Installation instructions, with pictures.

If you want a copy of this sent to you by email, please send an email request to:
sales@canzoomer.com


THIS WAS UPDATED March 13, 2005

Number 2:

Number 3:

#4:

#5:

#6: Expanded detail on the previous step.

#7:

#8: Most of these steps are taken to make a bit more room in the ECU box for our new computer.

#9:

#10:

#11:

Wow, nice Maurice! :D

...can't...wait....must....hold....on....going.... crazy....here....

I know you mention to "store" the upper half of the ECU Cooler Box but you may want to reiterate at the end of the procedure that this is the only piece that will be left over after it is fully re-assembled.

Thanks, directions look pretty clear to me!

NOTE FROM CANZOOMER:
NO! There are several pieces left over, including 6 screws, 3 brackets, and 3 bolts, and a rubber ring from the wire harness.
AS WELL as the top of the "cooler" box.

Originally posted by brothervoodoo
I know you mention to "store" the upper half of the ECU Cooler Box but you may want to reiterate at the end of the procedure that this is the only piece that will be left over after it is fully re-assembled.

Thanks, directions look pretty clear to me!

No.
The 3 brackets and the 6 screws that hold them on the cooler box, and the 3 bolts that tie those brackets down are also left out.
This is to make room by lowering the ECU, and by getting those brackets out of the way.
It also makes for a lot less work later if you want to reverse the procedure.

Well, I can certainly see where all the delays in making the unit fit better went to. That is one hell of a nice setup IMO, and I cant wait to show it off.

Hell of a job guys, contgrats.

Wow, doesnt look that hard.. You can see the hard work that was put into development that's for sure! AWESOME.

Got some questions..

So does that mean that whole ECU/CZ-ECU area will be left uncovered and exposed? Is that safe?

edit.. sorry, I answered my own question, haha, I didn't clearly read that last picture's caption.. it says you replace the ecu cover, bolts and wiring clips, etc, VOILA, engine bay will look like normal!

We're not sure without temp. measurements (and it's probably not necessary anyway as the stock ECU cooling appears to be so inefficient), but we think with the cooling air now venting through the ECU box, cooling will be much better. Stock they rely on the cooled plastic assy. to cool the air in the large ECU box (the one you remove the lid of). Once modified, the air in the ECU box is the cool air. I'm sure the engineers were worried that the air could contain contaminants (dust, water, etc) but when you see the cooler assy. you will note it is not really sealed, so that stuff would get in the larger box anyway.

Oh well, the cooler assy. looked cool anyway ;) .

If you drive into a deep flooded channel, either way you -may- get the ECU wet. So don't. The snorkel effect may stop it from filling, but I wouldn't want to find out!

We tell you to check the switch just before closing the box because it is easy to bump into the wrong position. It's a slide switch and the "knob" sticks out a bit.

Originally posted by RX-8 friend

We tell you to check the switch just before closing the box because it is easy to bump into the wrong position. It's a slide switch and the "knob" sticks out a bit.

As we are in the computer business we field a lot of tech support calls.
One of my favourite moments is when you start trouble-shooting a problem over the phone, and we ask the first question:
"Is it turned on"

And then you hear a silence for a while.. Then the person comes back on line and says: "Umm, thanks, sorry for bothering you."

Nice setup Maurice........

Perhaps too obvious to all except certain lawyers like me, but did not see instruction exactly when to disconnect the 5 plugs that are later re-connected (2 to ECU and 3 to the CZ unit). Perhaps will be clear when unit is in hand. Really appreciate the step-by-step with pictures.

Well, I know a couple of potential stalking victims now.

Although Oz is a bit farther away than I could manage on a regular basis.

Originally posted by racerdave
Also, isn't the top cover re-installed after the piggyback is added?
The caption on the last picture ( right hand side) says:
"At this point one may replace the ECU box cover, re-install the three bolts, wiring harness clips, etc."

So, yes!

I just did not see the need to show pictures for steps that are the reverse of the first 3!

I did mention that one should re-connect the battery ground last, but actually the last step is to install the battery cover and engine cover..

Seemed pretty obvious to me.

But then I can do this blindfolded by now.

I guess I was just wondering (although you've made it clear from your posts) if all that stuff *really* fit inside the housing. :)

On a related note, you don't think there's too much "stuff" in the ECU box now to allow adequate cooling? I realize cooling isn't an issue in Alberta this time of year, but Oz or Arizona is another matter. Thanks.

Originally posted by racerdave
I guess I was just wondering (although you've made it clear from your posts) if all that stuff *really* fit inside the housing. :)

On a related note, you don't think there's too much "stuff" in the ECU box now to allow adequate cooling? I realize cooling isn't an issue in Alberta this time of year, but Oz or Arizona is another matter. Thanks.
That is one of the important points of this procedure.
The stock "cooling" does next to nothing.
They run air around inside a plastic duct inside the ECU box.
Plastic is a dandy insulator.

Our method removes the top of the box, adds filter foam to the ducts to prevent dust and debris from accumulating in the box, and allows the actual outside air to circulate through the box.

The only bad thing I canthink of about doing it this way is that once in a while you need to remove the filter foam pieces and wash them so they do not plug with dust.
A very easy task, but one that should be done once in a while, especially if you are in a very dusty location.

Thanks for asking!

UPDATE: After over a year, we find that the foam does not help much.
We see very little or no dust in the ECU box, and the foam does little.
My advice now is to leave it out, unless you are in a particularly dusty environment.
Perhaps check after a month, just to make sure.
No foam = better cooling.

I am a bit concerned about not using the brackets to secure the ECU in place. Won't this allow the unit to get tossed around in there? It seems the brackets are there for a reason. Any thought on this from anyone?

Otherwise, I am very interested in giving this thing a try.

EDIT: March 13, 2005 (by CANZOOMER):

There is very little room inside the ECU box.
It does not get "tossed around"
In fact, hard mounting simply transmits engine and road vibration to the ECU, so this method is likely to prolong parts life a littel bit.

If you are still concerned, a little foam tape may be used, but it does little..

Originally posted by golf_nut
I am a bit concerned about not using the brackets to secure the ECU in place. Won't this allow the unit to get tossed around in there? It seems the brackets are there for a reason. Any thought on this from anyone?

Otherwise, I am very interested in giving this thing a try.
Nope. No tossing.
It fits sidewise with about 1.4" of slack, and we have provided some chunks of peel& stick 1/8" foam tape.

As far as vertical play, there is none. With our box in place the lid just touches our box. On the bottom of our box there are rubber feet between it and the ECU.

The tape on the sides, and the pads between provide the ECU and our case with some foam shock protection.

Any confirmations on whether this will work in the UK?

I need more speeeeeed...... :D


-andy-
Edited March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
There are reports that cars sold in the UK may have an extra "security bracket" installed in the ECU box.

Apparently they are discouraging people from modifying their cars.

All of the above instructions till work, but one must also cut away this riveted bracket.

A die grinder with a small cutoff wheel works.
Even a Dremel tool will do the trick.

Be sure to take a good shop vacuum and a soft brush and suck away any metal dust afterwards.
Do NOT use compressed air to blow it out, as that will drive metal particles into the ECU and steering control unit, which would be a BAD THING!


Anyway, if you are a UK owner, pop off the cover and look first.. :eek:

Canzoomer,

Racedave brings up a very good point. For those of us running in very hostile summertime environments (i.e., places where outside ambient can reach 115F+ degrees), how should your box and it's components hold up. Engine bays can easily top 300F sitting in traffic, probably higher? Was any type of heat soak test done to your box to ensure operability at these kinds of operating temps? Just curious.

Also, Arizona is notorious for having these kinds of high temps (110F+) with extremely low humidity in the single digits (kind of like running a huge hair dryer into your intake). I'm concerned that anything more aggressive than Stage 1 could lead to detonation, especially considering that we only have 91 octane.

Sorry if this has been answered before. There's just so many threads and replies on this topic that it's nearly impossible to read them all!

Edited March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
After more than a year, we have seen NO reports of overheating problems.

Some were still concerned that the ECU gets warm ( no different than stock, BTW) and have cut off the air intake "snorkel" and installed a small 12V DC fan on the intake tube. If that is what you want to do, your local computer accessories shop will likely stock these. Buy a BALL BEARING fan, as the cheaper sleeve bearing versions do not last long. If it is ball bearing, it will say so on the label.

A 40mm fan fits best, but a 60 or 80 move more air.
At 30mph / 50kmh natural airflow will do more for you than any fan, so this is strictly for cases where you leave it parked and idling a long time when it is really hot outside.
As leaving it idling like this makes a lot of heat anyway, my recommendation is:
SHUT THE CAR OFF.
If you like your coil packs, do not leave it running for a long time with the radiator fan coming on.
That is a much more serious problem, either with stock or modified RX-8's.

BTW, at idle the RX-8 consumes as much fuel as driving at 65MPH!

Originally posted by RCCAZ 1
Canzoomer,

Racedave brings up a very good point. For those of us running in very hostile summertime environments (i.e., places where outside ambient can reach 115F+ degrees), how should your box and it's components hold up. Engine bays can easily top 300F sitting in traffic, probably higher? Was any type of heat soak test done to your box to ensure operability at these kinds of operating temps? Just curious.



The design Mazda used for this involves sucking in air at the front, circulating it through a plastic shroud, and exiting again.
The intake air in this stays in the shroud duct, and never actually cools much.
The duct is plastic, which is a good insulator, so it will do little or nothing to remove heat from the ECU box.
Further, the ECU and other components do not touch the shroud ducts in the stock configuration, so the cooling this does would be minimal or none.

The main reason we did this removal of bits was to make enough room.

However, as we now allow the air to actually enter the space around the ECU, and cool it, I feel it will cool quite a bit more efectively than stock.

We provided some chunks of filter foam to insert into the duct openings to keep dust, bugs and leaves out of the ECU box.

As I do not have Arizona temperatures to test in a definitive answer on effective temps will have to wait until the summer, but I feel one would get better cooling with this mod..

Originally posted by mdw33333
CZ, just curious about where I am on the list to be shipped?
The same place as the other couple of hundred people who emailed me to ask that lately.

We are building as fast as we can, processing orders in the order they are received, and will ship n that order.

Here is a general guideline:

Orders placed in early December are now packed and out.
Mid December orders are in progress now,
The bunch we got in late December will keep us busy until the end of the month.
Ones we received in January will keep us busy until somewhere in mid-February.

I hope this helps, even though it is a bit general.

We do not charge credit cards until we process the orders, do the invoices, and prepare to ship, so charges generally happen in the 2-3 days prior to shipment.

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY INFO ABOUT PURCHASING STAGE ONE OR TWO. WHO I CAN CONTACT THANKS.
DEVIOUS121212@YAHOO.COM

Go to www.canzoomer.com and download his price sheet. In this forum, go to the Vendors/Canzoomer section and start getting yourself familiar with the product.

Canzoomer: nice update pics there.

When I get mine, I'll tell you how long it takes me to do it.

Keep up the good work and "no", your neighbors don't think your wierd for driving around the block 50 times a day to test the units.

...They just think you're obcessed with your RX-8!!!

J/K

-jcs-

to reinstall without getting in any trouble at the dealer... all I have to do is pull the wires from the CZ tuning computer and plug them back into the ecu and put the cover back on? Won't the techs realize that the ecu cooling system is removed? How anal-retentive do I have to be about restoring the ecu before I take it in for service?

Originally posted by pmacwill
Won't the techs realize that the ecu cooling system is removed? C'mon now.. just put the whole thing back together again, not that difficult, jeez..

Because you are just removing the top part, all you have to do is snap it back in place (along with the PCM mounting brackets etc).

I doubt the dealer would even look in the PCM box. They connect to it under the dash. I don't think they will see any evidence on their computer that the unit is installed.

As you can see above, it's called a PCM (Programmable Computer Module), not ECU. Got to do my "glossery of terms" posting soon.

So Maurice, does that mean everyone at this point time should get a switch with their unit who hasn't received an e-mail confirmation of shipment yet. Thanks

Originally posted by TitaniumRX8MD
So Maurice, does that mean everyone at this point time should get a switch with their unit who hasn't received an e-mail confirmation of shipment yet. Thanks

ALL units now shipping have switches.
This decision was made to allow people to take their cars in for emissions or service without removing hte device.

I have to report CanZoomer, your instructions were very easy to follow. The unit slid right in and so far so good!

I installed the the Stage 1.1 last night after sending back my Stage 1 for the upgrades. Several things are different this time around that I would like to compare with others in the same position.

First - I installed the 1.1 with the battery disconnected as stated in the instructions. The first time around with the Stage 1, I turned on the car all my radio presets were gone and the clock needed reset and so on. This time around with the Stage 1.1, everything was still intact with no flashing DSC or TCS light. So I turned the car off, disconnected the battery and flipped the 1.1 switch back and forth a couple of times ending at what i think is the 'on' position. The '-' position which is toward the back of the car. Turned the car back on after connecting the battery and the TCS light was finally on as well as the blinking DSC light which I know is a part of the reset.

The odd thing is that all other presets are still there and unchanged. Radio, Clock, HVAC etc. Also there were two lights that weren't a part of the first Stage 1. On the Stage 1.1 there are two lights; the light on the left stays lit and the one on the right blinks. Is all this normal??

I also took a few drives to see if things were kosher. The fuel map is obviously different which was what CZ was going for with the update. Though I find it more difficult to tell whether anything has chaged from the stock setup. Meaning, when the Stage 1 was installed the first time, it had a punch at 5500 and 7500 that was quite noticable. Now everything is so smooth I have a hard time feeling the additional power. Can anyone else relate to this? Thank you in advance.

PS - I do not have the 'L' reflash or any other reflash for that matter.

***posted also in the thread 'Stage 1 shipping at last'

CZ stated that 1.1 will work with previous flashes but is best tuned on "L". Have you dyno'ed to see what kind of power increase if any you have? I'm curious as more get the unit and post third party dyno results.

a bientot..

March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
In general, I recommend that you get the most recent PCM Calibration ( ECU "Flash" for those who do not know the term "Programmable Control Module") installed by your dealer

While I can say the early K flash is the most tunable, the vast # of other improvements in the later flashes more than outweigh this small difference.

If you ever had a flooding experience even one time you will understand what I mean.

I installed 1.1 last night. My radio station presets all remained, but the radio audio settings (Audiopilot, Bass, Treble...etc.) were all reset. Clock was reset as well as my trip odometers.

The install went quite well. I had a little trouble getting all of the connectors into their sockets. There is very little slack in the stock cabling so it was hard to get the connectors positioned properly.

I turned on the ignition and did the steering wheel lock-to-lock to recalibrate the DCS. The DCS light went out but the TCS light stayed on. Without turning the ignition off, I started the car and drove it for 15 minutes thinking the TCS needed some time to reset. It did not turn off. By the way, the first thing I noticed while driving was how smooth the engine felt. Up and down the entire RPM range, it felt smooth with no dips or bumps. It was great.

Back to the TCS, when I got home, I turned off the car and took the key out. I put it back in, and restarted the car. The TCS light went out and all is well. I drove the car this morning with no problem.

Maurice does a final run test on all units in his car before we ship. He has gotten tired of reprogramming his radio and resetting his DCS/TCS. So he does it without removing the batt. -ve terminal. Seems to work just fine. It appears if the EPS (power steering module) doesn't see power loss it doesn't report a fault.

As I posted in another thread, we are now shortening the on-off switch toggles before shipping. If you want to shorten yours, you just measure in 3-4 mm from the end of the toggle and use a knife to mark a line on the side of the toggle. Then you can use a bench grinder to take off the toggle end down to the line. I find it works best leaving the switch in the box, and grinding 90 deg to switch motion. Just takes a few seconds to remove that extra toggle length.

Originally posted by brothervoodoo
Can you break traction by simply mashing the gas pedal in second gear with DSC/TCS off?


Yes :D Takes a little practice to get it right but it is fun! The power slides around corners in 2nd are the best :D So controlled with the rear wheels just spinning you through the turn. Not sure if my JIC suspension is allowing this or just the CZ stage 1 or if you need both.

cz, how long does the typical install take?

Edit March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
1 hour the first time, while reading instructions and drinking beer.
10 minutes, with practice and no beer.
If a friend is peering over your shoulder and is making too many suggestions, and if you trust this friend, hand him the screwdriver, go in the house and get him a beer and stand back.
CANZOOMER takes no responsibility for screwdriver fight wounds.

A friend Is handy for holding the instructions, though..
Be prepared to hand him your keys for 15 minutes shortly into your test drive, however.
It is only fair..

Takes about 20-30 minutes and that's being careful and double checking everything.

Depends on how many time u do it lol but yah no longer then half an hour.

So what's the latest on the CZ 1 and the M flash... last I heard some guy was having mondo problems, but it seemed to get quiet after that...

First question:
Can all the current Mazda Flashes be done with the CZ unit in place, just as long as the unit is turned off?
Yes

Second question:
The software provided runs on what OS?
"Windoze" for the programming software with our CZ-PROG1 kit.
Assembly inside the box.

Thank you Canzoomer for what looks to be an awesome product!

yes i am unsure how you can take it to the delaer for service without removing and replacing it with the stock unit..

and what type of Gas Millage can you get with it

Ok guys I know Im old and half crazy but---- i bought a unit from adrian and that was cool good person to buy from but im a little confused. my unit has the switch it is the 1.1 version.I have the L flash. my question is the damn switch has a letter"O" toward the FRONT of the car and the letter "I" toward the rear of the car! I of course ran the car with the switch on toward the back(seemed stronger in the rpms lower that 7k) and then with the switch toward the front of the car (it seemed stronger OVER 5-6k than with the switch toward the rear of the car but weaker at the lower rpm's. RAZZER FRAZZER STORT FRUMB A MITTLETANBUM ETC___!! Which is which? I really can't tell! I know instructions say swith is turned on when it is toward the rear of the car but what the heck does the letter "I "stand for? The letter "O" can be "on" or "off"
help
olddragger

Originally posted by olddragger
Ok guys I know Im old and half crazy but---- i bought a unit from adrian and that was cool good person to buy from but im a little confused. my unit has the switch it is the 1.1 version.I have the L flash. my question is the damn switch has a letter"O" toward the FRONT of the car and the letter "I" toward the rear of the car! I of course ran the car with the switch on toward the back(seemed stronger in the rpms lower that 7k) and then with the switch toward the front of the car (it seemed stronger OVER 5-6k than with the switch toward the rear of the car but weaker at the lower rpm's. RAZZER FRAZZER STORT FRUMB A MITTLETANBUM ETC___!! Which is which? I really can't tell! I know instructions say swith is turned on when it is toward the rear of the car but what the heck does the letter "I "stand for? The letter "O" can be "on" or "off"
help
olddragger

Like any standard electronics and computers devices, the "I" is "In" mean in contact or ON and the "O" is "Out" mean out of contact or OFF.

:)

I reinstalled mine jsut now in the dark.. I have never noticed those two yellow lights before..

the one on the right (me facing the vehicle) is blinking.. is that normal?

The car seems to be working fine.

thanks sq88. i appreciate the support you are giving us senior citizens!
olddragger

Is the switch on the "fender side" (when unit installed)? Hidden inside? If so, it's one of the new ones. Yes, the switch is on when towards the front of the car. Opposite from the previous models. That's what happens when you let a computer design your PC boards for you! ;)

RX8 FRIEND,
no the switch is toward the "motor side". Does get confusing doesn't it! Anyway, just got the M flas as apposed to the L one. It did make a lot of differance. Much smoother now and no more mini hesitations over 6k. But back to the thread. As stated it;s a a tight (the unit) fit in the stock box. It really gets hot in Ga in the summer. For example when I open the hood and lift the hood bar it's so hot that it is really close to burning your fingers.I took the foam out as suggested but Im still a little leary about the heat. I wonder if a supplemental fan could be placed at the ait vent side of the box somehow sorta like a P.C. fan? Or do we need the bottom part of the plastic cooling sustem at all? Could that be taken out to make more room? I know its close to 150-175 degrees in there. Ideas all? Or is this a mute point as the electronics can hangle this ok. Er -gotta go just swallowed my tobacco!
olddragger

Maurice's company (Harddata) makes Linux servers/clusters for research institutions. The latest craze (well, a year or two ago latest craze) was "1U" chassis - that's the smallest rack height size possible. In those chassis Maurice uses 6-8 "little screamers" - high speed small diameter fans that are loud! I keep trying to convince him we should put one of those in the stock PCM cooler duct. It would sound cool, and probably make the PCM much cooler too. ;)

I do think it's getting rather hot in there - Maurice's was almost too hot for my fingers when I removed his last week to test the latest batch! We haven't had any problems yet with heat failure, but in my experience, if it's too hot to handle, it's too hot for the electronics. Funny part is it is just as hot or hotter without the Canzoomer unit in there (stock cooling plastic). Removing the upper plastic and foam filters should improve the cooling quite a bit. I have a thermocouple temp gauge built into a digital meter.

I'll do some temp measurements eventually, both on the PCM and the ignition coils, which seem to be heat failing even in "stock" cars. The rad. air is blowing right on them!

rx-8 friend

I concur. If its too hot to handle it needs attention. I really like the fan idea. Iv's seen some that have led ligts etc that with a little imagination would really look cool(and as you stated sound cool). Could it be controlled by a thermostat?
o the stock unit gets that hot also? Then extra room in the box shouldnt help. Sounds like 2 choices
1-power vent
2-cut the top cover to open it up(hmm dont like that idea)
Looking forward to the temp readings you get. Remember in the south the temp in the summer gets to be 101-102 at times.
thanks man
olddragger

Originally posted by olddragger
Looking forward to the temp readings you get. Remember in the south the temp in the summer gets to be 101-102 at times.


It was 98 at my house today. With the extra heat of the rotary to begin with, I would think that something would need to be done. I have been concerned about the computer being under the hood all along.

I got that concern from my 78 A36 Plymouth Fury. It had Chrysler's Lean burn spark control computer hanging off the side of the air cleaner. Problem was that on the 440 the air cleaner was so big that the computer hung right over the exhaust manifold. After replacing 2 under warranty and paying for another one, I made a 10 foot extension cable and moved it up behind the front bumper. No more problems.

If we could address this with some type of fan/cooling mod, I think it would go a long way.

Originally posted by olddragger
Sounds like 2 choices
1-power vent
2-cut the top cover to open it up(hmm dont like that idea)
Looking forward to the temp readings you get. Remember in the south the temp in the summer gets to be 101-102 at times. I don't think cutting the top cover is a good idea, as I've noticed that my CZ unit gets even hotter when I do tune/test/tune runs without the top ECU cover in place. It would also be a guaranteed warranty-voider, as even the densest Mazda service tech couldn't miss it.

But, hmmmm. Maybe a second ECU cover could be purchased and a small fan mounted in the middle of it? Have to check into (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31802) that...

I think an ECU fan (computer type) in the outside vent tube would go a long way to solving this. The outside (left as you face the engine compartement) tube is the air intake. The right one goes to the airbox. Bonus, you end up with forced induction ;) . For those not getting my joke, you don't because any extra air would just go out the air intake opening to the airbox.

Mazda's idea is that there is a slight vacuum in the airbox, so air will be pulled into the outside tube and out the inside tube - airflow. Trouble with their idea is the air was trapped in a plastic "container", whose walls have poor heat conductivity. Not the best method to cool electronics. I suppose they were worried about dust and insect buildup inside the box. So far we haven't seen that here.

Finally installed my stage 1 box ... can you believe I've been sitting on it for about a month trying to find time to install the damn thing?

Anyway, a few comments from a true novice for other novices out there. I have never installed anything in the engine bay of a car. I did change the brake pads on an old Pontiac once ... although if I remember right I did manage to lose one of the little retaining springs on that job. Anyway, my point is that this install procedure went slick. 60 minutes in and out. Some trivial observations that might help out similarly unqualified installers out there (you know who you are):

- go to Pep Boys, Canadian Tire, or similar and buy some filter foam before the job (available in thin grey sheets). You will need this for the job. You don't need much, one little sheet is plenty.
Will cost you about a buck.
- I was unable to get at the underside of the plastic clips that attach the wires to the ECU cover. I left this step until after the cover was removed.
- when taking the ECU cover off, in addition to the 3 bolts there are 2 plastic clips on the passenger side of the box. You will need a slot screwdriver to pry these open enough to remove the box.
- now with the bolts off and clips opened, carefully lift/tilt the lid as necessary to get at the plastic clips that retain the wires. After removing the front clip, I flipped the cover upside down to remove the rear clip.
- once the CZ box is plugged in it will sit at a tilt (end of unit at the wires will be raised such that it does not rest on the ECU, the front end of the CZ will rest on the ECU). This looked very odd to me, and it was tough to tell from Maurice's pics if it worked out this way for him as well, but I presume this is normal. The ECU box reinstalled nicely over top.

I guess that's it. Now to test the butt dyno.....

Some little tid bits that I picked up from installing in my car. You will have left over pieces. I believe that the instructions said to not use any of the brackets, but I actually was able to use the bracket closest to the front of the car.

I have no idea where to buy the "foam filter" that people are talking about, but I dont think it matters that much anyway. If you use the bracket, the stock ECU will not move at all, plus the piggy back is so tightly bound to the ECU, not to mention once you get all of the components into the car, getting that cover to close also tightens things up a bit.

I made the mistake of plugging all of my wires from the stock ECU into the piggy back and then the three from the piggy back into to stock ECU. Big mistake haha. The car barely started and when I revved the throttle, the rpm's should have risen, but only went up about 500 rpm and veryyy slowly. Obviously this wasnt correct, so I read the instructions again, and then was finally able to install the wires correctly.

Everything is working perfectly now, but I think i'll wait until next weekend to do some tuning and install the maps that Jason has supplied.

Thankx for everyones help along the way :)

Later...

Where does the laptop wires hook up at? I don't have a cz but just a thought.

huh? pics are gone now?

March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
"They're baaaack!"

Please complain to the board moderators, not me.
I do not run this forum/board.

I will investigate and get this fixed, today hopefully..

still nothing?!?!?!?

I've also been waiting on pics and the install instructions for a while now. Is there another way we can get the instructions?

I repaired and updated the install instructions today.

Sorry, the software that runs on this forum got "glitched".

Anyway, updated, new and improved instructions are now posted..
Go to the beginning and read.
Pages 9 to 11 contain updates.

EDITED MAY 3, 2005:

New development:

As many of you know we use a Trust e-manage board as one of the components in our devices.

We now are upgrading these to the new Gold e-manage hardware and software, upon request.

Cost is $105, and adds a lot of new tuning features, including a "closed loop mode fooler" and ability to use more input sensors.
Cost includes return shipment to USA or Canada by Fedex Air.

It also allows ignition advance tuning based on throttle position, which is a real bonus.
In my experience so far the changes vastly improve the tuning experience, and eliminate most chances of the PCM adjusting fuel trims.

Email me for details at:
sales@canzoomer.com

you guys are awesome!....i think im throwing this bad boy in tomorrow after work

I don't think cutting the top cover is a good idea, as I've noticed that my CZ unit gets even hotter when I do tune/test/tune runs without the top ECU cover in place. It would also be a guaranteed warranty-voider, as even the densest Mazda service tech couldn't miss it.

But, hmmmm. Maybe a second ECU cover could be purchased and a small fan mounted in the middle of it? Have to check into (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31802) that...

Did you ever do this mod to the cover?

Install completed tonight, I am only like...a year behind. Time to tune. :eek:

any actual dyno number increases?

up

dyno with the emanage ultimate ??

any benefits ??

Any updates on what performance improvements a 2006 Model might have. I may be wrong but I believe mazda updated some of the software for the 2006 Model to get better power, and smoother performance.

has anyone dynoed the 8 after installing the box...im interested but i want some kick if im dropping 1000 bones on it.

Unsticky this antiquated thread please

i knew thats what you had posted before i even looked:)

sure we dont want to keep it for nostalgia sake?

LOL - move the flash stuff up top :)