Rawrexate

Hello Everyone!

I've been saving my pennys for 2 years and yesterday I finally got my new, 2007 RX-8 GT! I love it (of course).

I had a few questions/concerns that I've been searching for on these forums so far, but havent found a definitive answer.

1. Oil Type. I see threads about, I've read them, but I just want to *clarify*.
Mazda recommends 5w-20, but that is BAD correct? 5w-30 is THE best oil to use, am I correct? I only want the best for this car, so if someone can clarify that asap, I would really appreciate it.

2. I've read that you should NEVER turn the car on, move it say, a few feet to wash it or something and then turn it off. You should drive it for a few minutes to prevent flooding. Is this still needed on the 2007 model of the car? Also whenever I turn the car off ANY time after any length of driving (and the car is obviously warmed up) should I just rev it slightly and then turn it off as the revs go down?

3. Redline. By the sounds of things, people LOVE to redline, and who wouldnt? Its beastly. But from what I was reading so far, it is actually good for the car to redline it once in a while. What would you recommend? Redline each gear accelerating on the highway? Or just pound it in the city once a day to clean some carbon out of the engine? Clarification on this one would be very nice (and fun, im sure )

4. What other MAJOR Items do I need to know now that I have an 07 RX-8? I've read the manual front to back, word for word, but is there anything that you, the experienced, knowledgable owners of the RX-8 can recommend? Tips? Tricks? Anything is welcome.

I thank you for your time, and look forward to your responses.

PS. I'm not a very "technical" guy yet when it comes to cars. I'm trying to learn, but go easy on the tech talk if possible

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Anytime you disconnect the battery, the (electric) steering will show an error - turn the wheel all the way left/right/left to reset.

A screen across the radiator (a/c) fins can save rock damage.

The factory oil filter is screwed on by a Sumo - let the dealer do the first oil change.

Intake kits that don't get cool air from infront of the radiator (like the factory system) do nothing for power. In fact, the factory inlet and exhausts are very well optimized, and 'investments' in these areas will likely yield zero......

S

Zerotide

iTrader: (1)

I'm kinda new too but I'll try to answer some of these from what I've learned.

1. Everyone has their different opinions on oil. I bought 5W-30 for my car but if Mazda reccomends 5W-20 I'm sure that is fine too.

2. Well I heard some of the flashes and recalls fixed the flooding problem for the most part but you're right, you do run the risk of flooding if you shut it off cold. Try to let the engine warm up to at least 1/3... you don't have to drive it around, just give it a few healthy revs. You will probably hear popping coming from the exhaust.

3. Redlining... rotaries do get carbon buildup so a redline once (or as often as you like) a day will keep your 8 healthy. Since it sounds like your car might be new... maybe it would be a good idea to let it break in before driving it too hard.

4. Hmm... well read the stickies and decide if you want to spend the extra money on premium fuel. I've heard there's alot of myths about whether 91 octane will actually increase engine life and whether certain cars actually need it. I'm sure someone has done research on it. Pretty much all you need to know is: have fun! RX8s are great fun and I'm sure it will never fail to put a smile on your face!

Congrats on your new 8!

Varalith

As far as the oil goes, Mazda used to recommend 20w-50 for their rotaries up until the renesis. Most engine builders are suggesting 10w-40 for naturally aspirated engines, and 20w-50 for turbocharged. I started 5w-30 upon purchasing mine, but on the next oil change am switching to 10w-40. If you're worried about cold starts, just premix a little marvel mystery oil (4-6oz per fillup) or some type of 2 cycle (I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 2T, but it's out of production now, still have some saved up).

On the gas, I have heard of people running all grades. Some engines knock and have detonation, some don't. I'm sure a good tune for a certain grade would help, but you'd need a tuning module for that. If it were me, for the extra 20 cents a gallon I'd just run 93 or 91 to be safe. If everyone had the same experience with the 87 and 89 I wouldn't mind, but since it's different between cars I personally dont' want to take any chances.

And yes redline the hell out of it, it'll thank you for it.

robrecht

I'm glad someone finally mentioned premix. Main reason for this is to add a little bit of extra protection for the center of the apex seals. Older rotaries used to 'inject' oil into this area. On the 2004-08 Renesis there are two oil injectors for each rotor but they're aimed at the sides probably because of the hot exhaust side ports. Mazda has now added to the 2009 Renesis a third oil injector aimed at the center of the apex seal again. Some people have seen unusual wear here on these engines. Hurts compression, power, mileage. Premix can help a worn engine run better or presumably keep your new engine in better shape longer. One highly recommended premix cocktail is 3-4 oz Idemitsu premix (designed for use with rotaries) with 1-2 oz FP+. The FP+ should also help with preventing carbon build-up, but some refer to it as a 'lubricious' cleaner that might be better than something like Techron that might hurt oil films if used too much. FP+ also contains something called cyclohexanone that not only dissolves carbon but converts it into a kind of graphite lubricant. Some prefer the simplicity of merely using Marvel Mystery Oil as a premix, which lubricates and cleans, but a few others say its snake oil not worthy of a lawn mower.

Whew! Now you don't have to read the 53-page premix thread, but of course you will still want to I'm sure.

ken-x8

1. You'll get dozens of answers. Just use name brand oil, 5w20 if you live in a temperate or cold region of the US or Canada. 5w30 if you live in the south...personally I'd go that one grade higher with any car in the south. But the most important thing is to use a name brand, API SL or better, and change it regularly.

2. Still applies to '07s. If the car is warm, just shut it off. The rev procedure is if you warm it up by letting it sit and idle rather than by driving it. Either the owner's manual or the quick start guide (maybe both) give the exact procedure. I believe the DVD does, too.

3. I try to redline in second at least once a day. That's 60 mph, so it's kind of hard to do off the highway. It's going to depend on where you drive and what you can do. FWIW, I'd rather shift up to third and rev to only 7K (70 mph) on my favorite on-ramp, rather than poke along at 60 if the road ahead is clear.

4. Not much. In almost two years of ownership, the only special thing I've worried about is not shutting off cold. Even the fixation about checking and topping off oil is no big deal - maybe a quart every 2k to 3k miles. In my youth I owned cars that needed a quart every 200 miles.

Mostly just enjoy it. And make use of those curvy on ramps.

Ken

Rawrexate

Thanks for the responses everyone!