Hey everyone, Love this site, love the people. Here is my question. Besides intake and exhaust systems, What is the best performance modification for hp/tq gain? I have already installed the Typhoon II by K&N which really helps on the low end and the high end, smoother shifting too, but i want more. What do all you veteran Rotary owners suggest?! Thanks! :Wconfused

Nothing except FI will get you significant gains

However, ignition upgrades (BHR), AP with MMCCS, NOX, lightened driveline, brakes and wheels, underdrive pulleys... the list is long... and pricey.

You're better off keeping it stock from a power mod perspective. Spend your money to go out and DRIVE the car. Do AutoXs, road course lapping days, drag strips, etc. If you really want more power, your money might be better spend on a different car. One becomes accustomed to added power very quickly and to get that old sensation back requires yet more power. :) Handling doesn't get old the same. Think of it this way, if you accelerate really quickly you might pull .2-.3gs, but it's very easy to pull ~1g cornering as your car sits today.

best hp/tq gain for the money is Nitrous.

not to sound like a dick, but
I have already installed the Typhoon II by K&N which really helps on the low end and the high end
you sure about that?
Besides intake and exhaust systems, What is the best performance modification for hp/tq gain?
intakes and exhaust systems (excluding cat-delete pipes) are not a gonna get you a lot of hp or tq, especially for the $$. best performance mods are going to be suspension, ignition (BHR), midpipe/hi-flo cat and an accessport through mazdamaniac
unless you're willing to spend upwards of $5k on FI

accessport with tune from MM

I have already installed the Typhoon II by K&N which really helps on the low end and the high end, smoother shifting too,
whoa, wait, WHAT?!
how does an intake help with smoother shifts? :scratchhe

The K&N intake is a great little noise maker but I'm not a fan of it because it's what I call HOT Air Intake. The OEM intake on the RX-8 is VERY well designed and unless you're changing to another cold air intake (which the OEM already is), then you are most likely decreasing the performance of your intake.
ie; your car used to suck in cold air from OUTSIDE the engine bay. Your K&N sucks in hot engine bay air into your engine.

the idea is to consistantly deliver more cold air to the vehicle, I personally do not believe the K&N accomplishes this better then OEM or other aftermarket intakes.
I've had both the Racing Beat Intake with Ram Air Duct and the AEM intake and both work exceptionally well. I'd suggest one of those two over the K&N.

Not trying to piss in your cheerios but you asked for opinions and those are my $.02

whoa, wait, WHAT?!
how does an intake help with smoother shifts? :scratchhe



dood - you are not up with the play . A good intake will increase the shiftability of your syncros and meshability of your gears - common knowledge ....

awww CRAP!
you mean I've been doing it wrong all this time?!

damn it! I knew this Axial Flow Shifter didn't do chit!

The axial flow shifter actually improves the intake - so it's all good .
Clues is in the name .. Axial flow . See how that works ?

best hp/tq gain for the money is Nitrous.


nothing can beat this :lol2:

My K&N makes my rear view mirror work better too. I can see really far away now.

I added a carbon fiber spoiler and besides the improved radio reception, I get added downforce which gives me probably 7 more mpg, and a 57% hp gain to the wheels.

Hemi?

put back the stock intake, it will give you 5 hp and it's free if you still have the parts.

Starve yourself. Not only do you save money from eating, you also lose weight. Power to weight ratio ftw.

Starve yourself. Not only do you save money from eating, you also lose weight. Power to weight ratio ftw.

LMAO! but on a serious note this is so true! Quote from http://www.torquecars.com/tuning/car-lightening.php on the weight reduction section "Don't just stop with the car - go on a diet yourself (have you ever seen a fat guy win a race? i'm expecting floods of correspondence on this one!)"

you should have read up on the car before buying it if torque is your end goal... or, and bear with me here, try not to grab onto a word like torque and use it like it's the answer to any questions.

People use horsepower and torque when talking about how much they need them. Need them for what?
Enjoy the car as it is, or better yet, take a driving class.

Mods for speed in their proper order:

1) Driver Education
2) Tires
3) More Driver Education
4) Ignition
5) Mid-pipe
6) AEM Intake
7) Properly calibrated PCM
8) More Driver Education
9) Springs/shocks/sways
10) Even more DE

5) & 6) can be replaced with FI, but that skews the hp/& ratio a bit.

My chrome windshield wipers improved my cornering!

Lots of air fresheners.. especially the tree ones. And when your done, just just leave them be, and let them stack up on your rear view mirror.

Might i suggest original pine.

You really need to be careful with the chrome windshield wipers. They are just like chrome rims and will increase the cornering potential but at the cost of lowering your gas mileage. The additional weight on the windshield is just above the engine therefore aids in the 50/50 weight distribution; especially if you have a sound system in the back. Try coupling the wipers with the spoiler and you should be able to get the cornering plus the improved gas mileage. So you need:
Air Fresheners
Chrome windshield wipers
Carbon Fiber spoiler or overlays
Brake caliper paint
Did I miss anything?

You really need to be careful with the chrome windshield wipers. They are just like chrome rims and will increase the cornering potential but at the cost of lowering your gas mileage. The additional weight on the windshield is just above the engine therefore aids in the 50/50 weight distribution; especially if you have a sound system in the back. Try coupling the wipers with the spoiler and you should be able to get the cornering plus the improved gas mileage. So you need:
Air Fresheners
Chrome windshield wipers
Carbon Fiber spoiler or overlays
Brake caliper paint
Did I miss anything?

Greddy decals, along with stick-on hood scoops help a lot too.

Tubingchamp, you are so right. I don't know how many guys waste their money buying greddy parts and they forget to add the greddy decals to their cars. They're losing half of reported gains.

Install iOS 4 via your AP. Oh wait, ... wrong forum.

A way to make that k&n flow more cool air is to install a RB racing beat air duct. And if u want cheap power get on the bottle!

haha ok i think i got it, Air fresheners, decals, drivers ed, midpipe, stock AF drivers ed and chrome wipers! thanks guys!

I think there are all reasons why its better just to search instead of asking questions like "Best HP/TQ gain for the $$".

Concur [for Series I], but they're being discontinued the end of July so act quickly.

Cobb Accessport with tune from MazdaManiac

Mods for speed in their proper order:

1) Driver Education
2) Tires
3) More Driver Education
4) Ignition
5) Mid-pipe
6) AEM Intake
7) Properly calibrated PCM
8) More Driver Education
9) Springs/shocks/sways
10) Even more DE

5) & 6) can be replaced with FI, but that skews the hp/& ratio a bit.


And the world is right again, MM has his patented avitar back.
I know where he gets them but prefer to think he has a peephole in a sorority house at ASU.:naughty:

I appreciate all the input everyone, I do love the way the car drives now, I am not trying to tun it into a rocket or a show car, just add some aggression to the sound and performance (oh and i don't want some loud raspy fart cannon either, i hate that crap -_- ) All my research and thread replies point to the suspension, ignition and minor work to the exhaust system, so I will start there! Thanks again!

is nitrous actually worth it if yea then where do i get the zex kit from n how muchy??

I'm gonna read this thread when I'm sad

is nitrous actually worth it if yea then where do i get the zex kit from n how muchy??

Seriously? You didn't think google would get you an answer faster?

Seriously? You didn't think google would get you an answer faster?
hey u didnt have to be a dick ... the whole reson i even posted was so tht i can save this thread n itll be esier for me to find it.. way to be a jerk man

i farted in my car and the back blast felt like i had a turbo for a sec

i farted in my car and the back blast felt like i had a turbo for a sec

VTEC, yo.

VTEC, yo.

lmfao vtech , tooo funny

From what I have read the afe short shifter is one of the best performance mods for the price. It doesn't add any horsepower or torque obviously but install is simple enough. Actually I think that might be my next mod along with a centerforce dual friction clutch. Just my two Lincolns.

mid pipe and an ap mm tune, that's what I am getting.

i think simple upgrades are the best way to go. Too much ruins the cars OEM feel

Just visit the good folks at Black Halo Racing. One stop shopping.

"Worth it" is a very subjective thing.

is nitrous actually worth it if yea then where do i get the zex kit from n how muchy??

Giggle gas is always worth it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hu7u7DT9cok

You'll only be "slowly" walked by a camaro

^^ thats just sad

tornado































:rollingla

MEGA-HYPER ELECTRO-TURBO SYSTEM® by Terboboyee (http://www.mazdamaniac.com/ebayfake.htm)

MEGA-HYPER ELECTRO-TURBO SYSTEM® by Terboboyee (http://www.mazdamaniac.com/ebayfake.htm)

What if I'm allergic to peanuts? :(

MEGA-HYPER ELECTRO-TURBO SYSTEM® by Terboboyee (http://www.mazdamaniac.com/ebayfake.htm)


Yipeeeee!!! I won the bid. Can't wait till my SII turbo gets here. Now I just gotta find Jethro down and Austin and show him whos' da boss.:lol:

What if I'm allergic to peanuts? :(

Then don't put it in your mouth or anus.

And the world is right again, MM has his patented avitar back.
I know where he gets them but prefer to think he has a peephole in a sorority house at ASU.:naughty:

I thought I fixed that hole in my wall? :SHOCKED:

i think simple upgrades are the best way to go. Too much ruins the cars OEM feel

Mod your RX8 for efficiency. You're not looking to get into racing from the sounds of it, and you're not going to get much more power even after spending a lot of money.

Do research, mod the car to keep it running cool first and foremost. Your K&N intake is doing the opposite (read my sig, I know). Purchase a racing beat ram air duct if you like the noise, or you can drill a hole in your bumper JDM style like I did lol.

Accessport is a good idea but itll cost you 500-600. Then from there a midpipe/test pipe/ high flow cat.

Those above mods will make your car sound louder, give it some more power, and get some more air flowing.

RB Duct - $150?

AP - $595

Buy my used midpipe Im selling - $150

TOTAL - $895

My suggestion for performance bang for the buck, and believe me, if you think $895 is a lot for modding, lol, give up now.

Hope this helped.

If you think about it, I've spent over $2000 for less than 25hp... Get the point?

Cough... Racing Beat REV8, AEM CAI, Cobb AP w/MM Tune

And I'm about to get the BHR ignition system and midpipe, after some basic math you get above $2000

Do what I did...Don't drive your car for 5 months. It feels real fast when you get back in!

If you think about it, I've spent over $2000 for less than 25hp... Get the point?

Cough... Racing Beat REV8, AEM CAI, Cobb AP w/MM Tune

And I'm about to get the BHR ignition system and midpipe, after some basic math you get above $2000

pfft no kidding. It gets pricey fast. Just with my basic mods, Ive spent some good cash as well. Now the repair expenses on the other hand, lol, nevermind lets not go there....

^^^ No joke, and im not even adding in my other mods... hell those were just HP mods...

Why do we do this to ourselves...Oh yeah, 9,000 RPM FTMFW!!!

Do what I did...Don't drive your car for 5 months. It feels real fast when you get back in!

+1 :lol:

Mods for speed in their proper order:

1) Driver Education
2) Tires
3) More Driver Education
4) Ignition
5) Mid-pipe
6) AEM Intake
7) Properly calibrated PCM
8) More Driver Education
9) Springs/shocks/sways
10) Even more DE

5) & 6) can be replaced with FI, but that skews the hp/& ratio a bit.

:rollingla

How much does the cobb and tune really help? Also doesn't the midpipe cause cel?

Cobb clears the CEL and it helps alot... you can really feel the throttle response down low with the AP, and I'm just running the Base map... just flashed it this evening

and NYC DK I effin love your car man

How much does the cobb and tune really help? Also doesn't the midpipe cause cel?

best mod, hands down, you can do. Only problem is you have a couple weeks to get one and theyre pricey.

Im missing that boat unfortunately, going to be a long winter of trolling the FS threads.....

Only problem is you have a couple weeks to get one

I'm not totally sure what you meant there, but you only have three days left to get one and they will ALL be shipping by next week.

and theyre pricey.

Only if you have never had any tuning experience to compare it to.
It is, by FAR, the least expensive tuning option (that actually does something) for any car, anywhere.

If I managed to get an AP somehow after 31st July (ebay or some other way), what can I do to make it work on my JDM 4-port 4at?

Thanks

I'm not totally sure what you meant there, but you only have three days left to get one and they will ALL be shipping by next week.

Sorry I wasn't spot on to the tee with the date

Only if you have never had any tuning experience to compare it to.
It is, by FAR, the least expensive tuning option (that actually does something) for any car, anywhere.

The guy is asking about cheap mods, $600 -$700 isnt always cheap to people :uhh: . I know it's one of the least expensive tuning options.

If I managed to get an AP somehow after 31st July (ebay or some other way), what can I do to make it work on my JDM 4-port 4at?

Thanks

The only way is through me.

So if I managed to get an AP after 31st July, do I need to ship it to you or something like that? I wanted to buy one but am a bit short on funds so I won't be able to meet the deadline :(

So if I managed to get an AP after 31st July, do I need to ship it to you or something like that? I wanted to buy one but am a bit short on funds so I won't be able to meet the deadline :(

Cobb is discontinuing them for the RX8, you will have to buy used after the deadline.

BHR ignition and the HKS Twin power DLI II aren't bad places to start, but you're talking a grand in two parts. You gotta pay to play though.

BHR ignition and the HKS Twin power DLI II aren't bad places to start, but you're talking a grand in two parts. You gotta pay to play though.

You should not use the HKS with the BHR coils. There is absolutely no gain above what the coils do on their own, so it is a total waste of money.

I stand corrected then. Now you're only talking about $500, haha.

Ls1 swap. More aggressive sound, a LOT. more torque. Can be done for under 20k lol

Ls1 swap. More aggressive sound, a LOT. more torque. Can be done for under 20k lol

:uhh:

Is the K&N Typhoon II really as bad as they say?! Does it suck too much heat from the engine bay?

Is the K&N Typhoon II really as bad as they say?! Does it suck too much heat from the engine bay?

Yes it sucks, my MAF temps (including a ram air duct) are typically 20 degrees over ambient and spike up to over 150 degrees when in traffic or at a stop light :SHOCKED:

It sounds good (if you like loud - which I do), and it looks awesome at car shows and meets, but thats about it...

Here's my picture of the ram air duct you were asking about. Sry its the only picture of my car I have at work but you can see it.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161452&stc=1&d=1282771529

If I were to do it all over again I'd just get a CAI (Cold Air Intake), you put the filter outside the engine bay so you don't have to worry about the various under the hood components heat cycling through the filter. The RB Ram Air Duct is good, but even with it as mentioned above, it only really works when you are moving. CAIs work all the time. I have a good pic of the Duct below.

If I were to do it all over again I'd just get a CAI (Cold Air Intake), you put the filter outside the engine bay so you don't have to worry about the various under the hood components heat cycling through the filter. The RB Ram Air Duct is good, but even with it as mentioned above, it only really works when you are moving. CAIs work all the time. I have a good pic of the Duct below.

Agreed. Unless you're looking for noise, or looks, I truly recommend researching the DIY for 'gutting' your OEM intake, and pair it with the duct.... At that point, your intake system would be very similar to RB for a lot cheaper.

Wow, the duct looks a lot bigger than I imagined. I appreciate your insight, im trying to do whats best for the car and the performance. looks like i will invest in the duct. Was it easy to install?

By the way the Custom air duct looks great!

Thanks for the compliment sir

EDIT- BTW, Im currently staying in Silver Lake WI, Im like 20 minutes from Kenosha lol.

Exactly. $185 new and you've essentially got an RB CAI intake that looks stock (because it mostly is). The only 'gutting' is VFAD removal, which you would have to do for any CAI. [well, I did use part of another VFAD to seamlessly mate the RB duct to the stock box]

Agreed. Unless you're looking for noise, or looks, I truly recommend researching the DIY for 'gutting' your OEM intake, and pair it with the duct.... At that point, your intake system would be very similar to RB for a lot cheaper.

sorry for being naive but, whats the VFAD you speak of Huey52? i feel stupid!

variable fresh air duct.

it opens up at around 5k I think. that's where the awesome sounds come from on the stock box.

before 5 k you suck air from a sock with a cone shaped end. after 5k a flap opens up for the vfad and pulls in air like a short ram

no S$*%....so, fresh air under 5000Rpm is extremely important.....the Typhoon II doesn't help the situation cause its pulling heat from the engine bay....which is why everyone tells me to hit up the Revi Air duct and why Renisis07 has made a custom nose scoop to allow cooler air to enter the filter.... >.> sound like i need to get movin on this..Thank you all for helpin me out and being so patient with me!

Word. or you could just buy a 335I and call it a day.

hey u didnt have to be a dick ... the whole reson i even posted was so tht i can save this thread n itll be esier for me to find it.. way to be a jerk man

I am sick of people acting like dicks on this forum. People are here to learn and to inform others. So what if some people dont want to spend hours going through thread after thread or just missed the right thread 40 pages in. We are here to basically support each other. If you want to pull this crap, get online with your XBox and harrass the other kids or nerds. If you dont want to be informative than dont even post or reply. Your intimidating people from posting and giving this club a bad name. We all started from somewhere. We werent born fully knowledgable about rotarys. I may be new as a member to this forum but I have been reading this for years and have been an owner since 03, so by all means Im not new to this. I am sure I am going to here crap for this post so go ahead if you must. Here is my opinion to the original thread though, with this car, its going to have to be FI for large gains. If you just want to make your car stand out from the stocks, then go ahead with the minor things like the ignition (BHR),cold air intake ( i prefer REVi with duct combo), ACCESSPORT calibrated through MazdaManiacs, Exhaust, lightweight power pulleys, Lightweight flywheel, lighten up the car maybe with carbon fiber among other little thing I may have forgotten to mention. But in all honesty this is the wrong car to get the gains you probably want but I still love it and yes I have wasted money for small gains but its my money and my choice. Have fun with your car its still unique. My car turned heads in July of 03 and isstill turning heads basically stock looking besides rims. You dont really see that with other sportscars unless obviously they are rare to the road or public view.:icon_bs:

Thank goodness someone else sees the nonsense. Anyway, I've been reading up on all these "minor" upgrades as well as FI. I'm very interested in racing since I went to an SCCA event earlier this year. Is a FI'ed RX8 any more competition to other cars than an NA?

What I mean is, if I boost my RX8, say with an esmeril kit. Get all the right work done, and even do all the "minor" upgrades, bring it up to over 420 (assuming the minor upgrades do anything after the turbo), then go race it, is still gonna be on the slow end? To sum it up, does FI make it a fast car, or just a fast RX8?

Mods for speed in their proper order:

1) Driver Education
2) Tires
3) More Driver Education
4) Ignition
5) Mid-pipe
6) AEM Intake
7) Properly calibrated PCM
8) More Driver Education
9) Springs/shocks/sways
10) Even more DE

5) & 6) can be replaced with FI, but that skews the hp/& ratio a bit.

Anyone know the rationale behind the AEM being on the list? It's really hard to figure out if I want one when almost everything says intake is just a noise maker, but MM must have a different opinion if it's #6.

aem is one of 3ish intakes that actually make more power

Where in that list is weight loss?

I'd say that is number 2 - lets say you and your car weigh 3300 lbs - you are pushing 14.2 pounds per horsepower.

Now, drop that to JUST 3100 lbs - 13.3 lbs per horsepower - an equivalent gain of.....16 WHP.... best bang for your non-FIed buck.

whats the weight difference of a sport model with no electric seats, sun roof etc? any easy weight loss items that can be removed?

aem is one of 3ish intakes that actually make more power

Yes, but of somewhat nominal value, no? If it plays nice enough with a Cobb and a high flow cat to make it worth it then I'm in. Just can't figure out if that's the case. I'm not interested in being louder.

Where in that list is weight loss?

I'd say that is number 2 - lets say you and your car weigh 3300 lbs - you are pushing 14.2 pounds per horsepower.

Now, drop that to JUST 3100 lbs - 13.3 lbs per horsepower - an equivalent gain of.....16 WHP.... best bang for your non-FIed buck.

That is definitely an outstanding point you made there. Other than the obvious, like lightweight wheels and a treadmill for some of us, where would you shave off the most unnecessary weight?

dont some rid of their A.C?

Mods for speed in their proper order:

1) Driver Education
2) Tires
3) More Driver Education
4) Ignition
5) Mid-pipe
6) AEM Intake
7) Properly calibrated PCM
8) More Driver Education
9) Springs/shocks/sways
10) Even more DE

5) & 6) can be replaced with FI, but that skews the hp/& ratio a bit.

Where's the flywheel.

That is a great mod.
Butt you need to add two more DE's

Where in that list is weight loss?

I'd say that is number 2 - lets say you and your car weigh 3300 lbs - you are pushing 14.2 pounds per horsepower.

Now, drop that to JUST 3100 lbs - 13.3 lbs per horsepower - an equivalent gain of.....16 WHP.... best bang for your non-FIed buck.


Kane I will agree with you but in my opinion the fact of the matter is the RX8 is already very light, unfortunately not for the HP but theres only so much you can do to reduce weight in this car and maintain the 50/50 weight distrubution. Hell 2 piece RB rotors cost a ton, and conbined with rims is about the best your gonna get unless you dont mind losing your 50/50 and gutting your interior. It would almost cost more to remove weight than to go FI and have the stock interior... That 200lbs youd lose would have to come from somewhere, either you're losing weight and going on a diet or your spending a fortune on losing your cars weight.

In my opinion its the power thats lacking, not the weight. Ive always felt a 10-1 HP to weight ratio would be perfect for this car. 3000lbs, 300 hp at fly... means roughly 250-260 at wheels... That would make our car perfect, we know the chassis can handle it...

Just my .02 cents...

That is definitely an outstanding point you made there. Other than the obvious, like lightweight wheels and a treadmill for some of us, where would you shave off the most unnecessary weight?

Well, me personally - I'd go FI....

But if your all motor, instead of paying thousands for a few HP - swap the factory seats, racing battery, go on a diet, lightweight wheels, two piece brakes.

Those are the normal weight saving mods IMO.

Then you can get crazy, take out back seat, relocate battery to trunk, SUPER light seats (Buckets), remove insulation, carbon fiber...yada yada

The point is FI = $10,000, small weight savings = $1000 to $3000 (might save 40 pounds)
AEM, Cobb, Exhausts, and all the normal bolt ons.... = $2000-$6000, all for a few HP here or there.

Unfortunately FI can only last so long on our engines... 50K is about the highest ive heard and it was from my local buddy (Speedy Guy00) and I was suprised it lasted that long.

Long story short, our cars are $$$ to do anything on, to each his own...

If you can get 300HP without FI, I'm going to bet you'd have more money into that engine than if you had just gone FI in the first place....

you cant get 300hp (flywheel) without FI out of this motor. 280ish top. i havent seen anything more than about 265.

Haha yeah Charlie but how much does it cost to get there... Lol...

how did that racing beat flash work out?

sounds like its best driven the way it is...