Today I finally installed my SS clutch hose from Rotary Performance. Please refrain from posting until I get all of the sections posted - I will let you know when I am done. Thank you. This and draining and filling my transmission with Red Line took me a total of 2.5 hours. Could have gone faster, but I was being meticulous.

Tools needed:
Pliers
combination wrench, 8mm..................Bleed screw
combination wrench, 10mm................Clutch pipe fitting
combination wrench, (14mm)11/16.....Clutch hose fitting
DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid*
Recommended tools:
SpeedBleeder, SB7100
Bleeder hose
latex glove
1 Plastic baggie
1 Rubber band

Preface
Speedbleeder almost saved my butt. A worthwhile investment. I highly recommend the speedbleeder, and not just because of the obvious reason. If I were 10 pounds heavier
and opted to NOT use the Speedbleeder, I might've gotten into a real jam. If you DO get the Speedbleeder, install it FIRST - before you replace the clutch hose. If you
DON'T get the speedbleeder, then test-fit a wrench on your bleed screw FIRST before you replace the clutch hose. That little bugger is in the worst possible spot, and you
don't want to wait until you've put air into the system to find out you can't get to it. Also, I used syntrix's latex glove idea. That worked beautifully - not a single
drip on the firewall.
On brake fluid: I used DOT4 because of the higher boiling point and all that. I don't know, I'm not an expert, but everyone seems to recommend this. Seems logical to me.
Be careful if you see DOT5 on the shelf. The ones I've seen indicate they will dork up ABS systems, and since our brakes and clutch share a resorvoir probably a bad idea.
Although, I believe MOTUL and some of the other high-end manufacturers have ABS-safe DOT5, but it is significantly more expensive than DOT4 anyway. So, there you have it.

1. Take 1 latex glove, and cut it into 1 sheet about 3" diameter. If the gloves are powdered, rinse thoroughly with plain water and DRY thoroughly. Open clutch fluid resorvoir, and stretch over opening. Close cap over stretched latex. This will reduce the amount of fluid lost during the procedures.

2. Raise the car, or whatever you do to get under there (I used a lift). See the photo to help locate the bleed screw. Yep, it is right behind the oil filter pedestal. Nope, you probably can't get a wrench on it from above - I know I could not. From under the car, you reach up with the 8mm wrench just forward of the crossmember. Reach way high, get the wrench on there and give about a 16th of a turn. That's about as far as you'll get before having to reset the wrench. Very tedious, but don't give up. Just keep at it. Eventually you'll get it to where you can reach up over the transmission bell housing and get a thumb and forefinger on it. It's a little bit quicker, but not much. Oh, and if you drove to your install location you will burn your wrist and forearm on the tranny. Suggest a cool car for this detail and/or some rags over the transmission.

3. Once the bleed screw comes out, try to catch it (or drop it, whatever). Now get your Speedbleeder and try to finger tighten it in there. Once it is tight, use the 8mm wrench again.
WARNING: The Speedbleeder will stick out a little farther than the OEM bleedscrew. If it feels tight, STOP. Don't try to torque it, thinking it is not all the way in. The way to check is to get out from under the car, open the door, and depress the clutch pedal. If it feels normal and comes back, then the Speedbleeder is tightened. If you over-torque it it will break and then you will really be sorry.

4. From the engine bay, drop the end of the bleeder hose down through the mess of hoses and work it unto the speedbleeder. Now you're set to install the clutch hose.

I decided to start with the bottom, so that most of the drainage would happen down below, rather than up near the firewall (it's painted, you know). Suggest putting a drip pan under the hose location.

1. First you must remove the retaining clip (photo 1). Use a normal pair of pliers to grab the lip and wiggle and pull. It will slide out fairly easily, exposing a hole larger than the end of the hose fitting (probably didn't need to say that, but hey there's a picture for ya (#2), too).

2. Get your 11/16 open-end wrench (I think it is 14mm, but I didn't have that. 11/16 fit perfectly) around the nutted(?) collar behind the mounting bracket, and get your 10mm around the clutch pipe fitting. Loosen all the way. Once it unscrews completely, the clutch pipe fitting can slide freely away from the clutch hose. You might as well let some fluid drain out before proceeding.

3. Push the hose fitting up out of the hole. Drop the end into a baggie and wrap with a rubber band (photo 3). I did this for neatness. Yeah, I'm OCD, what of it?

Now we work topside to remove the other end...

4. Repeat steps 1-2 (above) from under the hood (photo 1). Lower the hose fitting free of the hole, then carefully pull the entire hose up out of the engine bay.

You will notice some differences (photo 2) between the OEM hose and the SS hose (RP's, anyway). You can see that the fitting is beefier, which makes it a little easier to keep your wrench on. You'll also notice the OEM hose is pretty limp (you can't tell from the photo, but it is pretty floppy)...

1. Lower the SS hose down through the engine bay and push the fitting up through the mounting bracket. Screw the clutch pipe fitting into the clutch hose fitting. Use your wrenches to tighten them. Re-insert the retaining clip. To get it in, push up on the hose fitting and slide the yokes into the groove. Carefully tap it into place using your pliers or something. See photo 1.

2. From under the car, adjust the routing of the hose as necessary so there is no kinking. Push the hose fitting through the bracket hole and re-attach the clutch pipe. Insert the clip. This one was a bit a of a pain for me - I had to wiggle the hose fitting to expose some groovage for the yokes to get into. Tapping is more difficult, too, as there isn't as much room down here.

You're done. It should look something like photo 2.

1. Loosen the Speedbleeder about 1/4 turn. It really doesn't take much. Make sure your bleeder hose is aiming for something suitable.

2. Open the fuid resorvoir lid and discard the latex glove. Check to make sure no bits of torn latex fell into the resorvoir - it has a filter so it won't get too far. Fill the resorvoir to MAX.

3. From inside the car, push the clutch pedal to the floor. It should push easy and stay down by itself. If you feel pressure and it returns, you need to loosen the bleeder a bit more.

4. Pump the pedal 25 times at a normal rate of speed. If using your hand, You should be able to look down and see the fluid spurting out of the bleeder hose. After 25 pumps, the resorvoir will be at MIN. Top it off to MAX.

5. Repeat step 4 as many times as you desire, making sure that: a)you get a solid flow of fluid through the bleeder hose; and b)the fluid doesn't look filthy. If the fluid in the bleeder hose has gaps, that is air from the system. Keep bleeding until there is no more air.

6. Tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and snap on the dust-cap. It's easier to do the dust cap from the engine bay. Now that the Speedbleeder sticks out farther, it is more easily accessed than the OEM screw was. You can see what I mean in photo 1.

7. Pump the clutch pedal. It should have normal pressure and return smartly.

8. Clean up and make a sandwich - you're done. It's a good idea to do a brake check before driving anywhere. If you used the latex glove, there should never have been the slightest chance of air getting into the brake lines. If you didn't - I don't know, check them and let me know.

Now we are done completely, and feel free to post replies now.
I'll post my impressions in a bit, after I clear out my new post indicators.

Nice writeup. What do you think the foam covering on the OEM hose was for? Heat protection maybe?

My guess would be some heat protection, plus maybe an additional barrier against oil deterioration of an already minute hose...it also seems like it helps reduce the chance of a hard kink in the hose.

MT-90
A very slight improvement in gear rowing, which was great to begin with, and the synchros seem to work a little bit better. This is a great longevity mod, though, and that is enough to make it worthwhile. Also, it compliment the new clutch hose very well.

SS Clutch Hose
There was not a huge difference at first. The clutch didn't feel any different pulling out of the parking lot and trawling around. As I got out onto the major roads and came up on some corners, I began to notice something interesting. Clutch engagement and disengagement was very consistent. Every time I pressed and released it - no matter which gear, no matter what rpm - the engagement/disengagement was in precisely the same spot. I found myself, as a result, shifting the gears much quicker and consistently cleaner than before. I began to realize what had bothered me so much about the clutch before. Most of the time you nailed the engagement exactly right, and sometimes...not so much. It was really flighty. Sometimes it would grind a gear, sometimes it wouldn't. Of course, there was the dreaded redline 1-2 shift, which admittedly had become pretty rare with me, but I could always feel the propensity for that. Now, the 1-2 is very clean and quick, and it really improves the confidence of your clutching and gear changes. By confidence, I mean confidence that when you move your hands and feet the car will do what you intended, rather than grind and leave you coasting, or bog (hesitate) after the changeup.

In summation, it's not a "subtract tenths from your 1/4-mile" type of mod, but it is a definite improvement in the driveability and road manners of the car. It's a mod that empowers you. My car is not any faster than it was, but I think the driver is...

Awesome install and great writeup! I am still waiting on my MS clutch line from CZ to be delivered. I do not think I will install mine DIY style, but your instructions are pretty convincing enough to make me think about it though...

Was this the Mazdaspeed line you installed by the way?

Awesome install and great writeup! I am still waiting on my MS clutch line from CZ to be delivered. I do not think I will install mine DIY style, but your instructions are pretty convincing enough to make me think about it though...

Was this the Mazdaspeed line you installed by the way?No, this one was from Rotary Performance in Garland, TX. I've dealt with RP a few times in the past and they have always been outstanding. They were the first to offer an SS clutch hose, so I had decided back then to get it. I don't know if there is much difference between the MS line and RP's line. This one is braided stainless steel with a clear outer sheath - PVC or something. It was really inexpensive, so I went for it.

As for the install, if you've ever done any clutch or hydraulic work at all, it is extremely easy. If you haven't, it may seem like an intimidating task, but it really is pretty easy. It's just one of those that if you start, you want to be able to finish. If you normally do fine with hard to reach fasteners and such, then it is not a big deal. But if you are easily "owned" by hard to reach fasteners then you may want to let a professional handle it. Your car will be undrivable if you give up halfway through. Not to scare you or anything, just trying to be realistic. Also, the clutch bleeding procedure is different if you don't have the Speedbleeder. A normal bleeder requires 2 people to do it (or a Mighty-Vac). I've tried other 1-man kits, and they've all sucked. I've found the Mighty-Vac to work pretty well, too, but it can be a pain having to constantly empty the little container; plus you work under the car which makes constantly getting up and down to top off the resorvoir a pain.

B-Nez,

Nice write up! This should make it easy for other people to follow in your footsteps.

Have you installed stainless brake lines? If you haven't, they should be next on your list. They are easier to install than the clutch line because they are more accessible and they really change the feel of the brakes: rock hard pedal with excellent modulation. It's all good. :D

Awesome install and great writeup! I am still waiting on my MS clutch line from CZ to be delivered. I do not think I will install mine DIY style, but your instructions are pretty convincing enough to make me think about it though...

Was this the Mazdaspeed line you installed by the way?
What was the part number and $ for the MS cluch line from CZ , I don't see it listed on their site ?
Thanks in advance

What was the part number and $ for the MS cluch line from CZ , I don't see it listed on their site ?
Thanks in advance

I'll PM you this info.

No, I don't have SS brake lines. I'd like to do that, too, but I can't really convince myself to sink another couple hundred bucks in car parts right now. See, my other obsession is clothes shopping, so I gotta balance the two...:D

After your next shopping spree you can add them to your wish list. ;)

You should be able to pick up a set for less than $150. I went with a set from Agency Power and have been happy with them so far. The construction is the same as your clutch line, stainless steel braid with a clear plastic jacket.

I just saw Corksport has a set for $89. That is a steal. You can even specify color. Putting that one in the memory bank.

Wow, that really is a steal if it is for all four brake lines! :D

It is for all four! Just picked up a pair. That has to be the best deal going. Better get yourself a pair before someone at corksport notices!

Wow, excellent DIY B-Nez. Great contribution!!!:D

Thanks, Omicron. Glad I could post something other than my usual drivel. :D

hey...was your uppepr clutch pipe difficult to undo...?
i need a new clutch pipe now cuz the bolts were SO tight that i stripped the nutz (had right sizes)i dont know HOW they stipped the wrenches fit perfect....and the pipe is a lil bent now...

No, mine loosened right up really easy. Sorry to hear you had trouble. This is a REALLY stupid question, but are you sure you were turning the wrenches the right way? Again, forgive the dumb question. Is it all still in tact and functioning, at least?

lol, don't be bothered i was concerned aobut the same thing buti had three people WATCH me and agree ti was the right way) it's no biggy...but my prob is ...how much is a clutch pipe?

Kinda off topic (sorry), but do you know if it is the same speed bleeder part number for the brakes?

Thanks,

Slavearm

The correct part for RX-8 brakes was posted on this forum somewhere, but don't remember. All I can say is search - sorry, dude, if I knew I'd tell ya. What I'm wondering is if you can bleed a dry system just using the one bleeder...

IF YOU HAVE $50 DO THIS MOD. I CAN TELL A HUGE DIFFERENCE SINCE START UP!
NO MORE GEAR GRINDING!!! NO MORE (cluthc not all the way in) BEST MOD EVER!

Thanks! This is an awsome DIY. I plan to do this. I have a parts question. Does RP carry the SB7100 as well? If not where were you able to pick it up? From searching I only see Speedbleeder direct to be my best bet but hell, shipping is more than the part. Thanks!

This is the best DIY instruction set so far. I followed each step, even got the speedbleeders valve kit for the whole car. A big thanks to you B-NEZ... the RX8 community should do this simple but worthwhile mod. A big positive as you have mentioned already is the consistent clutch engagement point... you were spot on with your description. I got the mazdaspeed braided clutchline... and I am also considering changing over my brake lines to mazdaspeed. Thanks to you... that job will be alot easier when the time comes.

I just got the Gstop SS brake lines for Christmas (from racingbeat.com). I'm going to buy a SS clutch line, and just do everything at once. If you guys want I'll throw up a DIY, when I do the brake lines.

Thanks for the Writeup Bnez, it looks like a quick and easy install.

Where can I get said speedbleeder?

Why dont you PM B-Nez. He might check his PMs, oh, maybe next year when he logs on again.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

think they sell these at any brick and morter stores? I'll have to check out advance auto tomorrow.

I just checked on line for you. They dont. (though they do sell self bleeders. They just arn't very sophisticated.)

No harm in checking, though. Post back if you find them.

Try summitracing.com for Russell speedbleeders. Half the price of the SpeedBleeders.

Thanks guys- due to unforseen circumstances (summer mid-terms) it's probably going to be another week before I get this done. I may as well order a couple of these online.

Quick question for those of you who opted to have a garage do it- about how much did it run you? I'm in an apartment complex and they've been on my case ever since I swapped out my trans and diff oil.

Nice write up .
Wish I would have seen it before I did mine, lol. The latex trick sounds like a great idea and so is the speed bleeder. I have to hand it to you getting it done without dropping the tranny. I did my flywheel and clutch kit at the same time. Onec I took a look at it there was no way I was buttoning up the tranny. So, leaving the tranny hanging, I had more room to get at the slave. Still, bleeding it by hand was a chore. I'll have to remember about the speed bleeder.
Grey

I know they say you're not supposed to mix different types of brake fluids.. so after I install this I need to do a complete flush or can I just refil with the same type of fluid that comes from the factory? Anyone know what that type is?

The owner's manual states SAE J1703 or FMVSS116 DOT-3

I went with ATE Super Blue which is a Dot 4 many others have done this also.

Don't do Dot 5 as it will not absorb any water and tends to mess with the ABS because the water will corrode the brake system since it is not absorbed by the fluid.

Brake fluid absorbs water and being mine is an '04 the brake fluid has been in there for about 2.5 years thought it would be a good time to change it out.

Since the RX-8 has a hydraulic clutch that pulls from the same fluid it gets more use than just a brake system.

When water is absorbed the boil point is lowered and if it boils it makes the brakes and clutch not work as well. It adds air bubbles.

We get a 10% discount if we ask for it and mention RX8club.com when ordering.

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

Stainless bleeders are here: http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/category/stainlesssteel/

2 speed Bleeders for front calipers RX-8 SB8100 7mm x 1.0 - 34mmL
2 speed bleeders for rear calipers RX-8 SB1010 10mm x 1.0 - 34mmL
2 speed Bleeder clutch RX-8 /master cylinder SB7100 8mm x 1.0 - 34mmL

Very nice DIY. I did mine today. I got my SS line from Corksports. I was able to install the speedbleeder from the top instead of from the bottom but I did bend the engine oil dipstick in the process, so if you want to try to do it from the top, you may be better off take the oil dipstick away first. Another thing is that the nut on the clutch line is 17mm.

Did not notice anything different for now. I did it because I had some 1-2 grinding sometime and I am hoping this will help minimize it. Well, I only drove it to fill up gas. Let see if I notice more in the next few days.

Thanks again for the nice writeup.

I can get speedbleeders at PepBoys. Check and see if you have one, they carry oddball stuff sometimes.

I can get speedbleeders at PepBoys. Check and see if you have one, they carry oddball stuff sometimes.

:) I saw the mild steel speedbleeders at Pepboys. Believe Checker has them also. Heard that Napa only has plastic ones :confused: Not sure if I would trust those in the cold weather or if a rock was to pop in and rattle around in the rim. :dunno:

I really like the speedbleeders and for doing the clutch bleeding it is almost a definite necessity.

It is a needed if you don't have an extra person to step on the brake pedal or clutch pedal to bleed the air out of the lines.

I just swapped my clutch house out for a stainless steel hose last week. It does make a difference, not sure how much yet but it does shift nicer. Also, I just want to let anybody else know that I swapped out the bleeder screw with a speed bleeder and I found it easy to do it from the top of the car instead of from under it.

Yes from on top is definitely the easiest.

When using the speedbleeders it says to slowly pump the brakes (or clutch) when bleeding and a person doesn't have to go all the way to the floor (it was recommended not to on one of the sites I found).

just changed my clutch line to agency power's ss clutch line and swapped the clutch fluid to valvoline synthetic dot4. for some reason the clutch seems softer... is that how its suppose to be?

No it shouldn't be softer.

Did you bleed the brake master cylinder first before it and then again after the clutch?

well i didnt bleed the brake... i didnt know i was suppose to. but anyways after some driving, the clutch actually got a little stiffer and the drive is normal. everything seems to work fine and shifting did get a little smoother. so i guess its alright. thanks for the help though!

No it shouldn't be softer.

Did you bleed the brake master cylinder first before it and then again after the clutch?

The brakes and clutch share the same reservoir so since you changed fluid you did bleed the brakes also I hope.

Order to bleed is:
Brake master cylinder
rear passenger caliper
rear driver caliper
front passenger caliper
front driver caliper
clutch
and last the Brake Master cylinder

no i did not bleed the brakes and tomorrow is the first thing i am going to do. but the weird thing is that the brakes and everything seems alright though. ill just do it to be safe.
thanks

Why would you need to bleed the brakes if you didn't let the fluid below the "min" level? Doesn't seem necessary as long as you used the SAME brake fluid as what was in there.

Also, anyone using the Corksport line? It's only $18 compared to the Agency for $40 and Mazdaspeed for $1xx!

The shop manual states to bleed the master cylinder after the clutch is bled.

If a person used the same fluid I don't think it is necessary to bleed the brakes.

If you saw SiLVeRE8 changed to the Valvoline synthetic. ;)

I can't imagine the Corksport line being much different than the Agency or Mazdaspeed, unless it has the Agency or Mazdaspeed etched on them...

ok...problem...i put the hose on and everything is tight. i got the ss clutch line from rx7store.net. the bottom fitting to the hard line is leaking slowly but surely everytime i hit the clutch pedal. the car is still not out of the driveway because of this mishap. any advice?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

My guess is that you either cross threaded the fitting or the fitting is not as tight as it needs to be. Try tightening it a bit more.

after hours of contemplating...we have finally reached a conclusion...defective line. it's leaking out of the steel braids into the plastic jacket and that's just not supposed to happen. so i'm sending it back tomorrow. for the record the fitting was very tight and the top worked fine. so i put the stock hose back on and it works fine now. i'll repost when i get the new line in to ensure that it is working properly. thank you for the advice though.

I had the same problem when I installed it on a local guy's car.

I noticed the line from RX7store had to be very very tight to the point of thinking it might strip threads.

Guess I wouldn't recommend that line if someone asked which one to buy. :dunno:


(and for the record the bottom one is where the problem was with the local guy's)

Just installed mine today plus Racing Beat brake lines. How important are those clip things? The one on the bottom just isn't happening no way no how. The hose doesn't move though. Keep trying or am I alright?

Regarding the tight metal lines. Mine all had to be broken open with vise grips. The 10mm open wrench would just round them out. Just a tip for all you out there.

Just installed mine today plus Racing Beat brake lines. How important are those clip things? The one on the bottom just isn't happening no way no how. The hose doesn't move though. Keep trying or am I alright?

Regarding the tight metal lines. Mine all had to be broken open with vise grips. The 10mm open wrench would just round them out. Just a tip for all you out there.

Are you talking about the clip on the SS hose ?

If yes, then take the hose out and look at the bolt, then you'll know that its not really a HEX bolt with 6 corners, insteads its more like 5 corners plus a rounded side.

So when you insert them, just turn the hose until it goes in perfectly. YOU NEED THE CLIP to hold it in place. do NOT run without the clips.

when you try to break the metal line loose, dont just keep pulling it and pulling it. you'll round them up, what I did was I put my wrench in, then I use my screw driver (or something a bit heavy), hit the wrench counter-clockwise fast and lightly, got them loose with just a few hits.

and when you use the tools, MAKE SURE its really the right size and within the spec, I have 2 10mm wrench, one was from my father's old tools, the other one I just brought it new couple weeks ago. The old one is more like a 10.5mm wrench because its just a bit bigger, not perfect fit, the one I bought was a perfect fit. at first when I use my father's one I was like hmm wtf ? It should be perfect fit with no extra movements, then when I use my new one I was like ahhh ...... so just make sure your tools are within the spec.

Thanks for the reply - guess I'll keep working at it. My tools are in spec, it's just that 10mm nut is made of something really soft. I'll have to take a look those 11/16 nuts and look for the rounded side, never noticed it.

Firstly, I got it in - whew. On a side note for all of you who buy the Racing Beat clutch line there isn't a rounded side on the 11/16 fitting. :rolleyes:

Secondly, when pumping the clutch do you leave the pedal at the floor before closing the speed bleeder or do you pull it up and then close it. Adding these two bits to the DIY would be nice too.

Thanks for all the help!

I would pull it up before closing it.

From what I have read it is best not to go all the way to the floor, but to stop just before going all the way.

Pump it slowly. ;)

I left it at the floor and closed it. That's the general practice for non-speed bleeders. Works just fine although I've only put about 7 miles on it. My new Hawk HP+ are unbelievable though. My 245/40 RE-01R are overwhelmed by their power :icon_droo

My new problem is why does the board log me off every 10 minutes and not remember my password!

Firstly, I got it in - whew. On a side note for all of you who buy the Racing Beat clutch line there isn't a rounded side on the 11/16 fitting. :rolleyes:

Secondly, when pumping the clutch do you leave the pedal at the floor before closing the speed bleeder or do you pull it up and then close it. Adding these two bits to the DIY would be nice too.

Thanks for all the help!

You probably didnt get my meaning. But doesnt matter, you got it in so its all good.

I will just take my brake hose back out tomorrow and take a picture, then you'll know what Im talking about :P

Which part? My hex wasn't rounded and my tools are kosher. I looked at the old brake and clutch hoses and you can trust me the Racing Beat is not rounded.

Which part? My hex wasn't rounded and my tools are kosher. I looked at the old brake and clutch hoses and you can trust me the Racing Beat is not rounded.

Grrr, mine was racing beat too :P Its all Good Ridge anyway. maybe they're changed the production line, who knows.

Im in the process of changing radiator (DIY later of course, damn its a bitch to replace it) , took some pictures of the brakes already. will update my post later.

I installed the RP clutch hose this weekend and it drives much better than before. The only problem with it is that the fittings on the new cable are different. The Factory mazda part has a rounded side so that the molded rubber hose is properly indexed into the bracket. The SS hose is a 11/16" nut all the way around with no rounded side. This prevents the cable from properly seating into the bracket and gives off a faint rattle on accelleration between idle and 5k rpm. The horse shoe clips are very tight and the cable will not move, but does rattle from engine vibration. Has anyone else experienced this? I hate freakin rattles!!! I have modified the lower bracket which is slotted and removed the rounded side by drilling out the spot welds and cutting it off with a dremel. This allowed proper seating of the lower side and reduced the noise by 50%. I really dont want to open the system back up to do the upper half and was wandering if any of you come up with a ghetto fix. Keep in mind this is VERY faint and can only be heard driving with the windows up, AC on lowest setting, and radio off. I am just anal about things being perfect. Any help would be appreciated.

I installed the RP clutch hose this weekend and it drives much better than before. The only problem with it is that the fittings on the new cable are different. The Factory mazda part has a rounded side so that the molded rubber hose is properly indexed into the bracket. The SS hose is a 11/16" nut all the way around with no rounded side. This prevents the cable from properly seating into the bracket and gives off a faint rattle on accelleration between idle and 5k rpm. The horse shoe clips are very tight and the cable will not move, but does rattle from engine vibration. Has anyone else experienced this? I hate freakin rattles!!! I have modified the lower bracket which is slotted and removed the rounded side by drilling out the spot welds and cutting it off with a dremel. This allowed proper seating of the lower side and reduced the noise by 50%. I really dont want to open the system back up to do the upper half and was wandering if any of you come up with a ghetto fix. Keep in mind this is VERY faint and can only be heard driving with the windows up, AC on lowest setting, and radio off. I am just anal about things being perfect. Any help would be appreciated.

this is exactly what Im talking about. the rounded side.

but for some *reason* mine just fit. and I left it there.

Im going to get the FEED's big clutch release and it comes with another hose, and I think it will be a perfect fit. then Im gonna replace it again.

Without using the speed bleeder do you just let the fluid drain out the drain plug or what? trying to do this just dont want air pockets in the lines.

you want to attach a hose and fluid tank so the fluid doesn't get all over the place.

Just a FYI the bleeder screw is the worst thing on the whole install took me 2 hours to bleed and de-air the line just cause its a Pain in the ass to get a wrench on. but you also can get a socket wrench on it when you all done bleeding to close it. big pain.

can i get the info on the ms clutch line also?

Hi, OP!.

I have a question, I am replacing all brake and clutch Bleed screws to SS Speedbleeders...I have done the Brakes, No problem.

Now to the Clutch Release Cylinder (Slave), the Series I and II have the same Release Cylinder, the only difference is access is a little easier as S2's don't have the oil filter in the way.

MY question is , the Speed-bleeder (7mm) SB7100-SS has a sharp pointed end which seats to shut off fluid, just like the Brake Speed Bleeders.
BUT, the Clutch Release Cylinder is a little different, they have a small steel ball bearing that actually shuts off fluid flow as the bleeder end sits on the round steel ball.

I am not sure what to do here because if I use the SB from SB.com with the point will I run into any problems trying to seat the Steel Ball, or leaks, or do you remove the steel ball before you install the new bleeder?

I have enclose a Parts Diagram of the 2003 RX-8 (all RX-8's are the same).

You can see the small ball bearing that goes in before the Bleeder Screw and the original Bleeder Screw appears to have a more flatten/rounded end.

Without perhaps removing the steel ball maybe the reason why some of you note that the Bleeder stick out a long way when compared to the Mazda one?.

Having said that I am not sure if the round ball comes out easily or should be removed.

All the Brake Calipers on the RX-8 do not have any type of steel ball before the Bleeder, they are pointed like the Speedbleeder.com ones.

Any suggestions

Ash, I'm not sure about the ball bearing in the slave cylinder. It's the first I've heard of it. I simply popped out my old screw, and screwed in the speedbleeder. Not sure if there is a difference between our parts. Sorry I'm not more help.

Ash, I'm not sure about the ball bearing in the slave cylinder. It's the first I've heard of it. I simply popped out my old screw, and screwed in the speedbleeder. Not sure if there is a difference between our parts. Sorry I'm not more help.


I checked the US parts catalog for the 04 and they are the same as the diagram I posted...??MMmmm.

Apparently the small ball bearing will only shift if there is room for it, in other words you take out bleeder, then pump pedal with the hydraulic force unseating the ball, if you do not do this it won't move, so when you put the S Bleeder in it seats on top of the ball.

I am just wondering if this is why the replacement SB juts out longer than the original.

Do you have the old Release Cylinder Bleeder to look at the base, is it flat or pointed?.

I am getting one from a dealer to check.

The ball is only about 3.5-4mm in Diameter.

bringing up an old thread here.
one quick question-
there are two 7100's to choose from.
SB7100S Speed Bleeder
M7 x 1.0 x 30.22

and

SB7100 Speed Bleeder
M7 x 1.0 x 35.15

which is the right one?

On my 8 I have 34 mm for the 7100 which are for the master cylinder and the clutch

They do stick out further than the stock.

You could get both but I think the shorter 30 mm would work

I wouldn't want mine to stick out further than they do with the 34mm.

On my 8 I have 34 mm for the 7100 which are for the master cylinder and the clutch

They do stick out further than the stock.

You could get both but I think the shorter 30 mm would work

I wouldn't want mine to stick out further than they do with the 34mm.
when you say 34mm one, do you mean the 35.15mm one? because i don't see any 34mm to choose from the speedbleeder website.

I installed mine and they had said 34mm for the 7100-ss

I see they are slightly longer.

The 7100 that I installed were considerably longer than they needed to be. The 35 will work they are just longer than thy need to be. ;)

I believe the 30 mm should fit better.

I recommend using the ATE SL.6 for brake fluid, formulated to be thinner to get into tighter places specifically for cars with anti lock brakes and active stability control.

Shifting seem to be better since I installed the SL.6

Tirerack.com sells it, not sure who else carries it.

I installed mine and they had said 34mm for the 7100-ss

I see they are slightly longer.

The 7100 that I installed were considerably longer than they needed to be. The 35 will work they are just longer than thy need to be. ;)

I believe the 30 mm should fit better.

I recommend using the ATE SL.6 for brake fluid, formulated to be thinner to get into tighter places specifically for cars with anti lock brakes and active stability control.

Shifting seem to be better since I installed the SL.6

Tirerack.com sells it, not sure who else carries it.

thanks for the prompt reply. will order the shorter 7100's and some ATE SL. 6

Anyone? I have a 2006 GT which Russell's speedbleeder do I order for the clutch release cylinder bleeder screw?
Is it 639550/ 639560 or some other.

Hear the answer to my above question..... See Chart