New RX-8 driver
#1
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New RX-8 driver
I picked up a 2004 Nordic Green about a month ago, with just over 100,000 miles on it. Six speed on stock 18's, and very few options. Just how I like it. If it had a sunroof, I would not fit in the car!
I had a 1981 RX-7 (black w/red interior). In 1996 I traded it in at 155,000 miles. The engine still ran super strong, but other stuff was starting to go. It's good be back in a rotary powered car!
So far I'm really likin the 8. The handling is super impressive. The car is not a drag racer but aside from that it holds its own really well. The 9000 RPM redline is addictive. I think I'm going to have to invest in a good radar detector...
So far I've done basic fixing stuff -- a few bulbs to replace, a new seat belt... stuff like that. I have the stuff ready to go for an oil change, new rear pads and a brake fluid flush.
Next up, I'm thinking of upgrading to LED parking lights and side markers, maybe some strakes or upgraded fender vents. I'll need belts soon so I'm talking myself into those fancy blue ones. Just for peace of mind I'm going to change out the diff and transmission fluid.
I'll need plugs in 9k miles so I'm seriously thinking about the BHR ignition upgrade or something similar when I do that. But the expensive stuff will have to wait a while since I'm between jobs at the moment. Sometimes that whole "feed the family" thing really gets in the way of my car addiction.
At any rate this forum's already been super helpful so thanks y'all. That includes the forums sponsors as well. I've already bought stuff from some of the sponsors and saved some $$$ on the parts I needed.
All the good info's already in the forum so I doubt I'll have much to add, but once I learn my way around the car a bit better I'll sure try.
Regards,
Aaron
2004 RX-8 6 speed
Nordic Green, 100% stock
2004 RX-8 6 speed
Nordic Green, 100% stock
#5
Yep, I second plugs, coils, and wires, though I also suggest changing all the fluids since you can't be sure when they were changed last.
Stick with a good oil filter and some 10w40 or 20w50 and you should be good to go.
A compression check couldn't hurt and would give you an idea of the condition of the combustion chambers.
Stick with a good oil filter and some 10w40 or 20w50 and you should be good to go.
A compression check couldn't hurt and would give you an idea of the condition of the combustion chambers.
#6
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I picked up a 2004 Nordic Green about a month ago, with just over 100,000 miles on it. Six speed on stock 18's, and very few options. Just how I like it. If it had a sunroof, I would not fit in the car!
I had a 1981 RX-7 (black w/red interior). In 1996 I traded it in at 155,000 miles. The engine still ran super strong, but other stuff was starting to go. It's good be back in a rotary powered car!
So far I'm really likin the 8. The handling is super impressive. The car is not a drag racer but aside from that it holds its own really well. The 9000 RPM redline is addictive. I think I'm going to have to invest in a good radar detector...
So far I've done basic fixing stuff -- a few bulbs to replace, a new seat belt... stuff like that. I have the stuff ready to go for an oil change, new rear pads and a brake fluid flush.
Next up, I'm thinking of upgrading to LED parking lights and side markers, maybe some strakes or upgraded fender vents. I'll need belts soon so I'm talking myself into those fancy blue ones. Just for peace of mind I'm going to change out the diff and transmission fluid.
I'll need plugs in 9k miles so I'm seriously thinking about the BHR ignition upgrade or something similar when I do that. But the expensive stuff will have to wait a while since I'm between jobs at the moment. Sometimes that whole "feed the family" thing really gets in the way of my car addiction.
At any rate this forum's already been super helpful so thanks y'all. That includes the forums sponsors as well. I've already bought stuff from some of the sponsors and saved some $$$ on the parts I needed.
All the good info's already in the forum so I doubt I'll have much to add, but once I learn my way around the car a bit better I'll sure try.
Regards,
Aaron
2004 RX-8 6 speed
Nordic Green, 100% stock
I had a 1981 RX-7 (black w/red interior). In 1996 I traded it in at 155,000 miles. The engine still ran super strong, but other stuff was starting to go. It's good be back in a rotary powered car!
So far I'm really likin the 8. The handling is super impressive. The car is not a drag racer but aside from that it holds its own really well. The 9000 RPM redline is addictive. I think I'm going to have to invest in a good radar detector...
So far I've done basic fixing stuff -- a few bulbs to replace, a new seat belt... stuff like that. I have the stuff ready to go for an oil change, new rear pads and a brake fluid flush.
Next up, I'm thinking of upgrading to LED parking lights and side markers, maybe some strakes or upgraded fender vents. I'll need belts soon so I'm talking myself into those fancy blue ones. Just for peace of mind I'm going to change out the diff and transmission fluid.
I'll need plugs in 9k miles so I'm seriously thinking about the BHR ignition upgrade or something similar when I do that. But the expensive stuff will have to wait a while since I'm between jobs at the moment. Sometimes that whole "feed the family" thing really gets in the way of my car addiction.
At any rate this forum's already been super helpful so thanks y'all. That includes the forums sponsors as well. I've already bought stuff from some of the sponsors and saved some $$$ on the parts I needed.
All the good info's already in the forum so I doubt I'll have much to add, but once I learn my way around the car a bit better I'll sure try.
Regards,
Aaron
2004 RX-8 6 speed
Nordic Green, 100% stock
-Chris
Last edited by RX8.PIPE.DREAMS; 02-22-2010 at 11:31 AM.
#8
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Thanks y'all for the welcome.
The plugs were done at 90,000 miles. The wires look OK but I haven't ohmed them. I may just change them out when I do the plugs. Haven't touched the coils yet either.
I'll get to the fluids as time permits but due to the job thing I'm waiting on the more expensive stuff. I read some of the threads saying not to run 5W-20. I admit I was surprised that the engine used such lightweight oil. If I recall correctly, my RX-7 used 20W-50 Castrol GTX. I haven't decided what to run in the car yet.
I bought the car at 103,985 miles and I'm about to hit 107,000 miles. Today was my last day at work so my 88 mile commute is over. FYI I averaged about 20 mpg since I bought the car. The interior needs a few small things; stuff you wouldn't notice unless you were looking pretty hard.
The body is clean except for a few small dings. There are no corner rubs and only a few tiny spots of curb rash on the wheels. From more than 10 feet away it looks great. I had to replace a rear seat belt, a parking light and a driving light. Last but not least, the car needs an airbag TSB; the one where the steering wheel airbag cover rattles.
I was all set to get a compression test but needed a last minute reschedule. I decided to take a chance and bought the car without a compression test.
The seller wanted book value on the car, which was $7800 due to the miles and lack of options. After a few weeks of back and forth I bought the car for $5500.
As far as I can tell it was a one owner car with no accidents; Someone's situation changed and/or they didn't want to keep the car out of warranty. So far I've put a few hundred bucks into parts and an alignment. Sales tax, registration and all the other stuff puts me at $6300 out of pocket so far.
I don't have any decent pictures yet, but the car looks just like every other bone stock Nordic Green RX-8... that's a good thing BTW.
Cheers,
Aaron
The plugs were done at 90,000 miles. The wires look OK but I haven't ohmed them. I may just change them out when I do the plugs. Haven't touched the coils yet either.
I'll get to the fluids as time permits but due to the job thing I'm waiting on the more expensive stuff. I read some of the threads saying not to run 5W-20. I admit I was surprised that the engine used such lightweight oil. If I recall correctly, my RX-7 used 20W-50 Castrol GTX. I haven't decided what to run in the car yet.
I bought the car at 103,985 miles and I'm about to hit 107,000 miles. Today was my last day at work so my 88 mile commute is over. FYI I averaged about 20 mpg since I bought the car. The interior needs a few small things; stuff you wouldn't notice unless you were looking pretty hard.
The body is clean except for a few small dings. There are no corner rubs and only a few tiny spots of curb rash on the wheels. From more than 10 feet away it looks great. I had to replace a rear seat belt, a parking light and a driving light. Last but not least, the car needs an airbag TSB; the one where the steering wheel airbag cover rattles.
I was all set to get a compression test but needed a last minute reschedule. I decided to take a chance and bought the car without a compression test.
The seller wanted book value on the car, which was $7800 due to the miles and lack of options. After a few weeks of back and forth I bought the car for $5500.
As far as I can tell it was a one owner car with no accidents; Someone's situation changed and/or they didn't want to keep the car out of warranty. So far I've put a few hundred bucks into parts and an alignment. Sales tax, registration and all the other stuff puts me at $6300 out of pocket so far.
I don't have any decent pictures yet, but the car looks just like every other bone stock Nordic Green RX-8... that's a good thing BTW.
Cheers,
Aaron
#9
Rotary Junkie
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Thanks y'all for the welcome.
The plugs were done at 90,000 miles. The wires look OK but I haven't ohmed them. I may just change them out when I do the plugs. Haven't touched the coils yet either.
I'll get to the fluids as time permits but due to the job thing I'm waiting on the more expensive stuff. I read some of the threads saying not to run 5W-20. I admit I was surprised that the engine used such lightweight oil. If I recall correctly, my RX-7 used 20W-50 Castrol GTX. I haven't decided what to run in the car yet.
I bought the car at 103,985 miles and I'm about to hit 107,000 miles. Today was my last day at work so my 88 mile commute is over. FYI I averaged about 20 mpg since I bought the car. The interior needs a few small things; stuff you wouldn't notice unless you were looking pretty hard.
The body is clean except for a few small dings. There are no corner rubs and only a few tiny spots of curb rash on the wheels. From more than 10 feet away it looks great. I had to replace a rear seat belt, a parking light and a driving light. Last but not least, the car needs an airbag TSB; the one where the steering wheel airbag cover rattles.
I was all set to get a compression test but needed a last minute reschedule. I decided to take a chance and bought the car without a compression test.
The seller wanted book value on the car, which was $7800 due to the miles and lack of options. After a few weeks of back and forth I bought the car for $5500.
As far as I can tell it was a one owner car with no accidents; Someone's situation changed and/or they didn't want to keep the car out of warranty. So far I've put a few hundred bucks into parts and an alignment. Sales tax, registration and all the other stuff puts me at $6300 out of pocket so far.
I don't have any decent pictures yet, but the car looks just like every other bone stock Nordic Green RX-8... that's a good thing BTW.
Cheers,
Aaron
The plugs were done at 90,000 miles. The wires look OK but I haven't ohmed them. I may just change them out when I do the plugs. Haven't touched the coils yet either.
I'll get to the fluids as time permits but due to the job thing I'm waiting on the more expensive stuff. I read some of the threads saying not to run 5W-20. I admit I was surprised that the engine used such lightweight oil. If I recall correctly, my RX-7 used 20W-50 Castrol GTX. I haven't decided what to run in the car yet.
I bought the car at 103,985 miles and I'm about to hit 107,000 miles. Today was my last day at work so my 88 mile commute is over. FYI I averaged about 20 mpg since I bought the car. The interior needs a few small things; stuff you wouldn't notice unless you were looking pretty hard.
The body is clean except for a few small dings. There are no corner rubs and only a few tiny spots of curb rash on the wheels. From more than 10 feet away it looks great. I had to replace a rear seat belt, a parking light and a driving light. Last but not least, the car needs an airbag TSB; the one where the steering wheel airbag cover rattles.
I was all set to get a compression test but needed a last minute reschedule. I decided to take a chance and bought the car without a compression test.
The seller wanted book value on the car, which was $7800 due to the miles and lack of options. After a few weeks of back and forth I bought the car for $5500.
As far as I can tell it was a one owner car with no accidents; Someone's situation changed and/or they didn't want to keep the car out of warranty. So far I've put a few hundred bucks into parts and an alignment. Sales tax, registration and all the other stuff puts me at $6300 out of pocket so far.
I don't have any decent pictures yet, but the car looks just like every other bone stock Nordic Green RX-8... that's a good thing BTW.
Cheers,
Aaron
got his car for ~$5500 and with close to 200k on the clock but us "new" 100k+ owners are emerging.
#10
Drummond Built
iTrader: (6)
Yep, I second plugs, coils, and wires, though I also suggest changing all the fluids since you can't be sure when they were changed last.
Stick with a good oil filter and some 10w40 or 20w50 and you should be good to go.
A compression check couldn't hurt and would give you an idea of the condition of the combustion chambers.
Stick with a good oil filter and some 10w40 or 20w50 and you should be good to go.
A compression check couldn't hurt and would give you an idea of the condition of the combustion chambers.
The 20W-50 is way too thick for the Renesis, thicker oil doesnt always mean better protection, look up the clearances for the Renesis and you will see that its much smaller than the 13B in the RX-7. A good 5W-30 or 10W-30, maybe 10W-40, will work. Its not the protecton of the oil, the oil is doing its job mostly, its the way the engine is designed which is causing the seals to fail, so switching to a thick oil wont help except rob the actual small clearances of oil that need to be lubricated.
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