Zonly1

So, My car gets about 200 miles to the tank when driving it very easy no hauling butt at all. When I do push it I get about 160. I went to today to get the compression test done and they said it was good. I'll post the results Later. They wanted a crazy price list to get things done. Here ya go!

1. Compression Test - $146.88 Got it Done
2. Oil Change $35.00 Done!
3. Cabin filter change- 53.20

Labor- $242.88
Parts-$39.09
Shop Supplies- $20.00
Tax- $5.99
Total. 307.96...haha!

Here's what they said still needs to be done. Parts and labor

OEM Plugs- $276.00
OEM Wires- $133.00
Both Engine Mounts-$354.00
Drive belts Replaced-$151.00
Engine undershield-$200.40
"Weak Clutch"-$1138.80
Resurface flywheel-$100.00
Total-$2353.20...LMAO!


Its warmed up here Im used the A/C and noticed the a/c gets cold for 15 secs then goes room temp for another 15sec or so then so on and so on. My BMW in Italy did that. Is it a Fuze or relay...or is the compressor SHot!?


Thanks Time to kill Ebay and get some parts.

Zonly1

OH! here's what they read for the Compression Test. I will try to show what they wrote on the ticket.
@ 261 rpm

#1 5.4, 5.8, 6.0
#2 6.1, 5.8, 5.7

Zonly1

Where's the best place to get these parts....Ebay's not lookin good

RotorWheeee

Some details, year and mileage on car.
Depending on that half of this is warranty work.

Nice price on plugs ,
$80-90 plus a bit of your time and your done

Zonly1

the Car is a 2004 with 81K on it. What is covered on warrenty?

RotorWheeee

Mileage might be a problem but depending if you have any of the extended warranties you have a chance on the engine mounts, they may also be covered by a service bulletins found here http://www.finishlineperformance.com....php?pageid=11 (a bunch of good stuff here)

As for spark plugs and wires (BHR) http://www.blackhaloracing.com/

Depending on you driving style, clutch should be fine but that would be very dependant on how you drive. There are a few threads around here that describe how to test your clutch wear for yourself (you will have to look for that one)
If a clutch is really needed refer to the guys at BHR

Old Rotor

Your compression is LOW. How many miles on plugs, wires, coils? When all those parts are in good shape then I would try a can of Seafoam($8 Walmart) and add it to a half or quarter tank of gas and ring it out give it a few revs to the redline after it warms up. Did they do a de-carbon cleaning on the engine? When I brought mine in with low compression they did a Zoom cleaning N/C. It says in the "TSB" it's covered till the 8yr-100K mile engine warranty runs out. Here is the "TSB"....


http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-08-1924g.pdf

Roaddemon

that AC problem was covered under warranty by tsb. Unfortunately your tsb warranty expired in 2008. It's only good for 4 years.

Zonly1

Oil Rotor...From what I know from the guy I got it from he was the second owner. He never changed the plugs, wires or coils. He only had it like 3 years. So my guess is the first guy ever did it because it was so new and now Its my turn to have it all done. So my guess it that the PLUGS,WIRES ad Coils all have 81k on them. The car has the 100k mile extended warranty I know for sure the stealership told me this. Im gonna go with the BHR Coil Kit and get the plugs. Funny thing the Guy at the stealership told me my year doesnt' have coils...but on the mechanic reciept he said they were good. haha! I also told him the plugs at Autozone are 19.95 each. He didn't believe me so he called all the shops and they all told him the same. 19.95. He said after I change all that he will do the compression check again for free.

Lunacy

I had the same ac problem. Look in the DIY section for the AC fix. Took me about 30 minutes and a bit of solder.

Zonly1

So I get this fixed for free still? I have it i my rear left light. How do thses bulletins work?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...05-09-2055.pdf

Roaddemon is this the fix you did?

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-climate-control-blower-resistor-fix-test-191801/

The problem i have is the cold air will come out for some sec then off then on and so forth. I read about the amplifier needing to be replaced.?

Baghli

iTrader: (1)

Ya, your compression values is pretty low man! And all those pricess are pretty high too, im just comparing to my dealership.

WTF? I just had mine decarboned by my dealership and I had to pay for it... Wish someone had told me about this lol...

CTrx8

iTrader: (2)

for the condensation TSB, it is just during your bumper-to-bumper so you're over that. they'll all say which warranty they apply to (bumper-to-bumper or extended engine warranty).

Baghli

iTrader: (1)

p.s. for the clutch, i dont know if what the other post said about how to test the clutch but the common way that im aware of is turn the car on (let it warm up first so u dont flood the engine), engage the parking break, put the car in 3rd then slowly let out the clutch pedal. the faster the clutch stalls the more life u have in the clutch. if it doesnt stall at all then u should be looking into getting a new clutch pretty soon.

Zonly1

Thanks everyone. Anyone know where I can find the stock compression specs are and what is the minimal allowence? I need to slap the this in the face of the dealership and get my engine swapped if its below specs. Thanks To all RickZ!

Zonly1

@ 261 rpm

#1 5.4, 5.8, 6.0
#2 6.1, 5.8, 5.7


*EDIT*
After searching the forum i found this.

It was from a manual.
The standard is 8.5kgf.cm2 120 psi @ 250 RPM's
Minimal is 6.9kgf.cmw 98.6psi @ 250RPM's


What do I do now? Did they do it at a higher RPM to get higher results? ***** F@#kers

Baghli

iTrader: (1)

I dont think they will actually switch out your engine due to low compression but I could be wrong. When I had my compression test done they told me I could increase them with a decarb. My values werent that low but after having the decarb done I can tell you the car drives better, I get slightly higher speeds at lower rpm (I was getting 52mph in 4th gear at 4000rpm and now I get 56mph). I havent had a compression test done after because I dont wanna pay for another one but if what they said is true then the decarb would bring you up or closer to the min values. With the miles on the car you arent going to get 8.5 regardless of what you do. And maybe someone else could verify this as im not sure but I dont think 250rpm or 261rpm is going to make a big difference.