Guys I have a problem I was redlining my car yesterday I was in third redlined it and then my coolant light flashed like 3 times and shut off after that I kept the rpms very low just in case. I have to make an appointment as soon as possible. I am leaving to Orlando on Friday for the weekend I hope there nothing major with my car. If there is I am screwed because I am the only one with the car for this trip and we have hotel reservations, dinner reservations, ect if theirs a problem my whole weekend is shot. What do u guys think the problem could be?

did you check the coolant level?

coolent level or check engine light? my bet it was the latter.

beers

coolant level is fine . My engine light never flashed it was only my coolant light.

Did you ever get this resolved??? I have been having the same thing happed for the last two days. Temperature outside has been warmer than normal.
It is def the coolant level light. Coolant level with a HOT engine is above the Full mark.

Did you ever get this resolved??? I have been having the same thing happed for the last two days. Temperature outside has been warmer than normal.
It is def the coolant level light. Coolant level with a HOT engine is above the Full mark.

if the coolant level is fine, and the cars temp gauge reads normal, and you not having any problems with the car overheating.......then dont worry about it....if it keeps happening, take it to the dealer.

My guess is low coolant, when the car was accelerating the coolant 'rocked' to the back and tirggerd the light for a short time......

plus this is almost a year old.

it should be low of coolant, it happened on me before, the CEL lights up when i first start my car to warm it up, but when i start driving it, the CEL went off.
i checked my coolant level after, it was below low.
it never happened again after i added some coolant to it!

You shut off the car after you get the warning light!, you're supposed to drive it slowly with all heater fans on to cool down instead of letting it heat soak... just kidding.

if the coolant level is fine, and the cars temp gauge reads normal, and you not having any problems with the car overheating.......then dont worry about it....if it keeps happening, take it to the dealer.

My guess is low coolant, when the car was accelerating the coolant 'rocked' to the back and tirggerd the light for a short time......

plus this is almost a year old.
Yup thats what I was thinking. But its ok. This prob was never closed. :)

Happened to me once too at the drag strip when I was revving it for the start. Haven's seen it since.

It did get resolved. I think! Even though the coolant level looked perfectly fine after the light came on it was low. The problem was that the coolant level in the overflow tank goes VERY high when the engine is hot. When I checked it again the next morning the level was slightly low, so I just topped it off.
I have been running it hard and the problem has not returned, so my current conclusion is that it was just low. I was especially surprised because I had just had it into the dealer a few weeks earlier for servicing and I presume the dealer did NOT check it :(.

Happened to me too. Put the front up on jack stands and ran the engine for 5 minutes and burped out all the air, then topped it off. No big deal.

I was especially surprised because I had just had it into the dealer a few weeks earlier for servicing and I presume the dealer did NOT check it :(.I'd bet they didn't bother, but I would bet they wrote up a "Full Circle Inspection". Anyone know what they charged Mazda for that? I've received the "Full Circle Inspection" 3 or 4 times now when visiting the dealer, but they never commented on oil level, coolent level, tire pressure, wiper blades that were completely shot or anything else. The old motto of "Trust No One" comes to mind - we gotta keep an eye on these things ourselves. *sigh*


Happened to me too. Put the front up on jack stands and ran the engine for 5 minutes and burped out all the air, then topped it off. No big deal.That's an interesting idea - did it seem to affect the coolent level much? I've rocked some of my old cars when I was topping off the radiator (some had no overflow tanks), but never used jack-stands for a vehicle with an overflow tank.

Enough for me to add almost a keg cups worth of coolant/water

Mine does this too from timie to time. The coolant level looks fine, but it isn't.
Just add enough water to bring it up a finger or so over the "full" marker and rev the piss out of it.
Abbid's "burping" method is a great idea.

Guys I have a problem I was redlining my car yesterday I was in third redlined it and then my coolant light flashed like 3 times and shut off after that I kept the rpms very low just in case. I have to make an appointment as soon as possible. I am leaving to Orlando on Friday for the weekend I hope there nothing major with my car. If there is I am screwed because I am the only one with the car for this trip and we have hotel reservations, dinner reservations, ect if theirs a problem my whole weekend is shot. What do u guys think the problem could be?


Well, why were you redlining your car in the first place??? Don't you know when you do that engines don't tent to last too long?? :spank: :nono:

Well, why were you redlining your car in the first place??? Don't you know when you do that engines don't tent to last too long?? :spank: :nono:
Redlining your motor does absolutely no damage to it and, in fact, my promote better overall engine life by removing carbon deposits from the track of the side seals and plug tips.

Remember - the rotary motor is NOT a reciprocating motor. There is no contrary inertial component to its motion, so there is virtually no stress from normal revolution. (Besides thebearing surfaces, only the end gears receive longitutional energy, and they are fixed in place.)
Additionally, the internals are spinning at 1/3 the engine RPM.

Happened to me once too at the drag strip when I was revving it for the start. Haven's seen it since.

I don't know about the original post, but the above mentioned is part of the latest flash. The newest flash contains some more protection for overheating, if you redline the car for something like 10 seconds at a standstil, it will eventually cut power. When I got the newest flash I tried this and it did cut power, but flashed the coolant light before it it.

I don't think its a "something is wrong with your coolant" light so much as "if you keep doing what your doing you might overheat" light.

I'm still on "M" flash which does not have this "feature", though I might still get the famous "Lincoln Memorial" icon on my dash if the coolant is low (but not visibly).

The issue addressed by the new flash (and the other parts added by that TSB) wasn't a matter of engine overheating - it was exhaust overheating melting the gas tank.

Redlining your motor does absolutely no damage to it and, in fact, my promote better overall engine life by removing carbon deposits from the track of the side seals and plug tips.

Remember - the rotary motor is NOT a reciprocating motor. There is no contrary inertial component to its motion, so there is virtually no stress from normal revolution. (Besides thebearing surfaces, only the end gears receive longitutional energy, and they are fixed in place.)
Additionally, the internals are spinning at 1/3 the engine RPM.


Yes , but remember that higher RPM = Higher tear and wear. no matter what motor you have....
By the way, have you ever watch an indi or F1 car race.... those high RPM engines often need to be re-built after each race....

Yes , but remember that higher RPM = Higher tear and wear. no matter what motor you have....Not exactly. Any engine has a finite number of REVs at load over time. Running the motor at high RPM's and no load accounts for an infinitesimally small total of that ratio.


By the way, have you ever watch an indi or F1 car race.... those high RPM engines often need to be re-built after each race....Ever watch LeMans? You do know that a 4-rotor won that in 1991? Do you also know that after the tear-down of that motor, it showed virtually no wear?

Not exactly. Any engine has a finite number of REVs at load over time. Running the motor at high RPM's and no load accounts for an infinitesimally small total of that ratio.


Ever watch LeMans? You do know that a 4-rotor won that in 1991? Do you also know that after the tear-down of that motor, it showed virtually no wear?
.
Well... a four rotor configuration is not the same as a two rotor.....

by the way,,,, you should study the laws of physics and thermodynamics...

.
Well... a four rotor configuration is not the same as a two rotor.....Correct. It has nearly twice as many moving parts. How astute.

by the way,,,, you should study the laws of physics and thermodynamics...Done that.
Were I you, I wouldn't presume.
Incidently, thermodynamics is a subset of physics. You needn't be redundant, though your punctuation would indicate a tendency otherwise.

To get back on topic -

I logged my coolant temp's first excursion over 212°F yesterday.
The ambient temp was 105°F, though my intake air temp was 113°F.
Coolant temp hit 224°F. Highest ever for me.
Since doing the "Abbid Burp", I haven't been able to reproduce the Lincoln Memorial.

Possibility bubble in your radiator, this happen after youu flash your radiator, because the radiation is position 45 degree in the 8, there will be some air trap inside. So you must make sure that the bubble is out.

this thread started 2 years ago:) i love it:)

Yes , but remember that higher RPM = Higher tear and wear. no matter what motor you have....
By the way, have you ever watch an indi or F1 car race.... those high RPM engines often need to be re-built after each race....

You should tell that to all the owners of turbo rotaries that never redlined their engines when they died at very low mileage from carbon buildup. Then to the guys that did properly warm up their engines, then proceed to beat the snot out of them and went past 100K boosted.

Returning to the original topic--I had a similar problem (occasional radiator warning light for a few seconds, not clearly related to speed or load). Dealer diagnosed a defective coolant level sensor and replaced the overflow tank assembly under my extended warranty (about $400 worth). That was at about 70,000 miles, and I haven't seen the light since.

I can't redline every day, but she thanks me for it when I can.