Hey guys,
I was so close to purchasing the EVO MR but after taking the test drive and working out my payments, I decided to keep the RX-8 and add some power. I just bought the kit, paid just a little over 3k. My first questions are, what do I need to purchase in addition, and how hard was the installation? Thanks!

dam, i would have gone for the MR..hahaha

Oh boy. U can go w/ just a boost gauge to be ultra cheap, but for instance u'll probably want a boost controller, BOV, oil catch can, possibly a wideband... The list could go one for a while, but it all really just comes back to what u feel is needed first.

searchidy search search

how hard was the installation? !
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=52584&highlight=greddy+turbo+install (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=52584&highlight=greddy+turbo+install)

Thanks Adrian :] How necessary is the Greddy oil pan? Which BOV do you recommend, and from where? I was looking at the Greddy Type S and some others.. .I want the one that sounds the best! Also, which boost controller do you guys recommend? Thanks everyone.

Oil pan is not necessary, just a nice to have.

BOV is just preferance. Just make sure to get a brand name, knockoffs tend to leak. Listen to a few sounds clips.

I like my Apexi AVC-R. It has gear based boost control and RPM based boost control. Two options I've found to really come in handy. But, if you want to go cheaper the HKS EVZ line is nice. Blitz makes a nice one too, but like all Blitz stuff it is way over priced.

Definitely get an O2 sensor. Innovate makes a great product.

Yea, the oil pan is not a must have, but if u don't get it u'll have to tap the oem pan. Not a big deal. And yes, I can attest to that, I have an innovate wideband and no problems so far. The AEM wideband is sposed to be the ish as well.

Thanks a lot for your help so far. Do you guys think my stage 1 clutch upgrade was enough? It has an overall 37% torque increase capacity, is this going to be enough?

Yea it's fine. Remember, the kit is made for a stock setup, so any kind of upgrade is sufficient.

definitely a BOV & wideband. i was running turbo with just BOV with everything else left stock for 6months or so without any problems.

most importantly, set aside $400 or so for a good tune & dyno so you can keep an eye on your progress.

i don't know which BOV to recommend. all i can say is that i have the RS and i like it alot. it's crisp & doesn't whistle. my friend has the HKS bov and it's pretty loud if you like to hear it.

installation looks easy & straightforward on paper but it was very challenging with just jackstands. with lift, anyone should be able to do it just fine.

i have stock clutch and it has yet slipped once, so your stage 1 should be more than enough. if you haven't installed it, get the flywheel upgrade too while you're at it.

I did my install on jack stands, and I didnt have any problems. Just take your time.
I would say that the hardest part was taking out the engine mount.

I don't think it would be that much easier on a lift. Its just a matter of do you like to swear lying down or standing up?

My friend owns a shop and a dyno about 5 miles away.. so I'm more than ready to get this bad boy on. We're going to start working Friday afternoon into Saturday.. how long did you take you guys to get everything done? Are the instructions nice and detailed, any images?

Does the Greddy Type S bov fit our car?

Does the Greddy Type S bov fit our car?

Yep. I had one on my car. Pulled it and put the HKS BOV on there now.

How does the HKS bov compared to the Greddy Type-S? Also, as far as the getting a boost gauge setup going.. has anyone had experience with putting the gauge where the entire ash tray is? I just took the ash tray out, looks like there is tons of room.. the only problem is that I have absolutely no clue how to get a line from there to the turbo it's self..

How does the HKS bov compared to the Greddy Type-S? Also, as far as the getting a boost gauge setup going.. has anyone had experience with putting the gauge where the entire ash tray is? I just took the ash tray out, looks like there is tons of room.. the only problem is that I have absolutely no clue how to get a line from there to the turbo it's self..

I like it better. More reliable, and the sound inside the car ins't as intrusive.

I almost had a 2 gauge pod in that exact area, from R Magic. I had it on order for like 3-4 months from them through Mazdaparts, but R Magic jerked us around the whole time, and finally wanted me to pull the gauges & send them over to Japan so they could drill the holes in the pod. I thought that was ridiculous. Gauges were 60 mm, just drill a freakin' 60 mm hole. Needless to say both Mazdaparts.com (Matt) & I were not too happy about this, and they wound up pulling them off their site. If you can custom fab a gauge pod, don't see why you couldn't put it in that area. just have to take apart the dash area. Not that hard, there are some DIY on this board on how to do that for the people putting in the IPOD adapters. Then trail the lines to the engine, and you should be good to go. Another poster had this setup on here, and actually has some pictures of it.

Can I see pictures of your boost gauge setup?

Can I see pictures of your boost gauge setup?

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid175/p838766c52339cd24afbc39cb30922c03/f375a635.jpg

My setup is an A Pillar gauge pod from Team Prototype/CF Type. I wouldn't recommend it. Fit is OK, but if you can, go for the PTP Motorsports 3 Gauge Pod. I waited but they were having some problems at the time getting. Couldn't wait any longer, and got the A pillar setup.

I thought about A pillar set up, but it would interfere w/ the airbags. So, I just went w/ the steering column. I felt that way punks on the road woudlnt know I had a turbo either ;).

Actually, the airbag is not located in the pillar, This was a "controversy" a while back. Some of the posters on the board pulled it apart & found the only thing behind the A pillar is a connection point for one of the strands of the side curtain airbag.

See post #5 in the thread

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=55898&highlight=Side+Airbags

Alright guys, so if I'm all about the sound.. what BOV do I buy? Is the Greddy Profec more reliable/better/recommended over the Apexi or HKS boost controllers?

Are the instructions nice and detailed, any images?
Yes, the instructions are detailed. Copy here. (http://www.cox-internet.com/adrian-1/images/RX8/greddy/rx8%20greddy%20kit%20instruction.pdf) Also, double check you have ALL the parts. I was only missing a few bolts that were easily found at home depot.
Other people were missing a intercooler pipe which would suck if your in the middle of installing it.

Alright guys, so if I'm all about the sound.. what BOV do I buy? Is the Greddy Profec more reliable/better/recommended over the Apexi or HKS boost controllers?

For BOV's you have the Greddy Type S, or Type RS, for HKS you have the Super Sequential unit. None of the turbo kits kits are running a super high amount of boost, so you don't need anywhere close to Type R or racing type BOV's.

Here is an explanation on why HKS is thought to be more reliable :

"The HKS Super Sequential Blow-Off Valve (SSQV) is a dual stage pull type relief valve. Unlike other blow off valves that are push type, the SSQV will not leak under high boost conditions nor under vacuum at idle. Being of a pull type valve structure, the SSQV can not physically leak under any level of boost because boost pressure also keeps the valve closed against its seat. The SSQV is actuated by pressure alterations only, not by the rate of pressure or vacuum in the line, which ensures a quick valve response and complete closure during idle. On typical blow-off valve designs, a large valve is utilized in order to accommodate high boost / high horsepower applications. However, these large valves tend to react slowly and require high activation pressure to open, therefore are not able to activate and prevent compressor surge at light-load conditions. On the other hand, smaller, fast reacting valves do not discharge the airflow capacity required for high horsepower applications and tend to creep open and leak as the boost pressure overpowers the spring on these push type valves. For maximum performance, the HKS SSQV incorporates both a small primary valve for ultra quick activation, along with a larger secondary valve for additional discharge capacity. The SSQV is engineered to initially open the small primary valve at light throttle and load conditions, then sequentially opens the secondary valve for additional relief capacity under high boost and load conditions."

For Boost Controllers, it depends on what you are looking for :

Greddy Profec Type S boost controller - Very basic, give you very simple control for your boost levels. If you are looking for basic settings, set & forget, then this is the unit for you. Get this vs. the B Spec II. It is easier to use, and my B Spec II wound up breaking.

HKS EVC boost controller - I found that it gives me more control, & is more precise than the Greddy unit I had. Also controls the overboosting problems I had with the Greddy (during cold, nightime weather). Top of the line company, good products. And they actually support their customers.

Apexi AVC-R - Good unit, I actually had this for the car originally, but is way overkill for the Greddy kit. Much more complex to setup than the other 2. If you have an experienced mechanic that knows his way around turbo cars & boost controllers then you are OK. My mechanic & I wound up having to buy a wiring diagram to figure some of the stuff out. Quality is high on the unit.

Oh, that' s interesting about the airbags. O well, to late to go back now. And be careful if u buy a BOV on ebay. I thought I was buying the RS, since it was labeled as an RS w/ no pic, and I actually received a Type R in the mail!! Yea, it's a better BOV, but like Fanman said, nobody I've heard of is running enough boost to need one. Since it was available, we welded is on anyway. It's huge, but it shares the same flange as the type RS and S anyway if I ever get sick of it. So, moral of the story, be careful on Ebay!

Alright thanks for the tip. How long does the installation of the entire kit take? I'm going to do it my self, a local performance import shop wanted 1,600 for the installation.

Just picked up 4 qt's of Royal Purple 5W20 motor oil (+ Napa oil filter), 2 gallons of Prestone coolant and a 12 oz bottle of Redline Water Wetter (Super Coolant) mixture.

Does my coolant quanity sound right? Do I need to pick up any other additive?

The HKS SSQV BOV is by far the loudest BOV I've heard. Its a real neck-snapper!

I buy the RP oil by the case now. 4 qts is barely enough for a single change, and its not enough if you tilt the car like I do to get more out. Also, you need spares for topping-off between oil changes.

Where do you order your RP from? I picked mine up at a local shop..

Pep Boys. they run a special on it sometimes. Might also want to switch to 5W-30 after you put the turbo in.

So jealous........I WANT BOOST!!! Be interested to see how your install go's, good luck!

Is this real? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDDY-TYPE-S-BLOW-OFF-VALVE-BOV-SUPER-SOUND-UNIVERSAL_W0QQitemZ8065693769QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ 1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

Is this real? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDDY-TYPE-S-BLOW-OFF-VALVE-BOV-SUPER-SOUND-UNIVERSAL_W0QQitemZ8065693769QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ 1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

That's hilarious. "Greddy Style" BOV. probably made out of cheap aluminum, will break in about 2 weeks.

na, they come broken stock. the txs ripoffs are pretty reliable, though.

Do you know if the Defi controller is required when using the Defi boost gauge? Is my warranty void if I had a turbo?

If you get the Defi link series gauge you will need the controller, but for the other Defi boost gauges you do not need the link controller.

Yes, it will void your warranty... but some of us are still able to get warranty service. You just have to find a mod friendly dealer in your area. Nonetheless, if you are having issues created by the turbo... no dealer is going to touch it under warranty.

Alright thanks for the tip. How long does the installation of the entire kit take? I'm going to do it my self, a local performance import shop wanted 1,600 for the installation.


You paid 20k+ for the car and another 3k for the turbo and your balking at 1600 for install? I don't get it. From your posts I've read here you seem somewhat inexperienced at this. I only hope for the sake of the car and new turbo kit that you re-think installing it yourself and have a qualified shop do it. Just my .02.

$1600 is pricey. Most people have gotten it installed for around $1000. but let a competent mechanic handle it. Don't just drop it off at Billy Bob's garage because they want to charge you less to install it. You will be able to find competent mechanics for $1000-$1600 (& bad ones that charge $1600 and still do a shit job).

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=1365117&postcount=7

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=89870

i could go back, but will not...

you are way way over your head......

beers :beer:

You paid 20k+ for the car and another 3k for the turbo and your balking at 1600 for install? I don't get it. From your posts I've read here you seem somewhat inexperienced at this. I only hope for the sake of the car and new turbo kit that you re-think installing it yourself and have a qualified shop do it. Just my .02.

I didn't ask for your opinion, nor do I care about it. I'm not doing the install alone.. seriously don't ever reply to my threads, you too swoope. I'm asking you nicely.

Anyways.

I didn't ask for your opinion, nor do I care about it.

But I gave it anyway. If you don't like adverse opinions then I suggest you stay the hell off the internet forums. :p:

I didn't ask for your opinion, nor do I care about it. I'm not doing the install alone.. seriously don't ever reply to my threads, you too swoope. I'm asking you nicely.

Anyways.

I think you will find this forum to be your greatest asset if you choose to mod your car. IMO, You really shouldn't be so fiesty. I don't believe either one of them intended any disrespect, they where just giving an opinion based on what they percieved your experience level to be. The Greddy kit is an invovled install. It is not easy, they are just trying to let you know this.

I personally say go for it though. You'll learn alot and as long as you have a good mechanical aptitude, with the help of this forum you should be able to figure it out. Worst case you damage the turbo or have to tow it to the shop to finish it.

hey bart,
no problem, i guess the several pm i have sent you in the past helping you out were forgotten....

good luck!!!

beers :beer:

hey bart,
no problem, i guess the several pm i have sent you in the past helping you out were forgotten....

good luck!!!

beers :beer:

I took your response the wrong way, I thought you were mocking me; I apoligize for that.

I took your response the wrong way, I thought you were mocking me; I apoligize for that.

cool,

bart being humble, excellent :mdrmed:

if i can help pm me some more...

beers :beer:

Stay away from the Greddy Type S BOV. They leak over time. I have had two of them and always revert to the stock bov since the Greddy leaks. Some buddies of my have the Type RS and it seems to do pretty well. The HKS SSQV is a great BOV. It can be loud but if you recirculate it you won't notice it. I would get a wideband O2 if you have the money for it. Never hurts to keep tabs on that A/F more so with a wankel.

Really? Are you talking about the REAL Greddy Type S that costs $200.. or the $30 knock off on eBay? I was thinking of going HKS anyways.

I don't mean to hijack this thread. But with the wankel putting out alot of heat as it is, and adding a turbo just adds to the fire, will the stock radiator be enough to cool that beast? Would a set of SPAL fans be needed?

The REAL Greddy Type S. Get the HKS its a much better bypass valve.

I don't mean to hijack this thread. But with the wankel putting out alot of heat as it is, and adding a turbo just adds to the fire, will the stock radiator be enough to cool that beast? Would a set of SPAL fans be needed?

I think you should be ok with stock as long as your not driving HARD for 3 hours but larger radiator will help 100%. fans would make a change but not as much .

I installed the emanage today, drilled a 1 inch hole behind the windshield washer container and the cable slipped right in. I'm running with the emanage turned on, without the turbo installed and it's running really rich.. feels great, smells terrible. Did anyone have trouble getting all the cables connected? I had to take out the ECU completely in order to get everything to fit right, I also drilled a hole in the ECU cover for the cable and everything snugged in perfectly. Where did you place the 3 small black boxes (resisters possibly) from the harness? I put mine on top of the ECU cooler.

You will get a burning smell after first installing the turbo, that'll go away after a week. Do you have an WBo2 to get your AFR?
I dremmeled my cover to get the harness to fit. I had the dongles under the ecu cooler.
Do you plan to purchase any gauges? I'm returning my car to stock and parting out EVERYTHING in about 2 weeks. I plan to trade the 8 in a few months.
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50529

Adrian,
I'll take lots of things off your hands - can you give me a list of what you'll have available?

I'm interested in your Defi gauges, your interceptor, those carbon fiber covers, and your front strut bar as well as a couple other things. PM me with the list and how much you're looking to get for each item.

I already have someone lined up for the Interceptor X.
I'll be un-installing everything next week. I'll send you the list and post it in the 4 sale section also.
I haven't priced anything yet, but I will after it's off the car.

Do you plan to purchase any gauges? I'm returning my car to stock and parting out EVERYTHING in about 2 weeks. I plan to trade the 8 in a few months.



dam that sucks. Sorry to see you move on. Don't want to get OT but what car are you planning on getting?

I need a "real 4-door" car and I'm leaning towards the BMW 330i.

Any chance of selling the Borla beforehand :wink2:

Raptor2k: PM'd you.

Bart: I just realized you said..... "I'm running with the emanage turned on, without the turbo installed and it's running really rich.. feels great, smells terrible."

I'd wait til the turbo is in before connecting the emanage. Just to be on the safe side... not sure what effects it'll have if connected without the turbo. In reality it shouldn't do anything until you go into boost but I'm not positive.

Anyone know where the stock bov is located?

Anyone know where the stock bov is located?

Stock BOV ? I don't believe there is any such thing. For the Greddy the kit does not come with a stock BOV. You have to weld a BOV mount w/ flange into the intake tube.

Are you serious? Isn't that kind of dangerous? What kind of spark plugs do you recommend btw?

Most kits Greddy sells are incomplete. Doesn't mean you should drive it around that way. It wouldn't be as bad if they sold it as an incomplete kit, but they sell it as if its plug and play.

It's not that much to have a shop weld it. It's pricier to actually buy the BOV and the flange. However, 5 psi aint gonna kill u or ur compressor if u drive it until u can get the pipe welded anyway. But, I agree. Greddy should notify or make it obvious instead of appearing to have a whole kit.

thats true

Couldn't finish again today, we got kind of tired and hungry so the decision was decided.. we went home for the night. Everything other than the installation of the remaining intercooler pipes and a few other small parts, including the re-installation of practically all that was removed! By the way, did you guys remove have to remove the front stabilzer bar? I'm going to try and work around it with the piping; if you did how hard was it to remove?

http://bartmatusiak.com/photos/greddy_turbo/DSC03585.jpg


Looking at the throttle body..
http://bartmatusiak.com/photos/greddy_turbo/DSC03565.jpg

http://bartmatusiak.com/photos/greddy_turbo/DSC03595.jpg


Exhaust manifold and turbo in place..
http://bartmatusiak.com/photos/greddy_turbo/DSC03598.jpg

http://bartmatusiak.com/photos/greddy_turbo/DSC03600.jpg


Rotor housings..
http://bartmatusiak.com/photos/greddy_turbo/DSC03577.jpg

http://bartmatusiak.com/photos/greddy_turbo/DSC03592.jpg

looks like you are missing a stud on the manifold to turbo flange....

nice job mad dog. bart he just save you one million dollars in work....

and great photos...

beers :beer:

Wow nice pictures!!

I have never seen the underbody of the 8, wow the renesis sits SUPER low, only thing seperating the motor from the road is the oil pan, wow... the renesis is really really small too
________
Vaporizer Wiki (http://vaporizerwiki.com)

looks like you are missing a stud on the manifold to turbo flange....

Yeah I know, we didn't put it on yet.

nice job mad dog. bart he just save you one million dollars in work....

and great photos...

beers :beer:

Thanks mate, yeah he's been a HUGE help. I had him most of the mounting while I was doing the intercooler, putting together the Airinix, e-manage installation, and removing the stock parts etc..

Wow nice pictures!!

I have never seen the underbody of the 8, wow the renesis sits SUPER low, only thing seperating the motor from the road is the oil pan, wow... the renesis is really really small too

Thanks again, yeah I have a bunch of more pictures that I'll post after everything is done. I'm dieng to get on the road! Oh and if you're wondering why the RX-8 is tilted a bit on the lift, it's because one of the engine brackets is taken off. You guys have to see the car after its been sitting on the lift for 2 days, it looks like a monster truck because of the springs.

I'm most likely going to get a bov flange and a bov tomorrow morning, do you guys know if the hose from the bov goes to the wastegate?

You'll also find it much easier to install the downpipe if you remove all but the top stud, place the downpipe, thread the nut onto the stud, and then install the other studs.

I took your response the wrong way, I thought you were mocking me; I apoligize for that.


:o: Grow up!

Anyway, thanks for the tip rkostolni.

I'm still trying to decide which BOV to get.. i'll probably just get it later down the road. I might have to run down to pep boys and pick up a $15 boost guage just to make sure I don't have any boost spikes. I'm currently in the process of figuring out what the hell I want to do with my gauge setup; probably just going to do the Defi imperial boost/ext temp.

bart,
spikes are spikes, you will not see them on an anologe gauge...

did you not read the stuff i sent you.. :rollingla

doing a good job...

beers :beer:

I'm currently in the process of figuring out what the hell I want to do with my gauge setup; probably just going to do the Defi imperial boost/ext temp.

Buy my gauge setup. pic here. (http://www.cox-internet.com/adrian-1/images/RX8/greddy/94.jpg) .. gauges are boost, oil press, water temp, and AFR.

Also, the answer to your intercooler piping question... you do have to take the sway bar off to get the pipe through there. Sway bar endlinks are easy to strip , so be careful and make sure to hold the allen head bolt while loosening with a wrench.

I didn't have to take myne off and managed without too much difficulty.

still can't believe you're selling the whole thing!

just curious... why? and i mean it in the most respectful way possible.

i just got mine dialed in with interceptor and i can't imagine wanting to sell my car for at least another 5yrs.

Yeah, It's lots of fun and I'll miss it but I really need a bigger car.
I've got mine dialed in at 12psi using the Interceptor (low-mid 11 AFR's). I'll make a short clip of it just to show how good it's running before I take it apart.

Props to Scott's Interceptor which helped lots and I'm sure his turbo upgrade will be even more impressive.

I didn't have to take myne off and managed without too much difficulty.
I do remember trying to wiggle the driver side piping through without taking the sway bar off and it wouldn't fit. It slid in easier with the sway bar off. Plus the instructions say to remove it.

I did mine without removing the swaybar.

I did mine without removing the swaybar.

Awesome, you give me hope :]

I have a slight problem with the car turning off while I drive, I have no boost gauge setup to check the psi but the car pulls like a mad man so it could be overboost. I ran a hose from the acuator/wastegate to the intercooler tubing that I drilled a hole in with the 1/8 NBT fitting on it. Does anyone know what the problem is?

car cut off when, at idle... or while driving....

did you read the homework i gave you....

beers :beer:

Sorry I didn't mention that, it turns off while driving w/ no cel.

If you mean the 3 fixes, than yes I read it. We did fix #2 which what I explained. Could it be possible that that is causing the car to shut off?

wow,

thats a big one... and it restarts... if so it is likely an elec connection...

you might have to tell more, but did you do the mods i linked to you, if not you are going to have issuses with the r flash...

beers :beer:

wow,

thats a big one... and it restarts... if so it is likely an elec connection...

you might have to tell more, but did you do the mods i linked to you, if not you are going to have issuses with the r flash...

beers :beer:

Can you link me again? To be honost I've been at the shop since Friday 3pm till 11pm, than from 3pm again to 11pm, and today from 8am to 11pm .. I'm out of it. How do I know which flash I have?

pm me,,,

am i the asshole now??? :)

beers :beer:

No you're actually a huge fucking help :]

Anyone else have anything to recommend?

Okay so basically I need a hose running from the wastegate to where? I'm so tired I don't even remember which pipe we drilled the hole in.. I'm buying the Interceptor when Scott comes back from Cali, I don't have the patience to deal with this emanage bull shit. Greddy is a god damn joke, regardless of the half assed instructions.. I'm pretty dissapointed.

Can someone manage to please explain to me where I need the hoses to run. I have both of my intake manifold plugs nippled and a hose running from the wastegate to the intercooler piping, not the turbo outlet pipe. Is it possible that is what is causing my car to shut off?

http://www.bartmatusiak.com/photos/greddy_turbo/DSC03595.jpg

The pressure sensor is connected under the throttle body, is this correct? Sorry if I'm being a bugger, I've been searching and reading but nothing has been making sense especially considering I don't have the car here to check anything. I start working on it in 5 hours and am trying to get as much information as possible.

Does this hose go directly to the wastegate?

http://bartmatusiak.com/photos/random/wastegatesignal.jpg (Tims setup)

hey Bart have a look at the diagram. I hope It helps out

I'm so tired I don't even remember which pipe we drilled the hole in..

The nipple has to be on the turbo outlet. See pic below

Really the nipple can be placed anywhere after the turbo. On that elbow is probably the best place though. Regardless of where you put it, it won't make your car stall.

Provide a better description. When does your car stall? Is it right after a hard run or while in vacuum and just cruising? Does it seem to be at a specific rpm/throttle position that makes it happen?

Okay here is what happens (I'll actually make a video tonight)..

It stalls when after I accelerate, and than put it into nuetral.. the rpms kind of go up and down from about 1.5k to 1k to 0k (something like that) and than it just turns off.

Your BOV is too loose. Tightening it up will decrease the frequency of occurance, but not eliminate it. To eliminate it go to a recirculating BOV ro get the Intx.

I don't have a BOV, but now have a most likely flooded engine. I took the car into the shop to tighten the oil pressure hose and install a boost gauge and what not.. I tanked up full (93 octane) and turned the car off in about 1 minute of doing so. The car was not fully warmed up. It now won't turn over at all. When cranking the engine you can smell the fuel and the engine bay begins to smoke a tiny bit. Is this normal on a flooded engine???

This engine was flooded to the max, I don't think it could have been any worse. Here's what I did to get it to run. The battery was dead so I had my friend Adrian (use to be known as Xdrian on this board, he had a 2004 lightning yellow but just bought a Subaru WRX) come down and try to jump start my car, it just wouldn't turn over. We than took out both the leading plugs, and cranked it to get some of the fuel out.. put the plugs back in, nothing. I than ran to the nearest store and grabbed a bottle of 5w30 and some brake cleaner since they didn't have any carb cleaner. We got all 4 plugs out, cleaned them and started cranking to get the fuel out of all 4 holes. Cleaned the plugs, put them back in and it started up after a few tries. Had to experience the infamous white smoke for about a few minutes and I took the sucker right home. I was pushing 5.2-5.5 psi the entire time but stalled out everytime I let the car into nuetral. If I let the engine slow down in gear, and let it reach 1k it would idle but if I put it in nuetral from a roll it stalls. Perhaps I'm in need of a blow off valve? Probably. Anyways, I'm taking the car to a local performance shop (1320 in Linden, NJ). I was quoted $150 for a new oil feed line including labor, and $40 for a complete inspection including all vacuum lines etc. Thanks for all your help guys, I'll report in with videos and such when I get the car completely tuned up.

bart,
stallling at idle is most likely a vaccum leak...

beers :beer:

Is it possible that because I don't have a bov it stalls?

no.
vacuum leak.

beers :beer:

no.
vacuum leak.

beers :beer:

I'm going to have it checked out sometime tomorrow, thanks for your advice Scott :]

Bart I am sure you got the turbo running now. what was the problem with you car stalling? was it the vacuum or something else?

Yeah, inquiring minds want to know.... ;)

Yeah, inquiring minds want to know.... ;)

where is sixshooter when you need him!!!

your new sig, threatens me.

beers :beer:

your new sig, threatens me.

beers :beer:

yeah it's a tad big. I guess I'd better fix that before I get the mod "smack down". :cwm27:

The suspense is killing me.....

tiggerlee,
i was kidding about the sig..

bart we know you are online..

beers :beer:

I have recently started having this problem.... And a CEL P0410 appears now :(

Same type of thing bart is having... in nuetral, rpms are not steady..

If it really is a boost leak, how do i go about finding it


Okay here is what happens (I'll actually make a video tonight)..

It stalls when after I accelerate, and than put it into nuetral.. the rpms kind of go up and down from about 1.5k to 1k to 0k (something like that) and than it just turns off.

EDIT: I Just described my problem in detail in another thread bart made at:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=1429892&posted=1#post1429892