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SCCA rules 2017:
14.10 M. Cars with combustion chamber oil injection systems (such as those in rotary
engines) may supplement the standard engine lubrication with additional
oil supplied through the standard fuel delivery system.
Yeah, that is just great. A rules clarification that requires clarification.
In SCCA solo rules parlance
supplied through the standard fuel delivery system
the word they unnecessarily added "standard" is an SCCA keyword with defined meaning in the rules and so indicates that according to the "clarification" premix may only be added to a stock as delivered fuel system.
SCCA sucks at rules.
Sorry, your understanding of how the rules work is where the 'suck' starts.
The clarification was made in Sect. 14, Street Touring. In that prep level you aren't permitted to make fuel system mods. In Sect 15, Street Prepared, the Sect. 14 allowances are rolled over into it plus the allowed modifications, which include fuel system modifications. In short, pre-mixing is allowed from Sect. 14 and on along with the allowed modifications. They're just making sure the Sect. 14 competitors understand that "a) pre-mixing is allowed" and "b) any other mods beyond the category prep allowances to support using pre-mix are not allowed".
I've yet to see any allowance for the installation of a Sohn adapter. The creative interpretations expressed over the last several pages will not pass a Protest review. The only way to have it permitted is for it to be accepted by the SP committee/SEB for member review/comment submittal in Fasttrack and then be accepted and approved by the SEB/BOD for the next season. So the soonest it could happen would be next year if someone submits and gets it sent out for review within the next several months. It is a very specific equipment addition for which there currently is no allowance (if it doesn't say you can, then you can't). In my opinion it will be rejected, which is why I never tried to submit it or have any intention to use the Sohn. Feel free to try yourself though or just run one with the understanding that you'll likely get tossed from the results if challenged on it.
We got the car back on the dyno. Only mods have been cutting the oem cat out of the midpipe and installing the Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator, and the Mazda Motorsports clutch. The before lines were a fresh rebuild on a CS car, and we picked up 20 doritos and 10 wtq after 1 year and two mods! Still stock tune, no other power mods. We did delete AC. I'm just happy no doritos ran away in the past year.
The clutch is pretty amazing. We can FEEL the acceleration difference. Wouldn't recommend it for a car you want to daily on the street, but we drove to the dyno appointment and I've done some other street driving with the car when breaking in the clutch and new diff.
Keep in mind this is a "heartbreaker" mustang dyno.
We've done two events so far this season. The first was a test and tune where we were setting up around the new diff. We had some major wheel hop issues (installed delrin diff mounts with the new diff, but the rest of the bushings were OEM). We suspected a bushing imbalance combined with the aggressive clutch, so we installed all new poly (powerflex and energy suspension) and some delrin bushings over the past few weeks, and did the DIY engine mount filling. The only OEM bushing left is the bottom of the shock mount (will replace at some point) and the compliance bushing in the front lower, rear control arm (will keep OEM), and the subframe bushings (will replace at some point). Our second outing was at NER and our wheel hop is gone (when combined with the right launching RPM of course), and the car felt great. Ended up 5th overall in pax at one of the toughest SCCA clubs in the nation - I'll take it.
Still need to get a professional alignment (we were "approximate"), tune, and aero. Also, continue working on driver mod, as always.
Finally feeling a little motivation to try and finish this out, or at least I started ordering some parts from where I last left off ...
So I decided against the two-injector setup and will instead run a pair of ID725s primary and ID1300s secondary. The main reason is a concern to ensure good distribution of pre-mix with E85 fuel, which I intend to run at least 3oz/gallon of Redline.
I've never met you, but heard good things, and lots of great knowledge shared by you on the forum from awhile ago. Welcome back! Will we see you at any national events this year? What's left to finish the build?
I've yet to see any allowance for the installation of a Sohn adapter. [snip]
.
Marc,
You should write in if you feel strongly about it. The current ACs and SEB are very interested in making sure that competitors feel like their interests are being served, and are willing to consider allowances that make sense for the class. See also the recent "breakage allowances" that SP received. With all of the other coolers and containers that can be added to the oiling system, including accusumps, I can't see how this would be outside of that intent.
Good luck and I look forward to seeing this thing back out there!
Actually I haven't kept up with the rules closely for the last several years and after just reading new rule 15.10.DD in the 2017 Solo rulebook you could probably install a Sohn legally per it's wording. There is nothing that allows you to modify the windshield reservoir though and such a mod is struck down in that wording. You'd have to install an oil sump without modifying anything else, like where the OE air pump was mounted etc.
Sorry, your understanding of how the rules work is where the 'suck' starts.
The clarification was made in Sect. 14, Street Touring. In that prep level you aren't permitted to make fuel system mods.
14.10.F.4. Fuel pressure regulators may be replaced in lieu of electronic alterations to the fuel system. It is not permitted to electronically modify the
fuel system AND replace a fuel pressure regulator.
SCCA just called electronic alterations to the fuel system a modification to the fuel system. By their definition of "standard" the fuel system is no longer standard with ECU fuel tuning or a fuel pressure regulator.
In Sect 15, Street Prepared, the Sect. 14 allowances are rolled over into it plus the allowed modifications, which include fuel system modifications.
Section 15 Street Prepared does not allow modifications from Section 14 Street Touring.
It only allows modifications from Section 13 Street. Perhaps you have it confused with Section 16 Street Modified which recently added allowing modifications from Section 14 Street Touring?
15.1 AUTHORIZED MODIFICATIONS
A. All Allowable modifications permitted in Section 13, Street Category are
allowed.
B. Street Prepared vehicles may only be modified in excess of Street Category
rules in the following ways. Any modification not specifically authorized
by the Street Category or Street Prepared rules is prohibited.
In short, pre-mixing is allowed from Sect. 14 and on along with the allowed modifications. They're just making sure the Sect. 14 competitors understand that "a) pre-mixing is allowed" and "b) any other mods beyond the category prep allowances to support using pre-mix are not allowed".
I agree pre-mixing is allowed in Street Touring and that their intent was to allow pre-mixing with the allowed Street Touring modifications to the fuel system (FPR or electronic), but no further modifications to the fuel system.
I hope you have a speedy recovery from your recent driver mod weight reduction!
Haha, guess the suck is all mine then. I thought there was a concerted effort by the SEB a number of years ago to bring ST in line as a consecutive progression to SP.
I communicated with Doug Gill about that and apparently somewhere along the way the idea was sh-t canned (my accurate summary of words, not his). It's a bit disappointing for me because I was on the SEB when it was first started in that direction around 2005 or so.
Frankly, the current outlook and direction of the SEB is a part of my dropping out of the sport for the last three years after being a hardcore participant for 25 years prior. A large part of it IMO is there is extreme resistance from the old guard SP competitors to oppose any changes being imposed on them from ST. Equally so, the same can be said about the ST leaders who think their surge in popularity gives them carte blanche to do whatever they want regardless of the impact on anyone else. However, it's the SEBs charter responsibility to get that situation under control and put them both on the hard & narrow path of working together towards an overall shared common set of goals.
The fact that the new 14.10.M ST premix clarification was implemented this year without any consideration for SP too only demonstates how fubar the current situation. Of which this is the end result of weak leadership and an overall lack of planned conceptual objectives.
Guess I'll catch a lot of flack for posting this, so excuse me while I go put my fire-suit gear on ....
I'll preface that I am asking an annoying question, but my search n00b-fu has failed thus far...
JoeFis has stated via e-mail that they currently have no interest in doing the rx8 SP aero at this time. So it looks like I'm going DIY. Most of my simple searches have neded up in places that even say "go to JoeFis..." when getting around to describing Aero, or it's annoying discussions about whether Aero should be in Solo at all. Any links to good broad DIY Aero?
Sorry to hear that. I have a new JoeFis kit on standby for installation. The best I can offer is to try and provide any info to you on it that I can.
The rear i think i know what to do, bend lexan to leave a 1" strip to fasten flush to the trunk on either the horizontal or vertical plane, make sure to trim so that it's never more than 10" away from the body in any direction, get some race bodies to fasten the spoiler itself. I might be underestimating bending lexan of course...
Front splitter, i'm not sure where to start, but a few friends have some loose thing laying around, so i might just mess with it until something gets close to right...
The JoeFis pieces being easy to bolt on and off are certainly attractive
Generally, as I haven't started on the RX yet.
My recommendation is to start with a cardboard cutout. Then we usually move to plywood. I/we usually use 2-3 supports out the front while using as many tie ins to the frame as possible.
After you get a working example you can easily move to a "better" material.
Like I said it's very general. If you have some specific questions I will try to answer.
Generally, as I haven't started on the RX yet.
My recommendation is to start with a cardboard cutout. Then we usually move to plywood. I/we usually use 2-3 supports out the front while using as many tie ins to the frame as possible.
After you get a working example you can easily move to a "better" material.
Like I said it's very general. If you have some specific questions I will try to answer.
I'd assume you guys try to get the splitter as low as you can? Sheet metal for the air dam portion?
I'd assume you guys try to get the splitter as low as you can? Sheet metal for the air dam portion?
I have used both sheet metal and a light weight corrugated plastic. I go as low as I can and try for level (zero pitch). Err towards nose down but be careful there is a limit in the rules that I can't remember ATM.
So I'm looking at buying an icengineworks kit to model a race header. The intention is to run individual flanges and pipes into a very long merge collector having double-slip inlet joints in light gauge T321 material. Figure I can get the weight down near 5 or 6 lbs and all the pipes will be separate of each other and the collector for an easier install and removal. However, the main intent is that this allows everything to expand and contract independently without each pipe stressing the other, which is why I'm retiring my old race manifold design. The other usual headers handle the stress by using very heavy 0.063" - 0.080" wall thickness lower grade T304 stainless plus the massive full flange and emissions junk we don't need that is also dead weight.
As much as I'd like to make the the pipes in inconel 625 material it's likely not feasible for me now, which I'm guessing might be around $2k - $2.5k or so, but will ask for a comparison estimate. It will be semi long pipe if only to have it exiting around where the OE cat exit is to match up with my existing 3" race exhaust. My opinion about pipe length being irrelevent is well documented on other threads, but in this case due to the independence the longer pipes will also provide more flexibility regarding expansion and contraction stressing. Probably can get a better price building several at the same time if anyone else is interested. Thinking it will be around $800 or hopefully less due it's a single 3-pipe manifold that's fairly simple compared to a pair of snaking V8 race headers.
I didn't machine anything to fit. I ended up sending what I originally had back to them (think it was the weld-on adapter) and swapped it for the splined bolt-on shaft adapter with QD. Everything was bolt-on from there. It came out nice for not a big cash layout. Sean Hedrick @ miatacage.com was great to work with, including letting me swap out stuff I had bought almost a year earlier from him.
Regarding DSC, here's one idea (mine is a base '2005, so no DSC). When you push the DSC button at some point a signal is sent to illuminate the DSC indicator on the dash. If you can get access to that signal and tie it in to either a relay/timer or PLC controller then you could possibly set it up to where at some set time after the engine starts the DSC button switch is engaged until the DSC dash light signal flips it off just like how you do it manually by hand with the button.
Originally Posted by Silverhks
No takers on the weight question I see...
@TeamRX8
I stumbled on that miatacage spline adapter myself and promptly ordered one then on rereading this thread saw your post about having to machine it to fit. Approximately how much did yo need to take off? I don't have it in my grubby palms yet, what issue did you foresee with DSC integration?
On that note, I have yet to find a way to disable DSC without losing ABS. Can anybody point me in a helpful direction?
Edit: best method I have found is wire in a toggle switch to disable DSC on startup, like you pushed the button. This is more of a hack than true disable. I think when I get around to tuning and/or a standalone it can/will be disabled but that is for later in the year... /edit
It's looking more and more like I will be ready for Dixie. If it is on the calendar, haven't seen the 2017 schedule yet.
Think I'm going to order this new Global MX5 Cup car steering wheel that's on early order discount from Mazda Motorsports for the next several days. I had already bought a bare aluminum sw, but this looks too nice to pass up
So I'm looking at buying an icengineworks kit to model a race header. The intention is to run individual flanges and pipes into a very long merge collector having double-slip inlet joints in light gauge T321 material. Figure I can get the weight down near 5 or 6 lbs and all the pipes will be separate of each other and the collector for an easier install and removal. However, the main intent is that this allows everything to expand and contract independently without each pipe stressing the other, which is why I'm retiring my old race manifold design. The other usual headers handle the stress by using very heavy 0.063" - 0.080" wall thickness lower grade T304 stainless plus the massive full flange and emissions junk we don't need that is also dead weight.
As much as I'd like to make the the pipes in inconel 625 material it's likely not feasible for me now, which I'm guessing might be around $2k - $2.5k or so, but will ask for a comparison estimate. It will be semi long pipe if only to have it exiting around where the OE cat exit is to match up with my existing 3" race exhaust. My opinion about pipe length being irrelevent is well documented on other threads, but in this case due to the independence the longer pipes will also provide more flexibility regarding expansion and contraction stressing. Probably can get a better price building several at the same time if anyone else is interested. Thinking it will be around $800 or hopefully less due it's a single 3-pipe manifold that's fairly simple compared to a pair of snaking V8 race headers.
That sounds a lot more attractive than what I'm about to do... I already bought the Racing Beat Header to lop off it's merge and flange to instead put in a Burns Collector. Then again this next step might not go well so you might be hearing from me
Considered same, the weight and smallish primary pipe size was a hang up for me.
Just put a used RB header up for sale last night, so committed to my own now.
Taking cues from some of your other posts, I'll be building it as a V-Band system, so a swap out should be easy If it's a wasted header setup, at least i'll have some before and after dyno results.
04-24-2017, 08:36 PM
If it's a wasted header setup, at least i'll have some before and after dyno results.