How to drive rx8 in hot weather
#151
#152
Update : Checked the fuel pump. It was giving 51PSI Fuel pressure. Filter was little choked and i cleaned it up. Replaced fuel pump ( Found one in a wreckage) . Now fuel pressure reading is 57PSI. Is it normal pressure now? My question is what is the standard fuel pressure of Series 1 RX8?
Last edited by RX8 pearl red; 04-20-2015 at 07:25 AM.
#154
Thanks for the confirmation Bro. I did the brake stomping procedure successfully today as for the first time Oil pressure guage moved. Lets hope the flashing CEL wont appear again.. If it does then im moving towards BHR ignition as they can handle the load on high revs
#160
Well Aston, i thought i did the ECU reset but i think i was wrong. Yesterday i was sure that the ECU resetted as Oil pressure guage moved. Fingers crossed. IF CEL comes up again, then its time for BHR ignition
#161
I'm not sure resetting the NVRAM (which is I believe what the 20 brake stomps resets) will clear DTCs. You need to interface with the ECU via the OBD-II port located above the clutch pedal and below the steering wheel through some kind of OBD-II code reader.
#162
Also the guy from which i bought New Plugs, coils and leads told me that i must have to do the brake stomp procedure after installing new ignition so that the flashing CEL won't appear again.
One more important thing, The new Plugs which i got got had very less gap, so i gaped them according to Mazda specs i.e 1.15mm for both leading and trailing Plugs which i believe also made the difference. But still waiting for the flashing CEL to appear again.lol
Last edited by RX8 pearl red; 04-25-2015 at 02:22 AM.
#163
I experienced 1 or 2 misfires within 2 weeks prior to finally replacing my ignition with BHR, and, after replacing it, I've yet to experience a misfire again. A strong ignition system should not see any misfires unless there's something wrong with some the components.
#164
I experienced 1 or 2 misfires within 2 weeks prior to finally replacing my ignition with BHR, and, after replacing it, I've yet to experience a misfire again. A strong ignition system should not see any misfires unless there's something wrong with some the components.
#165
The BHR kit is more a performance upgrade than a functionality upgrade. While some may argue that the stronger, hotter spark is better -- which is true -- the truth is that it is not necessary for problem-free engine operation.
I find the added benefits of the BHR coils to be worth the price tag, but to each their own. If you are willing to spend the extra $200 over an OEM system, I think it's well worth the price.
I find the added benefits of the BHR coils to be worth the price tag, but to each their own. If you are willing to spend the extra $200 over an OEM system, I think it's well worth the price.
#166
The BHR kit is more a performance upgrade than a functionality upgrade. While some may argue that the stronger, hotter spark is better -- which is true -- the truth is that it is not necessary for problem-free engine operation.
I find the added benefits of the BHR coils to be worth the price tag, but to each their own. If you are willing to spend the extra $200 over an OEM system, I think it's well worth the price.
I find the added benefits of the BHR coils to be worth the price tag, but to each their own. If you are willing to spend the extra $200 over an OEM system, I think it's well worth the price.
#167
Okay now, Now i am having a little problem which i though i share with you guys.
Today, i drove my car and notice a continuous ticking/Clicking sound COMING FROM FRONT when car is moving ( Note : No sound at idle. Me and mechanic ran few tests and here they are:
1) We started the car and when car starts to move, ticking/clicking started at a continuous theme and when car starts to slows down that clicking/ticking stopped.
2) We put the car in neutral while driving and the sound was still there and again in neutral we stopped the car gradually and the sound went away at stationary position.
So we though, maybe its coming from Engine or gear.
3) While driving we shut the engine off and also depressed the clutch but that clicking/Ticking was still coming from front and when car starts to rest, again sound disappeared.
So now, even when the engine is off and transmission is free, the noise the coming from front and mechanic told me that it could be the bearing which can some time makes Cliking/ticking continuous sound when they start to go bad. The car is rear wheel as you all know so only the tires at front are moving only when car is shut off during driving. Is my mechanic diagnosing it well? if not then what else would be the cause of that strange clicking/ticking sound?
We ruled out exhaust leak due the test mode we did with the car shutoff at 30 miles. and i believe the only moving parts with engine off at the front is tires and bearings.
Any suggestion guys?
Today, i drove my car and notice a continuous ticking/Clicking sound COMING FROM FRONT when car is moving ( Note : No sound at idle. Me and mechanic ran few tests and here they are:
1) We started the car and when car starts to move, ticking/clicking started at a continuous theme and when car starts to slows down that clicking/ticking stopped.
2) We put the car in neutral while driving and the sound was still there and again in neutral we stopped the car gradually and the sound went away at stationary position.
So we though, maybe its coming from Engine or gear.
3) While driving we shut the engine off and also depressed the clutch but that clicking/Ticking was still coming from front and when car starts to rest, again sound disappeared.
So now, even when the engine is off and transmission is free, the noise the coming from front and mechanic told me that it could be the bearing which can some time makes Cliking/ticking continuous sound when they start to go bad. The car is rear wheel as you all know so only the tires at front are moving only when car is shut off during driving. Is my mechanic diagnosing it well? if not then what else would be the cause of that strange clicking/ticking sound?
We ruled out exhaust leak due the test mode we did with the car shutoff at 30 miles. and i believe the only moving parts with engine off at the front is tires and bearings.
Any suggestion guys?
Last edited by RX8 pearl red; 04-27-2015 at 10:45 AM.
#169
is there a DIY for re-torquing ? Sorry , i am not familiar with this term and how to do it. Can you explain this bit for me please
Last edited by RX8 pearl red; 04-27-2015 at 10:51 AM.
#170
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Ask 9krpmrx8 and 200.mph. I think both of them have written DIYs for torquing bolts.
Just get a torque wrench, set it to the right torque setting, tighten the bolts till the torque wrench signals torque is reached. If it triggers immediately without movement, jack up the car and loosen the wheel, ensure a re-center, and re-torque evenly in a star shaped pattern.
Just get a torque wrench, set it to the right torque setting, tighten the bolts till the torque wrench signals torque is reached. If it triggers immediately without movement, jack up the car and loosen the wheel, ensure a re-center, and re-torque evenly in a star shaped pattern.
#171
Ask 9krpmrx8 and 200.mph. I think both of them have written DIYs for torquing bolts.
Just get a torque wrench, set it to the right torque setting, tighten the bolts till the torque wrench signals torque is reached. If it triggers immediately without movement, jack up the car and loosen the wheel, ensure a re-center, and re-torque evenly in a star shaped pattern.
Just get a torque wrench, set it to the right torque setting, tighten the bolts till the torque wrench signals torque is reached. If it triggers immediately without movement, jack up the car and loosen the wheel, ensure a re-center, and re-torque evenly in a star shaped pattern.
#172
One more thing, I have a 5 speed Manual RX8. it took 4 liters of gear oil till it starts to dribble. How to correctly know that i didn't overfill, as after 3.5 liters, it still did not dribble from the hole.
Secondly, My shifting is a little harder while using GL5 but the thump noise from the back is gone. Should i switch to GL4 for gear and keep the Diff oil to GL5?
Secondly, My shifting is a little harder while using GL5 but the thump noise from the back is gone. Should i switch to GL4 for gear and keep the Diff oil to GL5?
#173
UPDATE : Did the re-torquing on all four wheels. Problems remains the same. To be more clear the sound is a regular " Crrrrrrrrrrrrrr" during driving slow or fast ( same sound speed) even when the engine is shut off during mobility. Need help guys. I also checked the safety plates behind the wheels whether they are making this sound but safety plates are not touching brake plates.
#174
So no ideas guys???? when engine is shut, then the only moving parts in front are tires and bearings. Can Bearing make that "Crrrrrrrrr" or you can say continuous fast clicking Sound regularly when they start to go bad?