Since The other thread seem to be getting a bit long I thought I start another on driving impressions of the RP shifter.

When I received mine I was very impressed with the quality and feel. Honestly, it looks as much a stock component as the OEM. The install is a breeze and the improvement is remarkable. Napa Valley is surrounded by some wonderful twisties that I routinely run on beautiful days like today. Comparing to previous runs I can feel the improvement. Shifts are more precise and noticably quicker. Fast throws between 2nd, 3rd, and 4rth were accurate and I love the almost electric feel of the transmission tranmitted through the shifter. The only negative I have noticed is a rattle if I lug it in reverse, but that's easily resolved by proper driving :)

To me everything about the 8 is just a notch softer than I like. This is another component that makes the 8 feel more like the car I want it to be.

Great work Richard.

The other thread's only 400 posts....that's not long! We are talking about a Richard Paul product, after all. And yes, I'm still enjoying mine after all this time... :D

Can someone post a pic of this shifter installed? I know I've seen it somewhere (probably that long thread) but this would be a good place for it.

Yes this thread would benefit RP. Its a good place for end users to report their experiences with this new product.

A couple more positive reviews from different people not involved in the project and I'm the next customer!!

Another thing probably worth mentioning. The OEM shifter has a slight bend to make the shifter vertical in neutral. The RP shifter being straight leans very slightly to the left. I think this is another improvement over the OEM shifter. I notice top of the shift knob more and there is ample room between the brake. I'd be curious how the RHD folks perceive this. Here is a picture of it installed for what its worth. It looks very stock but feels quite different.

I suppose I'm the only RHD owner who has one fitted. I can't say I noticed the removal of the kink at the top of the shifter. Having it removed on this shifter certainly isn't a negative from my point of view. The top of the shift knob has been displaced approx 3/8" to the left.

sorry, got on this thread late. Randy, can you tell me how much you got it for? thanks!

A couple more positive reviews from different people not involved in the project and I'm the next customer!!

If you have the idea that as the starter of the thread encouraging this shifter that I'm somewhat biased toward it, I can assure you I'm not. I spent a good deal of time testing it after fitting, and posted comprehensively on what I perceived as it's only shortcoming.....the slight gear noise.

If this thing was sh#t, I'd tell you.

I didn't get it for nothing, I paid good money for it. If it was no good, I'd have sent it back.

Gomez.

ok few questions..

the picture above which is stock and which is RP's?

What exactly is a short shifter.. i can think of these...
the actual hight of the shifter is shorter...
the distancce to pull in and out of gear is shorter
orrrrrrrrr a more technical thing like shifter helps the flow of change of gears or something idk lol help???

A short shifter has less throw. In this case it takes about an inch off the throw. It is not requirment but as this one evolved it wound up 5mm lower then stock. That's less then 1/4 inch. Yet it is noticable to users and they report it perfect for shifting with their fingers.

The one with the white band is mine.
The fat black one is stock

Humor me...

If i were to hold the original shifter as low as i can, does that make the feel of the throw similar to the short shifter already or is it diff?

thanks

Here's the original thread: http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=42601

To save me from reading the whole thing, where (link) do I buy one please?

rx8cited, you have to PM richard Paul.

installed mine last night. easy install, and the shifts are oh so rock solid now. we're talking rifle bolt feel now, no more slop in the shifter. definately a must have for every 8.

only qualm i have is it transmits a tad more tranny noise into the cabin (not a big deal at all), and it comes with that convienient 'reverse stall warning' buzzer :P

(btw, the buzzer is really a rattle from the shifter that you get when you near a stall in reverse.)

Is there a DIY to install the RP short shifter? Or do instructions come with it...?

Look at Gomez posts on the other tread. You can't do better then that.

How much ?

Is there a DIY to install the RP short shifter? Or do instructions come with it...?

Gomez's instructions are on the middle of this post. (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=42601&page=22&pp=15)

How much ?

PM Richard for price & info.

Yay, got mine installed.

Installation was a snap. Biggest hurdle were those killer cable fasteners. ARGH.

I must say the shifts are definitely shorter and feels more "engaged", if you will. The shifting and gear engagment are much more firm and sure as compared to the somewhat softer stock setup.

The only qualm I have about it, is that it does trasmit more vibration from the transmission. You can hear a tad louder whine from the gears over stock. Not too much of a big deal. Also, the shifter shakes A LOT more as you're slipping the clutch to engage a gear. However that's usually not a problem unless you're slipping it a lot like say climbing an upgrade.

Anyone know if there is such a device as like sort of screw down, or clamp on dampener we could attach to the shifter? That might help the vibration and hum.

I have two videos that show the stock shifting over the RP shifting. I don't know if you can tell the difference from the vids.. but at least it's something to look at. Where you can see the "shortness" is near the end where I have the shifter in neutral and just move it side to side.

2 quicktime movies, about 7megs each. sorry, that's what my digicam captures at.
Plus with QT, you can play multiple videos at a time. :)

Stock shifter
http://66.206.4.159/old.mov

RP Shifter
http://66.206.4.159/new.mov

RX-Nut,

Those files are great. I ran them simutaneously in separate windows. I think they very accurately demonstrate the difference. Although 5mm is not much you can see the difference from your files. I'm finding reverse much less effort to engage over OEM. How about you?

Yea, there seems to be less travel to the right...

Here are some pics from the vids for those who just love the more visual example (like me)...

The left shots are the OEM shifter.. the right shots are RP's.

Sorry, the order of pics are screwed up.. the board didnt follow the alpha order I guess...

I tried to take the vids as close to the same way as possible. Although its hard discern a big measured difference in throw, look for the angle the shifter is at. You can get a better idea that way..

Here are 4th, 5th, 6th, and left and right..

Great, that shows well. Next time let your girlfreind shift, we'd much rather see her hands. ;)

Great, that shows well. Next time let your girlfreind shift, we'd much rather see her hands. ;)

I wish.. my wife would kill me if I let my girlfriend shift. Hahaha :D

i don't think the shifter vibrates too much...if anything it keeps my hands off of it when im in gear. the oem shifter has a rubber dampener in it to cut down on this a bit, but that accounts for alot of slop.

the most difficult thing in learning the gates...the entire pattern is shifted to the left, and you cant 'ride the wall' on a 5-6 or 6-5 shift any more. once i got it bolted down i tested to make sure it engaged each gear correctly, and i couldn't get it into either 5th or 6th. with my shifting style, the 4-5 shift is just like the 2-3 in that you have to guide it into the gate. if you overshoot it it just hits a wall. it takes getting used to, but once you got it down, it's just great.

OK I have a handle on the shaking in reverse or on a hill. It's clutch chatter.
The clutch is on the verge of slipping or not. The little springs in the hub are winding up and releasing. Just doing it's job. I don't know how to cure it. Just have to learn how to use the clutch differently???
The rubber diaphram around the shaft might be made heavier, but I'm not sure.
I know that we can't make a mold for a new one of those. It would cost alot more then we could recover from a few shifters.

Could a person double one up and glue them together? You could use contact cement to do it. Is it worth the trouble? Might be worth a try if you really have a problem with it. I didn't notice it when I drove the two installs we did here. Might be my style of driving?? :confused:

Rx nut, tell your wife I'm sorry. I didn't mean to cause domestic problems or encourage your infedelity. All I really wanted to note was a mans hand is not as attractive to this type audience. ;) Mainly men, since Kari is gone. :( (Foolman/ Icemastr.)

Hahah, it's cool Richard. I was just joking around.

As for the shakes, I understand about not being able to fix it. I'm not sure there is a fix. I guess it's just more noticeable due to the fact the shifter is now a solid piece.. who knows.

I can take vid of the shakes if you want.. Sometimes it just does it while I'm sitting in neutral, but its most replicable when I am slipping the clutch just about to engage the gear. Like I said, it's really only specific moments, but does happen nonetheless. The shakes while in neutral, I think are the normal RX-8 shakes however just magnified.

I'll try to get you some vid to see how spooky it looks hehe :)

i like the shakes! it makes my friends and guinea pig test drivers flip out, and i can laugh at them for not being able to drive :)

it's only happened to me in reverse though, not in any forward gears. all in all, i dont think the shifter vibrates any more than the OEM one. it just doesnt stop when you grab the knob, since there's no isolator to absorb the vibrations.

and about 5th and 6th gear, i retract my previous statement. now that the tranny lube has gotten up in there it finds the gears just as smoothly as the others. all smiles here!

Rx nut, tell your wife I'm sorry. I didn't mean to cause domestic problems or encourage your infedelity. All I really wanted to note was a mans hand is not as attractive to this type audience. ;) Mainly men, since Kari is gone. :( (Foolman/ Iceman.)
Whatever happened to Kari? :confused:

Icemastr is the bad guy, ask him. :( the jerk ;)

the most difficult thing in learning the gates...the entire pattern is shifted to the left, and you cant 'ride the wall' on a 5-6 or 6-5 shift any more. once i got it bolted down i tested to make sure it engaged each gear correctly, and i couldn't get it into either 5th or 6th. with my shifting style, the 4-5 shift is just like the 2-3 in that you have to guide it into the gate. if you overshoot it it just hits a wall. it takes getting used to, but once you got it down, it's just great.

Is this normal with the RP shifter? What is different that makes the "wall" not be there for 5&6?

I'm looking into this. It is the first I heard of it. Maybe other drivers don't use that style of shifting. I have an idea but I'm going to have to experement a little.

I don't experience the "wall" not being there in 5&6. For me the pattern is just tighter "shorter" and that takes some getting used to. But overall shifting is more precise and much improved.

I'm getting different opinions on this from different users. I wonder if the Mazda parts are not the same car to car. I have some people looking at the clearences now. Or It may just be driving style and some people have to adjust to it. Keep the feed back coming, I'm interested.

Hey Gomez, I'm sure there is no difference in right hand drive cars but do you experence any of this flutter? Or is it normal rotary rough idle just not dampened as much without the rubber insert? :confused:

No mate, they're all the same. No problems here. Look back a few posts, you'll see epitrochoid retracted his complaint about the 5th and 6th "wall" and stated he didn't think the shifter shook any more than the old one. The shaking shifter is an idle problem or clutch technique issue, I'd say.

The isolator is so stiff it'd transmit any vibration anyway. It's only use is to reduce noise and soften up the shift, IMO. The rubber will isolate a bit of heat from the shift knob too. That's not a concern for me at the moment, but it's something I'll have to take into consideration when I fit a ball style knob.

Does anyone know if the Voodoo knobs have a threaded nylon insert?

Thanks,
Gomez.

Well the shifter has no metal to metal contact, but heat still transfers through anything given time. A nylon insert can always be made, just have the knob tapped larger than the 10mm it is. Like 15mm. Still it will transfer sooner or later, probably later. Have a bushing made from hard nylon or an engineering polimer.

I'm still interested in feed back from anyone who thinks he is having a problem, of any kind.

Is this normal with the RP shifter? What is different that makes the "wall" not be there for 5&6?
put it this way...5th is where 3rd normally is and 6th is where 4th normally is: at the rearmost point of the circle trim around the shift boot. if you push the shifter all the way to the right and push up, it wont go into 5th or down for 6th. driving really isnt an issuse, but you don't have that stop there to stop the left/right movement of the shifter on a 4-5 or 5-6 shift. perviously 5th was very hard to find as was 6th, and when it when in it was clunky (partially attributed to the fact by the time i found the gear, the revs had dropped below where i naturally hold them) almost like when you have to force it into 1st when the car is rolling slowly. 5th and 6th slide right in now, but theres still no stop there to keep you from going to far

my $.02 is that the metal ring that actually secures the shifter into the transmission has a flat spot on the right hand side. this keeps you from pushing the shifter too far right and out of the 5/6 selector rod. richard perhaps you should look into machining a new ring that moves that flat spot where it needs to be to eliminate the dead area between the 5-6 line and R.

some one else try to push the shifter all the way to right and get it into 5th or 6th, maybe it's just something with my car.

Does anyone know if the Voodoo knobs have a threaded nylon insert?

Thanks,
Gomez.

The Voodoo knob I have does not have a nylon insert, it is aluminum through and through.

ok, i've figured it out...i went out for a drive and realized the problem isnt half as bad as i make it sound...it's just a matter of learning the new gates. push the shifter to the right and STRAIGHT up and 5th will engage (since 5th sits on the y axis at the top of the circle). i was pushing to the right slightly as i would with the OEM shifter (where 5th gear resides in the upper right quadrant of the circle), and it just happens that if you do this you'll hit some sort of barrier. same thing for 6th

only thing i wish the shifter came with was a new clip for that damn center console!

Is it possible you are pushing down (into the tranny) slightly when going to 5th? Reverse seems to take much less effort and you my be going into the reverse gate. Mine will act the same if you man handle it. Shifting with a light touch seems very sure.

The Voodoo knob I have does not have a nylon insert, it is aluminum through and through.

Okay...thanks, dammit... :(

i thought that might have been the problem, but i backhanded it and applied slight upward pressure, same issue. but its my particular shifting style that causes this, and it would be native to all short shifters, not just the AFE.

....only thing i wish the shifter came with was a new clip for that damn center console!

I have not done the mod yet. What's the purpose of this clip? Can we not reuse the stock clip?

not if you massacre it when removing the center console! :P

Here are a couple short vids to help out. I have a 6 minute step by step video of the install. If anyone is interested PM me and I'll put it on my server for you.

Clip Removal (http://www.twistedcirclemedia.com/rx8/RP_Short_Shift-Clip_Removal.wmv)

Before and After (measured throw) (http://www.twistedcirclemedia.com/rx8/RP_Short_Shift-Before_After.wmv)

-Boxcar

Great clips (pun intended) Boxcar.
That trick with the needle nose should make everyone else a little embarased :o
The shift reduction is hard to tell people but your clip is a good find.

I need to put all these things together somehow for an install video.
Between some of the visuals provided by you guys and Gomez instructions it will be the best DIY guide ever. :)

The clip removal tip alone is worth a few min of time. :D

not if you massacre it when removing the center console! :P

Ummm, you're not talking about the wiring harness clips are you.......or are you?

no, the clip on the rear right hand side of the center colsole. it broke when i took it off, but you could never tell, the other 3 do a just fine job holding it on there.

Just a sales note, we will in the next few days be signed up as a forum vender. That will smooth some misunderstanings. Also from the other thread something came up about internatioal sales. It has been arranged that Hymee Enhanced will Have the distribution rights to Australia and Europe. Australia through Hymee and his Euro distributor Rasputin. Enquires should be directed to those sorce if you are in those countrys.

Thanks for all your interest in my product, production on a second run is now underway. Thanks to those that have been giving such great feedback and installation instructions. :)

Stupid comment, but Gomez mentioned in the other thread that it transmitted more noise into the cabin if you left your hand on the shifter while driving. He followed that up by stating you shouldn't do that anyway. Why is this? Does it damage something, or is this just stemming from the two hands on the wheel mantra? I always rest my hand on the shifter.

by holding the shifter you're prohibiting the vibrational energy from being dispersed, and if you're applying pressure to the shifter your putting unecessary force onto the syncros. it seems like a miniscule amount of energy, but over time it can wear down the tranny.

Whatever happened to Kari? :confused:

lol Sorry! I've been somewhat of a flake lately with recent surrounding events. But alas, I am back and still here. :)

Fear not Richard! :D


Now back to the topic.. :p

Here are a couple short vids to help out.....

Thanks :cool: ! That will be a big help during my install.

Kari is back, :cool: There is a God

Production is going along guys. Shafts were cut yesterday, we just need to do the polymer parts. Figure this time next week .

I had a drive of Taka's car the other day, he has the stock shifter (ATM...).

I can tell you all......, after fitting this shifter there is no going back :eek: . Taka wasn't on Hymee's Australian customer list, he is now after having a drive of my car.

Gomez :) .

Hmmm.... Damn I hate when someone lure me to spend more money :rolleyes:

You devil Gomez. :)

I found an easy way to get the boot console off on my car....I've had it off three or four times now. remove the clip by the handbrake, take off the shifter nob...grab the vinyl boot....and pull sharply up...it pops right off.

PS: went back to stock shifter for 20 min today......damn I love the RP shifter...it shifts so much better!!

You didn't break the tabs?
What made you try that?
Where you mad or just have big nads?

Actually it was kinda by accident the first time---I pulled up on it to straighten out the boot...and it popped the clips...was way easier than trying to pry it up the other way.

I'd like to say it's big nads...:D but I'm probably just kinda dumb!

Actually it was kinda by accident the first time---I pulled up on it to straighten out the boot...and it popped the clips...was way easier than trying to pry it up the other way.

I'd like to say it's big nads...:D but I'm probably just kinda dumb!

I used this technique today, no broken tabs for me either. I also installed my shifter today, probably the last one from the first batch.

Not much time today to drive around, but it I agree with how it has been described:
1) a more direct feel
2) noticably shorter than the already short mazda shifter
3) very little noticable noise increase
Overall, more sports car, less luxury feel to shifting. I need to spend more time behind the wheel to have more significant comments.

Bad news/good news. Which do want first?
The reason Dannobre had removed his shifter is that the spring came up over the pivot box and the shaft locked down. This is the only one that has done this. So therefore there must be some tolorence in the Mazda parts. I know it's not mine because they are within .001".
Since we don't want this to happen again we are redesigning the plastic part and making new ones. Anyone who bought one of the first batch can have the new part. If you want to change it yourself it is not hard. I will send you the new part, all you need do is contact me.

If you have no trouble you don't have to change it now. You may at your convenence send it back for a refit. Or you can just keep on trucking. You will always have the option to get one for free whenever you want.
Again, this only happened on one unit. We still think it should be addressed on all new units and the ones that we were going to be shipping in the next day or so are going to have to wait a few days until the new parts are made.

This is being done at great expence so you know I really don't want to do it. This change requires new tooling and a larger size stock that does not go through the spindle. Meaning more work and wasted material. Plus this is expensive stuff, a bunch more than aluminum.

The shifters will now go out mid week, next that is. All you that want this part for your existing shifters contact me after next week and I will have them.

Sorry but this is a commitment to quality that is always on going. Your cooperation
in this has contributed to a more reliable product. We all win on this. Except my bean counters. Anytime improvements can be made we will do so. If they can be incorporated into old units they will be retrofitted and we stand behind them for as long as you own your car.

Thanks for your indulgence, Richard

I have heard from some owners wanting to know if this will keep the car from being used. First of all it only happened to one unit. It probaly will not happen again. But it is only like driving with the shaft pressed down. It eliminates the reverse lock out. If it happpens just be carefull. Again it will probably not happen. The only change is going to be the addition of 2mm or .080" to the outside dia. That is it. I just relesed this info because this is a small and close group and I felt it would not panic anyone as you are all mechanicly inclined. Maybe just don't tell your wife.

RP...you have great customer service....and great morals. The commitment to quality is appreciated by all of us.

Don't worry..other than the loss of the lockout...there was no problem with driving the vehicle. If by a very slight chance it happens to you...just be careful when you take the shifter out. You need to remove the spring retaining clip....as the plastic cup slips under it and you can't get it out by just pulling it up!

After re-installing it yesterday...after 20 min with the stock one in to pick up my son in the middle of the re-install.....I won't go back to stock. The RP unit is so much nicer to shift!

Yeah, after driving Taka's car there's no way I could go back....

Guess what!! I'm building my own web site. I have it up but nothing much is in it since I can't find the load button. Also it is a pretty limited program it wouln't let me put as many pictures as I'd like or where I want them. But asI get to know it or someone comes to the rescue it will be slow growth.

Actuallly the heading was done by Brad Webb who was going to build the site but couldn't find the time, I think.

Anyway you can follow the slow growth at "axialflow.com"

So you think I'm not working on your shifters, right? Well the material came in today and besides that it's night time. On top of that it is Friday night and I'm going out like real people do.

I'll make it up, I'll go in on Sunday. It's quiet then.

Visitor #1......Lookin' good Richard!

Now that I have had mine for a while I can make more observations. Overall it is a more direct feel. I have tried it with the stock and voodoo magnum shift knobs, and find that the stock one is a nice height, but the voodoo too low. I have ordered a pistol grip voodoo, and will see how that is.

The only negative I have found is a rattle when in reverse, if you don't apply power quickly enough and the engine runs a little rough. I suppose you could call that driver error.

So even 5mm is too much of a drop in height for the VooDoo?

So even 5mm is too much of a drop in height for the VooDoo?

It seemed very low to me, but I will try it again another time. I actually just tried it in the parking lot and not actually driving, the aluminum knob is pretty cold to use this time of year.

I'll give it a real try this week.

HaHaHa, Thats great, the knob is aluminum. Canadian winters might not be compatable. :D :D You'd better keep the plastic one. Even a leather covered aluminum knob wouldn't be good. Sell it to someone in Fla.

BTW Voodoo Knobs are all countersunk to shorten the stroke a tad. That's part of their sales pitch. The S2000 guys all have to have a countersunk knob because their shifter is high.

I'll give it a real try this week.

I did try it for a while yesterday (Voodoo magnum). Usually I grab the shift knob by the side, and it is a little low for that style. Instead, grabbing it from the top worked well, and if that is your style it would be fine.

As with this kind of assessment, how you sit makes a difference. I have the seat almost as low as possible, and my arms are long so with my coat on my arm is very close to the arm-rest when shifting. Holding it from the top was no problem.

I also have just bought a Voodoo pistol grip style, and will give it a try when I have time and it is not too cold for aluminum knobs! :p For now I have put the stock one back, but that was motivated more by cold than shift position. I like the feel of a smooth shift knob, but not one made of ice.

OK, time has come, I'm just deburring the new pivot joints now. Shifters will get assembled tomorrow. Anyone who has contacted me I will try to PM you but we are ready to take your money. I can start shipping Friday if I have your bucks.

Omicron that banner is almost ready from polak so you'll get it as soon as I do.

Guys that have units from the first batch I'll send you the new part next week.

Except you Dan, yours I will send right away.

Thanks RP...once again great service...

RP,

Can you explain what the problem is with the first batch of units. I'm not sure I understand. Someone managed to break the device on the shifter that prevents a misshift into reverse?

sorry.. me bizarro.

No, the spring under the shifter managed to work it's way up over the pivot cup which allowed the shifter to drop further into the gearbox selector rail. This had the effect of allowing reverse to be selected without a push down on the shifter. Richard believes this occurred because manufacturing tolerances in the gearbox were greater than he'd allowed for.

I think I got that right. BTW, only dannobre has had this problem.

Gomez.

Gomez is exactly right. Don't worry about anything as it has not happend to anyone else. It is only the spring retainer ring that holds the spring in. This must have a larger span of inside dia then we thought. We of course could not get more then a couple to look at and they did not change much. So we have made new pivot joints that have an extra 2mm in that spot. For all we know there ibs not another car in the world with a retainer that big.
In fact Dan is driving it still after removing it and pushing the spring back down. I will not let you drive around in fear of this happening so a new part is going to be at your door next week.

It is easy to change you just need a arbor press or something like it. A hyd press is not nessasary. You can almost do it by hand, I can't but you might be strong enough. It is just to easy to do that it requires returning it to the factory. But you can do that if you want. The other option is to send me a ticket and I will come to you.
That only applies to Hawaii though.

What...don't want to come Here? It was 16C today...warm and Sunny...Kinda likeit's supposed to be in Cali. You poor sods have our ususal weather :D

:) Heheh.. thanks for the info. Good to know we'll have the part in case it happens.

Maybe I'll pay for you to come down and install a turbo! Heheheh

Sorry I don't do windows or turbos. ;)

Vancouver!! I used to race there at a place called "Westwood" we called it "Wetwood". Because it usually was, for qualifying or the race or both.

As for here you betcha, it raining and cold. Everything is flooded and falling. Maybe I should be designing an arc, or however it's spelled.
You guys go out and get the animals, male and female only. :rolleyes:
Hey, where are the protesters?? That guy didn't take any gay's. :eek:
We better call someone. ;)

I used to love Westwood....they plowed it under about 10 years ago and built a lot of really expensive houses there. I loved motorcycle racing there...there were some very cool corners on that track. They built a shity little road track at Mission Raceway....but it's perfectly flat and it sucks...not like Westwood.

Oh by the way...it was 18C today and sunny....:D

Good luck on the Ark...I'd just let in all the gorgeous not so bright Cali girls...and tell them that you are a God....and rock on! As for the politically correctness and the gay and Lesbian crowd....Swimming is good for you!

Yeh, Letting in all the not so bright Ca girls and telling them you are God has been done here so many times that I don't even flinch at any new ones. :rolleyes:

All those others are in SF or Venice Beach.
All the trees in those places are dying from being hugged so much that the sunlight doesnt get in.

I loved Westwood, it was a great place. I can see the attractiveness for expensive homes. I would look in that area if I lived there. There certainly was a lot of elevation change. The last time I raced there was I believe 1976. I still remember every turn. I could go out on it today and know the line.
That Hairpin at the end of the back straight was a killer. One year I changed the ring and pinion so all the gears were lower but a high first gear was just lower then the old second and I could get off that corner better. Just that when you get off better it makes entree into those esses a lot higher. It took a whole weekend to get used to it.

I also remember there was a good bump on the last or next to last before the front straight. It took alot of shock work and we didn't have the shocks that they have now.

Shipped a bunch today. Not all though, so the rest should go out tomorrow.

Anyone who has ordered, by tomorrow at the latest it will be on it's way.
There are still plenty left so if you havn't ordered yours yet you can.

ooooooo sweet gimmie gimmie. how long does it take to get it if i'm next to d.c. hmm i'm guessing 3-4 days. i can wait that...hehe i've waited this long:D

Everything that was paid for has been shipped. If you don't have it by wens let me know. With all the orders being filled at once I might have gotten lost.
If your out of the country it will of course take longer to get to you.

^^SWEET thanks for the update..i can't wait till weansday:D:D:D

HAHA scrw weansday i just got a knock at the door...adn what do i behold......(suspense)...... but my new short shifter from RP:D:D:D:D fast service and i can't wait to put it in.. of coarse it had to start snowing today (what's up with that) so i'll have to wait till tom. or weansday to get it in. but i am soooo happy. (hehe i also got my case of Royal Purple 5w20:D ) it was like x-mas today:D:D:D

Have you checked out the new DIY for the install??!!

oooooo i have not...but it was top of my list befor i hit the hay tonight:) If only i was as motivated about calculus as i was abotu my rx-8:) hahahaha

Boy that is some fast service by Uncle Sam. Gomez those are great DIY posts, thank you. Give some thought and let me know about that "yanking" thing.
Oh boy, I set myself up again didn't I?
I ment the shift boot, to save the "tabs". They are becoming as famous as the "chads" of Florida.

Give some thought and let me know about that "yanking" thing.


Done :) . Check the DIY thread.

sweet diy on teh shifter Gomez amde the install a breeze:D:D:D

Ok Richard...my shifter showed up this morning. That was fast. You forced me into taking a 1/2 day of vacation :)

Gomez...I'm going to put your DIY to the test. Might even grade it ;)

I wish me luck!!!

Mine came in the mail yesterday. Of course, it was snowing, so I won't have a driving impression until tomorrow if I'm lucky. :mad:

The entire install took 11 minutes. Of course, I'm a veteran at the removal of the center console, so your results may differ.

The piece itself looks like an OEM assembly, so it is of amazing quality.
It dropped right in.
I imagine there will be a few people that install it with the lockout tang on the wrong side, so a word of caution there is probably advisable.http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/smiles/icon_shrug.gif

With the motor off and clutch in, it feels nice. But that is a worthless review.

I'll post again after I drive it.

I imagine there will be a few people that install it with the lockout tang on the wrong side, so a word of caution there is probably advisable.

Got that covered in the DIY...

Thanks guys. Jeff, you don't have to worry about reversing the shifter, there is a rib on the pivot box that allows it to only go in one way. You knowing these things and not having to rely on the fail safe system never got to test it. You just looked at the posabilitys and put it back in the right way. So we could leave the rib off iff everyone thought like you. That would save a few pennys and get me a bad reputation from the first guy to get it into reverse while rolling.

Therefore the safety rib stays on there. Until just now I didn't think of it but someone in my shop could possably put the pivot box on backwards and the user would be forced to install it backwards. From now on that is going to be the last thing I check before bagging them.

Yes that sounds like a record install to me. Faster than we do it here. It takes us about 15+ min.

We did the first Honda S2000 over the weekend. It is an improvment there too. We have to redesign the size, the first one was too low. They have a different design but the same rubber bushing in the shaft.

Got mine yesterday, and it looks sweet.

Currently I am involved with changing to RB Springs & Sways, so will not be able to do install until after I finish -- hopefully by this weekend.

Thanks Richard for the prompt shipment.

drives like it came from the factory...well except i hardly have to move the shifter now:D it's great...no issues at all..i drove around about 200 miles on it....lovin' every min of it. great job on making this Richard:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Ok, now that my finger is a bloody stump just wtf is the secret to that damned right hand clip? Beginning to think mine has super glue holding it in.

Any of you sub 15 minute installers (which, btw can all can kiss my arse) have any tricks to get that clip to come free???

Can't wait for mine, btw how do you all like richards new signiture image ;) and footer banner.

I wonder where that came from.... :rolleyes:

After following Gomez' great instructions I got the RPSST (Robert Paul Super Short Throw, in diference to Mazdaspeed Short Throw) Shifter installed. Most gratifying was the sound of all six clips clicking into place as the cover went back in place!

Driving impressions: strong, solid feel as gears engage. I use a Team Voodoo round knob, not the magnum, shifting up with the palm/heel of my hand, down shift with fingers and palm. Very slight pressure left for 1st and 2nd, slight thumb pressure for 5th and 6th. Love it! No more accidental 5th to 4th shifts when looking for 6th!

I enjoy the sound of the engine winding up, the exhaust tone, and now the whine of the tranny at high revs. At cruising speed I hear a very low whine, not objectionable and does'nt interfere with the sound system.

I find the vibration level much the same as before.

Over all a great mod for a grat car! :) :)

I wonder where that came from.... :rolleyes: Heh, anyway donno if this has been covered but as those with navigation start to try and install the shifter you'll have to unclip some harnesses from the controls behind the sifter, here are some pics of what im talking about when I took apart my dash.

You'll need to pop it up just like this to get at the harnesses.
http://www.polakgraphics.com/images/005_RJ.JPG
O and just because this is a really cool pic
http://www.polakgraphics.com/images/019.JPG :)

I can't wait to use my "you wanna shift my stick" line on the next girl thats in the car with this shifter. Oh and for the ones I've already used it on I can say "this one is harder and stiffer", "and shorter:cool:" Thx Richard.

Boy Polak, those are my sort of lines. :cool: Now that I'm getting to old to use them it gives a warm feeling to know someone else is carrying on a good tradition. ;)

But you should say "only a bit shorter" don't give away anything. :rolleyes:

And everyone already knows where the banner came from and like it.
I havn't seen the footer yet. Guess I better go look for it.

That means I can say the price of the shifter. $249.00 plus $12.00 S&H in the lower 48. Yes, got that off my chest.
BTW this represents a club price list is +45 bucks.

I'm mailing out the replacment pivot boxes starting tomorrow. For you who have the first batch units.

Just saw the footer Polak. Excellent work, I love it. Anyone who needs this sort of work he's a good guy to know. :D

Managed to get the shifter in, less the "evil clip" as Army_rx8 calls it. Richard this thing is awesome. I've only been around the block a couple times but it was enough to hit all gears. Man, what a difference this shifter makes. Great job.

Gomez, that DIY was perfect. Now, hurry up with the revision that removes the evil clip automatically. ;)

Again, great job you two....I'm going to enjoy this :D

Got mine yesterday. :D Now I've just got to get it installed!

Gomez, that DIY was perfect. Now, hurry up with the revision that removes the evil clip automatically. ;)

Again, great job you two....I'm going to enjoy this :D

Plenty have removed the evil clip....only they did it accidentally, not automatically :) . Hence my specific direction to do it carefully by pulling the clip to the left while applying upward pressure......

Glad you found the DIY handy.

Cheers,
Gomez.

Thanks guys. Jeff, you don't have to worry about reversing the shifter, there is a rib on the pivot box that allows it to only go in one way. Actually, mine will fit both ways - I did test it because I was curious.
It slipped in the wrong way just as easily as the correct way.

Really? I better look into this, I might need to make the rib higher. But i'm not going to build another batch of the pivot boxes. They are just to much work. Besides if a guy got it in mbackwards it would be harder to move up and down and he would notice the lockout was not there.

So it is in Gomez DIY anyway. I'm not loosing sleep over it.

Really? I better look into this, I might need to make the rib higher. But i'm not going to build another batch of the pivot boxes. They are just to much work. Besides if a guy got it in mbackwards it would be harder to move up and down and he would notice the lockout was not there.

So it is in Gomez DIY anyway. I'm not loosing sleep over it.
If you put it in backwards, you have no first or second gear and you can get it into reverse without pressing in the stick. :p

In my best Rowan or Martain imitation, (I dont know which one said it) "Well I didn't know that." ;)

Wow. Really nice feel. Very easy to get into gear.
As others have noted, the already present transmission noise is somewhat more pronounced.
Certainly the best aftermarket shifter I have felt. It is really an improvement, not just "something different".

Plenty have removed the evil clip....only they did it accidentally, not automatically :) . Hence my specific direction to do it carefully by pulling the clip to the left while applying upward pressure......

Glad you found the DIY handy.

Cheers,
Gomez.


I couldn't get that clip free no matter what I did. I even tried going at it from the e-brake side. My finger let me know exactly how that clip operated but for the life of me it wouldn't budge. So...after I couldn't feel anything with my finger except pain I said screw it. lol I jammed a screw driver in there and broke off the bottom of the clip. Turns out I was worried over nothing. The clip is toast but you can't even tell. If I ever need in there again it'll be that much easier :o

This is bad coming from me but I actually can't wait to drive to work this morning!

I couldn't get that clip free no matter what I did. I even tried going at it from the e-brake side. My finger let me know exactly how that clip operated but for the life of me it wouldn't budge. So...after I couldn't feel anything with my finger except pain I said screw it. lol I jammed a screw driver in there and broke off the bottom of the clip.....

I did say it was a bastard..... :)

hehe that's odd mine came off so easy all i did was pull up:D guess i was lucky...granted i started with the clips by the e-brake and worked opposite the evil clip untli it was last then it just came up...took 10 min.'s top for the whole install (start to finish)..hehe guess my baby was co-operating b/c she wanted a new toy:p

..took 10 min.'s top for the whole install (start to finish)..
Damn - beat me by a whole minute! :mad:

Well I'm just going to have to give out some of these quotes in my ads about install racing. :)

OK I did loose sleep over the direction of the lockout tab. I copied the locating rib of the stock Mazda unit. If you can put mine in backwards then you can do it with the stock one. Next guy to do an install, try it with the stock one.

Maybe it is just a reference for smarter people who own Mazdas. :rolleyes:

The reason he beat you Jeff is that you were screwing around trying to put it in backwards. ;)

Gomez, did you say"bastard"??? :eek: IthoughtIheardsomeonesaybastard

The reason he beat you Jeff is that you were screwing around trying to put it in backwards. ;)
Everything is like a scab to me - I have to pick at it. I am compelled...:p

hehe sorry mazdamaniac..if it makes you feel better i can add a few min.'s on...hehe..naw i can't lie...but i also didn't see if i could install it in upside down and backwards:p

i heard that you were at the MSCW meet tonight at fuudruckers...haha too bad the only pic i have to go off of is a dog on a turbo...and i'm pretty surte i didn't see any of that there lking about....so i hoep i made my potonight;) hehe i was curiouse abotu seeing your turbo...but it was hella cold out with that wind. catch you at the nedxt one..or the scenic drive (if you are going...hell if i'm going:D)

hmm now that i've rambled on i totaly forgot what i was originaly talking about...hehe so i hope i made the point i thought of 5 min.'s ago:p

i heard that you were at the MSCW meet tonight at fuudruckers...haha too bad the only pic i have to go off of is a dog on a turbo...
Yeah, I was there.
I got out of there right at the end because Ryan and I wanted to try to tune his E-Manage before it got too cold.

haha you guys should've started befor the sun went down then (or are you talking abotu engine temp?)..either way...are you going to need to tune it every season? (ie switch tunes once you have it tuned right for the weather)...or is t just a generic tune for all season? just curious i don't knwo too much about turbo's and what comes along with them.

The tuning should be OK year 'round.
I was referring to the possibility of my man-bits getting frozen off by the 0°F wind chill.

lol...indeed teh wind chill was pretty killer tonight. i'm sure your intercooler was lovin' it though:D

How did this thread get on page two? No wonder I didn't sell any shifters today.
Everyone has taken to the first thread again which is fine but a newbee would be more likely to read a shorter one. It take hundreds of posts to get to comments from an installed owner. :rolleyes: :)

Richard, orders are now open to the public?

I thought only select members with pre orders were being produced/shipped?

I read earlier there was a prolem/glitch with "reverse". Has that been rectified?

I take it an order can be placed through your website?

Thanks

Cam, PM me. Right now I need more help with the website to get it working. I think the reverse problem you refer to is the fluxing of the stalk when you were about to get the clutch ingaged in reverse. The problem is the clutch is doing it's job by winding up the hub springs and unwinding them. This happens because you are not locking and going. You are on the verge when in reverse. If you let the clutch out and locked up the driveline and went faster it would stop.

Why it is more noticable in some cars then others I do not know. It just could be the driving habits of the owners. The lower force has more leverage on the upper part because of the higher ratio. That might make it more pronounced but it didn't start it.

You have nothing to lose, if you don't like it send it back.

Richard if you'd like I can set you up a temporary Paypal "add to cart" before I/you finishes the website? Email me.

this needs to get dump in the dyi thread. it took me a while to figure it out.

beer
john stewart


Here are a couple short vids to help out. I have a 6 minute step by step video of the install I was going to post here but I was a little too excited about trying it out so it is pretty boring. If anyone is interested PM me and I'll put it on my server for you.

Clip Removal (http://www.twistedcirclemedia.com/rx8/RP_Short_Shift-Clip_Removal.wmv)

Before and After (measured throw) (http://www.twistedcirclemedia.com/rx8/RP_Short_Shift-Before_After.wmv)

-Boxcar

i ended up using a thin screwdriver and a rag to protect the silver stuff. i spent .5 hr trying to move it with my finger. after that it was cake.

beers


I couldn't get that clip free no matter what I did. I even tried going at it from the e-brake side. My finger let me know exactly how that clip operated but for the life of me it wouldn't budge. So...after I couldn't feel anything with my finger except pain I said screw it. lol I jammed a screw driver in there and broke off the bottom of the clip. Turns out I was worried over nothing. The clip is toast but you can't even tell. If I ever need in there again it'll be that much easier :o

This is bad coming from me but I actually can't wait to drive to work this morning!

I just received my AFE short-shift kit and installed it during my lunch break at work! First of all, thank you Gomez for that DIY, it made things much more clear. After defeating the right rear clip (not that bad once you figure out that it takes more yank then finesse), I had somewhat of a rough time with the twin plastic clips that tie back the wires. I used the flathead screwdriver technique to weaken their grip, and then tugged the bastards off. After that it was a race to get to the gearbox. I was surprised how well the new unit just slipped right in.

I reversed the process and finished up.

Impressions:

While still parked, I rowed through the gears. HOLY $&*@. The feel is VERY precise. I was amazed at how close the gates of 3, 4, 5, 6 seem. I thought at first that I installed it wrong because I was missing 5th and 6th. It takes a good push to the right to make sure you are in the high gears. Does anyone else only feel about 1/4" of travel between the 3-4, 5-6 gates in neutral (and much more travel between 1-2 and 3-4)? Is it normal?

I started her up... Engaging reverse feels very stock. I found that this stick transmits less vibration than stock because I can actually read the graphic on top of the shifter (whereas it was a quivering mess before). The AFE vibration is a much tighter whirring than the rubbery fluctuations of the stock piece.

Off I drove... the same tight vibration was present as I drove off... once I exited the garage I gave it a nice peg in 1st then I wacked it into second. That clumsy feeling of bending the stick was gone. I got a nice thunk and the revs dropped in sync with my clutch-up. I know exactly what Gomez is talking about now. I have driven a manual trans. car for 10 years and I always seemed to flub the 1-2 shift in the 8. It seemed that unless I slammed it into 2nd (which never felt right, almost as if I'd rip the shifter out) the revs dropped too quickly for me to be smooth. I also felt that it was the lack of torque (coming from a V8) I was not used to, causing me to expect the engine to smooth the action out. Not anymore. The throw has been shortened just enough to fire off perfect shifts; the solid gate engagement is very satisfying. I made a few u-turns to row through the gears...

I did notice increased gear noise coming from the gearbox. Although not that intrusive, I think I might put some sound deadening material in. This might be futile... any thoughts? The noise is pleasing however... it sounds like a muted race transmission. By third gear the ambient noise drowns it out.

Once on the highway, I marveled at how much easier downshifts were. No need to be conscious of the gearbox anymore. This unit is telepathic. Just make sure 5th and 6th are engaged with deliberate pressure to the right (I am thinking this will lessen once the unit is lubed as Epitrochoid stated). My initial concerns about the gates being too close were kind of erased as the high gears were quite easy to engage, but I would still like to know if others' units are this close.

This is my first mod to my 8 because the shifter was one of only two things I feel lacking in the 8 (the other being throttle response, soon I will get a lighter flywheel). I was hesitant at first to get something that was brand new and unproven, from a company I had never heard of. After reading 3 or 4 testimonials, I figured I had to try it.

Overall, I am truly impressed. I got it 2 days after sending Richard Paul my payment and had it installed in less than half an hour. This was money well spent and I encourage everyone to buy one of these! It will really bring your 8 to life.

I'm glad it went right in with Gomez help of course. He needs a metal for this. Maybe he should come over here when my SC is ready and write the install for that too.

Back to you question about having to push hard over to the right. It might be.
It seems that Mazda hasn't held the best of tolorence on the plate with the two dowl pins. It's ok for them but with the adjusted leverage there is less movement of the reverse lockout tab. Less movement means more critical. So on cars that are on the end of tolorence there can be interferance with the tab and plate.

This tolorence can go the other way, whitness the guys who can't rub the wall when using 5/6. that is the oposite end of the stock tolorence.

If it is rubbibg the wall as this one is you can take the shifter oout and file about .010 to 015 off the tab. Using a small cross cut file it will be hard to tell how much you take off so be carfull unless you have a caliper. Trial and error but don't go overboard. It shifts now so all you want is to get it more into the gate.

Take a few strokes and try it. This material will file well with a clean file. Remember use a fine file, cross cut works. If you use a course file you will ruin it.
Very small amount will make a big difference.

Sorry about this but there is nothing I can do to fix the wide tolorence we must work with. I've been thinking about looking for a method that will allow the end user to move the plate and re- dowel pin it. It just would require some precision pining and might be out of the range for the avarage home mechanic. And/or his tools.

I could make the tab longer then everyone would have to file fit the thing????//
I don't think that would be a good idea as the number of cars with their tolorence at the end is small.

If anyone else feels this then here is your fix. Just don't everyone go doing it when you don't need to. Don't go making me sorry I told eveyone by filing things that don't need it. You can tell when you install it by checking the clearance between the tab and plate when going between 5/6. No clearance is ok if you arent hacving a hard time. Very light clearance about .005-.010 is good.

It will eventually wear some also. Any of you genius out there think of a way to move that plate around with ease let me know.

Again, This is the rare car at the end of the tolorence don't think it a problem when there is none. We hold that tab to .001 tolorence. If this was a standard problem I would make it a different size. This is in the center of Mazdas range.
Don't mod anything you don't have to. And if you can't hold the material removal to a limit don't do it, send it back for me to do.

If I could find another way I would but this doesn't effect to many cars in fact this is only the second one.

Thanks for the advice Richard, what unit of measurement is ".010 to 015 " off the lockout tab?

I'm assuming since I don't know, I shouldn't be filing it!!

hehe

Thanks for the advice Richard, what unit of measurement is ".010 to 015 " off the lockout tab?

I'm assuming since I don't know, I shouldn't be filing it!!

hehe

Glad you enjoyed the DIY. Richard is talking about thousandths of an inch. Point 010 is 10 thousandths of an inch. 40 thou is about one millimeter.....

Gomez.

However, I wouldn't file anything until I checked whether the reverse tang was hitting the plate when selecting fifth or sixth. I had about 30 thou clearance whilst holding the shifter firmly (not too firm!) to the right. If the shifter is grinding metal off the plate during every 5-6 shift, then maybe I'd file it.

Gomez.

Yes it seemed that there was not much clearance at all between the lockout and the plate (in neutral between 3-4). Of course I didn't realize that the clearance should be so small so I just assumed it wasn't right. If there is only supposed to be about .010 anyways, maybe it was fine. I am pretty sure it is hitting the plate and that's why I feel very little travel. Although if it is that fine of an amount I have to file, maybe it will just wear with time. Should I grease the lockout tab to make the shift from 4-5 smoother or is that dumb? Thanks.

RP: Is it that the distance between 1-2 and 3-4 should be the same as 3-4 and 5-6?

so your saying that if we remove material from the lockout tab, we'll be able to align the wall with the 5-6 throw?

sorry if i'm way off, but it seems like more material would be necessary to keep you from pushing the shifter too far to the right. either way, it really doesn't matter. you can easily learn to snipe 5th or 6th with ease after a little time behind the wheel.

Yes it seemed that there was not much clearance at all between the lockout and the plate (in neutral between 3-4). Of course I didn't realize that the clearance should be so small so I just assumed it wasn't right. If there is only supposed to be about .010 anyways, maybe it was fine. I am pretty sure it is hitting the plate and that's why I feel very little travel. Although if it is that fine of an amount I have to file, maybe it will just wear with time. Should I grease the lockout tab to make the shift from 4-5 smoother or is that dumb? Thanks.

RP: Is it that the distance between 1-2 and 3-4 should be the same as 3-4 and 5-6?

The plate is shaped the way it is to stop you forcing the shifter too far right. You don't want too much clearance. If the shifter is hitting the retainer plate with every 4-5-6 shift, firstly, try to reposition the retainer. There should be enough give there. Greasing the tab is a short term solution only.

I have never noticed the distance issue you refer to. The fact that the shifter is 1/4 inch shorter and the throw is an inch shorter will affect the leverage you have on the shifter. Maybe that's what you're noticing. There is naturally a tad more effort required to select each plane with this shifter.

Gomez.

Epitrochoid as I understand it, your situation is the reverse of mine. You have too much space between the lockout tab and the plate, allowing for 'overthrow' of 5-6. I actually seem to have not enough space. Although I can engage the gears (5-6) fine, I must use more pressure rightward than stock. Not much more, but enough that I might want to file the lockout tab a bit.

Like Gomez states, there seems to be enough play in the positioning of the tab against its bolts that we might be able to create and remove distance between the tab and plate. Its might just be enough to solve both of our problems. I will definitely look into it.

Gomez, I notice a definite reduction in the travel when I move the stick right (from 3-4 to 5-6), then left (3-4 to 1-2). Moving it left has a perfect amount of travel and engaging 1st is very definite. However when I move to the right, I have to use much more pressure to make sure that I am engaging 5th.

It seems that the lockout plate itself can be moved around before you tighten it. The holes are elliptical on mine.
I'd suggest those with a gating issue on 5/6 try loosening the hold down screws for the lockout plate and push it as far to the right as possible before you pull the shifter to file it.

In fact, I'd recommend elongating the holes in the plate before any other fix.

Gomez, I notice a definite reduction in the travel when I move the stick right (from 3-4 to 5-6), then left (3-4 to 1-2). Moving it left has a perfect amount of travel and engaging 1st is very definite. However when I move to the right, I have to use much more pressure to make sure that I am engaging 5th.

Yep.....if it's "too much", then you may be riding the retainer plate. Check the pic again, as MM says, the holes are elongated.

Gomez.

I will try it this weekend. Thanks guys.

Yes I believe the holes are elogated but there are tiny dowel pins. I'm now thinking that a person could file the dowel pins on the oposite side so it can be moved a slight bit. I may have not notice it if they are movable stock. That would answer all the questions wouldn't it? I don't have my own car yet so I can't go look. If you had some little needle files you could slot the dowel holes a little. These are much better ideas then filing the shifter be cause they are not permenant. If that plate can be moved a little then we are missing an install step.
If that plate can move we an just put it in 5/6 and push it up against the tab and tighten it for the perfect fit every time.

This would make me very happy to find an answer to this. I should have known MM would try it upside down and backwards if anyone did. Thanks to all of you for the tips. I had fear from a sales point of view whether to go public with a problem but decided to be up front. You guys did not disapoint me I feel good about it now. I couldn't ask for better reinforcement.

We have a group of clever techies here who love to share. I've never seen it so good except maybe with Bonniville racers. :)

I have been conversing via PM with Richard Paul regarding my shifter over the past week. I was having difficulty getting into 5th, like what epitrochoid experienced.

Richard is VERY interested in making this short shifter work for every RX-8. He has offered to buy it back if I am dissatisfied, but told him Hell No. This week I have relearned how to shift effectively with the new shifter.

This Short Shifter remains one of the best performance add-ons that exist for our RX-8's.

Richard I intend to do just that today actually. I am going to see if moving the plate just enough will solve my problem.

Yes I believe the holes are elogated but there are tiny dowel pins. I'm now thinking that a person could file the dowel pins on the oposite side so it can be moved a slight bit.

Ah yes, I didn't remember the dowel pins. trophymaker, this will make things a little more difficult. Before filing anything, check to see if you are riding the retainer on the 4-5-6 shifts. Then report back if you are. I think you will be better off filing the lockout tab, than removing the dowel(s). That way, the car can be returned to stock at a later point if required.

I think it's probably just stiff because of the revised geometry. Takes a while to get used too?? It will all become clearer with the two rubber shift boots off.

Gomez.

ill try and move the plate on mine and see if i have any luck, get back to you guys monday evening (no 8 until then :( )

I broke the damn rear R/H tab. Hehe.

I tried to move the plate... no luck. As stated earlier, the dowel pins locate it firmly. I am 'riding the wall' on the 4-5 and 5-6 shifts... It seems just enough to get it into 5th from 4th without drama. Its just that the space in between 3-4 and 5-6 is a good deal less than the space between 1-2 and 3-4. Maybe its because there isnt another retainer on the left side of the gates that keeps the stick from moving further left than necessary to engage first. I guess the flex in the ball joint adds as well. As a little test, while in 5th I can push down (longitudinally as if to engage reverse) on the stick and move a little to the right. I feel the tab going under the retainer, and if I let the stick go it kind of pops up and clears the tab. Is this normal? Maybe I could have done this with the stock stick as well.

I dont know if its a tolerance problem or if its a problem at all really. But 3 and 5, 4 and 6 feel awfully close. I will probably just get used to it. Any thoughts?

I'll vote for filing the tab a small amount, very small amount. It takes very little at the tab to make a difference on the stick. Try just a few strokes on the tab, see if you can feel it. Look and see if there is then some clearance when in 5/6.
Don't forget t9o use a fine file almost like a needle file.
In fact if you had a small enough needle file you could slot the dowel holes. These are very small holes though.

Hey Richard please refresh me, how much clearance should I be looking for when in 5/6? Like Gomez said, I think my best bet would be to file the tab a bit, and not mess with the stock plate.

RP, here's a question. The reverse rattle on my 8 is the tab riding against the the plate. After going into reverse it's able to come back up (unlike the stock shifter) and rest to the side of the plate. Filing or otherwise moving the plate to the right would seem to make this problem worse. I would think moving to the left would make the 5-6 gate tight. Is there a solution to keep easy 1-6 and not have reverse rattle?

you should have none to maybe .015. meaning you cannot go over the gate but get into it easy. having none like you do now isn't really none because there is pressure on it.

trial and error is how you're going to do it best. If the damn dowels were bigger I would make up some offset ones for cases like this. If I was more confident in not getting chips into the works I would re-dowel them on the car. Or remove the dowels set the plate where you want it and drill and tap some 6-32 button head allen screws to hold the alignment.

This could work for guys that miss being able to ride the wall. We could use the existing dowel holes for the screws. They will be offset from each other during the first drilling operation but with the three bolts holding it down it will not move. Therefore it will be fine. We just take the top plate off andtap the bottom. Then drill the top plate to clearance. Or you could tap them both together. That works.
Maybe even better with thin plates.

RP, here's a question. The reverse rattle on my 8 is the tab riding against the the plate. After going into reverse it's able to come back up (unlike the stock shifter) and rest to the side of the plate. Filing or otherwise moving the plate to the right would seem to make this problem worse. I would think moving to the left would make the 5-6 gate tight. Is there a solution to keep easy 1-6 and not have reverse rattle?


I think we are all fighting the same thing, factory tolorences. I seem to have found the middle ground as most of these are ok. It is just those on the outer ends of the range. We can't complain to Mazda so we have to work it out. My best solution is for guys with cars on the outer edge of the tolorence, keep the shifter and get a new Rx8. Test it before you buy it to see if the shifter works ok. ;)

Not a good idea? :confused: I said it was my best thought. My best, get it? me me me.

Ok got that out. :D

Only time will tell if there is a way to solve this for all cars. With all these minds working on it, we will prevail.
As to what the stock shifter does after reverse has to be the same as what mine does. There the operation is the same. The tab is under the plate while in reverse then pops up to form the lockout. It has to hit the plate to keep you out of the reverse gate. I think the tab is in the same place as the stock one as far as up and down goes. I will look at the print tomorrow and check it against the stock one. But even if it is off............... what am thinking if it was off it wouldn't work.
you can see it is right because it is even with the plate when poped up. In fact I remember we had to adjust this to find just the right hight.

Dosdog I don't think you have a problem. Your just going back to the clutch chatter when in revese. Let the clutch out and go faster, it will stop rattling.

I would agree except my OEM shifter stays under the plate in reverse. It does not come up beside the plate while still in reverse.

I would agree except my OEM shifter stays under the plate in reverse. It does not come up beside the plate while still in reverse.

If you could provide a pic, that would help....

I left my camera at work but imagine the shifter in 6th. The tab is against the plate riding even with it. To get into reverse, I push down and over and get into the reverse gate. When I take my hand off the shifter, the shifter comes up and the tab is able to go to the same position as sixth, even height with the plate while still in reverse. It does not stay under the plate in reverse as the OEM does.

Something sounds fishy. I need to pull mine apart and check again what happens with reverse selected. Going to work soon, so it'll have to be tomorrow....

I left my camera at work but imagine the shifter in 6th. The tab is against the plate riding even with it. To get into reverse, I push down and over and get into the reverse gate. When I take my hand off the shifter, the shifter comes up and the tab is able to go to the same position as sixth, even height with the plate while still in reverse. It does not stay under the plate in reverse as the OEM does.


I agree, that doesn't sound right. It's in the r gate but the shifter is in the 5/6 position? Seems your plate needs to come left a bunch. or maybe it just takes a little.
I'd like to see this picture also. Gomez has a unit from the same run as dosdog does. It will be good to see what he says.

I filed a bit off the tab on mine. It would barely shift into 5/6...it was really tight. After a small reduction, it is much smoother...it slips in if you are "riding the wall". Do you have the old style cup? Thats what mine was doing when the cup slipped below the spring....the tab would slide under the gate , and the lockout didn't work

dosdog does have the first cup but i don't think it is the same thing. i'll get him a new cup monday anyhow. his is just way over on the other side of the tolorence.

just an odd note to mess things up about tolorences, i have never really had to push down on the stock shifter to get into reverse. my rp shifter is zesty x 2.

beers

Dannobre, what kind of file did you use specifically? Did you just file little by little and keep re-trying the action?

I filed a bit off the tab on mine. It would barely shift into 5/6...it was really tight. After a small reduction, it is much smoother...it slips in if you are "riding the wall". Do you have the old style cup? Thats what mine was doing when the cup slipped below the spring....the tab would slide under the gate , and the lockout didn't work

Just used a "mill bastard" :D

Damn...got to say it and it's not a swear word :D

Be patient....SS is hard to file

I would use a crosscut file. A bastard is course.

If you were an Aussie you can use the word in every sentence if you like. It must have something to do with the out of wedlock rate.

I also gather that use in a written statement you leave out all the spaces. Like this: Mymategomezisafunnybastard. :D

I also gather that use in a written statement you leave out all the spaces. Like this: Mymategomezisafunnybastard. :D

Actually Richard, now I'm a shiftybastard..... ;)

Gunna have lunch and then take a few shifty pics....

I just wanted to use the word "Bastard" in a sentence the PC police couldn't take offense to. I used the "bastard" for the first bit...and then cleaned it up with a fine crosscut file :D

dAN, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU TOOK A BIT OFF THEN. i WOULDN'T THINK THAT NESSASARY.
Gomez are you taking pictures of the tab in reverse? Notice it didn't take me more then a line to notice the caps lock was on.

Bastard is not an obscenity in Australia, it's a term of endearment.

Owyagoinyacrankyolbastard?

dAN, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU TOOK A BIT OFF THEN. i WOULDN'T THINK THAT NESSASARY.
Gomez are you taking pictures of the tab in reverse? Notice it didn't take me more then a line to notice the caps lock was on.

Standby ya old bastard, all good things come to those that wait.

Oops, the bride has knocked off the camera and taken it, the V8, and the kids to her mothers for the weekend. The bad news is that her mother is 100 miles away...

All good things will come to those who wait a little longer..... :o

Richard, I know my shifter doesn't do what Dosdog's does, I paid particular attention to my sixth and reverse gear shifter position yesterday.

Dosdog, did you get your camera?

Gomez, just enjoy your single guy weekend while you can. Forget the stupid shifter, have some fun. Maybe go up to Hymee's Rum Factory. ;)

Dosdog get me a picture, I want to see what is going on there. On the two we did here that didn't happen. But then again non of the other stuff did either. :confused:

Here are pics of 5th and Reverse.

The reverse rattle occurs when the shifter raises even with the plate and vibrates hard against it. If you hold down the shifter and keep it under the plate there is no significant noise.

Here is comparison to OEM.

Seems to be quite a variation in where 5/6 is in different trannies?
Mine is more to the right....so much so that I had to trim the tab on the `shifter a bit to make the 5/6 shift easier..without having to push hard to the right.

What was the clearance of your OEM like?

Dos Dog, I want to see that shifter. I'll send you another one on Monday and you swap them out and send back the old one. It is possable that we could have a short tab somehow. I can't see how because it is set by the lathe operation. Like I once said those machines are doing stuff at night when no one is watching them. They are planing things against us. They must be stopped before they take over, see how easy it is for them to do things all by themselves to cause me trouble. Then while I'm distracted they modify themselves. Think about it they can make anything they want, guns even.

Soon they will be dispensing little droids at night. The droids will go hide until there are enough of them. I should give this to my son who works for Lucas on Star Wars Movies. He makes the droids and the dispenser.

What should the tab measure?

You can't get into 5th unless the tab hits the stopper on the right because of that plate held down by 3screws.

The reason you have to push down to go into reverse is so you can go below the stopper, get it?

Edit:Sorry Dos read ur post wrong, well incase anyone else wondered ^

Polak his tab is not reaching the plate. Which in itself isn't the end of the world. But if it is so short that it allows it to come back up then something is not right. We have yet to see the end of this tolorence thing. Looks like 90% plus fall into what we desgined for. Then there are a few wild ones. Only time will tell how many. So far only two maybe three out of 80+ sold. That's better then 95%.

If many show up I will design a dowel kit to adjust the plate on those that show up outside the box.

I'm just wondering if Dos Dogs isn't something that happened here. Stuff happens all the time. Once in awhile I'll find a part stuck between a machine and a toolbox. Someone scraped it and didn't want to say. I don't know why, I'd just as soon see it in the trash then shipped, they know that in the shop. Yet you never know when a guy gets freaked it might be his third one that day. Even I have limits.

So we will look at this one and see if a replacment unit fixes it. We are not like car dealers, sometimes it can be our fault. We don't try and blame it on the consumer.
I'm not going to tell you if you put a Hymee Supercharger on your car that your shifter isn't covered anymore. :rolleyes: But that is athought. ;)

Where are you anyway Polak we are supposed to get my website running. And my E mail address. Everyone knows I can't come to grips with the computer so go ahead rub it in. :( They just didn't have this stuff when I was growing up.

Ahh yes, but can you work a sliderule? Do you even know what one is?
I have two, a pocket double log and a standard desk size.

Where are you anyway Polak we are supposed to get my website running. And my E mail address. Everyone knows I can't come to grips with the computer so go ahead rub it in. :( They just didn't have this stuff when I was growing up.

Ahh yes, but can you work a sliderule? Do you even know what one is?
I have two, a pocket double log and a standard desk size.
Haha, my high school physics teacher made us learn how to use one. They're actualyly kinda neat. Old-fashion, but neat.

Since I'm having a difficult time getting into sixth I'm watching this thread closely. With the shifter in neutral it will move 11/16" to the left, 7/16" to the right. From fourth gear the distance is 7/16" to second gear and 5/16" to sixth.

I figure I need to file a bit off the tab myself. When I remove it to file I'll check the OEM shifter for movement. Maybe you already know, should the movement be equal left to right of neutral?

Mel

I should mention that I like the shifter very much, overall performance is great, shifts one through five are great, just take more effort to get it into sixth which will hang occasionally and require going back to neutral to try again.

Old-fashion, but neat.
Kelly Johnson designed the entire SR-71/A-11/YF-12A program using one.
They didn't have computers yet.
U2 was the same way.

Since I'm having a difficult time getting into sixth I'm watching this thread closely. With the shifter in neutral it will move 11/16" to the left, 7/16" to the right. From fourth gear the distance is 7/16" to second gear and 5/16" to sixth.

I figure I need to file a bit off the tab myself. When I remove it to file I'll check the OEM shifter for movement. Maybe you already know, should the movement be equal left to right of neutral?

Mel

I should mention that I like the shifter very much, overall performance is great, shifts one through five are great, just take more effort to get it into sixth which will hang occasionally and require going back to neutral to try again. No, the distance going left should be larger then the distance going right because the tab is hitting the right side of the triangular plate, if it hits the stopper too soon or too late you'll have trouble getting into 5th and 6th. Do not file the tab, adjust the plate first.

Richard do you have a paypal account?
Jeff need to speek with you on AIM again.

That's what we have been kicking around, you can't move the plate due to the dowels. If this keeps up I'm going to develop a dowel kit. Or I might start taking a little off the tab at the factory. Trouble with that is the guys who are in the middle of the tolorence will loose the rub against the wall thing.

Starting tomorrow I'm going to polish .010 off the tab on outgoing shifters. That can't hurt the cars on the other end. What we are tring to do is get to the center of the tolorence.

i think ill just stick some chewed bubble gum on my tab, once it hardens up it ought to line me right up with 5 and 6

really though, since we can't move the plate is there anything for people in my situation? or am I the only one?

Dannobre, maybe you can elaborate a bit more on how you filed your tab. It seems those of use with too little travel have a quick fix.

Those with too much travel, causing reverse to pop out, not being able to ride the wall etc., might not have a good fix unless they get an elongated tab.

i think ill just stick some chewed bubble gum on my tab, once it hardens up it ought to line me right up with 5 and 6

really though, since we can't move the plate is there anything for people in my situation? or am I the only one?

Remind me, which way was yours?

OK I'm going to make a kit for guys who need to move the plate. It will just be a pair of 6-32 button head allen screws, a drill and a tap. Also I will include 3 new screws for the hold down plate as they will have to go allen in order to clear the new button heads.

The idea is to put the plate where you want it in 6th gear. Then drill and tap the holes where the pins used to be. Because you removed them before lining it up.
The holes will be misaligned but the three bolts keep them from moving while you drill.

Put it in a vice with soft jaws...filed it a bit...tried it in...better, but not quite enough...returned to vice...few more swipes..polish with a fine file...perfect

Didn't measure it with a caliper..before and after...couldn't have been much.

Could have trimmed the plate as well....much cheaper to replace if you F**K up :D

Well I figured I'd post this here since this seems to be the active RP shifter thread, even though the topic seems to have drifted slightly. Just installed the RP shifter tonight. While they're refresh, I thought I'd share my impressions in case anyone is considering one.

The good:
-very easy to install. You need one 10mm socket, preferrably one with a bit of depth. You need to take out the center console, the ash-tray, the shift boot plate (4 bolts) and the lockout plate (3 bolts).

-shifts are very short, shorter than a Miata transmission. Outstanding feel, very tight, snick-snick type throws.

-at least on my car, there is no noise from the shifter in reverse.

-again, on my car, the 5-6 shift is very smooth and direct and I can 'ride the wall' to make the shift without any issues.

-the lockout plate and tab work fine, and reverse actually feels easier to get into than stock.

The bad:
-the shifter transmits significant noise into the cabin. Personally, this doesn't bother me, but it might to some people. You can hear the syncros and also a bit of road noise. Its not overly loud, but definetly noticable. That seems to be the only negative I can find so far. Aside from that, I don't understand why Mazda didn't put a shifter like this on the car to begin with.

So overall I am very happy. Richard Paul makes a great product and his shipping and response times are outstanding. The only suggestion I have is perhaps he could print up a small little diagram or instructions on installation. Yes, it was incredibly easy to do, but I had to look on this forum to find out what it entailed. If I had known it was this easy, I wouldn't have hesitated at all about buying one.

....The only suggestion I have is perhaps he could print up a small little diagram or instructions on installation. Yes, it was incredibly easy to do, but I had to look on this forum to find out what it entailed. .......

Do you know about this?:
DIY: RP (AFE) Short Shifter install (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=53914)

Richard Paul,
Do you think the RPSS rounded reverse lockout tab vs the OEMs flat tab could be a factor contributing to the 5/6 issue?
rx8cited

No, but the radius makes it easier to file down. Today i'm going to try to polish .010 off of a couple and see what that does. Like i said the dowel kit isn't that hard but i would like to solve it another way. I just counted and we have shipped 72 units and the problems seem to be with about five at the worst.
If a little trim helps then the problem is over except for the one that is too short. One out of 72 wouldn't be bad design considering the tolorences. I think that one unit is a abnormality and will not repeat again. We shall know when I send him another shifter. :confused:

I mentioned in Gomez' DIY thread that I had installed the shifter -- thought I'd mention it here too since this is where all the (current) discussion is. In simple words, I LOVE IT!! Way to go Richard, and thanks again Gomez for the super-excellent DIY.

I haven't had any issue with the 5-6 shift at all. Guess my car is closer to the middle of the tolerance. The shifter was pretty noisy initially, kind of a "hydraulic pump cavitating" sound when shifting, if that makes any sense. That completely went away after driving it about 10 miles and doing some full-pattern shifts. Now it's just as quiet as the stock shifter. If anyone installs one, don't be too worried with the noise when you first fire up the car for a test drive. If it's anything like mine, it'll go away. May just need some time to get the tranny oil up into the works.

Beyond that, the shifter is awesome. Positive and better feel, much shorter throws, and more precise feeling. No way I could ever go back to the stock shifter. Anyone with a manual tranny ought to seriously consider getting one.

Best,
Bill

Getting rid of the gear whine is a good trick, sure you didn't just change stations to KILR FM :D

Getting rid of the gear whine is a good trick, sure you didn't just change stations to KILR FM :D :D:p Naw, Gomez, I don't even listen to the audio system much.

One thing I forgot to mention: I spent probably 15 aggravating minutes trying to release the inside tab on the shift boot cover. Tried it both from the inside of the cup holder location, and tried again through the opening at the back of the e-brake. Arrggh. For a few minutes, I didn't think I was even going to be able to install the shifter. I finally decided to try something else. I inserted a wide, flat-blade screwdriver between the silver outer trim and the black plastic of the boot cover, and gently pried to the right. Popped right out almost instantly! No scratches or chips, although due caution is advised if going that route. Sure took care of that little obstacle.

Best,
Bill

Okay then.....

Richard, have you made any changes to the cup at the bottom of the shifter? That's the only component I imagine you could change that would reduce the whine being transmitted into the cabin........

Gomez.

Okay then.....

Richard, have you made any changes to the cup at the bottom of the shifter? That's the only component I imagine you could change that would reduce the whine being transmitted into the cabin........

Gomez.
One other thought: I'm running Redline MT-90 synthetic oil in my transmission. For those that are experiencing the gear whine, do you have the stock tranny oil, or have you changed to something different? I'm not getting any gear whine at all, at least no more than the stock shifter.

Just a thought...
Bill

Yep, I have that in my gearbox. Did nothing at all. I suppose it helps some shifting issues in extreme climates though.

Yep, I have that in my gearbox. Did nothing at all. I suppose it helps some shifting issues in extreme climates though.
Hiya Gomez,

Well, I'm starting to believe that I have a truly charmed RX-8. Never flooded, no screeching brakes, no rattles/squeaks, no misfires, no nothing that is regularly discussed as problems or issues in these pages. The only issue that I've had is one CEL. I cleared it myself, and it hasn't come back since. And yes, I'm knocking on wood....:D:D

Best,
Bill

Nope, The only change is to the pivot box. Gomez, you can get to test that because there is a new pivot box at Hymee's for you. The only change there is to the OD, it is 2mm bigger. That is to prevent the spring retainer from rising up over.
I can't see how it lowerers the whine any. Then again everything effects the frequency of things.

Anyone else needing a new pivot box they are available now. I have some made out to first unit owners so you might wait to see if I have you covered.

Btw guys I help Richard set up a Paypal button as a temporary solution to his website construction issues, the link to purchase can be found here.

http://www.axialflow.com/products.html

Doos Dog, Did you get the new shifter I sent? If so is it in there yet?
I don't remember what day I shipped it. Let me know. When you do get it send the old one back so I can inspect it.

Got the new pivot box today..........10 days to get it here....postal service is sure slow over the border. Easy to change out. Just pushed the old one off...and pushed the new one on....piece of cake :D

Nothing yet.

I installed a short throw shifter in my 1992 300zx...I could not tell a big difference. I think the short throw shifter benefit is mainly all Hype.

I could theorize a benefit if you had a shifter that was ~1.5' tall, such as in some old muscle cars, late 80's ford escorts etc.... but not for the RX8 that already have super compact shifters.

I installed a short throw shifter in my 1992 300zx...I could not tell a big difference. I think the short throw shifter benefit is mainly all Hype.

I could theorize a benefit if you had a shifter that was ~1.5' tall, such as in some old muscle cars, late 80's ford escorts etc.... but not for the RX8 that already have super compact shifters. This particular item is a short-throw shifter.
It doesn't make the shifter itself much lower. Instead, it shortens the distance from gear to gear.
The throw of the OEM shifter is quite long - requiring your entire arm to push and pull from gear to gear. This is odd in comparison to the Miata, which has one of the greatest transmission shfters ever concieved.

RP's unit converts the RX-8 shifter to nearly the Miata's same feel and throw.


P.S. - in your SIG you note "People who have nothing of value to add, tell other people to search when they post."
Though that is essentially correct, it does not convey much truth about the situation.
Most of the people who indicate that someone should search when the information is readily available are the individuals that already provided the entire body of neccesary information on the subject.
In this particular instance, a simple search of this thread would have revealed the same answer that I provided here about the nature of this item.
I suggest you spend some time searching yourself and less time admonishing those that suggest the same.

I think the short throw shifter benefit is mainly all Hype.
Quit smoking that wacky backy my friend, and read a couple posts in this thread.
:rolleyes:

I installed a short throw shifter in my 1992 300zx...I could not tell a big difference. I think the short throw shifter benefit is mainly all Hype.

So, you installed a shifter made by someone else into a totally different car, and therefore feel qualified to comment on this shifter in the RX-8? I don't know about anyone else, but I'm laughing my ass off.....at you.

Having driven a few 300ZX's with short throw shifters installed I can agree with Jaguar in that the short throw shifter "FOR THE 300ZX" IS all hype. Didn't really shorten the throw all that much and made the shifter feel a bit "clunky".

Regarding RP's SS shifter for the RX8, I have heard nothing but great things said about it. I too would love to have that snick-snick feel to the rx8 shifter and feel that the current throws are a tad bit long.

Having driven a few 300ZX's with short throw shifters installed I can agree with Jaguar in that the short throw shifter "FOR THE 300ZX" IS all hype. Didn't really shorten the throw all that much and made the shifter fell a bit "clunky".

Regarding RP's SS shifter for the RX8, I have heard nothing but great things said about it. I too would love to have that snick-snick feel to the rx8 shifter and feel that the current throws are a tad bit long. I will be purchasing one in the near future.

Jaguar MBA, with all due respect, your comparison is absurd and there are two multi-page threads singing nothing but praise for RP's unit!

;)

i have found something bad about the rp shifter. after having it in for about 10 days and 2 tanks of gas it has some how lowered my gas mileage.


THANKS RP
beers

after having it in for about 10 days and 2 tanks of gas it has some how lowered my gas mileage.
Same here. Since I put it in, I just can't seem to keep my foot out of the pedal. I'm having way, way too much fun. :D

Ditto the thanks to RP!!

Bill

And the defense rests. Without me having to take the stand. Thank you folks.

Dosdog, I sent another shifter out tpday. Don't know what happened to the other one. It wiill show up here or at your place someday. Worst case you have to mail me two.

Who else out there did I exchange a shifter with? Please send back the other one so I can inspect it. I need to mike these tabs to see what is happening.

I miked one today and it was just under 25mm At this point I'm leaning towards making them 24.7. That's why I need to see the old ones. We are about down to a level where we need to run some more and I'd like to see if we can get to the best possable tolorence so eliminate these odd man out deals. No one wants to be that guy.

Stevie Gomez, did you take any picture of the old and new generation RP shifter and if so, post it, please ;)

There are differences that Gomez pointed out to me when I visited him on Thursday. It is a bloody impressive piece of metal ! :D

RP have all the tolerance issues been ironed out? I want this shifter, but as you stated above I dont want to be one of the 5% that is the "odd man out".

Well Cam I think we have a handle on it and all the ones going out from now on have a new sized tab. Hopfully not enough to bother the ones on the other side but we have taken .25mm or .010" from the tab. The feedback I have gotten so far tells me we are about spot on. Obviously if adjusting by that small amount makes the difference then we must be close.

If it needs more then that will be, just taking it easy. You know, if you cut it off twice it can still be too short.

Good to hear.

I have a bonus check coming next week and will be placing my order.

RP,

I was comparing Gomez's new one, the old one and my one and see the tab to lock the reverse gear comes in different size (and thickness). Gomez has the most beefy one, following by mine and it is slightly bigger than the original.

I cannot see any problem with mine, going in and out of reverse is not a problem at all. So far I feel the 3rd and 5th is closer than 1st and 3rd. Is that normal?

Folks chill out, I made no direct reference to any brand of Short Shifter, but show me some consistent 1/4 mile pulls with the short thrower shifter, ceteris paribus. (You do not really have to show me :-) )

For example. I will make the following comparison to share with you one possible view of a scenario: The modern RX cars have much better exhaust system then prior RX vehicles. By changing out the exhaust system you could unleash ~15+HP or so with the older vehicles. Racing Beat says that the new design only allows a max of 3-4HP gain max by changing the muffler,ceteris paribus . The days of easy HP gains are basically over. I do not believe modern day car mfgs leave a whole lot of untapped potential in the shifter....just like they do not with the exhaust and other system of the RX8.

I hear the same things on the twinturbo.net web site (300zx): This short throw shifter is great....install it and hold on tight...... Can't believe what I was missing...etc etc The same type of domestic consumption as we have here...."Domestic Consumption" is being used in the political term above too.

So it is GREAT that people are having such good results with the Shifter. Maybe Mazda left a lot of potential in it. OK you all can start berating me again for offering a different view. :-)

So it is GREAT that people are having such good results with the Shifter. Maybe Mazda left a lot of potential in it. OK you all can start berating me again for offering a different view. :-)
You viewpoint is basically worthless as you haven't tried the RP shifter. 'Nuff said.

Jaguar: This shifter is not a performance mod in the sense that you will see some gains in 1/4 mile times. This is a mod that greatly, GREATLY improves shifter feel and precision. It shortens the throw to the point of being perfect. The shorter throw allows you to get in higher and clutch up right as the revs drop to the matching rpm. The stock shifter does not compare.

Read the reviews in this thread. EVERYONE that tries this shifter says it is worth the money and more. And these are some of the most critical people around.

Richard,

The new shifter arrived today. Much better but I suspect there is still a little too much play for my tranny since I can still slip up beside the plate while in reverse. I was not able to get the OEM shifter to do this even with effort. If the tab were just slightly longer it would be perfect for "my transmission". I think this one will be OK though as the shifter functions correctly and you can not get into reverse without first going under the plate. This one is closer to the plate than the previous shifter and so far doesn't rattle in reverse as the first one did. You can see from the picture the tabs are different in the two RP shifters, the latter being more similar to OEM. Also, the first shifter would sometimes hang going into 6th. This shifter rides the plate directly down and seems much better. I suspect the plate adjusting kit is going to be the only way to get it just right for every tranny and hopefully will only be required for the few of us on the outside edges of the range. Thanks again for a great product.

Dosdog, can you tell me if the shifter you just got has a radius on the tab or is it square like the stock one. Or can you measure it. Nose to back of shaft, about 25mm+/-

I have a few sizes I have made to try and find the sweet spot. I thought I sent you the longer of the ones i made. Let me know because I'm getting ready to run another batch.

The tab is square

I'll send you a radius one. I think that is just enough to make it perfect for you.

Thanks, I appreciate you making the extra effort to get this just right. That's not common these days.

That's not common these days.
He's old....... fashioned :p

That's not common these days.
No, it sure isn't. But it sure is appreciated. Looking at the quality of this shifter and the price Richard is charging for it, I think it's completely safe to say that he's not getting rich building them. I think it's admirable to see the lengths RP goes to for complete customer satisfaction, which as you say, DosDog, is pretty rare in this day and age.

Best,
Bill

I just started another thread asking about build dates. The fact came up that there was a shift fork change in early production. Any of you that have had the problem of 5/6 engagment and had to shorten the tab have an early build date?

Lets collect some of this info and if it is so I can predict this and make a special unit for those cars. Buyers could just give me the build date and get the right shifter.

couldn't find the thread...

Dannobre Build date 11/03

I think we got it. Three cars that needed to shorter tab had build dates of 8/03, 9/03 and 11/03. Anyone else with numbers that early that did not have trouble? That will be the test to see if we have an answer. :)

Mine is OZ 09-03 build.

I just drive a lot more today. I am ok. Although I feel like there is a different between 3 and 5th (5th bein a touch closer). But I have no trouble at all engaging 5th. And certainly not have any problem going in and out of reverse.

Certainly a shorter tab will feel better but what if it is too short? It may got out of the reverse?! Gomez certainly detected no problem.

Ah.... Richard, I have to eat my word about doubting you in the beginning. I have been always a suckers for Japanese advertising and not been able to trust the world of mouth in the Honda scene... YOU HAVE NO IDEA what sort of people there are in the type R forums. I suddenly feel like I am with people (here) that are classy, honest and genuine. If I ever come to Califonia for a World Pathology Conference. I will certainly look you up, I think I owe you a SUPERSIZE beer ;)

Cheers
Taka

Mine is 09/03

Build Date May 2003
My Short Shifter tab is too short. I cannot ride the wall, and put it in 5th gear. Have to keep it away from the wall to get it in 5th.

So much for your theory Richard.....

9/03 - I can ride the wall into 5th or 6th perfectly.

Stock it felt like I had to push it hard toward the passenger - in 6th at least. 5th used to require a quick right-then-up. Now I can go directly into 5th.

Very satisfied overall. :D

rxeightr,

Sounds like yours is similar to mine. I'll let you know how the radius'd long tab version works.

When the results don't match the theory, get a new theory. (just added that to my signature) I want to thank you guys for all the help and interaction. I had thought my theory was great when I went to bed last night, the glass was half full. Wake up and the glass is half empty. So it goes.


So, it looks like if it is too short you can live with it, but too long it must be shortened. I could leave it long and then everyone would have to tune it for their own car. That would be a lot of unnessasary work for most people since there are just a very few that are outside the working tolorence. For now I think I will handle it on the case basis.



Everything I can think of requires extra work for the consumer, that's not good.
Right now we have over 95% good fits and getting better. I've only got one left right now and am going to finalize the size for any changes so as to run some more next week. The last few I sent out were trimmed .010" and have had no problems, so I'm looking at that for the standard trim.

Looks like if they were all that size Dosdog would be the only case of problem.
That would be 1 in a hundred. Now don't you feel special Dosdog? Your the one percential. I feel confident enough with the last sizing so as to run a hundred more.

Thanks again, we are waiting on Dosdog to tell us how his new one works.
That one is a full radius untrimmed unit.

I

Oops, 8/03 build date.

9/03 - I can ride the wall into 5th or 6th perfectly.

Stock it felt like I had to push it hard toward the passenger - in 6th at least. 5th used to require a quick right-then-up. Now I can go directly into 5th.

Very satisfied overall. :D
Nevermind 8 or 9/03

I have the EXACT same feel. I guess it is ok & I love it.

Richard,

This last one is right on. Tab stays under in reverse and is just a smidge off the plate in 5th and 6th. No rattles. No problems getting into any gear. I had a chance to push it pretty hard today on the our Stanford Run. Lot's of quick 1 - 2 - 3 - 1 shifts on some pretty tight roads. Never missed a shift and the feel is perfect.

Many thanks, again!

Richard,

First off I have to say thanks for the surprisingly fast shipping. I had the box ripped open as soon as the post man dropped it off. The install was pretty simple with Gomez's instructions but I did have a slight problem with the tab.

Gears 1-6 worked great and 5-6 were just lightly riding against the wall. Reverse however was another story. No matter how hard I pressed down on the shifter I couldn't get the tab to slide beneath the plate. It was just off by a couple thousandths of an inch but it was still enough to keep it from going into reverse. So I added a small chamfer (~0.010" 45 degrees) to the top edge of the tab and it works awesome now.

Now if the axial flow supercharger is as slick as the shifter you will definitely have a repeat customer. :D

P.S. May 2003 build date