After a long hiatus of messing with the RX8 because of my Eclipse I had a chance to finally install my Tanabe GF210 springs.

Here is a short write-up/pictures of the process. This is my first how-to so sorry if it’s a bit rough ;)

Ill try to get a full side shot this weekend after I wash the car

### IMPORTANT NOTE ###
If you don’t want to read the whole thing it goes pretty much like any other spring install or syntrix's JIC install how-to but with one catch....

Before tightening the upper front control arm bolts (but after screwing them in most of the way) put the car back on the ground so the suspension gets preloaded and then tighten it down

I even took a quick trip round the block before tightening them down

### Before ###

Pretty Orange....
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00225.JPG

Before Front
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/before_front.JPG

Before Rear
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/before_rear.JPG

## NOTE ## when retightening the bolts I used pretty much hand tight plus some, if anyone has a factory manual and can chime in with the proper torque specs for the various bolts that will be great.

## NOTE ## passenger side is same as drivers side except where noted

### Rear Springs ###

1) Jack up the rear of the car, i jacked under the rear diff and placed jackstands under each side of the rear to secure it
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00226.JPG

2) Remove the wheels

3) Under the car mark the lower control arm alignment bolt so you can return it to the same setting, mark the front and back of the bolt (bolt and nut side)

4) For driver’s side, remove the 10mm nut that holds the lever to the headlight adjustment control

5) Undo the 14mm nut to the swaybar link and swivel the link out of the way

6) Remove the 17mm alignment bolt for the control arm

7) Wiggle the control arm until it drops out of its bracket

8) Remove the 12mm bolt near the top of the strut where the strut goes into the trunk area

9) Pop the trunk and undo the tabs holding the side carpet, pull the carpet back to expose where the strut is

10) remove the 2 14mm at the base of the strut and the 2 14mm bolts into the gold bracket, to make it easier i also removed the 2 14mm nuts and pulled the bracket off
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00227.JPG

11) You can now pull the strut out; if it seems to get caught on the suspension you can try rotating it like a screw until it becomes free

12) It is recommended you use a spring compressor while undoing the struts so the parts don’t shoot everywhere... but if you don’t have one you can take the strut/spring assembly out where you can undo it without hitting anything (do not point it at other people, cars or property) a front lawn or driveway is good for this.

13) Carefully undo the 17mm(?) at the top of the strut assembly, the assembly will pop apart when it comes off so be careful and remember to gather up all of the pieces if they fly out.

14) Get the rear springs (they will be the slightly longer ones, if you are unsure look 1 or 2 coils under the GF210 badge there will be a part number that reads something like 0312 SE3PR the R stands for rear.

http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00230.JPG

The assembly will look like this
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00228.JPG

I also trimmed the bumpstop about 1", I would however recommend calling Tanabe and asking if this is necessary and if so how much exactly should be cut, this was a Sunday so I was unfortunately able to call

http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00231.JPG

15) Reassemble the rear strut, if you do not have spring compressors, have a friend thread on the nut while you press the assembly down to expose the threaded end of the strut

The assembled rear strut
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00229.JPG

Basic order is: nut, washer, donut, strut hat, gold sleeve, bottom donut (has a lip that faces up), bumpstop, spring, strut

It helps if you first put the bumpstop on then the spring then slip the sleeve into the bottom donut and place that on the strut then slide the hat donut washer and nut on


16) The reinstallation is the opposite of the removal, I had a bit of difficulty lining up the bolts that go into the body from the strut assembly so 2 people will definitely help

Screw in the 2 14mm nuts from the top and then the 12mm from the bottom.

17) Reinstall the gold bracket and its 2 14mm nuts and 2 14mm bolts

18) Reinstall the side carpeting

19) Reinstall the control arm in its bracket and slide the alignment bolt back in place, tighten this back down to where your original alignment marks were

20) Reinstall the swaybar link and tighten its 14mm nut

21) If driver’s side, reinstall the arm to the headlight level control and secure with its 10mm nut

Installed rear strut/spring assembly
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00232.JPG

22) Reinstall the rear wheels, remove jackstands and jack.

### Front Springs ###

1) Jackup the front of the car, I slide the jack under the front cross brace and jacked up there, install jackstands to secure the car

2) Remove front wheels

3) Pop the hood, and remove the engine cover

4) Remove the strut tower bar (3x12mm on each side)

5) On the lower control arm remove the 17mm bolt that holds the base of the strut on

7) Remove the two upper control arm 14mm bolts

8) Remove the 3 upper hat 14mm? nuts, after this the strut assembly should drop down a bit and you should be able to angle it out (top first) by moving the control arms it out and remove it from the car,

9) It is recommended you use a spring compressor while undoing the struts so the parts don’t shoot everywhere... but if you don’t have one you can take the strut/spring assembly out where you can undo it without hitting anything (do not point it at other people, cars or property) a front lawn or driveway is good for this.

10) Carefully undo the 17mm(?) at the top of the strut assembly, the assembly will pop apart when it comes off so be careful and remember to gather up all of the pieces if they fly out.

The front spring is much more compressed so be careful as the parts will fly everywhere so keep it clear of everything.

Stock front strut assembly
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00233.JPG

Blown apart front strut assembly
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00235.JPG

11) Get the front springs (they will be the slightly shorter ones, if you are unsure look 1 or 2 coils under the GF210 badge there will be a part number that reads something like 0312 SE3PF the F stands for rear.

12) Reassemble the front strut; if you do not have spring compressors, have a friend thread on the nut while you press the assembly down to expose the threaded end of the strut, this will be much more difficult than the rear strut

Basic order is: nut, washer, donut, strut hat, gold sleeve, bottom donut (has a lip that faces up), bumpstop, spring, strut

It helps if you first put the bumpstop on then the spring then slip the sleeve into the bottom donut and place that on the strut then slide the hat donut washer and nut on

13) The reinstallation is the opposite of the removal, first slide the strut assembly back through the upper control arm and under the fender

14) Screw on the 3 14mm bolts for the upper hat

15) Reinstall the 17mm bolt through the base of the strut

16) Screw in the 2 14mm upper control arm bolts but do not tighten them all the way.

If you tighten them now when you rest the car down the front will be excessively high and the rear will look squatted like in a weight transfer, dont ask me how I know this :o

Front strut assembly installed
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00236.JPG

17) After both sides are complete reinstall the strut tower bar 3x12mm on each side, and reinstall the engine cover

18) Reinstall the wheels

19) Lower the car down and let the car settle on the front suspension, I took a quick drive around the block

20) Rotate the wheels so you can tighten the upper control arm bolts.

21) Enjoy your new springs :D

### AFTER ###

After Front
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/after_front.jpg

After Rear
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/after_rear.jpg

Probably won't attempt this little project myself but awesome work!!! Thanks for sharing and taking the time to do step by step! That adds an extra couple hours or more to the project I'm sure. Especially the write-ups!

You should probably put this in the DIY Section as well.

P.S. How about some pics of the whole car also.

My dealer wants $220 to install my Tein springs, and I think I'll pay it.

Yeah dude, whole car pics! And where did you order yours and price?

Outstanding synthtk, thanks for taking the time to photo and write up the directions. Now we all need a side shot of the entire car.

Very nice job! :D

Originally posted by SDFLY
Yeah dude, whole car pics! And where did you order yours and price?

http://www.iapdirect.com/ $165 + shipping which was about 18 bucks if i remember right

PICS!

Ill see if I can get one tomorrow dont blame me if the car is horribly dirty tho! ;)

-Chris

Some after pics as requested, thanks for all the compliments on the writeup, ill see if I can do some more, I think I have some pictures from my XM and shift knob install

http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00924.jpg
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00926.jpg
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00927.jpg
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00928.jpg
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/rx8/tanabe_springs/DSC00929.jpg

Ok, why arent the images showing now?

Very nice job. I didn't have the patience to do a step by step. Your post is extremely informative!!

Good luck with them.

S_D

GREAT DIY !!!

I like the drop a lot. Nice "balanced" look (rear doesn't look dropped more than the front due to wheel well design).

:cool:

Very nice job for a first D.I.Y., congrats your ride looks great!

Good article. Mentioning the size of each bolt is something easily overlooked but makes it much easier to follow. The only recommendation I could make is to have pictures with arrows indicating each bolt so there's no mistake or problems with identification.

What about torque values for each bolt? Is there a recommended value or is it just "gutentight"?
________
E Platform (http://www.dodge-wiki.com/wiki/Chrysler_E_platform)

Wow thanks for the play by play :)

Great looking ride !!!

Originally posted by PUR NRG
What about torque values for each bolt? Is there a recommended value or is it just "gutentight"?

I wish I knew the proper torque specs, but I dont have the factory service manual, I basicly tried to put them back as tight as it felt when taking them off, non were really tight so i just did hand tight with a 3/8 drive ratchet + some

Like i said in the 2nd post if anyone with the proper torque specs from a factory service manual or something please chime in ;)

Next DIY ill add the arrows ;)

Nice job synthtk....After giving up on waiting for the Tein, I am expecting the Tanabes to show up Monday and with any luck I'll have rims by next weekend too....the car looks "right" now.

thats a nice drop...really clean...didn't notice too much of a camber change...how much were the springs and where did you order it from?? sorry if it was posted already..im just lazy to look back..thanks

Originally posted by XDEEDUBBX
thats a nice drop...really clean...didn't notice too much of a camber change...how much were the springs and where did you order it from?? sorry if it was posted already..im just lazy to look back..thanks

Originally posted by synthtk
http://www.iapdirect.com/ $165 + shipping which was about 18 bucks if i remember right

Great D.I.Y....and just in time.

Tein S-tech springs on order and should be arriving beginning of the week. Called all over last Thursday and found out that Tein has them backordered until late April. Found two sets at OptionImports for $174 including shipping. There web site is www.optionimports.com if anyone want it. Will post picks after installed.

synthtk...did you have it alligned after the install? If so, was it off much?

Originally posted by XcelR8

synthtk...did you have it alligned after the install? If so, was it off much? [/B]

Mine going on Thursday...any input on alignment after install?

Received my Tein S-Tech springs yesterday. Looked over the directions and I am so glad for this forum. The supplied directions are not great. Went on-line to tein and pulled off better ones, but the pics will help. Thank you. My only suggestion is that anyone attempting to do this themselves should use spring compressors. I rented them from an autoparts store by my house for FREE. Only had to put a deposit down that will be returned. I have heard stores of people getting seriously hurt from not using the proper tools for this job. I am planning on installing them in the next couple of days.

BTW...another tread in the parts section for vividracing stated that you should have the car alligned after about a week so the springs have a chance to settle.

Nothin but praise goes to synthk thanks to this write up I figured out why my front springs didn't settle as well as the back. But thanks to his adive on not tightening the upper control arms i was able to take half an inch off the ride height in less than 30 min. Thanks again synthk

Get DIY, I will be doing this in the next couple weeks, as well as new rotors, and powder-coated calipers. It is really amazing how much lowering springs make a differance, we put them on my dad's BMW and it made a huge change as well as my friends 350z. I would recommend this mod to everyone on this board.

Troy J.

To reiterate, make SURE you get your car aligned soon after installing springs. When you change the suspension geometry that much, the toe changes quite a bit, and you can wear out tires VERY quickly. I installed some springs on a buddy's 2nd gen RX-7 once and he didn't bother getting it aligned. He wore a new set of Dunlop SP8000's down to nothing in like 3-4 months.

Not to mention when you take the suspension apart and reassemble it, you change the geometry. Most fasteners on suspension have some wiggle room and slop - you probably won't get it put back in exactly the same position as it used to be.

Dale

To save space, loading time and band width I'll just put the link up to another version of the spring install. This install was done by the forum's own Sanguine_Dark (AKA: Vivid Test Monkey). Please read carefuly if you are planning to install springs on your own. Any questions regarding the install you can contact me directly or PM the Test Monkey and he'll be happy to help you out.

Espelir Spring Install (http://www.vividracing.com/index.php?src=news&prid=238&category=Install%20Tips%20and%20Tricks)

Originally posted by synthtk
Like i said in the 2nd post if anyone with the proper torque specs from a factory service manual or something please chime in ;)

I'll be installing the mazdaspeed springs/ shocks this weekend. All the factory torque specs can be found here. (http://www.cox-internet.com/adrian-1/images/RX8/suspension/)

Sometimes gutentight is too tight. Always follow the torque specs.

I am going to try installing my Tein-S springs this weekend. But have a question about cutting the bumpstop. Is 1" enough? Has anyone cut more or less?

-Ron

Go to this thread (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=27541&highlight=tein+bump) . He cut 3 inches off.
I didn't cut any off since mine are Mazdaspeed and only lower the car about 0.8 to 1 inch.

I've done the Tien springs, I would follow there advice, which If I remember correctly is 1'' up front and 3/4'' in the rear. Bens car after a week rides great with no issues.

.8 in the front 1 in the rear but about 1 inch on both works.

I've done the Tien springs, I would follow there advice, which If I remember correctly is 1'' up front and 3/4'' in the rear. Bens car after a week rides great with no issues.

Thanks, I found the cut sheet at the bottom of the box. I will follow what they have.

Thanks again,

Ron

Just to add to the post, I installed the Tein Flex suspension on the 8 last night and shot a few photos of the rear install. I appologize for not taking photos of the front. I used my stock jack to lift up the suspension to get the sway bar links out and my larger jack to keep the car lifted. After completion the rear seems to sit higher than the front. I will be raising the front up a little to look even with the rear.

It may be just my 8, but the Lower Control arm nut/bolt is a 19mm.:confused:

Can anyone else confirm this, like it really matters BTW nice writeup. Nice Coilovers ShowandDrift

I know this is an old DIY, but pay attention to the front control arm part, and the text about not tightening them while the car is in the air. I didnt :P

Dammit! At least it's easy to fix :D

I am going to install my tein s techs next week, and had a question. Upon marking the bolt and nut on the rear lower control arm. Do you make a mark just on the bolt and nut? Or do you have to make a mark on part of the lower arm where they would meet(what is the purpose of this step)? Also I suppose you don't have to do this on the front install, since it wasn't stated in the DIY? One more question, why if you completely tighten the upper arm in the front will the car not lower properly? I just wanted to clarify those things before I attempted this DIY

You are extending the line from both the bolt & the nut onto the control arm in order to be able to return it to the exact position it was in before you removed it. a little dab of paint works too.

You do not have to do this on the front.

If you tighten the upper a-arm bolts (19mm) with the suspension hanging, the rubber bushings will be "preloaded" in this position. I got mine finger tight and then took the car for a quick ride around the neiborhood to make sure everything was settled. The bolts are easy to reach with your torque wrench if you turn the wheels full lock. Good luck with your install. It took me about 6-1/2 hours by myself with no air tools. That *#@% spring compresser! I also got a 4 wheel alignment about 2 weeks after the install.

The car looks and drives awesome with H-Techs. Enjoy!

I also got a 4 wheel alignment about 2 weeks after the install.



Q about your Alighnment. Did you have the shop Zero out the settings , or did you have them set it back to the stock settings?

Thanks

Very nice ride low fly'n, thanks for the clarification on my questions, greatly appreciated.

Check out this thread. Only the toe settings were out of spec on mine.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=49423&highlight=alignment

Did the spring mod...
Man that rear one were a pain in the ass.
Fronts where no problem..
Pictures are here for those who want to see....
http://www.verlinden-productions.com/wim/Springs_RX_8/index.html

Now I need new wheels.....

Just installed my Tein S-Techs last night and this morning. Huge kudos go to Synthtk for his detailled DIY instructions. They convinced me. See details and pics HERE (http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=895784&postcount=1) :D

Can some one please enlighten me.

Why the need to trim the bum stop? Me got the RB spring, don't the spring itself already lowered the car? or need to trim the bum stop to lower the car?

Thanks

The factory strut/bumpstop setup is designed for longer springs. When you install shorter springs, the inner distance from the base of the spring to the end of the bumpstop decrease as well. If you do not trim the bumpstop, the suspensions range of motion will decrease. We're only talking about an inch, but that could be enough to create some issues with wheel travel/articulation. Hope that answers your question. :D

Just remember to disconnect the abs sensors before you do it. Got my springs installed yesterday and they ruptured the speed sensor on drivers side. Dealer said it will cost around $600 to fix cause there is so much equipment involved.

The factory strut/bumpstop setup is designed for longer springs. When you install shorter springs, the inner distance from the base of the spring to the end of the bumpstop decrease as well. If you do not trim the bumpstop, the suspensions range of motion will decrease. We're only talking about an inch, but that could be enough to create some issues with wheel travel/articulation. Hope that answers your question. :D

Thanks MadDash! That's pretty clear explanations!

Just remember to disconnect the abs sensors before you do it. Got my springs installed yesterday and they ruptured the speed sensor on drivers side. Dealer said it will cost around $600 to fix cause there is so much equipment involved.

Thanks mmats, will take note of the sensors!

Thank you guys!

I just got my Tein springs today. Ill be putting them on Sunday.

Im putting my springs on. How tight does that 17mm nut on top of the strut assembly have to be? Can I tighten it too much?

Im putting my springs on. How tight does that 17mm nut on top of the strut assembly have to be? Can I tighten it too much?

For torque specs, look here (http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=433899&postcount=31) Post some pics after your done! :D

Here are some pics

Have any of you look at what the manufactures manual says on how to remove the rear shock? No need to remove the lower control arm. But it does requiere to disassemble the shock while it is in the car. I did mine like that and it took me 30 mins to do the rear. Once the car is in the air the rear springs don't need to be compressed to be removed. The manual tells you to remove the caliper and the hand brake stuff but I didn't do that. But this doesn't apply to coil overs though

Wouldda been nice to know a few months ago. Thanks, though. :D

wow this is such a pain in the ass, how he hell do i put this damn strut back in, i'm ready to kill something.

there is no way these struts were designed to go back in. Put them in from the top or the bottom?

half way done (just did the rears). First side took me roughly 3 hours, second side, about 40 minutes.... ha ha ha.

I would HIGHLY recommend taking off the sway bar end link completely. It makes it about 100x easier to take out the shock and put in the new one. Tommorrow i'll do the fronts.

one question, do you have to cut the bump stops in the front as well?

i have been following this tonight. guess it got better. from the thread above, yes ~ 1 inch.

beers

i have been following this tonight. guess it got better. from the thread above, yes ~ 1 inch.

beers

They key is to completely remove the sway bar end link. Pretty much just went straight in after that.

finally installed my s-techs today. this DIY is awesome! I'm now very close to the ground. :)

Ngo, did you stay with stock shocks?

When I returned home last week after mine were installed I was talking to my neighbor outside,had the car parked in the driveway. The first thing he said was how much better he thought the 8 looked lowered a bit. So far I love the S-Tech/Koni combo. :)

Yea, I stayed with the stock shocks. As long as it lasts me for a year, I'll be fine. So I can save up money for some tokico d-specs or just give up and go coilovers. how do the s-tech with koni ride?

I definitely like the lowered look, my only problem now is having to do full on parallel angling up driveways, dips, and bumps. cuz of my kit.


oh yea, +1 for cleoent's method of removing the sway bar endlink. really helped.

Tiggerlee: What part #/model of Koni's dod you go with? Where'd ya get'em?

Tiggerlee: What part #/model of Koni's dod you go with? Where'd ya get'em?


Koni yellow adjustable. If I still had the boxes I could give you a part number. Got them from Driven Performance Equipment. Phil had a group buy going here awhile back. Paid $520 shipped. Right now I've got them set at about 3/4 turn up from full soft. So far I love the combination and I'm very happy with them and the S-Tech springs. From what I've heard DPE may have another group buy in the future. Here's (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=84309) some before and after pics.

how do the s-tech with koni ride?


Love 'em! Not a huge difference from stock IMO. But haven't tweaked anything yet. I have them set at about 3/4 up from full soft right now. I actually thought about just going with the springs then I figured hell why not save myself some headache and do them both together so I decided on the Koni's.

I'd like to add this thread some specific information about installing rear Tokico D-Specs. In particular, how to handle the adjustment cables. This info would probably help coilver systems which also come with cables.

The Tokico cables have to be treated with a little care, as they have a tendency to pull apart if you put too much tension on them. For example, if you get the shocks in part way, with the cables attached, and then decide you need to pull the shocks back out (or the shock falls off whatever is holding it up), it's easy for the cables to hang up on an edge while you are extracting the shock, and if you tug too hard, presto, the nuts seperate from the braided stainless cable and now you need a new pair.

And, they are a bit tricky to thread through the hole in the sheet metal. The tricky part is that you can't just stick the shocks up in the body work - the cables need to be threaded out the hole in the sheet metal as you push the shocks up. Your best bet is to get a helper and carefully coordinate your efforts - one person lifting the shock, the other trying to get the cable to come out the little hole.

It helps to tie some string on the cable and thread it through first so you can guide it. But remember not to pull too hard, or the cable will seperate.

I didn't have a helper, so I devised a method where I supported the shock on a floor jack, and used some string (well, a packing strap if you must know) to help guide the cable. Basically, I would raise the jack, check the cable, raise it some more, check the cable, etc. Raise it too far and you can get the cable through as it is too high. If you don't raise it far enough you can't get the cable through. You have to find that sweet spot where you can get the head of the cable through and then you are home free.

I attached a picture of how I used the jack, and of the cable head just peeking out the hole in the bodywork. It's not hard if you take your time, but it can be frustrating if you rush it.

Have fun!

great post,
i would love to hear some feedback on these shocks.

this is the route i want to go, and my springs are
just sitting on the shelves.

beers :beer:



I'd like to add this thread some specific information about installing rear Tokico D-Specs. In particular, how to handle the adjustment cables. This info would probably help coilver systems which also come with cables.

The Tokico cables have to be treated with a little care, as they have a tendency to pull apart if you put too much tension on them. For example, if you get the shocks in part way, with the cables attached, and then decide you need to pull the shocks back out (or the shock falls off whatever is holding it up), it's easy for the cables to hang up on an edge while you are extracting the shock, and if you tug too hard, presto, the nuts seperate from the braided stainless cable and now you need a new pair.

And, they are a bit tricky to thread through the hole in the sheet metal. The tricky part is that you can't just stick the shocks up in the body work - the cables need to be threaded out the hole in the sheet metal as you push the shocks up. Your best bet is to get a helper and carefully coordinate your efforts - one person lifting the shock, the other trying to get the cable to come out the little hole.

It helps to tie some string on the cable and thread it through first so you can guide it. But remember not to pull too hard, or the cable will seperate.

I didn't have a helper, so I devised a method where I supported the shock on a floor jack, and used some string (well, a packing strap if you must know) to help guide the cable. Basically, I would raise the jack, check the cable, raise it some more, check the cable, etc. Raise it too far and you can get the cable through as it is too high. If you don't raise it far enough you can't get the cable through. You have to find that sweet spot where you can get the head of the cable through and then you are home free.

I attached a picture of how I used the jack, and of the cable head just peeking out the hole in the bodywork. It's not hard if you take your time, but it can be frustrating if you rush it.

Have fun!

great post,
i would love to hear some feedback on these shocks.

this is the route i want to go, and my springs are
just sitting on the shelves.

beers :beer:

What springs did you end up getting?

i picked up a set of eibachs used for a really good price. i am on a budget right now... damn allergist. the specs are almost the same as what you put in.

all is going well with yours i assume... i am fighting putting the springs on first. you know how that is.

beers :beer:



What springs did you end up getting?

great post,
i would love to hear some feedback on these shocks.

this is the route i want to go, and my springs are
just sitting on the shelves.

beers :beer:

Here you are:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=1282822#post1282822

Here you are:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=1282822#post1282822

thx.

beers :beer:

To save space, loading time and band width I'll just put the link up to another version of the spring install. This install was done by the forum's own Sanguine_Dark (AKA: Vivid Test Monkey). Please read carefuly if you are planning to install springs on your own. Any questions regarding the install you can contact me directly or PM the Test Monkey and he'll be happy to help you out.

Espelir Spring Install (http://www.vividracing.com/index.php?src=news&prid=238&category=Install%20Tips%20and%20Tricks)


sorry to dig up an old thread, but Im planning on doing a DIY install on my espilr this weekend, can someone send me that DIY? the link doesnt seem to work anymore. I'm just looking for pictures for references

me and a friend used this DIY to install my koni shocks and Eibach springs this weekend and it took about 4.5 hours....the only time consuming part is compressing and decompressing the springs, thank God this kid had an impact wrench!!! its so easy to get them in and out though...thanks!!!

Does anyone have the new links to the pictures?

BTW Sorry for resurecting an ancient thread! LOL

if you go to this site there are instructions with pictures for the front and rear

http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modify/modify.html

Does anyone have the new links to the pictures?That's why posts in the DIY section should only allow attached images... if the linked site is gone, so are the pics and the thread is less useful.

^second that. As useful as this DIY was, I found that several of the details were a bit.. off. A couple of the bolts are listed as different sizes than what they really are, and where he refers to the "control arms" for the front shocks, I believe he means the end links. Minor typos, but without pictures it's kindof confusing.

I did this install earlier this week...it was super easy probably took 4 hours or less. I'm not sure why everyone considers the rear harder to do...It was far easier. My first front took about 1 hours 2 minutes, second one took about 45 minutes. My first rear took about 45 mins-hour. Second rear spring took literally 20-30 minutes. I did use air tools which make a job like this much, much faster.

I did this install earlier this week...it was super easy probably took 4 hours or less. I'm not sure why everyone considers the rear harder to do...It was far easier. My first front took about 1 hours 2 minutes, second one took about 45 minutes. My first rear took about 45 mins-hour. Second rear spring took literally 20-30 minutes. I did use air tools which make a job like this much, much faster.



^^^^Air tools rule, huh??:Eyecrazy: Personally, I wouldn't attempt this DIY without them, but that's just my opinion. If you don't have any, just go to a local RX-8 or RX-7 meet and ask around!

I just bought a Tein S-Tech kit for my Rx-8, ill post some pics when the job is done. i probably do the front first due to my short time of being not busy.

Good luck man. The fronts were a bit easier for me. Just make sure you have a breaker bar for those top nuts on the hats.... took me quite a while without one. (mine was lent out...ha)

Hey thanks men, well its sunday 21st and yesterday i did just my front, i've been so busy all these day, but the car looks nice like that, can somebody tell me if one of you guys have just the front Tein S, and stock in the back???

Pictures!!!!!

109177
BEFORE

109178
AFTER


109179
NO SHOCK


109180
NEW SPRINGS ON!

109181
I'M A MEMBER OF:



THANKS A LOT GUYS

Just to clarify... So we don't have to undo the lower control arm of the rear suspension to get the rear shock out?

TTT - Anyone have additional info on swapping out the rear srpng without removing the lower control arm?

^^ x2

does everyone have to leave the upper control arm bolts loose before setting the car down before tightening them? or is it for just this specific spring in the DIY?

does everyone have to leave the upper control arm bolts loose before setting the car down before tightening them? or is it for just this specific spring in the DIY?

has to be done.

beers :beer:

TTT - Anyone have additional info on swapping out the rear srpng without removing the lower control arm?

Once you unbolt everything, get your buddy to step on the rear brake to get it low enough to swing the rear shock past the lower control arms.

Also when you go and tighten all the bolts back on, what I do is leave the car onthe jackstand, get a jack, and jack up the knuckle of the suspension until the car gets off the jack. Then you can tighten up all the bolts without worrying about settling issues.

has to be done.

beers :beer:
ok thanks. how difficult is it to loosen these bolts with hand tools?

Use a breaker bar and some WD40 if needed, it's easy.

ok thanks. how difficult is it to loosen these bolts with hand tools?

not at all, and you can get to them by turning the wheels all the way to each side. i would drive it around the block once or twice with them loose / just snug.

beers :beer:

not at all, and you can get to them by turning the wheels all the way to each side. i would drive it around the block once or twice with them loose / just snug.

beers :beer:
awesome, thanks again

has to be done.

beers :beer:
no it doesnt.

a easier way is to get everything back together with loose bolts.
get a jack and place it under the rotating assembly.
and load the front suspension by jacking it up.
it will be fully loaded when the entire car starts to raise and not just the suspension.
load it all the way up, then tighten all your bolts.
unload it and slap your wheel on, then your done.
this way is ALOT easier than having to lower the car down and try and reach the bolts.

^thanks for the suggestion...now I have to try to loosen the bolts. I had a mechanic put the springs on and I'm sure he used an impact. I don't have one..so this should be interesting..........

we will just have to disagree on this.. both will work. i think it is easier my way, + if you drive just a bit and hit a speed bump or two it settles..

have done it both ways. :)

beers :beer:


no it doesnt.

a easier way is to get everything back together with loose bolts.
get a jack and place it under the rotating assembly.
and load the front suspension by jacking it up.
it will be fully loaded when the entire car starts to raise and not just the suspension.
load it all the way up, then tighten all your bolts.
unload it and slap your wheel on, then your done.
this way is ALOT easier than having to lower the car down and try and reach the bolts.

swoope, pm sent.

Has anyone thought about redoing this DIY with pictures?

The links are no longer feeding to the pics.

Yeah, I'd actually worship whoever redoes this DIY, I have ordered and recieved my springs, and it's going to be my first time installing spring onto any car. I went all out and went out and bought jack stands, floor jack, and rented spring compressors. I'm ready as son as I'm sure of what I'm doing of course. lol. But yeah! Pictures would be cool! :)

its not that huge of a job, although I dont know what kind of mechanical background you have

Haha, none at all, except for changing the foglight bulb and installing the K&N intake, but that had detailed instructions.

I just started on my own springs.. Not really getting the preloading thing, sounds like I drive around with my upper control arm bolts loose go over a few speed bumps then tighten it all back up..

FYI: for the front struts break the top 17MM bolt loose first. then take out the assembly once you have compressed the spring you can stick an Allen key in the top and take off the 17mm bolt quickly and easily.

gonna do the other front spring and rears tomorrow with my roommate im freaking tired!!!.. I will post pics if I remember to take them.

yea im also hoping someone redoes a spring DIY with pics. Lol. My GF210s are just begging to be installed.

I agree.

just did the fronts today with tein s-techs....but for some reason my right side is half and inch higher then my left......any ideas why?
i preloaded btw....

^how long did it take you to do the front?

yeah im just debating having my guy at the shop put them on to save the trouble cause its def easier on a lift.

how much u think that would run?

I've been quoted $300 at 2 different shops...

^how long did it take you to do the front?

took me about 2 1/2 hours....if i did it again it would take me an hour prob....

did you have air tools and a spring compressor?

no air tools but i did buy a spring compressor...40 bucks at pep boys

well I did the fronts yesterday, took 1-1/2 hours. Doing rears tonight so we'll see how long they take...

For preloading we just thread the Control arm bolts a little bit and then drive around the block and then tighten them down right?

Or you can use a floor jack and jack the car up by the knuckle. It's much easier this way because the wheel is off, so you can tighten everything down while the floor jack preloades the spring for you.

well I did the fronts yesterday, took 1-1/2 hours. Doing rears tonight so we'll see how long they take...

For preloading we just thread the Control arm bolts a little bit and then drive around the block and then tighten them down right?

i think that is the preferred way.. as it settles things down more.. a few speed bumps helps.

and you can reach the bolts to tighten them by turning the wheels to both opposite locks.

beers :beer:

I've been quoted $300 at 2 different shops...

i was just quoted 150 from my buddy over at this garage by me, if that helps

well I finished the rears tonight... took 2-1/2 hours :(. The front is definitely higher than it should be so I'll preload that bitch tomorrow if I have free time... thanks for all the help!

hope all the pictures work............

synthtk pics you have posted are not working ! Can you please check up the links?

synthtk pics you have posted are not working ! Can you please check up the links?

Lol, he is no longer active, probably doesn't have the car anymore. It's been 5 years, I think he just removed them from the site.

Do a search for Robin Yang, you can download the mht file with the pics and instruction of his coilover install. I am planning on redoing his DIY and hosting it but I wanted his permission. The whole thing font and back should take about five hours with hand tools. Just remember to tighten everything up and don't forget the top bolts on the rear shocks (like I did the last time) because I had to do the rears all over again..

Question...
once the car is lowered to the ground and the front is allowed to settle for a bit, how does one reach into the wheel well (with the wheel on) to tighten the bolts?

footman, you dont put it on the ground, you use the jack to jack up the wheel/brake to its right location still leavinin the car on jack stands, then you tighten...get what im sayin?

Thanks synthtk! The removal instructions were perfect. i didn't brave the spring install so i'm going to have a shop do that for me. I'll let you know how the reinstal goes.

the install went pretty smooth. the only minor setback that i did encounter was w/the reinstall of the right rear shock. I couldn't seem to get it back into the bracket that is located in the trunk. took me about another 15 min just to get the bolts back on. other than that the total removal and reinstall was about 2 hours give or take 30 minutes.

uhhhh... this is a frustrating install, can't get the fronts back in....

^its better to have help

woot, finished! I wish i had a camera, I would of taken pics of my process and the steps i added to the existing diy. oh well, maybe when i install my shocks.

how're the tanabe's? the ride and the drop, i mean. sorry if this is a little off topic. haha! when i search for decent springs, people always mention the tein s tech. can't get them from japan, though, so i'm checking out the tanabe. recommendable?

thanks

how're the tanabe's? the ride and the drop, i mean. sorry if this is a little off topic. haha! when i search for decent springs, people always mention the tein s tech. can't get them from japan, though, so i'm checking out the tanabe. recommendable?

thanks

Well i used to ride with NF210 and they felt very comfortable with suprisingly great handling. I ono how the GF210s ride but i say it might be a lil stiffer?

^ hmmm... good enough for me. haha! thanks for the input

I have been meaning to redo Robin Yang's DIY (I have it in an MHT file) but i just have not had the time. I emailed him and he said it was cool.

I have been meaning to redo Robin Yang's DIY (I have it in an MHT file) but i just have not had the time. I emailed him and he said it was cool.

We just installed the Sprint springs and I have pics if you need any....

mine went pretty smooth but i had a helper :)

I did mine all by myself :(

I am trying to use this DIY but no pictures so i really dont know what im looking for.

I am trying to use this DIY but no pictures so i really dont know what im looking for.

What do you need? I have some pics

The initial write up was helful, tho it left a few key elements out. Def checkout the pics the guy put up with the bolts circles with red, That was a great help for the rear end thanks!!! After seeing those pix the rear was a breeze, my markviii was so much easier to do than this, the rear on this car is very busy. Took me about 4 1/2 hours to complete all 4 (to tein s tech) But I had a helping hand, well he actually had two hands, Good luck everyone doing this! =)

What do you need? I have some pics

You should post your own DIY with your pics so we have an up to date DIY

If the original poster is still around and has the photos still I can host them if you want. I have like 100gb of space so I can host just about anything

I'd love to see these pics re-hosted. This seems like a great DIY, if it still had the accompanying pics. I'm planning on embarking on this project myself very soon, so any pics/help would be appreciated.

Also, since my 8 is over 100,000 miles I'm thinking I might as well replace some of the bushings...while I have the suspension torn apart. Any suggestions as to parts that would be good to add to this list?

i've done this myself and IMO the rear springs are a PIA, the front ones are cake.

^^^ Exactly why this DIY would be so valuable...with pics.

I just got my springs in the mail today and plan on doing them Saturday..I don't know what to think of all this pre-loading stuff, etc :-/ I've only done one set of springs before and that was on a completely different car.

Preloading is essential when installing springs. No preload means the springs will not settle right and you will end up with wheel gap bigger than stock.

preloading is a pretty standard step that surprisingly, alot of people seem to forget or don't know about. preloading allows the bushings to set properly to the new angle of the control arms as they are now at a different angle from the springs being lower. this step should be done on every vehicle that has altered in height with an independent suspension. even those FJ's and Tacoma's everyone is lifting should be preloaded. the suspension will eventually settle itself but at the expense of the bushings as they will wear out from trying to twist beyond their designed tolerance. you do not need to drive around with the control arm bolts loose as that is just an unnecessary and doesn't really do anything. just get the car to support the weight on the springs with a jack or jack stand under the lower control arms before you tighten up the bolts.

preloading is a pretty standard step that surprisingly, alot of people seem to forget or don't know about. preloading allows the bushings to set properly to the new angle of the control arms as they are now at a different angle from the springs being lower. this step should be done on every vehicle that has altered in height with an independent suspension. even those FJ's and Tacoma's everyone is lifting should be preloaded. the suspension will eventually settle itself but at the expense of the bushings as they will wear out from trying to twist beyond their designed tolerance. you do not need to drive around with the control arm bolts loose as that is just an unnecessary and doesn't really do anything. just get the car to support the weight on the springs with a jack or jack stand under the lower control arms before you tighten up the bolts.

Okay so basically set the car down, but before I completely tighten which bolts? The center bolt on top of the strut tower assembly in the engine bay?

Actually, No. But not a bad Idea. The bolts that you want to hold off on until the weight is on the springs are basically any bolt that goes through a bushing and rotates during suspension travel. Now I haven't don't this on an Rx8 so someone else will have to chime in. But, the upper control arm bolt for sure, most likely the lower control arm as well and possibly the lower bolts on the spring assembly itself where it is connected to the the hub assembly for the front suspension. Now I may be wrong because I can't picture the front suspension in my head right now but everyone here seems to think that just the upper control arm bolt is the only one you have to bother with. Remember, anything that may bind on a bushing that rotates and will now be at a different angle will need to be loosened and retightened with the spring load on the actual suspension.
If there were good pictures still in this thread I could point it out for you but no photo, no explaination, sorry.

I'm also appreciating your insight here, EMS!

Does ANYBODY have the photos from this DIY? It seems there are several forum members that would be interested in obtaining them.

the robin Yang site had a good write up with photos (its what I used) but it is also down now....

Well, i'm doing the install this saturday DIY or not. We've done springs before, it's not really hard. Locate spring, remove it, install. The only snag i'm in is the business with preloading the fronts.

I'll take plenty of pictures, and post them if it's a sucess.

This might help... this is crazy. I had pics, they're gone now (I can't seem to find them). I just swapped out the Sprints for MazdaSpeed Springs and struts using Robin Yang's instructions a couple of weeks ago.

Weird... but this might help give some guidance until we get something together.

http://www.swankmonkey.com/mazda/rx8/2004/suspension/coilovers/

It's for a coilover install, but the steps are pretty much the same (minus the compression of your springs)....

I'd love to hear some feedback from you, Frosty. I have the springs in my garage, just waiting for shocks to arrive...so this DIY is definitely on my horizon.

So i guess nothings ever gonna be done about the missing pictures for this diy eh

Give me some time... I will put some up soon at jdmgallery.com

The install was quite easy - Maybe 4 hours of work and that was taking our time over a few brews.

The preloading is made up to be a lot more difficult then it really is. That was by far the simplest part of the installation. You don't really need pictures, either. The directions look sort of confusing now but once you get under the car it's a cake walk.

Here's the picture that made preloading the simplest thing ever - Credit goes to Jedi for the image:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/Jedi54/preload.jpg

This is the upper control arm. The bolt he is pointing to, and the adjacent one on the other side of the arm, are the ones you leave loose (on both driver and passenger side of the car, of course). Make sure they are threaded and all, but not tightened. After this I put the wheels back on, and set the car on the ground. Then I had me and 3 people sit on the hood for a few minutes, drink a beer or two. BAM! preloaded. I believe they are both 17mm

Turn the wheel all the way to the left, tighten on both sides, turn the wheel all the way to the right, tighten on both sides. Done and done. With this procedure, my wheel gap on front and rear look identical + lowered a bit all around. It's sexy.

i'm in the process of uploading a bunch of pictures and writing my own DIY as this seems to be the most talked about page in this section and there are no photos to go with it. as Frosty has said, preloading is simple but must be done if you want to save your bushings and have a comfortable non-binding ride. once this is complete i will re-write the whole DIY with attached photos so there will be no losing them ever.

I have just done mine tooo... It took me couple hours and I think it is certainly doable for some1 who has some DIY experience and the right tools...
Thanks for the DIY and all the comments...
Here is a comparison picture of a Tanabe GF210 vs Stock springs
http://www.rx8club.com/album.php?albumid=1641&pictureid=17590

=D

yang's site is back up!

http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modify/modify.html

yang's site is back up!

http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modify/modify.html

thank god, his site saved me butt when doing this install. I will go save it now.

So I made my first attempt at this DIY on the rears and got all the way to the removal of the lower lateral link bolt before I was stuck. The bolt seems to be seized to the inside of the bushing. I'm not sure what the next best option is:

1. Heat the bolt to free it from the bushing (possibly destroying the bushing)
2. Remove the ball joint end of the lower lateral link
3. Some how jimmy the strut out without removing either end of the lower lateral link (might make it difficult to get the new strut installed)

Any thoughts on the best course of action from here?

thank god, his site saved me butt when doing this install. I will go save it now.

Do you have this saved? I could really use it as the site is down again. thanks

I've got them saved here...

I've got them saved here...
NICE! Thank you very much!

I've got them saved here...

i will be trying to do mine tomorrow.. i got s tech springs and i hope that the install don't gimme a headache
but for sure will be a lot easier with this diy

Finished springs. Decided on Eibach pro kit since I have a hook up and got them for employee cost. So far the springs ride pretty close to stock, not too harsh and I can drive without scraping on every bump. I do have a progress sway on the back (still waiting for the front) and I think compared to the Eibach springs the sways make a much bigger improvement to performance. But the springs do make the car look like it should have from the factory.
I have never worked on any suspension in the past so I appreciate everyone’s advice. This install took me about two hours for the back and one hour for the front. In my opinion the front was easier, even though I had thought it would be harder. Just seemed that all the pieces were easier to get at in the front. A couple of suggestions, do not fight with or force any parts with improper or small tools. Save your back, hands, and sanity-use a breaker bar when needed. When I encountered a rusty or dirty nut the breaker bar took it off every time without any problems. I thought I would need to use my air tools and even set them up but with the right hand tools I never had to turn on the compressor. Also, have a jack ready to prop up the suspension assembly as the break lines are fragile. Also if you do not have a second set of hands like me the jack helps to keep things in place while you put everything back in place or work on the assembly. Oh yeah, pre-load every corner like everyone else say to do. I used the jack method and had to redo the back right as it did not settle right and looked higher than stock at first. Also I can already tell that the car will need an alignment after it settles in.
All in all, I am proud of myself for saving the $300-400 a shop would charge. The whole process was allot less of a headache than I thought it would be because of this forum. I must say that while the suspension is pretty sophisticated and intimidating when you look at it, Mazda really made things nice and easy to work on with this car. Here are some pics (sorry they are not organized) as I noticed that some of the originals are gone: http://s1036.photobucket.com/albums/a449/dlevi0333/

Wish I had those pdfs before I tried this. Thanks for posting them.

Yes, the .pdfs are very helpful. What did you leave loose on the rear end while preloading? I just finished mine and it seems that the rear end is higher than stock as well.

just give it some time and it will settle down. If it doesn't you did something way wrong..

Yes, the .pdfs are very helpful. What did you leave loose on the rear end while preloading? I just finished mine and it seems that the rear end is higher than stock as well.

just give it some time and it will settle down. If it doesn't you did something way wrong..

Yeah pretty sure there is no preloading needed in the Rear....(Thats what she said haha):rock:

Well I dont think there was any mention of it in the DIY anyway...

Yeah...that's what I thought too. There isn't much you can "pre load" on the rear suspension, other than than lower mounting bolt of the strut itself. But that can't have more than a couple mm of play to it. It does seem to be settling as well.

Yeah...that's what I thought too. There isn't much you can "pre load" on the rear suspension, other than than lower mounting bolt of the strut itself. But that can't have more than a couple mm of play to it. It does seem to be settling as well.

So it is starting to settle down? Thats good I have some S-Techs on the way, making sure I know what to expect.... How did you resolve the issue with your seized on bolts? a good WD-40 bath?

I was not clear on the whole pre-loading thing so I just loosened every screw/nut I could find that attached to the suspension then jacked up that corner let it sit for a couple of minutes then tightened it back up. On the rear one side had no wheel gap the other had about two fingers. So I redid that side and it went down. The only concern I have on the rear was that I did not think to measure the stud that hold together the top of the assembly so I hope they are even. I tightened them down as far as I could but then realized if you have the spring compressed more you could tighten it down more. Noticed this after I did the back and made sure that the front was done nice and good. As I said I got a killer deal on the springs so I do not plan on running them forever. They are temp until I can get coilovers. As such, I hope my uneducated install will be okay until I change them. Once again thanks to everyone for the diy info! I would not have tried this without some help.

So it is starting to settle down? Thats good I have some S-Techs on the way, making sure I know what to expect.... How did you resolve the issue with your seized on bolts? a good WD-40 bath?

Turns out it is POSSIBLE (but very difficult) to get the strut assembly out/in without removing the lower rear lateral link. I recommend removing one end of it, as stated in the DIY, if possible.

The rear seems to be settling, but I still plan on loosening things up a bit and tightening them down again with the spring under load, just in case.

The rear seems to be settling, but I still plan on loosening things up a bit and tightening them down again with the spring under load, just in case.

Hmm, that seems weird that it would even start out higher than stock.... did you cut your bumpers properly?

So I'm in the middle of installing my Tein S-Techs and when I try to remove the 14mm rear swaybar end link nut on my passenger side the nut and the entire bolt are all spinning together. Has anyone else ran into this problem? It is the only thing preventing me from finishing the install. I can feel the bracket that is supposed to prevent the bolt from spinning turning with the nut as well. Any help would be effin awsome

So I'm in the middle of installing my Tein S-Techs and when I try to remove the 14mm rear swaybar end link nut on my passenger side the nut and the entire bolt are all spinning together. Has anyone else ran into this problem? It is the only thing preventing me from finishing the install. I can feel the bracket that is supposed to prevent the bolt from spinning turning with the nut as well. Any help would be effin awsome

just in case....
The end link should have a hex key opening on the end of the screw part than you can use to hold the middle still while you undo the bolt.

just in case....
The end link should have a hex key opening on the end of the screw part than you can use to hold the middle still while you undo the bolt.


okay thanks, didn't really look at it closely.. was using a socket so... but that should solve my problems thanks!

Hi Guys,

Hoping that someone can point me in the right direction. My rear suspension is lower on one side than on the other, and I'm wondering how to even them. My drivers side is lower by about 1 inch, and I noticed that the shock was leaking so I replaced it.

I've just replaced the entire shock with a good one from another car, but the ride height it still lower on this side. Do i have to do something with the pre loading on the bushes? Car isnt lowered yet, but i have a set of S-Techs ready to go, but wanted the ride height sorted before I started.

John

I have a couple questions after doing this install yesterday. There is a little plastic piece of paper between the top of the shock and the body, I forgot to put that back in one of the fronts. I assume that's no big deal?

On the rear it looks like one of the shocks is leaking. How long do I have? I wish I knew it was bad I would have replaced them yesterday. I also dropped one of the shocks and cracked the white plastic cap on it. Is that bad?

Next time I am paying someone, this took all day. Way longer than 4 hours!

I have a couple questions after doing this install yesterday. There is a little plastic piece of paper between the top of the shock and the body, I forgot to put that back in one of the fronts. I assume that's no big deal?

On the rear it looks like one of the shocks is leaking. How long do I have? I wish I knew it was bad I would have replaced them yesterday. I also dropped one of the shocks and cracked the white plastic cap on it. Is that bad?

Next time I am paying someone, this took all day. Way longer than 4 hours!

if it's leaking, I would replace it as soon as you can. the plastic thing, don't worry about it. White cap I have no idea. Unless it is holding something together, I suspect it is just a cover for something they won't want exposed or to get damaged but since you have a leaking shock anyway, you'll want to replace all 4 at the same time.

And I hear you on the 4 hours time frame, took us like a day to do mine as well.

Johnser:
See if they settle after a few days but if you are replace just a single shock you might end up with weirdness as the others are worn while one is not.

anyone have any updated pictures of the install???

Sorry to revive an old thread.... BUT... I just finished installing megan racing springs on the front with a set of wrenches... IT WAS A TOTAL BITCH!!!!!! My question to anyone that has done this DIY before... Is the rear harder to install than the front? Thanks in advance.

Received my Tein S-Tech springs yesterday. Looked over the directions and I am so glad for this forum. The supplied directions are not great. Went on-line to tein and pulled off better ones, but the pics will help. Thank you. My only suggestion is that anyone attempting to do this themselves should use spring compressors. I rented them from an autoparts store by my house for FREE. Only had to put a deposit down that will be returned. I have heard stores of people getting seriously hurt from not using the proper tools for this job. I am planning on installing them in the next couple of days.

Who said you should do it without a spring compressor? You risk injury or maybe even death if you attempt to take them apart without some means of safely compressing/uncompressing the spring.

Sorry to revive an old thread.... BUT... I just finished installing megan racing springs on the front with a set of wrenches... IT WAS A TOTAL BITCH!!!!!! My question to anyone that has done this DIY before... Is the rear harder to install than the front? Thanks in advance.

Get some better tools. They are cheap. you don't need mega expensive sockets and what not.

The rears are slightly more difficult but not by much but you will need more than wrenches to do it...you'll need some sockets and a nice extension.

Hello there,
I've got some problem with the rear suspension of my RX-8. I was hearing knocking sound lately if someone sits at rear seat and the noise came only from left side. I jacked up the car to see what can go wrong and there it was.
The rubber seal just above the spring was half way out in a way that now spring was touching the body.

I have highlighted the seal area in the picture below
175641


I don't know how to fix this. All I need to do is to lower the spring so that i can reach the seal and put it into its place again but the problem is that I haven't got a clue..
Please help

Hi!

Could anyone please tell me, wich oem springs are for the rear? 2 of them has brown mark and other 2 has pink.

http://www.myrx8.de/federn.jpg