Car: 2004 Auto RX8 Grand touring package, 52K miles
This weekend I took it to a shop to put on the winter tires and replace the driver side sway bar end link. On my way home from the shop, after about 2 miles, check engine light came on. I checked it at autozone today, and it says the following:
P2070
Intake Manifold tuning valve stuck open bank 1
Probable cause:
1. Linkage stuck or broken
2. Mechanical condition
3. Intake Manifold tuning valve.

I have observed no change in car performance at all. I had decarb done this summer and spark plugs changed.

When auto zone guy checked the code, I think he might have reset it because I didn't see it on my way back home.

I have been reading the forum and it looks like people have noticed loss of power or have had to do decarb to fix this issue. However, I don't have any loss of power and I just had the decarb done.

So, what could be the issue?
Could the mechanic have screwed something while changing the sway bar end link?
Since the light is now reset, should it come back on if I don't get it fixed within a day or two?

That code is for the SSV stuck open.
The valve uses an impact switch to tell the PCM that its open/closed.
Its possible that the switch itself just stuck momentarily and you may not see it again.
Or the switch can be going bad.
We also can't rule out the valve itself actually sticking.
I would give it a few days and see if it returns.

Are you implying that the light should have come right back on if I still had the problem?

If the valve is really sticky, if the switch is bad, or if the solenoid is going bad, what damage can this do to the car?

Are you implying that the light should have come right back on if I still had the problem?
Most likely.

If the valve is really sticky, if the switch is bad, or if the solenoid is going bad, what damage can this do to the car?
Unfortunately, the symptoms are similar to others we encounter.
The last few times I've worked on an RX8 with a truly stuck SSV valve, the guy mentioned that the car had a difficult time maintaining idle when the RPMs dropped and the car wanted to stall.

Most likely.


Unfortunately, the symptoms are similar to others we encounter.
The last few times I've worked on an RX8 with a truly stuck SSV valve, the guy mentioned that the car had a difficult time maintaining idle when the RPMs dropped and the car wanted to stall.

I haven't noticed any hardship in maintaining idle and the car hasn't tried to stall yet. Last time I had the stalling problem was this summer when I found that I did need to replace the spark plugs after 5 yrs. :D I have my fingers crossed and hoping that the problem was momentary.

I did check out your video where you have the engine out of the car. Is this valve something I could check myself easily, given that I don't know much about engines? I am searching the forum right now to see if there is any step by step instruction.

I did check out your video where you have the engine out of the car. Is this valve something I could check myself easily, given that I don't know much about engines? I am searching the forum right now to see if there is any step by step instruction.

If you are referring to the video I made for testing the intake valves, you can easily test it yourself.
Though in that video I'm moving the SSV with my finger and in the car its difficult to reach with your finger since the ACV is in the way.
I just use a long screwdriver instead to move the valve... pressing on the same surface as I do in that video (which is the same surface that hits the impact switch).

If you are referring to the video I made for testing the intake valves, you can easily test it yourself.
Though in that video I'm moving the SSV with my finger and in the car its difficult to reach with your finger since the ACV is in the way.
I just use a long screwdriver instead to move the valve... pressing on the same surface as I do in that video (which is the same surface that hits the impact switch).


Thanks Jon316G. Yes, it's the same video. As you mentioned in your other post, I can't see the switch in it. I am guessing I should be able to see it once I get to it? I will give it a shot this coming weekend if the light comes back on.

You can see the switch in this pic:
147190

You can see the switch in this pic:
147190
Thanks a lot.

Is it possible to have the SSV sticking and not have the cel (2070) go off?

Is it possible to have the SSV sticking and not have the cel (2070) go off?

You would think so, but when my friend had his valve stuck closed, he only received a SSV code once.
And he had the problem for a couple weeks before I could look at it and actually found the valve stuck.
So I can't say you will always get a CEL for a truly stuck SSV.
Though to be honest, he has a midpipe so he always has a CEL... so maybe he didn't realize the P2070 code right away.

I seem to be having a similar P2070 issue myself too. I took my car to the dealership to have CEL diagnosed and they charged me 114$ to run the tests and let me know that it has P2070 and quoted me 2700$ to replace the intake manifold since the stuck valve cannot be loosened. I showed them the service bulletin about P2070 where it talks about cleaning, he said after talking to the technician that because of the miles and they could not rotate the valve it is better to change the intake manifold. Apparently there is some plastic here that can be broken while trying to clean. I have seen the video that you guys have about fixing this and there is no way I can do this on my own. Is this something that I can take it to a reliable mechanic or some one knowledgeable in Portland/Seattle area to get this done. Also if I continue to run my car with the valve stuck will it degrade my engine. He mentioned something like it will affect the emission and performance. I have not noticed any impact on the performance. Will this have any effect on the long term ? CEL is not consistent though, some days it will come on and some days like today it does not. Also I noticed that you guys talk about going to Auto zone to get the CEL diagnosis. How much do they charge for that ?

Thanks for all the talented guys here willing to share the knowledge for rookies like me.

Auto zone did it for free for me. they reset the light after diagnosis and I never saw the light come back on. I have been driving fine all this time. I guess it might have been stuck open momentarily. I was planning on checking (or at least trying to check) it myself, but never got around it. Pepboys also check this light for free.

quoted me 2700$ to replace the intake manifold since the stuck valve cannot be loosened.
More like because the tech doesn't want to go through the trouble of cleaning it.
The tech is assuming that the only way to remove the valve is to remove the engine.
And he figures that since he has to pull the engine anyways, why not just replace the intake manifold instead of cleaning the valve.
What he doesn't realize is that you can remove and clean the valve without pulling the engine.

I showed them the service bulletin about P2070 where it talks about cleaning, he said after talking to the technician that because of the miles and they could not rotate the valve it is better to change the intake manifold.
As I stated above... he doesn't know better.
Apparently there is some plastic here that can be broken while trying to clean
:uhh: Only plastic piece I can think of on the valve assembly is the wire harness for the impact switch.
I think he is just pulling shit out of his ass at this point.
I have seen the video that you guys have about fixing this and there is no way I can do this on my own.
Are you referring to this video I made?
http://www.vimeo.com/7093611
Is this something that I can take it to a reliable mechanic or some one knowledgeable in Portland/Seattle area to get this done.
As long as they know the steps to get the valve out, sure they can do it.
But the question is do you trust them?
Also if I continue to run my car with the valve stuck will it degrade my engine.
It might get to a point where its difficult to keep it from stalling (at least from my experience with a stuck SSV)
He mentioned something like it will affect the emission and performance.
Hope you had boots on while walking through this field of bullshit.

Thanks for keeping me straight on some of the BS form teh dealers. I wish I knew about the autozone thing I would have saved 100$ for the diagnosis. I was talking about the same video..

Right now CEL is not on .. Is expected to come and go when there is a actual stuck valve ?? So there is a possibility of stalling i.e. hard to keep it idling but it should not degrade the engine in any ways right ??
If that is the case I will continue driving till i find a reliable help in Northwest area.. I should probably ask in the northwest forum..

Any other recommendations for me to watch out for to see if SSV is causing a problem or not ? Thanks again for all the info.

In my other video for troubleshooting the intake valves I show how to test the operation of the SSV.
http://www.vimeo.com/5353829

Now you can't move the valve with your finger like I do in that video, but you can use a long screwdriver to push on the same point.
Using the vacuum pump makes it easier, plus you're test the actuator also.
If the valve moves smoothly and without resistance (and the valve returns on its own), then I'm pretty sure your issue isn't the valve itself and could be the impact switch that tells the PCM when the valve is open and closed.
Which in that case everything will operate normally and you shouldn't have any noticeable issues.

wow jon, i dont know what i would do without your posts and knowledge. usually when i have an issue, your posts contain the answers. anyway...

i have a 2004 RX8 GT 6MT about 88,000 miles. dealer says i have had all the TSB's done....

i am having the same issue. i took my car to auto zone and got the same free diagnostic...CODE P2070.

the first time the CEL came on, i didnt notice a power loss. then within a few days, the CEL had turned on and off. about 4-5 days later, with the CEL off, i hit the gas hard while pulling onto the highway. the car felt like it had no power until 5k rpm and then it felt like a turbo kicked it and it roared to 8k like normal. when i shifted into second, and hit the gas (not floored), the engine cut out but did not die. i noticed one other time the engine did lose power above 5k. and my fuel economy is down to about 200 miles per tank (used to be about 250-280 per tank). i filled it up and was at 100 miles at a half tank and have not driven it since. because i have not had time to test any of the equipment. jon, i am watching your video's now.

PDXRX8
i do not know any good shops in the pdx area for RX8's. but i would not recommend ron tonkin in pdx because they told me this would be covered under warranty without me asking lol and i know it is not. since i told him my car has about 88k on it.

Thanks guys for the reply.. SO far in over a week the CEL has not come on again.. I am monitoring the engine feel and it has been good so far. No issues, I am hoping it has magically disappeared. Will give it another week or so.

Lol on Ron Tonkin. I go to Herzog Meier and they are the ones insisting on changing the whole thing and also said while we are at it change some moisture and filtration system for another 300 :)

i have used herzog meire before. they did ok. but all i had them do was replace a taillight and a visor under warranty. lately i have been spending the majority of my little free time working on my gas powered rc truck lol...finally finished it though...maybe i should stop fixing my little truck and fix my life size car hahaha....

time to take it out and run the piss out of it....clear out some of that carbon..

wow jon, i dont know what i would do without your posts and knowledge. usually when i have an issue, your posts contain the answers.

Appreciate the kind words... but I'm just like everyone else who gets curious enough to tinker with stuff.

Since you've been reading my posts... I guess I don't need to tell you whats involved with troubleshooting your P2070 ;)
Feel free to ask any questions and let us know any updates.

And like 04RX8man mentioned, its always good to run the piss out of your car to clear carbon.

i'm going to drive it in the morning. poor thing has just been sitting there giving me sad eyes every morning. and yes JON i will be checking out very very soon.

With an SSV related issue I tend to check the components in the following order:
1) The valve itself (manually moving it).
2) The solenoid
3) The actuator
4) the impact switch

This should give you an idea on where to start if you continue having SSV related codes.

thanks

still havent had a chance to mess with my SSV valve...but i noticed when driving the car, keeping it under 4k rpm, it doesnt throw the CEL. does that mean the SSV doesnt do anything until 4k rpm? kind of like the vFlad? anyway...hoping to get into this weekend...any suggestions are welcome. feel free to PM me anytime...

Actually... the SSV opens at 3250 rpm

$2700 for an intake change? That Tech is a lazy idiot. :icon_no2:

I got a little lazy in checking the valve after I thought the problem was gone.....well, it came back again after a month and half of daily driving......This time around, I specifically asked the Autozone guy to reset the light to which he said that he is not allowed to reset. The light got reset after reading anyways. I still feel no change in driving. I am hoping that this is just gets stuck every now and then triggering the CEL and then starts operating properly and I am also hoping to check the valve this time around :D

my performance is down quite a bit. 180 miles to a tank of gas.

I have a 2004 RX8 GT with about 75,000 miles and it has the P2070 code. The car has the 100,000 mile Certified Pre-Owned Limited PowertrainWarranty does anyone know if this is something that would be covered under that?

you'll just have to read the details of the warranty.

my performance is down quite a bit. 180 miles to a tank of gas.


what was your mileage before the CEL? Are you basing it on a single tank of gas? If so, it could just be bad gas.

I do a mix of city and highway and usually get between 16 and 18 miles/gallon...This hasn't changed after I got the P2070 code.

about 240 to 260mi per tank before the P2070 CEL. and yes i am basing it on a single tank of gas, because i have only driven one tank since i threw the CEL.

my performance is down quite a bit. engine cuts out under heavy load sometimes...and even when floored, it is sluggish....i can feel it hesitating. aka, feels like a civic hahahaa...i'm gonna see if i can move it by hand or not today...

You know, it's funny how I'm going through the same thing this month.

I got my oil change done yesterday (10w30) and failed the emissions. What a coincidence huh? I didn't have a CEL prior to oil change. So I checked with the local Mazda dealership and it'll cost over $800 for parts & labor.

I noticed when I started the car after oil change, the rpm kept dipping, losing power, etc, but after driving for awhile, the CEL disappeared and engine was running fine again. (maybe it took some driving to clear up that carbon buildup, but why after the damn oil change.. I'm curious)

Here's a million dollar question, do you think the car will fail or pass the emissions?

Here's a million dollar question, do you think the car will fail or pass the emissions?

As long as the CEL isn't on (and you have the cat installed) you should pass e-check.
Not sure if they count pending codes as a failure or not.

The only plastic I noticed, were the gears to the APV. There is no plastic to damage in performing the TSB. Lazy dealer for sure.

As long as the CEL isn't on (and you have the cat installed) you should pass e-check.
Not sure if they count pending codes as a failure or not.

The CEL doesn't come on even with pending codes?

As for lazy or poor dealerships they all want money these days, blame recession.
I heard someone got their 8's carbon buildup cleaned out for $120? Sounds like a sweet deal compared to >$800 my local dealership is charging.

Well, I'm getting my free retest for emissions done tomorrow. Hopefully I'll pass now that the CEL is gone. Wish me luck.

The CEL doesn't come on even with pending codes?

Correct.
When a non-critical incident occurs the PCM will store the code as pending and no CEL illuminates.
If the incident occurs a 2nd time it'll illuminate a CEL.
If it doesn't occur a 2nd time, the PCM will ignore the previous pending code and simply delete it.

UPDATE: Found this in the service manual to help explain better:
149397

How long does it take to go to another drive cycle?

How long does it take to go to another drive cycle?

Not exactly sure :)
I'm sure just starting the car for a few minutes and turning it off does not constitute as a drive cycle.
I'll look through the service manual and try to find a definite answer.

How long does it take to go to another drive cycle?

Couldn't find a definite answer, but a Google search found this:
Here is a Mazda drive cycle:
Pre-requisites: MIL off and no DTCs present (this is where clearing your codes comes in); fuel level between 15 and 85%; all accessories OFF; cold start (preferred 8 hour cold soak w/ engine between 68 and 86 deg F at start-up)

1) Start vehicle and idle 5 min.
2) Rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 seconds
3)Rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 seconds
4)Idle engine for 20 seconds with cooling fan stopped.
5)Accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed (in high gear) for 1 1/2 minutes
6) Decelerate to 15 mph, and then drive for 13 minutes at speeds ranging from 15 to 35 mph
7) maintain steady 25 mph for 50 seconds.

Each step of the drive cycle indicates a test for a different monitor on the vehicle (catalyst, o2 sensor, evap, etc) so each step is important. Some vehicles are a pain and may require a few drive cycles.

Not sure if this is even for the RX8 our another model, but I think this shows that you need to take the car out for a good drive to be considered a drive cycle.
So I guess that can be the answer, go out for a nice long drive ;)

Well, I've hit the jack pot!!! Yesterday while I was getting on the freeway, of course giving it the beans, the CEL came on. Took a trip up to Autozone and read off a P2070. I'm at 120900~ miles on an 04 and I just changed the plugs and the oil. Cleaned out the throttle body too. There hasn't been a loss in power, but my CEL is still on.

I'm thinking with my mileage I need to open her up. But Jon316G, do you think I can try the decarb method first?

But Jon316G, do you think I can try the decarb method first?

Sure... can't hurt.

And the CEL will stay on for a couple drive cycles or until you clear the PCM.

Thanks. No need for unneeded surgery, right.

Thanks. No need for unneeded surgery, right.

Hopefully not ;)
But I thought that last year when I fixed a friend's stuck SSV.
It lasted all summer and when the outside temps dropped, the valve started sticking again.
That's when I had to remove the valve and really clean it and the housing.

You have to consider that any form of "decarbing" or cleaning without removing the valve is only cleaning a small percentage of the valve.
So depending on how bad it is, it *could* come back later on.
But you might as well try "decarbing" the valve now and if it returns in the future, you know what needs to be done.

The CEL doesn't come on even with pending codes?

As for lazy or poor dealerships they all want money these days, blame recession.
I heard someone got their 8's carbon buildup cleaned out for $120? Sounds like a sweet deal compared to >$800 my local dealership is charging.

Well, I'm getting my free retest for emissions done tomorrow. Hopefully I'll pass now that the CEL is gone. Wish me luck.


The decarb should be covered under warranty until the 80K/8 yr limit. When I went to the dealer this past summer because my car had stalled several times, they proposed that I needed new spark plugs and decarb done for about 600 bucks and insisted that it was not covered under warranty because my car was 5 yrs old and had 50K miles on it. So, I had them do it and paid the $600. I don't know much about the cars, otherwise I would have changed the stock spark plugs long ago ;) Anyways, I went back with the print out of TSB for engine stall, and they refunded me for the whole 600 bucks.

BTW, they did try to threaten/intimidate me by saying that it was illegal for me to print the TSB.

I had to change my spark plugs and coils last year = over $700..
It was misfiring last year so I got that done, but this year I'm getting the p2070.

balkhu, I didn't know decarb was covered under warranty. I'm going to call my local dealership and see if I can get decarb done.

I'm a new member to this P2070 club, too.:mad:

It happened after I did an oil change. I used a long-neck funnel (bought @ Autozone) to pour in the oil. I inserted it all the way down inside the oil filler tube. But since I got a 5-quart jug, my left hand got a little shaky and I poured it in a little too fast. It didn't spill over the top of the funnel, but it came pretty close to the top. That's when I had to stop pouring to let the oil inside the funnel go down. Now, could that have caused the oil to leak into the SSV, which in turn threw the P2070?

Here's how it goes on my car. The CEL has come on and off by itself a few times. When I try to hit the throttle a little past 5K rpm (not redline) after 5-10 minutes of driving, it will be a little jerky/hesitant right around 5K rpm. But if I try to do it again 5-10 minutes later, there's no problem. If I try to redline it once the car is fully warmed up, it goes all the way up with no issues. Other than that, I can't detect any power loss or anything like a clogged cat would do. (I just had my cat converter replaced under warranty, btw). So, I'm wondering--and hoping--if the SSV is just slightly stuck and I may be able to free it if I try to drive my car hard in order to help it free itself. But then, I also read in some post where Jon316G (the SSV/P2070 guru) said that it wouldn't really do anything...

The dealership wanted over $900 to replace the SSV. I paid a $99 diagnostic fee, said, "no thanks," and ran. I saw the video clip in which Jon316G showed how to get to the SSV to clean it. But I don't think I'm quite capable of tackling something like that by myself. I was thinking if I could just snake a long tubing through the black plastic piece (UIM?) and pour some carb cleaner in...I'm basically trying to find the easiest, least painful, way to free this pain-in-the-ass SSV.

Jon316G, I need your advice, buddy. Thanks!

bassy- First thing you should do is inspect the intake for oil residue since you may have overfilled your oil too much.
Take off the intake's flexible tube and look for oil. Then open the throttle body valve with one hand and stick a finger through there and feel around the bottom of the UIM.
If you have oil on your finger, you'll need to remove the UIM and clean it.

Earlier in this thread I talked about checking the valve to see if its really sticking and posted a link to another video showing how to test it.
Once you find out if there is oil in the intake or past the throttle body, and manually open the valve, we'll go from there.
But I need to know your current situation before I can suggest the next plan-of-attack.

Jon,

Since I have an AEM intake, does that mean that I have to disconnect the alum piping closest to the UIM? Is that where the throttle body is? Sorry, I'm a clueless newbie.

I'll try to do once it gets a little warmer. It's been pretty cold this whole week here in Mass.

Thanks!

Since you have the AEM you'll need to loosen the clamps for the couplers.
Once the clamps are loose, slide the piping towards the front of the car.
The very last coupler is attached to the throttle body.
You'll see a wire harness connecting to the left side of the throttle body.

hey guys is there anyone else that is having trouble playing vimeo vid. on the site --can't get it to do anything? sad,,

hey guys is there anyone else that is having trouble playing vimeo vid. on the site --can't get it to do anything? sad,,

Vimeo is taking its time to load for me.
Give it a few minutes and try again.

[ok and thanks for being there for us quote=Jon316G;3358032]Vimeo is taking its time to load for me.
Give it a few minutes and try again.[/quote]

balkhu, I didn't know decarb was covered under warranty. I'm going to call my local dealership and see if I can get decarb done.

Decarb in itself is not covered. But if you were to go in for "loss of power" or "engine stall" and they propose decarb, then it is covered. This is because these two issues have TSB explaining decarb as the solution. On the last page of TSB, you can see the warranty information which you have to point to. Hope this helps....I am planning on going in at the end of warranty period again to ask for a second decarb and new set of spark plugs :D

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-019-08-1929a.pdf

I found this TSB on the subject....pretty much explains what Jon's video showed. Do any of you guys know if the warranty info on the last page applies for 04 model with 54K miles on it?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-019-08-1929a.pdf

I found this TSB on the subject....pretty much explains what Jon's video showed. Do any of you guys know if the warranty info on the last page applies for 04 model with 54K miles on it?

Nope...Your car is out of warranty, so it's not gonna be covered. My car is an 04 with 36K, but it's also out of warranty. I know that the stealership wanted over $900 to replace the SSV.

I love this car and all. But at the rate the parts are failing left and right, I'm probably gonna have to get rid of it soon. I've had to get new coils, plugs, plug wires, cat converter, and now this damn SSV, all within the last month or so. What's gonna be next? And my car just turned 36K miles. I can't imagine shelling out money for a shitload of parts @ 60K miles. I know it's a rotary, blah, blah, blah...but it's unacceptable to go 100K miles in this day and age without spending big bucks @ every 30K miles.

Sorry for the rant, but I'm just a little po'd.

Since you have the AEM you'll need to loosen the clamps for the couplers.
Once the clamps are loose, slide the piping towards the front of the car.
The very last coupler is attached to the throttle body.
You'll see a wire harness connecting to the left side of the throttle body.


Thanks. I'll try to get to it sometime soon.

I had this code this morning... my first CEL ever ! Cleared it with the COBB, and it hasnt come back so far....

so it looks like i will need to replace some gaskets in order to remove a lot of the parts to gain access to the SSV Valve...if so, does anyone know of a list of parts needed to remove adn clean the SSV??

tksnobords- If you want to play it safe and replace gaskets, I would only worry about the thermostat gasket.
The ACV gasket isn't one to worry about, and the SSV shouldn't be a problem to reuse unless you deform it trying to slide the valve out (which I've done before).

But here are the part numbers (prices from OnlineMazdaParts.com):
Thermostat Gasket- N3H110153 ($3.91)
SSV Gasket- N3H420155 ($6.55)

Nope...Your car is out of warranty, so it's not gonna be covered. My car is an 04 with 36K, but it's also out of warranty. I know that the stealership wanted over $900 to replace the SSV.

I love this car and all. But at the rate the parts are failing left and right, I'm probably gonna have to get rid of it soon. I've had to get new coils, plugs, plug wires, cat converter, and now this damn SSV, all within the last month or so.




If you paid for a CAT...go back and get your money refunded......it is covered for 8yrs/80K miles or something like that...you are still in warranty for that :)

great thanks jon. i il get those ordered asap!

JON - i couldnt find the SSV Gaset on onlinemazdaparts.com. and the pricing was $5.02 for the thermostat gasket...do you get special pricing thru onlinemazdaparts.com?

JON - i couldnt find the SSV Gaset on onlinemazdaparts.com.

Worked for me
149765

finally figured it out...thanks again

Hopefully not ;)
But I thought that last year when I fixed a friend's stuck SSV.
It lasted all summer and when the outside temps dropped, the valve started sticking again.
That's when I had to remove the valve and really clean it and the housing.

You have to consider that any form of "decarbing" or cleaning without removing the valve is only cleaning a small percentage of the valve.
So depending on how bad it is, it *could* come back later on.
But you might as well try "decarbing" the valve now and if it returns in the future, you know what needs to be done.

How can you clean the ssv without taking it apart? take the intake off and open the butterfly on the intake and spray cleaner into the throttle body intake hoping it will get down there? what would you suggest ?/

As I noted earlier... spraying any cleaner through the UIM is only a temporary fix and may not free up a really stuck valve.
When I first worked on this issue, I removed the UIM and sprayed right onto the SSV... that still wouldn't free it up.

If your valve is really sticking, I suggest removing it and cleaning the valve and housing.
Here is my DIY thread detailing this procedure and includes a video:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663

As I noted earlier... spraying any cleaner through the UIM is only a temporary fix and may not free up a really stuck valve.
When I first worked on this issue, I removed the UIM and sprayed right onto the SSV... that still wouldn't free it up.

If your valve is really sticking, I suggest removing it and cleaning the valve and housing.
Here is my DIY thread detailing this procedure and includes a video:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663

Thanks..saw the video and yes,,,it's the ssv that I am talking about..the one that was removed. Mine is sticking in cold weather but otherwise fine. Not a project I look forward too so will have to see how it plays out.

I appreciate you sending the link !

hey jon, how do i test the components of the SSV? i am going to carquest to buy a mity hand pump...

hey jon, how do i test the components of the SSV?

On the 1st page of this very thread (post 16) I linked to the video, and you replied right afterward ;)

Only thing it doesn't show is testing the SSV solenoid, which is a little more detailed to test the switch when its energized and when its not.
I might create another DIY on testing that later...

And any vacuum pump will work... the MityVac is used for bleeding brakes, but it works well for other projects :)

thats mainly what i am curious about, testing the switch. i can test the solenoid with a vacuum pump. and i can clean the ssv itself.

thats mainly what i am curious about, testing the switch. i can test the solenoid with a vacuum pump. and i can clean the ssv itself.

This is from the shop manual:
150019
But you will also notice that you need to apply voltage to the solenoid to activate the "switch".
You can use a vacuum pump if you like, the instructions above lists airflow (positive pressure), but you'll be utilizing vacuum (negative pressure) instead.
So the concept will be opposite when referring to the diagram above, or keep in mind that when you don't build-up vacuum, you have airflow (because the switch/pathway is open).

Hi Jon,
now that the light started to come on more often, I decided to use the screw driver to test the sticky SSV. First few times, it felt like it was stuck and pushing with screw driver would unstuck it and the light would go off. Then I left the car out in the cold for a few days and the light came back on. This time around, I can't even move any parts with the screw driver. It seems like it's completely stuck now. The joints used to move this seem to be completely rusted.

Can I spray something on the rust to see if this is the problem? I am still little hisitant to take it to the dealer with all the stories posted here.

I still do not see any change in drivability. no loss of power or mileage at all. It feels almost as if the SSV were the appendix :D why is this?

Only good way to free the valve is to remove and clean it as I demonstrated in the video.
I've already tried the "spray cleaner onto the valve through the top" idea and it doesn't work that well because you are only spraying a small percentage of the valve.
It might free it up some to run a little bit longer, but as you encountered, it'll just return.

And if you take it to the dealer, they will not remove the valve as I demonstrated.
Instead, they will want to replace the whole lower intake manifold.
A couple hours of your time, the cost of carb cleaner, and some coolant is WAY cheaper than the dealer.

Only good way to free the valve is to remove and clean it as I demonstrated in the video.
I've already tried the "spray cleaner onto the valve through the top" idea and it doesn't work that well because you are only spraying a small percentage of the valve.
It might free it up some to run a little bit longer, but as you encountered, it'll just return.

And if you take it to the dealer, they will not remove the valve as I demonstrated.
Instead, they will want to replace the whole lower intake manifold.
A couple hours of your time, the cost of carb cleaner, and some coolant is WAY cheaper than the dealer.

I have been hesitating to do anything because only thing I have done in the past is changing the brake pads...I definitely don't want to pay for the new intake manifold....I will try to muster some confidence to clean it up in the coming weeks ...Thanks

Or if you can hold off until Spring time and don't mind driving an hour and 40 minutes, you can come up to Ohio and we can work on it.

Or if you can hold off until Spring time and don't mind driving an hour and 40 minutes, you can come up to Ohio and we can work on it.

Hi Jon,
Thanks a lot for the offer. I don't think I can wait that long since I am already past my inspection date of Dec 09. I think your video is clear enough for me to give it a try and I will also try to get one of my friends who works on cars a lot to help me out. Thanks again.

Alright... offer still stands if you need it.
Good luck and keep us posted.

is this the catch can u guys are talking about? whats the difference between the 9mm and 15mm?

http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=AD0000-1151625294

Once again, I've got the P2070. Hubby doesn't want to venture where he's not familiar and says that since it's still under warranty (8yrs, 100,000 miles for those of you who thought it had expired), they should fix it. Guess I can't disagree there, but I just had this done in Nov '08. If they fixed it right, I shouldn't be having these problems so soon. I was able to clear it during the summer several times by running it really hard, but that's not working now and it's starting to get sluggish.

I really love this car, but would like to get better gas mileage. I'd like to keep it a few more years, but if this continues I may not. I just checked the car value and it's down to $7550. Hard to believe. Anyone check out the new Hyundai Genesis? It might be RX8's new competition.

I recently got the CEL P2070 for the stuck open SSV (2004 with 78K miles). I verified this by trying to manually operate the valve and it is not budging. I am experiencing some rough idle and that is about all.

I have had idle problems in the past and recently have had the following major items done:
New PCM (PCM failed - replaced under warranty)
New Cat (replaced under warranty for rough idle)
New Engine (replaced under warranty for rough idle and failed compression)

Immediately after the CAT was replaced, I started to feel a hesitation around 4250 rpm (around when the SSV was to open). It was until after I got the new engine (Failed compression) and kept the car under 3-4K for about a month during the break in period that I started to get the SSV CEL. I suppose not actuating the valve often will do this..figures.

I have checked my throttle body in the past (over a year ago) and it was as clean as a whistle. I have done all of my oil changes and never overfilled the oil, although I didn't do the one after the engine replacement.... I might take another look at the throttle body to see if there is some recent oil build-up.

So 2 questions on the SSV:
- Is this warranty work (Fall under the emissions 80k or engine warranty 100k) to free up the SSV (ideally by removing and cleaning). Sounds as if the Engine cleaner doesn't do the trick.
- Is it just a coincidence that I was feeling hesitation at 4250 rpm after the CAT was replaced? Anyone else experienced this?

Any other comments?
Thanks for the insight.

jdzoom8- I doubt the dealer will cover this since its not emission or engine core related, but you can print the following TSB and take it to them and ask.
Tell them that you verified that its stuck.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-019-08-1929a.pdf

If the dealer won't cover it, either pay for them to do it or do it yourself:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663

Also... if the dealer quotes you a price to perform this, let me know what it is.
I'm real curious.
And I think its a coincidence that the cat was replaced around the same time.
This issue is more prone to occur with colder outside temps.

Will do Jon.

Just curious how long do you think this takes (I watched the video and looks fairly involved to say the least) for the average Joe?

Also, once you removed the SSV, what did you use to clean the manifold and valve?

Just curious how long do you think this takes (I watched the video and looks fairly involved to say the least) for the average Joe?
I would say give yourself a good 3 hours and take your time.
You also need to fill the car back up with coolant since you drained it, so time for that too.

Also, once you removed the SSV, what did you use to clean the manifold and valve?
I used carb cleaner that you can buy from Autozone for a couple bucks.

The dealer quoted ~ $400 to do the work. I do not believe this included the new solenoid, just the removal and cleaning.

I am not sure if it is worth doing the repair if the SSV is stuck open. Besides a CEL and possible rough idle, is there an impact to not doing the repair?

Also, it doesn't seem entirely clear what is causing the SSV to gum up anyways. Is it just oil getting into the intake...combustion deposits?? How does one avoid this in the future.

Lastly, supposedly the TSB calls out to install a modified solenoid with a stronger actuating force. Has anyone had experienced the same issues with the new solenoid? How about repeat SSV issues after removing the SSV, cleaning it, and reinstalling it?

Thanks.

The dealer quoted ~ $400 to do the work. I do not believe this included the new solenoid, just the removal and cleaning.
What makes you think a new solenoid is required?
Its only an electric switch that opens a pathway for the vacuum already present in the vacuum chamber/intake.

Besides a CEL and possible rough idle, is there an impact to not doing the repair?
Besides rough idle you can start to have power loss and I've even seen stalling.

Also, it doesn't seem entirely clear what is causing the SSV to gum up anyways. Is it just oil getting into the intake...combustion deposits?? How does one avoid this in the future.
I've seen where overfilling the oil caused this (in '04 or '05 models) and it can be from just engine deposits.
Its still unknown (to me) if the new valve and actuator really helps eliminate this issue or just prolongs it.

Lastly, supposedly the TSB calls out to install a modified solenoid with a stronger actuating force.
Or it appears that an actuator that requires less vacuum is used in the newer version.
Therefore, instead of requiring 10in.Hg of vacuum to the actuator to fully open, only 5 is needed (for example).
The original solenoid is still pulling the same vacuum on a diaphragm that requires half of that.

I have not had my hands on the new valve and actuator to tell you exact numbers, but that is what my guess on how they revised this.
I'll try to find out more information on the actuator.

Has anyone had experienced the same issues with the new solenoid?
Again... where do you see this in the TSB?
152021

How about repeat SSV issues after removing the SSV, cleaning it, and reinstalling it?
I have not seen repeat issues after cleaning, though not many have tackled this themselves that I'm aware of.
It was about Dec '09 that this was discovered and relayed here on the forum, so its still fairly new.
I honestly have no doubt that it can return with the original valve and actuator.
But it'll be difficult to judge the new version... your engine might go before the valve does again ;)

thanks jon316G for the DIY. I just got the stupid code P2070 i will be cleaning my ssv this weekend. :)

you are the man!

lepichichi- Like I warn everyone else, please verify that the valve is actually stuck before going through the trouble.
Other things like the solenoid can also cause this code.

Jon -

I thought I saw somewhere in one of these posts around the gaskets required...Is it just the SSV and ACV? Any other parts to order to prepare for the repair?
How about special tools required to get to any bolts? Any other items worth noting? Thanks for your help!

This is straight from the TSB - note the stronger actuator (N3H5-20-160F Vavle, Shutter-Manifold (SSV)). I also included the TSB.

DESCRIPTION
Some vehicles may experience a MIL with DTC P2070 (SSV Stuck Open). This may be caused by carbon build
up near the SSV bushing, which may cause driveability concerns (hesitation and / or lack of power) and / or
DTC P2070. A cleaning procedure and a revised SSV with stronger actuator force is now available.
Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

jdzoom8- Only gasket that would be nice to replace is for the thermostat.
I wouldn't worry about the SSV or ACV unless you deform the SSV gasket trying to remove it.

No special tools required.
Mainly 10mm and 12mm sockets and combination wrenches will get the job done.
A telescoping magnetic rod it nice so you don't drop bolts into the abyss... really good for the SSV bolts (which you see me use in the DIY video).

Far as the TSB I have yet to try the stronger actuator/valve so I can't really say much about it.
My opinion, the new assembly will only prolong the sticking issue, but its unknown for how long.
Your engine may likely die before the new assembly sticks... but again, that's my guess.
I do like how in the TSB they lay a shop rag over the runners so the build-up doesn't run down into the engine.

Thanks - do you have the part number for the thermostat gasket or can you direct me to the other thread which identifies this and the cost.

Thanks.

jdzoom8- Only gasket that would be nice to replace is for the thermostat.
I wouldn't worry about the SSV or ACV unless you deform the SSV gasket trying to remove it.

No special tools required.
Mainly 10mm and 12mm sockets and combination wrenches will get the job done.
A telescoping magnetic rod it nice so you don't drop bolts into the abyss... really good for the SSV bolts (which you see me use in the DIY video).

Far as the TSB I have yet to try the stronger actuator/valve so I can't really say much about it.
My opinion, the new assembly will only prolong the sticking issue, but its unknown for how long.
Your engine may likely die before the new assembly sticks... but again, that's my guess.
I do like how in the TSB they lay a shop rag over the runners so the build-up doesn't run down into the engine.

do you have the part number for the thermostat gasket

152248
Part Number = N3H110153

So I finally got around to pulling out the SSV yesterday. Thanks a lot for the video and info Jon.

All in all it went pretty smooth. Had a few extra hands so that made things easier. Took about 5 hours or so.

The SSV was pretty tough to physically pull out. It was gummed up pretty good. I used some Mazda engine cleaner and carb spray to clean it up.

I also open up my throttle body and did not find any build-up. I open up my upper intake manifold extension above the SSV and it didn't look too bad, just a little build-up. I am not sure where it is all originating from, but there was a lot of build-up in the runners below the SSV so I am assuming engine combustion....

The car accelerates smoother...no hesitation when the SSV opens and idles a bit better, but still fighting some idle issues unrelated to this valve...not sure what else is left to fix that problem. The CEL went away upon restart. I did not have too much trouble restarting the car, it cranked for about 2 seconds. I did make sure to cover the intake runners below the SSV so all the build-up didn't go into the engine. I was unable to get the back of the cavity all cleaned up...but the SSV actuates easily and freely now.

Oh...one thing I did find was a small sliver of metal in the thermostat (about 2 inches long and very thin). I do not believe it is part of the thermostat and not sure where it came from. So that was interesting. Any thoughts on that one?

Also, anyone ever blanked off there ACV line to the Exhaust? Thoughts on this?

Thanks again! It was a pretty good Saturday task and a good learning experience.

Good job jdzoom8... glad it worked out OK.
People who run without a cat can remove that hard-pipe below the ACV and install a blank/plate where the pipe would connect to the exhaust manifold.
I remember hearing that a company actually sells this plate, but I can't think of who at the moment.
But its nothing you couldn't easily fab yourself.
Also, you would have to disconnect the electrical connection on the solenoid for the AIR system so it doesn't create an air leak in the intake.

Far as the metal sliver you found in the thermostat... not sure.
Can you take a pic of this piece?

I think Racing Beat sells that plate....

I think Racing Beat sells that plate....

That's what I originally thought too, but couldn't find it on their site.
I'll check again.

looks like i'm going to have to do this one, has anyone in NJ done this and willing to help?

i've got a P2070 that came on once and awhile about a year ago, the car has had issues on and off with starting and stalling so it's not been driven much and i'd really like to see it on the road this summer without issues.

mazda wants to replace the intake manifold, which i would guess means removing and cleaning the SSV (else why do it?) for 2200$ parts+labor, which means dropping the engine all for this?..

i'm guessing you can't remove the LIM without dropping the engine? but in the case of P2070 and carbon buildup, is the carbon localized to the SSV + UIM? does the LIM get significant buildup at all? if so, how is it best to be cleaned without removing it?

what a headache.

bay- Have you (or the dealer) actually verified the valve itself it stuck by attempting to cycle it?
Other things could cause this code including the solenoid, actuator, or impact switch.
I just want you to be certain before you tackle this (unless you really want to).

The $2200 will be for the whole intake manifold + labor... they won't bother trying to remove and clean the valve.
Sometimes its just easier for them to replace an entire component rather than tearing it down to clean/repair.

Does the SSV get replaced if you are getting your engine replaced?

^nope, the warranty only covers the core and CAT. It doesn't cover any LIM or UIM.

Well, I've hit the jack pot!!! Yesterday while I was getting on the freeway, of course giving it the beans, the CEL came on. Took a trip up to Autozone and read off a P2070. I'm at 120900~ miles on an 04 and I just changed the plugs and the oil. Cleaned out the throttle body too. There hasn't been a loss in power, but my CEL is still on.

I'm thinking with my mileage I need to open her up. But Jon316G, do you think I can try the decarb method first?

Even though you're out of warranty, if you've had an engine replacement or any prior carbon related problems (APV motor, intake, etc.) have the dealership check with Mazda and they might cut you a break. I guess there are updated parts for the SSV, but the way I look at it...if my original SSV took 100k to get gunked up enough to throw the 2070 code, why not just clean it and it should last another 100k? Why pay hundreds extra for the updated parts when I won;t even keep the car that much longer.

jdzoom8- I doubt the dealer will cover this since its not emission or engine core related, but you can print the following TSB and take it to them and ask.
Tell them that you verified that its stuck.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-019-08-1929a.pdf

If the dealer won't cover it, either pay for them to do it or do it yourself:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663

Also... if the dealer quotes you a price to perform this, let me know what it is.
I'm real curious.
And I think its a coincidence that the cat was replaced around the same time.
This issue is more prone to occur with colder outside temps.

I think my dealer quote was close to 1k parts and labor. NO came out of my mouth before he even finished the sentence, but they are checking with Mazda for me to see if they can do anything since I have had prior carbon related issues. I had the engine, intake, and APV motor replace under warranty.

Just got my 05' RX8 serviced at the dealership for the same error code. He quoted me $600 for parts and labor. The engine was replace a year and a half ago so how could there be build up from 40k miles?

I have been reading around these threads and see that it could be fixed by running the engine hard. Can anyone confirm that it actually makes the CEL go away?

Should i just wait till warmer weather before i spend that money to have it fixed or would that cause too much damage?

The car still runs idle but does vibrate, but doesnt stall. Slight hesitation during acceleration but seems to run like shit every winter.

I have been reading around these threads and see that it could be fixed by running the engine hard. Can anyone confirm that it actually makes the CEL go away?

No guarantee that "running it hard" will eliminate this CEL.
Also depends on if the valve is actually sticking... could also be the solenoid, actuator, or impact switch.

No guarantee that "running it hard" will eliminate this CEL.
Also depends on if the valve is actually sticking... could also be the solenoid, actuator, or impact switch.



Well dealership diagnosed that it was the shutter valve, and that's what they plan to replace. So $600 may not even fix the problem if thats not the case.

Well dealership diagnosed that it was the shutter valve, and that's what they plan to replace. So $600 may not even fix the problem if thats not the case.
Did they verify the valve itself was sticking?
They might have just been going off the code, but many SSV related components can cause that code

Did they verify the valve itself was sticking?
They might have just been going off the code, but many SSV related components can cause that code


Yes. and they said the valve can't be cleaned or fixed and has to be replaced due to a "custom" part. Not sure how much of that is BS

Yes. and they said the valve can't be cleaned or fixed and has to be replaced due to a "custom" part. Not sure how much of that is BS

The BS level is through the roof:
:bsmeter:

You can read all about this here:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663
The "custom part" they might be referring to is the upgraded valve, which can be purchased without going through the dealer if you wish to install yourself.
The part numbers are at the bottom of the first post in the link above.
Though most just remove and clean the valve.

Yeah i thought so too. He also took the liberty to suggest i replace my engine mounts too. Yeah i love giving my money away why not!!!


Good news though. My CEL went away. Weather got warmer this past weekend. Dont know if that had anything to do with it, but it runs the same as it has when it was on, which isnt bad cos it ran fine.

Once again, I've got the P2070. Hubby doesn't want to venture where he's not familiar and says that since it's still under warranty (8yrs, 100,000 miles for those of you who thought it had expired), they should fix it. Guess I can't disagree there, but I just had this done in Nov '08. If they fixed it right, I shouldn't be having these problems so soon. I was able to clear it during the summer several times by running it really hard, but that's not working now and it's starting to get sluggish.

I really love this car, but would like to get better gas mileage. I'd like to keep it a few more years, but if this continues I may not. I just checked the car value and it's down to $7550. Hard to believe. Anyone check out the new Hyundai Genesis? It might be RX8's new competition.


100k warranty won't cover SSV. I tried. Even the dealership told me that Mazda are real pricks with this warranty. The horrendous customer service from Mazda since I bought this car alone makes me not want to buy another Mazda again. In many cases they are trying to pretend these MAJOR problems don't exist and aren't widespread.

The BS level is through the roof:
:bsmeter:

You can read all about this here:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663
The "custom part" they might be referring to is the upgraded valve, which can be purchased without going through the dealer if you wish to install yourself.
The part numbers are at the bottom of the first post in the link above.
Though most just remove and clean the valve.

If the valve is just gunked up (which is probably the case for P2070) theres no reason why the dealer can't remove it and clean it if you don't want to try to DIY. Of course they will tell you you have to replace the whole assmebly but it isn't necessary. I've had my 8 for 7 years now and it just started having SSV issues. I figure if it took 7 years for the valve to get gunked up, all you need to do it clean it and it should be good to go for another 7 years. There is an updated, stronger actuator available which is why they will want you to replace the whole thing but is by no means necessary.

If the valve is just gunked up (which is probably the case for P2070) theres no reason why the dealer can't remove it and clean it if you don't want to try to DIY. Of course they will tell you you have to replace the whole assmebly but it isn't necessary. I've had my 8 for 7 years now and it just started having SSV issues. I figure if it took 7 years for the valve to get gunked up, all you need to do it clean it and it should be good to go for another 7 years. There is an updated, stronger actuator available which is why they will want you to replace the whole thing but is by no means necessary.

I'm confused. :scratchhe
You said this after quoting me... are you trying to tell me something?
Nothing you mentioned is anything new that I haven't said already.

Hey Jon, Do you have to drop the engine to change the actual secondary shutter valve? The dealer quoted me at 752.18 (parts and labor included along with seafoam) to replace it with the new one. If they have to drop the engine, wouldn't that cost a lot more.

Hey Jon, Do you have to drop the engine to change the actual secondary shutter valve?

Nope.
Watch the video in this thread and you'll see how its done ;)
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663

Nope.
Watch the video in this thread and you'll see how its done ;)
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663


You rock man.

Looks like I'm part of this party, my valve got stuck today. A friend of mine helped me identified the problem. Since the valve is stuck he recommended to carbon clean the engine and that would fix it. Just like that? Would the valve not stick no more or do I have to stick a long screwdriver to unstick it first and then carbon clean?:dunno:

Decarbing the engine has NOTHING to do with the SSV and you'll be wasting your time

Oops. Misused my words back there. The valve is not stuck, more like it sticks. Would decarb still work?

Nope

If the valve is showing signs of sticking, its best to remove and clean it.
Freeing the valve (without removing it) is only a temporary fix and will likely return.
When I freed a stuck valve, it returned about 6 months later and then I had to remove/clean it.

If a temp fix is what you're looking for now, I would recommend that you remove the UIM so you have a visual sight of the SSV.
Then spray carb cleaner right onto the valve while you cycle it open/close.
Repeat several times until you're satisfied.

If you watched my SSV Removal video, you would have seen at the end of the video, once the valve was removed, the entire housing was covered with build-up.
And then if you remove the UIM to free the sticky valve, you'll notice that most of the valve isn't visible through the runners.
This is why you can't completely clean the valve of build-up without removing it... because a good part of the valve is not exposed.

Since it has warmed up, I haven't thrown any CEL's for it, but nevertheless I am going to get it cleaned out as well as a full engine seafoam next week. Can't wait! Also getting new plugs, coils, and MSD wires. I'll be set!

Nope

If the valve is showing signs of sticking, its best to remove and clean it.
Freeing the valve (without removing it) is only a temporary fix and will likely return.
When I freed a stuck valve, it returned about 6 months later and then I had to remove/clean it.

If a temp fix is what you're looking for now, I would recommend that you remove the UIM so you have a visual sight of the SSV.
Then spray carb cleaner right onto the valve while you cycle it open/close.
Repeat several times until you're satisfied.

If you watched my SSV Removal video, you would have seen at the end of the video, once the valve was removed, the entire housing was covered with build-up.
And then if you remove the UIM to free the sticky valve, you'll notice that most of the valve isn't visible through the runners.
This is why you can't completely clean the valve of build-up without removing it... because a good part of the valve is not exposed.


its actually pretty easy to do the first time. as long as you have enough time to do it. i freed mine by hand a few times before removing and cleaning it.

its actually pretty easy to do the first time. as long as you have enough time to do it. i freed mine by hand a few times before removing and cleaning it.

OK... I'm confused... why are you quoting me on this?

you said...."Freeing the valve (without removing it) is only a temporary fix and will likely return".....and i did do that a few times, but like you said, its a temp fix. thanks for all your help when i had my SSV issues.

I have a question, i'm attempting to clean my SSV this weekend but I'm curious to know what are you guys using to clean the SSV? ZOOM engine cleaner?? thanks

I have a question, i'm attempting to clean my SSV this weekend but I'm curious to know what are you guys using to clean the SSV? ZOOM engine cleaner?? thanks

I've always used Carb Cleaner

^^ thanks Jon, BTW your videos are always of great help, thanks again

I've always used Carb Cleaner

Hey Jon, got a problem that you might know. Still haven't thrown a CEL with that p2070 code again, but my car stalled today at a stop sign. You think its because of the SSV? Going to get it fixed at the end of april, but I thought i'd ask. Guess I might do coils, plugs, and wires too to be on the safe side. Coils and plugs aren't that old, but I only drive the car maybe once a week. What do you think?

Still haven't thrown a CEL with that p2070 code again, but my car stalled today at a stop sign. You think its because of the SSV?

Nothing right now is pointing directly to the SSV being the culprit.
Feel free to test the valve's movement just to be sure, but other items could cause this such as ignition, compression, or fuel pump.

Nothing right now is pointing directly to the SSV being the culprit.
Feel free to test the valve's movement just to be sure, but other items could cause this such as ignition, compression, or fuel pump.

Ok well thanks, but I forgot to mention that about 500 miles ago it through a p2096 (running rich i think) after I filled up my gas. I guess i'll start with ignition first when i get the SSV fixed. I would drive it over to you (about a 7 hr drive), but i'm afraid it won't get there without having issues.

PS: Also my car has 78k miles on it, so I might just go ahead and change the fuel filter too. This has me puzzled because it's not throwing any CEL's at the moment and it doesn't act like its sputtering.

Well, I just joined the infamous p2070 code!! Only @51K miles and have to deal with what I just read is total asinine by Mazda!! If this car wasn't so unique, I would have gotten rid of it a looooong time ago. No sane customers would want to have to hassle with the damn stealerships/Mazda to have this addressed, ESPECIALLY, when it is a very well known issue on this "stuck" issue!!!

I just threw in a can of seafoam into the gas tank and will drive the piss out of it in hopes that it will at least remove the carbs. Next step would be some in the oil crankcase. If that doesn't work, either deal with it or have someone help me in the apparent 5 hrs project. Either way, not a good feeling I have for Mazda right now....

I just threw in a can of seafoam into the gas tank and will drive the piss out of it in hopes that it will at least remove the carbs. Next step would be some in the oil crankcase.

Stop dumping fluids into random places hoping to solve a problem.
Fuel is dispensed further downstream in the intake runner and will never reach the SSV.
And oil isn't even injected into the intake, so not sure why you thought that would help.

Just use the DIY to narrow it down and stop guessing/assuming.
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663

Dang..so much for my attempt at avoiding the 5 hrs. project..thanks Jon!!


Stop dumping fluids into random places hoping to solve a problem.
Fuel is dispensed further downstream in the intake runner and will never reach the SSV.
And oil isn't even injected into the intake, so not sure why you thought that would help.

Just use the DIY to narrow it down and stop guessing/assuming.
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663

Dang..so much for my attempt at avoiding the 5 hrs. project..thanks Jon!!

Trust me... if it were as easy as dumping fluids into the gas tank, I would have suggested that.
I've even removed the UIM and sprayed carb cleaner directly onto the valve with no success (same car as in my video).
Again... this all is under the assumption that the valve it truly stuck/sticking.

Alright guys well i invested in me a diagnostic tool scan my pcm having this rx8 for 2years im tired of going up to auto zone, after running it i got codes: P2070, P0302, P0420, and p0704. After doing lots of research going in n out of threads i see Intake Manifold tuning valve stuck open bank 1 is what is malfunctioning so ima pull that and clean it following a thread i found. I also found from code P0302 that i have a Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected, i believe that is a result of me having a bad ignition #2 coil is what the tool is saying, to cure this i will buy the BHR ignition kit, yes overkill but ive been eying it on here for a while that that Charles guy is selling because i been needing to change my wires and coils anyways, it seems to make a big difference so i will invest in it, if anyone have any info or suggestions on it speak up im still learning so im ALL EARS! Based off what ive said if u got anything else to help out it'll b greatly appreciated seeing that i cant drive for 10 to 15 miles without it killin on me and fouling the plugs and having a etremly hard time cranking up! Wish me luck my 8 is too clean to b sittin in the garrage :pat:

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Got the code 2070. Over the course of the last year, off and on poor throttle response at lower rpm range and assumed it was just the nature of the beast. Over the last week seemed a bit more than normal and threw in the fuel injector cleaner gas addaitive and not much of a difference. Monday drive home from work and the engine light came up while passing another car (don't ask at what speed) and the Check Engine Light came on. Uh, oh. Long story not so long, I had my odb2 datalogger scan the codes and seen P2070.
Great input on all of the various threads here on the subject and I was at the dealer the very next day armed with knowledge.
The end result was the replacement of the valve over 2 days of it at the dealer. Charges: diagnostics $80 dollars, Valve and misc. parts $350.
Result: Smoother idle, better throttle response throughout the rpm range, especially long and steep uphill grade (cough) acceleration without needing to downshift.
If the SSV can stick or is inconsistant with it's operation, in either opening or closing, the symptoms leading to the issue may not be because it 'stuck open'.