PM
#41
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Just wanted to add my 2 cents.....I work for a Mercedes-Benz Dealership and we send our cars to the bodyshop for rock chips. I went over to check out how they fix it due to curiosity one day. They use an airbrush and wipe off the excess. It looks flawless. It's not cheap, but it looks incredible. I'm gonna have them do my Sunlight Silver 8 once a year!
Clear Bra
07-29-2005, 05:10 PM
#46
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ROCK chips
I have used the Mazda touch up paint on a few chips to the front bumper and like most think the paint SUCKS. It needs about four or five applications with the cut end of a toothpick or a soft match to cover the chip in the black plastic bumper. The next chip will get some of my can of red rust destroyer primer first as my RX8 is red. That may help.
As for the touch-up paint bump. Go to your friendly neighbourhood Walmart and buy the 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and the 3M scratch remover. In Canada, that will cost you a whopping 10 bucks in total. Give the bump or in fact any scratch in your plastic lenses or paint a little wet rub. I will look white and cloudy at this point. Ofcourse don't go crazy and rub off the clear coat. Then a little 3M scratch remover (NOT rubbing compound!!!) on a cloth, a little rubbing and it's gone. The 3M scratch remover is great stuff. It will feel a little gritty but breaks down real fast to give a smooth finish. It may require 3 or 4 times with the 3M to get it just right. A little wax and it's almost invisible.
I hope this cheap fix helps.
As for the touch-up paint bump. Go to your friendly neighbourhood Walmart and buy the 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and the 3M scratch remover. In Canada, that will cost you a whopping 10 bucks in total. Give the bump or in fact any scratch in your plastic lenses or paint a little wet rub. I will look white and cloudy at this point. Ofcourse don't go crazy and rub off the clear coat. Then a little 3M scratch remover (NOT rubbing compound!!!) on a cloth, a little rubbing and it's gone. The 3M scratch remover is great stuff. It will feel a little gritty but breaks down real fast to give a smooth finish. It may require 3 or 4 times with the 3M to get it just right. A little wax and it's almost invisible.
I hope this cheap fix helps.
09-08-2005, 07:59 AM
#47
roxi
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Velocity Red Mica Touch Up Paint need
Does anyone in the Detroit, Michigan area know where I can pick up a bottle? I didn't get one when I purchased my 8 in 03 and want to clean up a couple of chips. Dealerships don't have any and none around in auto supply stores. Roxi
09-09-2005, 09:05 AM
#48
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Check here to see if this is the stuff. 3M scratch remover online its 7.49 per 8 oz bottle, no idea how much shipping is on it. www.carbonandchrome.com/prod-0031748.html
Ramses
Ramses
