bad idle, tune problem?
bad idle, tune problem?
Hey everyone, so i bought my 8 in december and i am 99.9% sure it has a tune of some sort as i hit limiter at 9500rpm.
i bought the car from a lot and they obviously didnt know anything, but the problem im having is i have a rough idle. ive change all plugs,wires, and coilpacks and the problem persists. could this be a tuning issue? i dont hav an AP but plan on one in the future. would it help if i could find someone with one and just use it to get a datalog? i have a friend with one for his subaru, would i be able to use that to pull a log or is it completely different?
thanks!
i bought the car from a lot and they obviously didnt know anything, but the problem im having is i have a rough idle. ive change all plugs,wires, and coilpacks and the problem persists. could this be a tuning issue? i dont hav an AP but plan on one in the future. would it help if i could find someone with one and just use it to get a datalog? i have a friend with one for his subaru, would i be able to use that to pull a log or is it completely different?
thanks!
no cel. my power steering light keeps going on and off...im going to the dealership for that tomorrow sadly, but the bad idle has been happening since i had the car and im tired of it.
remove maf sensor from intake. Spray with electrical contact cleaner (do not touch the iat/ maf sensors themselves!). let air dry. Replace.
I'll check for the diy
Clean MAF/ IAT sensor
I'll check for the diy
Clean MAF/ IAT sensor
Also, you could clean the power steering connectors, they may be dirty and cleaning the contacts sometimes(most times) straightens that out. Click on a pic for location.
Oh......and rough idle could also be motor mounts.......do an "advanced" search on that. It's usually the passenger side........look for cracks.
Oh......and rough idle could also be motor mounts.......do an "advanced" search on that. It's usually the passenger side........look for cracks.
Last edited by Mazurfer; Mar 27, 2011 at 05:50 PM.
ok so i cleaned the conections on the PS and lathered them in dielectric lube and it hasnt cut out yet.
i pulled the MAF and it deffanitely was dirty, i got it cleaned off and will put it back in tomorrow and give that a shot! fingers crossed!
i pulled the MAF and it deffanitely was dirty, i got it cleaned off and will put it back in tomorrow and give that a shot! fingers crossed!
if it really was that dirty, I'd suggest doing the 20 stomp ecu reset
turn key to "on" position (without turning on car)
pump break pedal 20 times in under 8 sec
if oil gauge sweeps, you're good. If not, try again. (it's a pain to do lol)
turn key to "on" position (without turning on car)
pump break pedal 20 times in under 8 sec
if oil gauge sweeps, you're good. If not, try again. (it's a pain to do lol)
That procedure resets the NVRAM for the e-shaft profile.
Basically good for when you do engine or PCM swaps... or anything related to the e-shaft.
This area of the PCM can not be cleared/reset by other methods such as disconnecting the battery.
Basically good for when you do engine or PCM swaps... or anything related to the e-shaft.
This area of the PCM can not be cleared/reset by other methods such as disconnecting the battery.
Last edited by Jon316G; Mar 27, 2011 at 10:18 PM.
Well... think we found what could really be causing your issues.
The screens are used to reduce the turbulence in the airflow as it passes through the MAF.
OEM (and other intakes) use two screens to straighten airflow... but some seem to get away with one.
It would be best to get the screen vertical again!
The screens are used to reduce the turbulence in the airflow as it passes through the MAF.
OEM (and other intakes) use two screens to straighten airflow... but some seem to get away with one.
It would be best to get the screen vertical again!
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