I was wondering if anyone on here uses Idemitsu synthetic rotary motor oil on there cars, im considering ordering some, but before i shell out +40$ for 5 qts I wanted to know if anyone here knows if its worth the dent in the wallet.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/10W30-Bottle.jpg

I would not use a racing oil in a street car. It is not API certified b/c it does not have the additive package that you would want.

Stick with a good snthetic such as royal purple or redline, cheaper and will protect your engine better.

Is this true?

listen to Brillo. He talks to God... :D:

then again this thread is from a year ago eeee

2 years ago.

Actually, 1 year and 360 days ago.

dear lord time flys.

But really, so 10w30 Idemitsu = no good for street car?

not necessary for street car. I know many people use their Pre-Mix on our 8's, not sure about the engine oil

not necessary or BAD for a street car? Question pending I have 12qts of this in my garage.

Actually, 1 year and 360 days ago.

What are you, a Vulcan?

but their premix though, not bad right? i wish i can pick up some locally =(

Just order a case on-line from one of the Idemitsu distrubutors listed on their Website. Shipped right to your door, 12 quarts. Lasts me a year.

There is no right answer for it.

In order to get API rating, you have to meet some of their requirements, one thing to remember is that, it does not mean the more you have, the easier u will be able to get thru. lets say Certain additives are consider harmful to the earth and you should not have too much in the oil. if you have too much, you fail. Does that mean its bad for the engine ? noooo

Not to mention, it cost money to get the API test, if you know your product works and you have a group of loyal customer, why bother with the test?

So yes You can use Idemitsu oil for a street car. maybe I should be the first one to take that spot.

12 Quarts of RP ship to ur doors 80 bux

Idemitsu for about 100

ressurection, i'm about to just buy a ton of oil, and need to know which i SHOULD get.

i've decided on synthetc. now what? royal purple or idemitsu?

ressurection, i'm about to just buy a ton of oil, and need to know which i SHOULD get.

i've decided on synthetc. now what? royal purple or idemitsu?

http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil.html

In Texas I would probably use 10w-40.

Use Red Line, Idemitsu, or Royal Purple.

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2896657&postcount=87

I would not use a racing oil in a street car. It is not API certified b/c it does not have the additive package that you would want.

Stick with a good snthetic such as royal purple or redline, cheaper and will protect your engine better.

This would seem to contradict the idea the oil is not meeting API requirements or else they've changed the formulation since. And 'SM' oil is what Mazda specifies except in the USA & Canada (ILSAC only)(ILSAC, API SL or SM in other than USA & Canada)

Racing oils will kill your cat. Plain and simple. If you want a racing oil but would like to spend less Valvoline has a lineup from street legal VR1 to the stuff they use in NASCAR.

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=94
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=95

Racing oils will kill your cat. Plain and simple.

Can you add some detail to that...i.e., what is it, scientifically speaking, about Idemitsu Racing oil that will "kill your CAT"?

This would seem to contradict the idea the oil is not meeting API requirements or else they've changed the formulation since. And 'SM' oil is what Mazda specifies except in the USA & Canada (ILSAC only)(ILSAC, API SL or SM in other than USA & Canada)

He wasn't referring to the fact that a wrong additive package wasn't going to contain an adequate amount of protection for the street. Far from it.

I refuse to use Valvoline in a rotary on the grounds that it has the root word "valve" in the name! ;)

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2896657&postcount=87

Taking the information in this post, couldn't it be great to add maybe 1 Quart of Idemitsu Racing oil to your regular addition of Royal Purple or Redline?

savedsol brough up a good question, so I asked Idemitsu about the CAT issue today, they replied promptly....

(not originally posted but....)

Our Idemitsu Racing 10W-30 is rated at API SM. It should be fine to use in your car.

We have many racers who use the exact same oil in true racing applications. Racers have used our oil in such various series as Rolex GT, Formula Drift and Sport Compact Drag Racing. Many of these engines are putting out in excess of 450 BHP.

Your idea of mixing crossed my mind as well, might be another option. Beside when you change/filter oil, you only really change 3.1 qts of 5.6 qts total in the system anyway, so you theoretically never get all the original oil out, short of a complete engine rebuild :lol:

My opinion is that if you have to add anything to your oil to "improve it", you should just use a better oil instead.

RG, your comment in that other panel expressed concern about the amount of Molybdenum in Idemitsu oil and it settling out over time, how much time are we talking about before you think this happens - a hour,a day, a week? Where is it settling into to cause a problem?

Beyond that, I would think it would just go back into suspension if it's a particulate material when the engine oil is circulating again...?

It certainly would seem that (at least) for some people that track quite a bit, that this oil offers advantages in preventing bearing and gear wear because of the Molybdenum content, and for a daily drive, well, depending, it won't be coming out of suspension anyway due to constant use. Price is an issue..but then engine replacments are expensive too.

...so not sure I understand the problem this causes in the long run....can you explain further your concern and why you won't use it? Thanks.

Racing oils contain high levels of ZDDP - a zinc/phosphorous combo. Both are cat killers. This has been been brought down to really low levels in street legal oils under the new specifications. On engine such as ours that burns the oil (all cars break it down) the problem is exacerbated.

As was mentioned above, if Idemitsu went through API certification it would be street legal and good to go. However the sheet above doesn't say API certified, just "exceeds" API class SM.

Here's an interesting link when you have time: http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm

If your car is used heavily on the track, your oil gets changed alot, and you aren't running a cat, it's great stuff. Then again that's what use it was designed for. The word "rotary" in the name doesn't mean anything useful from a performance standpoint. It does work for marketing.

I do know that zinc dithiophosphate (aka ZDDP) can destroy CATs in large concentrations, so 1% or less is what is typically used to prevent that. I've not seen anywhere that Molybdenum in any concentrations degrades CATs however.

So the question remains, how much ZDDP does an oil contain (Idemitsu or others) ...and short of an oil analysis, it remains an open question...aside from the fact I received the answer I quoted above to a direct question to Idemitsu as to whether their oil would destroy or degrade my CAT.

Do you believe what a company says or just assume they lie to sell you their product :uhh:

Moly isn't going to degrade the cat. My concern is that it falls out of suspension and settles in the pan or clogs something up over time.

Do you trust the statement "should be fine to run in your car"? That's not a definitive statement. I haven't seen the bottle but the site suggests exceeds API SM not is API SM. He also didn't answer the cat question at all.

So to answer your question, no I don't believe what every company says.

i keep on think that idemitsuis sm spec. guess i was wrong.

idemitsu oil is pretty expensive ... i will stick with rp for now :) , if i have no cat i go idemitsu

...or Redline.

valvoline's vr1 series of oil is very good, just throwing in those 2 cents.

kevin./

I hope no one thinks I'm an Idemitsu basher. I'm not. It's a great oil that was developed in conjunction with the head of Mazda's rotary department (the same guy I talked to a few years ago about the use of synthetics in rotaries). It was just developed for a race car and I know what it has in it. Everything in an oil is a compromise. They didn't compromise as far as anti friction agents go which is a good thing. However the compromise did come in the form of their being an amount that may fail to stay in suspension in use over a long period of time. Keep in mind a race car used it's oil for hours at a time and not days or months.

From what I understand The Idemitsu Brand oil is possibly the fix for many of our problems, but has the possibility of creating some new ones. The question now is: Do the ends justify using it?
and is there anyone here who has used Idemitsu Rotary Oil on a long term scale?

*Never mind*

From what I understand The Idemitsu Brand oil is possibly the fix for many of our problems, but has the possibility of creating some new ones. The question now is: Do the ends justify using it?
and is there anyone here who has used Idemitsu Rotary Oil on a long term scale?

I want to try it ... if its not so hard to get.

No one locally carries it. So if I want it I have to mail order or order it online. which sucks.

Check this out> http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=169010

rotorsportsracing has it and the best price I've found and they sponser events of fellow rotorheads < Good Guys - they shipped almost immediately, others I found had online ordering, but didn't actually stock it (stupid)

email info@rotorsportsracing.com or just call

Teknics,

I am wanting to try the Valvoline VR1...What weight of the VR1 oil are you using? Is the VR1 standard motor oil or synthetic?