DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)
04-09-2008, 11:02 AM
#1
DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)
Updated : 08/10/2009
- Another Q&A added to the list.
- Updated some information.
Updated : 02/19/2012
- Fixed some outdated link
- Some wording.
Updated : 06/28/2013
- minor update to some information
Ok, Took a while, its done. Pretty cool.
Q&A :
1.What is *Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner" ?
- This is the official *Mazda* Cleaner for use in Rotary Engines.
2. How much does it cost ?
- 20-ish Dollars Plus shipping.
3. How many times can I use it ?
- You can clean at least 2 engines with it. Or clean ur engine *twice*
4. Where can I get it ?
- All Mazda dealer sells it. Just ask them for Zoom Zoom Cleaner, or part number # 0000-77-A86
5. What the hell is this DIY all about ?
- This DIY is to show you, how to *clean* your engine using Mazda's Engine Cleaner.
- There are other cleaners out there, for example, Seafoam or BG44K, of which, some people swear that it works the same as Mazda's cleaner if not better, I never tried them though.
6. What does the *Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner* package include ?
- See the first attached picture from the left.
Just in case that you're *blind*, the package includes the box (lol), a tiny small white tube, the cleaner itself, and some useless warning stickers (not shown, its in the box)
7. Why would I wanna do this? Do I really need it ?
- Remember, THIS IS YOUR LAST OPTION TO DO BEFORE YOU SAY OK SCREW IT JUST GET A NEW ENGINE!!! it might/might not help you, I seen some engines got over 1 kPa of compression back (which is pretty significant), some nothing at all. one thing I noticed is the stuff works ONLY if the part itself is HOT, if it's cold/left for too long, it doesn't do anything/carbon hardens again. I tried it when I break my engine apart, bake the part hot to 350f, soak it into a bowl of cleaner, while the other rotor was left at room temp. The hot one works much better. YMMV of course.
8. Are there any side effects from doing this ?
- Not that Im aware of, some said it might affect the life of your Catalyst Converter cuz Some of the Juice WILL go out from the Exhaust ports, then when you start the engine it might create a BBQ effect. Mazda said by disconnecting the Secondary Air injection plug, it will not the CAT converter much. but I mean hey, biggest reason of CAT failure came from lack of proper maintenance anyway ... (read: IGNITION)
9. Im too stupid/dont have the time to do this, what are my options ?
- You can always do it at a Mazda dealer, but you better be sure that the dealer you're visiting is a *good* one not some ********, plus prepare them to charge you at least 2 hours of labor.
- You can ALWAYS pay some garage to do it, just ask them to follow the instructions. Most people gonna tell you you are nuts.
- Ask another Rx8club.com member to help (probably cost less the other 2 option)
10. What do I need to get this *Done* ?
- Whatever tools you need to take the Airbox/Intake away(not required, but it will make life a lot easier)
- 2-3 hours of ur time depends on how *skillful* you're
- A person OTHER THAN YOURSELF to help you to *start* the engine in the middle of the process! You SHOULD NOT do this cleaning alone !
- A Bottle of the Zoom Zoom Power Cleaner
- Some vacuum hose, 6mm should be fine. its not exactly required but it makes life much easier.
- Some common sense.
- A Strong Battery. Since you will be cranking your engine for almost a minute in total, it WILL put a lot of stress on your battery. Or even better, a Charger to charge your battery Before and AFTER the work.
- compression tester, use to determine if the cleaning works. I use Mazda Compression Tester so it tells me exactly what the numbers are. if you use a Piston, you will almost not be able to tell unless things are significant.
11. This does NOT apply to 09+ S2 Engines. Mazda removed the nipple from the LIM so you CANNOT do it on 09+ engines. When I get a chance to check out a S2 car, I will see if there are other options.
12. Should I just spray this thing into my engine, then let it sit overnight so it will eat all my Carbon deposit !!!! ????
- Nope, DO NOT do that,
- this z00m z00m cleaner will work ONLY when your engine is still warm/hot. if you let it sit overnight, you are really just wasting your time and $$$.
One more thing I want to remind all of you, when you spray this thing into your engine, it "practically" will "eat" everything in there, even engine oil. Mazda's official way is --- they ask you to let the engine suck some oil in before you start the engine AND ask dealer to plug the Mazda IDS in and TURN the MOP/OMP rate to 60(which is the MAX). so when the car start the engine will get more oil for lubrication.(stock is 3 at idle). So if you're going to do this yourself, you might want to add more Premix into your Gas. or prepare to add some oil into the nipple, cuz most of you guys have no access to Mazda IDS.
Notice: Im providing this DIY to you *AS IS* with no warranty, Im not responsible for any damages. Do this cleaning at your own risk !
- Another Q&A added to the list.
- Updated some information.
Updated : 02/19/2012
- Fixed some outdated link
- Some wording.
Updated : 06/28/2013
- minor update to some information
Ok, Took a while, its done. Pretty cool.
Q&A :
1.What is *Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner" ?
- This is the official *Mazda* Cleaner for use in Rotary Engines.
2. How much does it cost ?
- 20-ish Dollars Plus shipping.
3. How many times can I use it ?
- You can clean at least 2 engines with it. Or clean ur engine *twice*
4. Where can I get it ?
- All Mazda dealer sells it. Just ask them for Zoom Zoom Cleaner, or part number # 0000-77-A86
5. What the hell is this DIY all about ?
- This DIY is to show you, how to *clean* your engine using Mazda's Engine Cleaner.
- There are other cleaners out there, for example, Seafoam or BG44K, of which, some people swear that it works the same as Mazda's cleaner if not better, I never tried them though.
6. What does the *Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner* package include ?
- See the first attached picture from the left.
Just in case that you're *blind*, the package includes the box (lol), a tiny small white tube, the cleaner itself, and some useless warning stickers (not shown, its in the box)
7. Why would I wanna do this? Do I really need it ?
- Remember, THIS IS YOUR LAST OPTION TO DO BEFORE YOU SAY OK SCREW IT JUST GET A NEW ENGINE!!! it might/might not help you, I seen some engines got over 1 kPa of compression back (which is pretty significant), some nothing at all. one thing I noticed is the stuff works ONLY if the part itself is HOT, if it's cold/left for too long, it doesn't do anything/carbon hardens again. I tried it when I break my engine apart, bake the part hot to 350f, soak it into a bowl of cleaner, while the other rotor was left at room temp. The hot one works much better. YMMV of course.
8. Are there any side effects from doing this ?
- Not that Im aware of, some said it might affect the life of your Catalyst Converter cuz Some of the Juice WILL go out from the Exhaust ports, then when you start the engine it might create a BBQ effect. Mazda said by disconnecting the Secondary Air injection plug, it will not the CAT converter much. but I mean hey, biggest reason of CAT failure came from lack of proper maintenance anyway ... (read: IGNITION)
9. Im too stupid/dont have the time to do this, what are my options ?
- You can always do it at a Mazda dealer, but you better be sure that the dealer you're visiting is a *good* one not some ********, plus prepare them to charge you at least 2 hours of labor.
- You can ALWAYS pay some garage to do it, just ask them to follow the instructions. Most people gonna tell you you are nuts.
- Ask another Rx8club.com member to help (probably cost less the other 2 option)
10. What do I need to get this *Done* ?
- Whatever tools you need to take the Airbox/Intake away(not required, but it will make life a lot easier)
- 2-3 hours of ur time depends on how *skillful* you're
- A person OTHER THAN YOURSELF to help you to *start* the engine in the middle of the process! You SHOULD NOT do this cleaning alone !
- A Bottle of the Zoom Zoom Power Cleaner
- Some vacuum hose, 6mm should be fine. its not exactly required but it makes life much easier.
- Some common sense.
- A Strong Battery. Since you will be cranking your engine for almost a minute in total, it WILL put a lot of stress on your battery. Or even better, a Charger to charge your battery Before and AFTER the work.
- compression tester, use to determine if the cleaning works. I use Mazda Compression Tester so it tells me exactly what the numbers are. if you use a Piston, you will almost not be able to tell unless things are significant.
11. This does NOT apply to 09+ S2 Engines. Mazda removed the nipple from the LIM so you CANNOT do it on 09+ engines. When I get a chance to check out a S2 car, I will see if there are other options.
12. Should I just spray this thing into my engine, then let it sit overnight so it will eat all my Carbon deposit !!!! ????
- Nope, DO NOT do that,
- this z00m z00m cleaner will work ONLY when your engine is still warm/hot. if you let it sit overnight, you are really just wasting your time and $$$.
One more thing I want to remind all of you, when you spray this thing into your engine, it "practically" will "eat" everything in there, even engine oil. Mazda's official way is --- they ask you to let the engine suck some oil in before you start the engine AND ask dealer to plug the Mazda IDS in and TURN the MOP/OMP rate to 60(which is the MAX). so when the car start the engine will get more oil for lubrication.(stock is 3 at idle). So if you're going to do this yourself, you might want to add more Premix into your Gas. or prepare to add some oil into the nipple, cuz most of you guys have no access to Mazda IDS.
Notice: Im providing this DIY to you *AS IS* with no warranty, Im not responsible for any damages. Do this cleaning at your own risk !
Last edited by nycgps; 06-27-2013 at 10:07 PM.
04-09-2008, 11:03 AM
#2
1. You have to buy the Cleaner itself (Duh)
2. For first timers(most people), need at least 2 hours. including some fxcked up time.
3. Engine must be warm up(read:HOT) before cleaning, so what you can do it give it a spin around the block for 10-15 minutes till it warms up, then push it HARD for another 5 minutes or so, Cuz depends on ur location the engine will cool off and the cleaning might not be as effective.
In picture one, You see that the "Temp" gauge is at about 1/2 way. but dont not be fooled by this ! Drive it around for another 15 minutes or so. Because the gauge will reach middle when your coolant is about 150f. which is NOT HOT ENOUGH. So after it reach 1/2 way, drive it for another 15 minutes in slow traffic. remember this
(Forget about Gauges on the right, those are mine)
4. Pop the darn hood !
5. See Picture 2. In the TSB, it tells you to disconnect the connector on the *left* only, they called this "Secondary Air injection pump," remove it so this process will not kill your CAT converter as easy.
6. Step, You should disconnect the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor, it is located right by the big main pulley, see picture #4, I took picture #3 from the bottom of the car.
7. You should be able to reach the Eccentric Shaft position sensor connector from the top of the engine without removing the intake box. See pic #4. becareful don't kill the locking tab. if the connector is covered in mud/crap(99% of the time), spray it with some contact cleaner first, clean, then remove it slowly.
OPTIONAL STEP : do a compression test while the engine is hot, write it down. Mazda official tester can tell you each rotor face's reading. Write them down. after you are done, do it again to see if the cleaning helps.
2. For first timers(most people), need at least 2 hours. including some fxcked up time.
3. Engine must be warm up(read:HOT) before cleaning, so what you can do it give it a spin around the block for 10-15 minutes till it warms up, then push it HARD for another 5 minutes or so, Cuz depends on ur location the engine will cool off and the cleaning might not be as effective.
In picture one, You see that the "Temp" gauge is at about 1/2 way. but dont not be fooled by this ! Drive it around for another 15 minutes or so. Because the gauge will reach middle when your coolant is about 150f. which is NOT HOT ENOUGH. So after it reach 1/2 way, drive it for another 15 minutes in slow traffic. remember this
(Forget about Gauges on the right, those are mine)
4. Pop the darn hood !
5. See Picture 2. In the TSB, it tells you to disconnect the connector on the *left* only, they called this "Secondary Air injection pump," remove it so this process will not kill your CAT converter as easy.
6. Step, You should disconnect the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor, it is located right by the big main pulley, see picture #4, I took picture #3 from the bottom of the car.
7. You should be able to reach the Eccentric Shaft position sensor connector from the top of the engine without removing the intake box. See pic #4. becareful don't kill the locking tab. if the connector is covered in mud/crap(99% of the time), spray it with some contact cleaner first, clean, then remove it slowly.
OPTIONAL STEP : do a compression test while the engine is hot, write it down. Mazda official tester can tell you each rotor face's reading. Write them down. after you are done, do it again to see if the cleaning helps.
Last edited by nycgps; 06-27-2013 at 10:29 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Kamal El (11-04-2017)
04-09-2008, 11:03 AM
#3
8. Now, go to the Left side, right next to the Washer Fluid Bottle. There is 2 nipple sticking out covered with Black Plastic caps. See picture 1.
9. Clearer picture of what the nipple looks like, Picture 2.
10. To have better access, you might want to remove the washer fluid bottle for a while. to give you more *working* space. You need to take 2 10mm bolt out. See Picture 3.
11. In Picture 4, This is what the Nipple look like after the plastic Cap is *Off*
12. Get Vacuum hose, 6mm is enough to fit into the nipple nice and tight, on the zoom zoom cleaner set, wrap one end of the clear hose with enough electrical tape, so when you stick it into the vacuum hose it will not loose. hold the can of cleaner @ upright position and ready to spray.
13. Hold on to the cleaner DONT spray it yet, tell someone to *start/crank* the engine for you, as soon as he/she starts the engine(The engine will not start so dont worry, because you pull the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor connector off earlier remeber?) start spraying the cleaner for about 10 to 15 seconds, after 10-15 seconds, YELL at the person so he/she stops cranking the engine, at the same time stop spraying the cleaner.
Notice: be sure that the tube its in the nipple. Cuz if it falls out then those cleaner gonna be all over your engine bay.
14. After u stop, wait at least a minute before you repeat Step 13 one more time.
15. Close the nipple, do the same thing to the other nipple.
16. After everything is done. Let it sit for a least an hour something. Now its a good time to put everything back together.
9. Clearer picture of what the nipple looks like, Picture 2.
10. To have better access, you might want to remove the washer fluid bottle for a while. to give you more *working* space. You need to take 2 10mm bolt out. See Picture 3.
11. In Picture 4, This is what the Nipple look like after the plastic Cap is *Off*
12. Get Vacuum hose, 6mm is enough to fit into the nipple nice and tight, on the zoom zoom cleaner set, wrap one end of the clear hose with enough electrical tape, so when you stick it into the vacuum hose it will not loose. hold the can of cleaner @ upright position and ready to spray.
13. Hold on to the cleaner DONT spray it yet, tell someone to *start/crank* the engine for you, as soon as he/she starts the engine(The engine will not start so dont worry, because you pull the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor connector off earlier remeber?) start spraying the cleaner for about 10 to 15 seconds, after 10-15 seconds, YELL at the person so he/she stops cranking the engine, at the same time stop spraying the cleaner.
Notice: be sure that the tube its in the nipple. Cuz if it falls out then those cleaner gonna be all over your engine bay.
14. After u stop, wait at least a minute before you repeat Step 13 one more time.
15. Close the nipple, do the same thing to the other nipple.
16. After everything is done. Let it sit for a least an hour something. Now its a good time to put everything back together.
Last edited by nycgps; 06-27-2013 at 09:56 PM.
04-09-2008, 11:04 AM
#4
17. After its been there for an hour, remember to put everything back to the way it was, ESPECIALLY the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor connector. without it, the ecu will NOT inject any gas nor the plugs will fire, and you gonna feel stupid about yourself.
18. Make sure the are is clear, because depend on how bad it is, it might smokes pretty bad. if you have access to Mazda IDS like I do, after the engine starts make sure you do the MOP pos # to 60 for 15 mins, well most of you guys don't, so you should either premix heavily, and or/ just give it another 1/8 cup of premix/engine oil into both ports before you start.
19. Stay in Neutral, rev the car to around 1.5K till it warms up, More smoke comes out.
20. After its back to Normal Operating Temp. Give a few quick Full throttle Rev to 6K rpm or so. Rev it to Redline if you want to, thats what I did. (the TSB saids rev it 20 times up to 6 K, but I like it to Redline more, its ur choice)
21. Let it go back to idle.
22. Turn it off.
23. You're Done Go ZooM zOOm all you want ! (And prepare for neighbor's complain about the funny smell)
Optional : Do a compression test, I use Official Mazda Compression Tester. most people don't have it (expensive) and see if it works for you(or your friend)
18. Make sure the are is clear, because depend on how bad it is, it might smokes pretty bad. if you have access to Mazda IDS like I do, after the engine starts make sure you do the MOP pos # to 60 for 15 mins, well most of you guys don't, so you should either premix heavily, and or/ just give it another 1/8 cup of premix/engine oil into both ports before you start.
19. Stay in Neutral, rev the car to around 1.5K till it warms up, More smoke comes out.
20. After its back to Normal Operating Temp. Give a few quick Full throttle Rev to 6K rpm or so. Rev it to Redline if you want to, thats what I did. (the TSB saids rev it 20 times up to 6 K, but I like it to Redline more, its ur choice)
21. Let it go back to idle.
22. Turn it off.
23. You're Done
Go ZooM zOOm all you want ! (And prepare for neighbor's complain about the funny smell)Optional : Do a compression test, I use Official Mazda Compression Tester. most people don't have it (expensive) and see if it works for you(or your friend)
Last edited by nycgps; 06-27-2013 at 10:06 PM.
04-09-2008, 11:21 AM
#6
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
you think I"m actually going to follow YOUR instructions?! haha, just messin' with ya bro.
Can't wait to see how this goes.
Can't wait to see how this goes.
04-09-2008, 06:25 PM
#10
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
update?
04-09-2008, 08:07 PM
#12
Certified Mazda Tech
Hey,
I noticed that at least one person has bought the decarbonization engine cleaner from mazda.
I know when I use the stuff at work the only directions are the one on the can....which arent the directions mazda wants you to use.
Have you guys found the official mazda instructions as per the TSB or would you like me to post them?
meh I'll just post them:
A - CARBON REMOVAL PROCEDURE
WARNING:
PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN USING ENGINE CLEANER.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND GLOVES WHEN HANDLING.
ENGINE CLEANER IS FLAMMABLE.
NOTE: An assistant may be necessary while performing this procedure.
Approximately half a can of engine cleaner will be used per vehicle during this repair.
1. Start engine and warm to operating temperature. Turn engine off.
2. Cleaner kit comes with engine cleaner (A) and engine cleaner spray hose (B).
3. Disconnect Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (ESPS) B1-27 connector.
NOTE: This will cut fuel injection and spark while performing the procedure.
4. Disconnect the secondary air injection pump connector B1-04.
5. Remove the front vacuum plug or vacuum hose from the passenger side of the lower intake manifold.
NOTE: 2006 model year and later vehicles have vacuum hoses attached to these ports for the PCV system. Disconnect these hoses from the lower intake manifold ports one at a time when performing this procedure. These hoses do not need to be plugged once disconnected.
CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to service both vacuum ports at the same time. Perform procedure for front port, then perform procedure for rear port.
6. Insert engine cleaner spray hose (B) into front port nipple (C).
7. Attach engine cleaner spray hose to engine cleaner spray can nozzle.
8. Have an assistant crank the engine. While cranking the engine, simultaneously depress the spray nozzle of the engine cleaner for a duration of 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, stop spraying and cranking at the same time. DO NOT depress accelerator pedal while cranking.
9. Wait a minimum of 30 seconds and repeat STEP 6 for the same port.
10. Reconnect vacuum hose or install vacuum plug to front nipple.
11. Repeat STEPS 5-10 for rear nipple.
12. Allow the engine cleaner to soak for at least 1 hour before starting engine.
13. Connect ESPS connector B1-27.
14. Attempt to start engine without depressing accelerator pedal.
15. Keep engine running between 1500-2000 RPM until engine speed has stabilized. Maintain this engine speed until all smoke has dissipated and / or engine has come to full operating temperature.
CAUTION: Do not race the engine during warm-up, this may cause catalyst damage.
16. Rev engine from idle speed up to 6,000 RPM, then release throttle immediately until RPM returns to idle speed.
17. Repeat 20 times with vehicle in Park (AT) or neutral (MT).
18-23. Cant be done outside of dealer, concerns using the IDS Computer System, not necessary anyway. We activate the OMP to 60% for a decent amount of time to help provide extra lube to the chambers since theyll be super dry from the cleaning process. To recreate this at home just connect a vac hose from both of the LIM nipples into a cup of fresh oil and let the engine vac. suck the oil down into the engine
24. Turn engine off.
25. Connect the secondary air injection pump connector B1-04.
huzzah!
BTW mazda part # IIRC is 5555-08-008A, but i have to double check tomorrow.
kevin.
I noticed that at least one person has bought the decarbonization engine cleaner from mazda.
I know when I use the stuff at work the only directions are the one on the can....which arent the directions mazda wants you to use.
Have you guys found the official mazda instructions as per the TSB or would you like me to post them?
meh I'll just post them:
A - CARBON REMOVAL PROCEDURE
WARNING:
PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN USING ENGINE CLEANER.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND GLOVES WHEN HANDLING.
ENGINE CLEANER IS FLAMMABLE.
NOTE: An assistant may be necessary while performing this procedure.
Approximately half a can of engine cleaner will be used per vehicle during this repair.
1. Start engine and warm to operating temperature. Turn engine off.
2. Cleaner kit comes with engine cleaner (A) and engine cleaner spray hose (B).
3. Disconnect Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (ESPS) B1-27 connector.
NOTE: This will cut fuel injection and spark while performing the procedure.
4. Disconnect the secondary air injection pump connector B1-04.
5. Remove the front vacuum plug or vacuum hose from the passenger side of the lower intake manifold.
NOTE: 2006 model year and later vehicles have vacuum hoses attached to these ports for the PCV system. Disconnect these hoses from the lower intake manifold ports one at a time when performing this procedure. These hoses do not need to be plugged once disconnected.
CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to service both vacuum ports at the same time. Perform procedure for front port, then perform procedure for rear port.
6. Insert engine cleaner spray hose (B) into front port nipple (C).
7. Attach engine cleaner spray hose to engine cleaner spray can nozzle.
8. Have an assistant crank the engine. While cranking the engine, simultaneously depress the spray nozzle of the engine cleaner for a duration of 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, stop spraying and cranking at the same time. DO NOT depress accelerator pedal while cranking.
9. Wait a minimum of 30 seconds and repeat STEP 6 for the same port.
10. Reconnect vacuum hose or install vacuum plug to front nipple.
11. Repeat STEPS 5-10 for rear nipple.
12. Allow the engine cleaner to soak for at least 1 hour before starting engine.
13. Connect ESPS connector B1-27.
14. Attempt to start engine without depressing accelerator pedal.
15. Keep engine running between 1500-2000 RPM until engine speed has stabilized. Maintain this engine speed until all smoke has dissipated and / or engine has come to full operating temperature.
CAUTION: Do not race the engine during warm-up, this may cause catalyst damage.
16. Rev engine from idle speed up to 6,000 RPM, then release throttle immediately until RPM returns to idle speed.
17. Repeat 20 times with vehicle in Park (AT) or neutral (MT).
18-23. Cant be done outside of dealer, concerns using the IDS Computer System, not necessary anyway. We activate the OMP to 60% for a decent amount of time to help provide extra lube to the chambers since theyll be super dry from the cleaning process. To recreate this at home just connect a vac hose from both of the LIM nipples into a cup of fresh oil and let the engine vac. suck the oil down into the engine
24. Turn engine off.
25. Connect the secondary air injection pump connector B1-04.
huzzah!
BTW mazda part # IIRC is 5555-08-008A, but i have to double check tomorrow.
kevin.
04-10-2008, 12:01 PM
#15
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
nice DIY nycgps! I got stuck on step 3, my car doesn't seem to have those gauges on the right. 
04-10-2008, 05:06 PM
#21
Certified Mazda Tech
B) if people dont know where/what the items mentioned in the directions are...they probably shouldnt be spraying anything in their engine.
but hey I was just trying to help prevent you from retyping the mazda tsb, as you did....well except now its the "tsb: illustrated"
kevin.
04-10-2008, 05:41 PM
#22
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but picked up some seafoam from an auto parts store and there is no spraying mechanism included. It's just a bottle of liquid. Will I still be able to use this DIY or do I need to be able to spray the stuff?
