When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The Rodeo shaft was $60 plus a $15 u joint. The other u joint is $10 but it doesn't need it. The RX7 shaft (that I got the rear 7260 flange from) I traded an amp for. I have to have it lengthened and balanced. Not sure what that'll cost yet. $100 maybe? So it's cheaper and easier to source.
What engine did you put in?
EDIT - oh thats right. The LS. I was reading your thread the other day. What's the part number for your double D to Mustang steering joint? Got a pic of how you coupled the double D shaft to the 8 steering shaft? Did you retain the collapsible sleeve?
My runners are 39mm ID and 48mm OD. Those may clamp on or could be tacked. I wish I had the time and money to do this right but a $1000 manifold just isn't in the budget. I really just want to get it up and running NA for now and deal with the turbos next spring. That allows me to save up for good injectors and maybe an EMS.
Hello, why don't You use as the basis of the native intake manifold (lower part)? only the necessary milling and welding. I did so on my 6ve1
Hello, why don't You use as the basis of the native intake manifold (lower part)? only the necessary milling and welding. I did so on my 6ve1
I used the head flanges from the original intake. The elbows (for the runners) were cheap. If I used the lower Isuzu intake I'd still be welding up a plenum. My design flows better and looks better then a hacked up oem mani. Got any pics of what you came up with?
So to make a quick buck on the side, I decided to buy this Aerio for $500 to flip. Has a rod knock but I got a good used shortblock for $50. Otherwise these engine are like $750-1000. Yikes!
I started plumbing in an oil distribution block which I'll use to feed the turbos. In the mean time it'll be capped but it gives me easy access when the turbos go on. I goofed and tapped the top hole of my adaptor (oil out) instead of the return from the filter.
I had the driveshaft figured out using a Rodeo 4x4 rear section and swapping some flanges around. I was going with the steel one but had to have it lengthened because I couldn't find a 2wd Rodeo locally to see how long that shaft was. Well guess what popped up at the yard a few days ago? The 2wd Rodeo. So I bought the shaft out of it for $40 and grabbed another trans flange for Prescription8's build. Came home and double checked some measurements. I have 51" from the RX8 diff flange to the shifter. Then another 4" from the shifter to the trans flange. I need a 55" driveshaft. The 2wd Rodeo shaft is 55.75" and has a slip yoke I can squeeze a little more compression from. Looks like this shaft with a Dakota u joint to RX7 rear flange will then be a bolt-in. It's also 4" aluminum.
Looks like this shaft with a Dakota u joint to RX7 rear flange will then be a bolt-in. It's also 4" aluminum.
Isn't it great when that happens?? In a similar manner, when swapping a 5.0 into an E36 BMW, the V6 Mustang driveshaft is the perfect length and bolts right up with the right diff flange and conversion u-joint added.
Isn't it great when that happens?? In a similar manner, when swapping a 5.0 into an E36 BMW, the V6 Mustang driveshaft is the perfect length and bolts right up with the right diff flange and conversion u-joint added.
Sure is but damn does it take a lot of digging to find out what fits what. So many specifications are needed that are not listed in the service manuals.
For driveshaft flange alignment, I'll be putting a mock yoke flange on each end of a 2" tube that will bolt to the diff flange and trans flange. This will hold them in perfect alignment and will make it very easy to center and level the engine. I should have a minimum of 2.5* on each u-joint but oh well. Mazda screwed that up anyways (which is why the u-joints fail so early in life). I will too because it's easier and u-joints are cheap, and replacable. The jig leaves 1/2" wiggle room for the slip joint. I thought the Rodeo shaft was 0.750" too long but it's actually only 0.350" longer then ideal. I forgot I'm shaving 0.400" off the bellhousing so the clutch disc sits a little further down on the input shaft splines.
The bellhousing goes to the cnc tomorrow and the driveshaft jig goes to the lathe to have the ends trued and to have the spigots cut in the ends.
The 2000 Rodeo that this driveshaft came from has a bad engine. I may buy the engine as a core to use for mockup. I scrapped my old block unfortunatly. Plus it gives me another set of heads to fiddle with. Maybe I'll do some work on them and swap in the '04 cams with the 8* longer duration.
Bell housing is back. Cut .300" off the front and .100" off the back. I wanted more spline contact with the clutch disc and more nose in the crank. Still waiting on the driveshaft jig.
That tank is to pressurize the oil system in the engine before it's first start-up.
I got the driveshaft jig from the shop. Only the trans side is done because they had to turn the pipe so it rides nicely on the steady-rest in the lathe. Now I can weld on the second flange and send it back to the shop to have that side turned to mate the RX8 diff flange. This jig holds the drivetrain in align so I can finally get going on the engine mounts and get this engine in the car already. The project should move alone much quicker once it's in.
As for that Aerio. It took 3 weeks back and forth with ebay sellers to finally get the right parts. That engine is now finished and should be going back in the car this week. I'll wind up about $1500 ahead on that flip which should finish the RX8 swap, financially speaking.
The Aerio is rebuilt and back on the road. Decided to keep it and sold my other car, paid some bills, and ordered some parts. Engine mounts and square tubing are on the way. I decided to go with universal poly mounts but adapt them to the OE engine brackets. I think I found a radiator that will work well with how I'm running the coolant lines. It will be an aluminum cross-flow design. I need to bolt the bumper back on and measure but I think it'll be fine. It's only 26x16" but they rated it for 750hp. I don't know if I believe that. Also ordered the fittings to make a coolant bottle.
Radiator ordered.
Almost forgot. I bought another complete Isuzu v6 to use for mock up. $75. Couldn't pass it up.
Picked up the mock up engine today for $75. This is almost a complete engine less the starter, ac, and ps pump. With flex plate and cast iron exhaust manifolds attached. I'll weigh my engine before I put it in to see how much weight was taken off. I'll weigh with the same parts as this one.
09-14-2015, 09:57 PM
