MarsMaz

Hey Guys


So Ive been looking over this site for some time knowing that owning and rx isn't for the faint of heart and finally decided to bite the bullet and buy a RX8.


Sadly, it doesn't look like it was meant to be, the car was running great but lasted me a month and now is asleep in my garage.


Ive been told hundreds of things about what might be wrong, and you know what its like looking for problem solving on the net.


The care just stopped at 100km/h on the freeway, all electrics everything.


I had it towed to one mechanic who said there no compression by feeling it with his hand, but didn't know how to work on one. There was another guy around the corner recommended who tried decarbonising and changing spark plugs, but that didn't work out. The car was starting now, but spitting oil from somewhere. He really wanted nothing to do with it and said it would probably be an engine rebuild. He charged me $500, and after a few towing fees, Im flat broke and catching a bus to work.


So here I am now, listening to friends advice and looking for answers on here. Im going to try the ATF treatment, but I noticed as I was removing the spark plugs, that on a particular chamber, the plugs are burned? The car turns on, but doesn't stay on without revs. and once revs are up, there is a fair bit of back firing. No Smoke though. Also for some reason some lights and indicators aren't working either?


Im considering doing a rebuild myself, but before I even go there, I was hoping to cover all options first, especially reading about catalytic converters and other stuff I don't know too much about.


Look forward to hearing from all you Rxies

Jazer

For starters, shut off on the highway, is not indicative of failing compression. If it was running fine before this occurrence, I would not think it were compression related.

Failing compression is usually noticed with long warm starts or wont start at all when warm, idle dropping/stalling when coming to a stop.

When you say it's spitting oil, what do you mean? Is it leaving a drips on the floor? Is it actively flowing?

When was the last time you did your coils/wires as well as the plugs? These cars are a bit more reliant on a healthy ignition system. Backfiring and sputtering sounds kinda like its flooding, IE, not burning off the fuel.

Catalytic converter failure you would notice a lack in top end power as it begins failing generally, also it will heat up as there is more constriction and it's not getting the exhaust out efficiently.. so if you were to look under your car while driving it could be glowing (or a scan type gauge reading temps would read higher than normal temps).

You can't rely on a regular mechanic to diagnose a rotary. While they can fix the general car items that are pretty interchangeable throughout all cars, the engine itself is going to be new territory. It is likely that they haven't seen one in person so they haven't even read much about them. The overall rarity makes it unnecessary. Im sorry you lost money there.

If I were in your exact shoes, I personally, would find the oil leak, repair that however it needs to be repaired or part replaced... then I would replace the entire ignition system (coils/plugs/wires). I would check the voltage on the battery/alternator and make sure there is no issue there, for piece of mind... then go from there. Possibly doing a deflood procedure if it seems to be flooded out still. Even if you needed a rebuild, having those items replaced is still a good thing. You wouldn't be wasting money purchasing them.

MarsMaz

This is amazing info, thanks so much for your reply.


I have ordered a set of ignition coils and will let you know how it goes.


There were so many ways to test these that came up after a search, that I just thought it was better off buying a set.. They aren't genuine mazda though, but Im sure they'll at least get it started if that's where the problems coming from.


If this fails I guess I will try de flooding. Is it the method with the fuse under the seat or something like that?


Thanks again buddy, really appreciate it.


Not so disheartened anymore.

MarsMaz

Also it doesn't seem to be spitting out oil anymore. The mechanic left the oil nozzle ?unplugged.


Such and idiot.

Jazer

Oh gosh. lol. Glad the oil leak was so easy to remedy.

The symptoms you described sound like excess fuel, so first place to look would be making sure the ignition system is strong and able to burn it off. Typically you want to replace the coils/plugs/wires at the same time with these. It's a good habit.. but hopefully just coils will help you diagnose.

It very well could have just flooded when you were driving it and stalled out. When the car stalls the alternator also stop supplying power hence the "loss" of electrical.

I'm pretty new to these particular cars (despite a year+ of reading before I got mine, I've only had mine a few months). So double check... In the event you have new plugs, you might want to do a deflood procedure on it first, to help get excess fuel out so you don't foul out new plugs. If you do find that it was likely caused from flooding out.

Jazer

Just browsing another thread, came across a moderator that shared this information (thought it might help having it in someone elses words). Keep this in mind since you only got coils. This is why it's highly suggested to do the 3 at once.

MarsMaz

Just an update guys.

I've replaced the coils and spark plugs.

She just didn't want to start. So commenced de flood procedure. You know with fuse removal. Eventually started. A fair bit of white smoke as there was atf residue. And after a couple of minutes of idling at 3 krevs and it switched off for overheating!!

Really at my wits end.

Jazer

How hot was it when you shut it off? Do you ever recall a time where it overheated prior to this? If the needle moved at all from the center point of the gauge that means it's in the danger zone. The needle stays in the same spot for the entire range of normal operating temp. Once the needle begins moving it's already overheating, even if it isn't getting towards what appears to be the high zone. It's a horribly inaccurate design (I bought a obd2 scan gauge mainly just to monitor my temps properly)

White smoke typically points towards coolant (black-fuel, blue/gray-oil)... unless you're absolutely sure this was just the ATF burning off.. but along side the overheating I would be concerned about your coolant seals, unless you're not losing any coolant? Any burbing coming out of the overflow bottle? Was the smoke truly white?

Is it possible anything got unplugged while you were working on it? Fans not coming on, allowing the overheat?

gwilliams6

I hope you replaced coils,plugs and wires. You just mentioned coils and plugs. replace your wires also, as a bad wire can cause cascading problems with your engine just as easily as worn coils and plugs.

MarsMaz

Guys you are all awesome thanks heaps for regular posts.


.... No, I didn't replace leads trying to get away without, but ok ill replace them.


Car started good, I didn't switch it off it turned up after warming up for 5 minutes.


I will check for coolant related stuff tonight. I am pretty sure Im not loosing coolant but I will double check just the same, not 100% on ATF either, it did calm down after a few minutes. Although I must point out that as revs started to drop and I picked them up with more gas, the smoke started again.


Will let you all know what the go is.


Here we go again.


Lets hope its not coolant seal, that would mean a rebuild right?

Jazer

Wait, did the car stall out or you shut it off?

Also when you said it overheated, where was the needle? How hot was it?

Im kind of confused on what you are trying to describe there.

MarsMaz

The car wasn't in gear or anything, just warming up with gas down at 3k revs so it didn't stall and just turned off after a few minutes. I honestly didn't have my eyes on the temp gauge, but after stall the fan was on.


I will run it again tonight and see.


I am just as confused.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

The best way to unconfuse this is to go over things methodically. You said some lights and indicators weren't working, which ones? Have you checked the fuses related to the thing that weren't working?

When the car turned off, while you were warming it up, was it able to restart at all? Can you measure the battery voltage with the car off and with the car on?

Keep an eye on the temp gauge if you do run it again. If it starts to move, abort.

You said the fans came on, which is a good sign... the fans are working Was A/C on during this time?

Jastreb

iTrader: (1)

The ECU will automatically close the throttle to idle if you've been continuously revving it for exactly 5 minutes. I found this out when burping my cooling system. It is like a self-protection to keep from accidentally overheating. However if everything was working properly, it should have just continued idling normally from there. In your case, it stalled for some reason.

MarsMaz

Ok so, before I do anything else. This is where it's at.

Turn car on from cold, rumbles for about 5 seconds and dies. Same result time after time.

Heat gauge instantly hits just above half way. Maybe I'm being a little biased. But I'm quite sure.

Only other thing. Whispers don't work lol and right head light. Almost like there was a short when all this happened.

Can't tell coolant level. Not sure how to plus I'm checking after work so it's pretty dark.

So like you said first thing is first. Why not keeping idle ?

gwilliams6

It may be an electrical problem, test the battery and check electrical connections including grounds. Any CELs ? Less likely, but it could also be a problem with the fuel pump relay and/or the pump itself. How many miles on your car ?

Engine Power Loss
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure

MarsMaz

Whwn it comes to electrics I'm in the dark. Wouldn't know how to test for any if these. But I'll look into it.

MarsMaz

There is a check engine light I think.
It has 160 000 km on clock

I will double check tonight.

Don't know how to test cat or anything. Will do leads and make sure plugs aren't fouled on weekend.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Can you get your hands on an OBD scanner and see what check engine code it's throwing?

MarsMaz

Put the scanner in. There's no check engine. Not sure what else to test for.

When Ignition is on i noticed there is a buzzing from near the starter. Like a miiiiiiiiiiii.

I don't know

Jasim Waheed

Hi Members, I have had my rx8 for about a year or so and i have been trying to resolve a problem and haven't succeeded. I will share the experience by sharing the scenarios with audience:

Scenario 1:
During a normal drive, the car drives smoothly and picks up the acceleration in a perfect way till it reaches rpm 5k. If you keep pushing the throttle, the moment it reaches rpm 5k, the engine will stop running freely and it feels that there is some force that will not go it beyond 5k.

Scenario 2:
During a normal drive at a normal throttle and no extra pushing of accelerator, the car will accelerate and go beyond 5k, 6k 6.5k rpm. But the moment you push the accelerator, there is something which blocks the acceleration.

Scenario 3:
At high speed, rpm 5000 .. top gear .. if accelerated more, rpm wont go beyond 5k

Previous Checks that I have run are:
1) Injectors cleaned
2) Fuel Pump cleaned
3) SSV valve cleaned

The application for code scanning together with OBDII shows that the secondary air system is dependent on outside atmosphere or is off. I can't figure this out why it is off and why there is no error being reported through check engine light.

gwilliams6

Engine Power Loss
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Jasim, please start your own topic.

MarsMaz: the miiiiiiii buzzing is normal, or at least mine does the same.
While you have the OBD scanner plugged in, can you see what numbers its showing for ECT (coolant temp), airflow, LTFT, STFT, throttle position, while it's running.

MarsMaz

Sorry just learning to use obd. Found error po300 and 302.

Will check those temps. Gotta charge battery again though

MarsMaz

Thanks for keeping up. I know 302 has to do with rear rotor. Will check coils etc