Whos ride is that?
03-06-2009, 03:02 PM
#1
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03-09-2009, 09:56 AM
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Al the EVO-R is a replica!
EVO-R CF front clip is the Burnout type I...
And also, what do you think about the Racing Beat springs too? For all weather driving...vs the ProKit
EVO-R CF front clip is the Burnout type I...
And also, what do you think about the Racing Beat springs too? For all weather driving...vs the ProKit
03-09-2009, 10:02 AM
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0.5 is ok i think...i dont want to work for City of Toronto without pay (snowplow)!
btw Al, this is the picture of the Burnout kit Type 1
03-09-2009, 10:07 AM
#13
Yes, all year round... that's why I've decided to put in the stock-intake possibly for good. I don't need my CAI filter another 1.2" closer to the ground.
Just look at today, it's exactly those SAME CONDITIONS that got in trouble last time. The night before was raining heavily hovering around 1C and 0C. This morning, it was -1, -2, with more winds and rain/slush. It's the PERFECT RECIPE for another layer of ice around the CAI at speeds.
So I took pre-emptive measures... drove to work via local roads instead so I can keep speeds below 70 kph (thus reducing windchill effect on the filter). Also by driving local, I can gaurantee I use only up to 3500 rpm in shifting to reduce air-suction for the engine. If I break down on the side, I could wait it out on a side street and go from there.
Thankfully, all these measures proved worthwhile as I turned out alright.
Just look at today, it's exactly those SAME CONDITIONS that got in trouble last time. The night before was raining heavily hovering around 1C and 0C. This morning, it was -1, -2, with more winds and rain/slush. It's the PERFECT RECIPE for another layer of ice around the CAI at speeds.
So I took pre-emptive measures... drove to work via local roads instead so I can keep speeds below 70 kph (thus reducing windchill effect on the filter). Also by driving local, I can gaurantee I use only up to 3500 rpm in shifting to reduce air-suction for the engine. If I break down on the side, I could wait it out on a side street and go from there.
Thankfully, all these measures proved worthwhile as I turned out alright.
Last edited by Footman; 03-09-2009 at 10:09 AM.
03-09-2009, 10:15 AM
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Man asking Andrew to shift below 3,500rpm is like asking Theif to stop talking about penix and coxk ... its a torture! lol
Yeah Andrew I think we have similar requirements for the mods....Dunno if racing beat ones will match the stock shocks tho? you got any research results?
Yeah Andrew I think we have similar requirements for the mods....Dunno if racing beat ones will match the stock shocks tho? you got any research results?
03-09-2009, 10:33 AM
#15
Racing beats on stock shocks... that I'm not sure. I know Kevin (Agent008) has Racing beat springs, but I don't know what shocks he's running on. He's the guy running the 18 x 7.5 Enkei rims purposely because they're lower weight. You can pm him for his opinion and feel so far.
As far as running Eibachs or Racing beat on stock shocks, Al did have a good point when I talked to him. Our cars are fairly new, so our stock shocks do have at least another 40,000 to 50,000 km before changing them. Though people say when you change springs you should change shocks too (makes logical and physical sense), if you do change them, what are you going to do with the stock shocks? You can't really sell them cause who would buy them? So they'll end up sitting there as an unused asset, and that's a waste of money in itself.
Being a daily driver that we both are, we wouldn't be able to appreciate the difference as much as someone that tracks their cars all the time; when you are running stock shocks.
From a financial point of view... Let's use some approximate values.
Changing just springs now --> $400 springs + $180 install + $100 alignment afterwards, then maybe 2 - 3 years later, another $180 install + $100 alignment + $500 new shocks. Grand total over 4 years = $1460.
Immediate cost = $680
Future cost = $780
Changing both now --> $400 springs + $180 install + $100 alignment + $500 new shocks. Grand total over 4 years = $1180
Immediate cost = $1180.
Future cost = $0.
From the time-value of money; money today is worth more than money tomorrow, so by going the first route, you spend $500 LESS and you get to fully utilize an asset (stock shocks) instead of wasting it and letting it sit. The $500 you have today, if you are really good with money, perhaps you can turn that into $780 over the next 2 - 3 years via stocks, gambling, or whatever, so when you need that money down the road for the inevitable shock change, it's there!
It really depends on what you want. If you want premium performance up front right now, then you're going to change the shocks at the same time as the springs. For me, I'm going with the more economical route
As far as running Eibachs or Racing beat on stock shocks, Al did have a good point when I talked to him. Our cars are fairly new, so our stock shocks do have at least another 40,000 to 50,000 km before changing them. Though people say when you change springs you should change shocks too (makes logical and physical sense), if you do change them, what are you going to do with the stock shocks? You can't really sell them cause who would buy them? So they'll end up sitting there as an unused asset, and that's a waste of money in itself.
Being a daily driver that we both are, we wouldn't be able to appreciate the difference as much as someone that tracks their cars all the time; when you are running stock shocks.
From a financial point of view... Let's use some approximate values.
Changing just springs now --> $400 springs + $180 install + $100 alignment afterwards, then maybe 2 - 3 years later, another $180 install + $100 alignment + $500 new shocks. Grand total over 4 years = $1460.
Immediate cost = $680
Future cost = $780
Changing both now --> $400 springs + $180 install + $100 alignment + $500 new shocks. Grand total over 4 years = $1180
Immediate cost = $1180.
Future cost = $0.
From the time-value of money; money today is worth more than money tomorrow, so by going the first route, you spend $500 LESS and you get to fully utilize an asset (stock shocks) instead of wasting it and letting it sit. The $500 you have today, if you are really good with money, perhaps you can turn that into $780 over the next 2 - 3 years via stocks, gambling, or whatever, so when you need that money down the road for the inevitable shock change, it's there!
It really depends on what you want. If you want premium performance up front right now, then you're going to change the shocks at the same time as the springs. For me, I'm going with the more economical route
03-09-2009, 10:38 AM
#16
Man asking Andrew to shift below 3,500rpm is like asking Theif to stop talking about penix and coxk ... its a torture! lol
Yeah Andrew I think we have similar requirements for the mods....Dunno if racing beat ones will match the stock shocks tho? you got any research results?
Yeah Andrew I think we have similar requirements for the mods....Dunno if racing beat ones will match the stock shocks tho? you got any research results?
Wahahaha.... THAT IS SO TRUE ON BOTH ACCOUNTS!!!!!
03-09-2009, 06:06 PM
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Man asking Andrew to shift below 3,500rpm is like asking Theif to stop talking about penix and coxk ... its a torture! lol
Yeah Andrew I think we have similar requirements for the mods....Dunno if racing beat ones will match the stock shocks tho? you got any research results?
Yeah Andrew I think we have similar requirements for the mods....Dunno if racing beat ones will match the stock shocks tho? you got any research results?
03-10-2009, 09:17 AM
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yeah... stock box. It's kinda weird. The VFAD has the tube that pulls through the front bumper to the stockbox.. and the ram air stops just at the front of the chasis... so you've got like a 3" gap between the ram and the openning in the stock box. I just left it like that for now... figure I'll fab something to seal the system off.
But.. yeah... she screams now.
But.. yeah... she screams now.
03-10-2009, 11:34 AM
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yeah... stock box. It's kinda weird. The VFAD has the tube that pulls through the front bumper to the stockbox.. and the ram air stops just at the front of the chasis... so you've got like a 3" gap between the ram and the openning in the stock box. I just left it like that for now... figure I'll fab something to seal the system off.
But.. yeah... she screams now.
But.. yeah... she screams now.
Did you also take out the whole secondary air duct system?
03-10-2009, 11:59 AM
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Emmm... and what do you mean by secondary air duct system?
03-10-2009, 12:38 PM
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