As we all know urathane kits are great for taking abuse, fiberglass is great for fitment and easily adjustable (sand-fill-sand-fill).
I bought my car with a urathane kit on it and it fits like $hit. Great around the nose except for right behind the headlights and the rear bulges just after the wheel well everywhere else is just fine, livable.
Does anyone know what I can do to make it fit better? Make it less flexable in some areas?
As the car will sit all winter, I have time to give this a go on my own and am looking for advise, can I use very thon flat steel bent to the right shape and 2 part epoxy to bond it to the backside of the bumpers or is there a better way? Please give me some pointers as I would rather take the time and do it myself instead of paying for it. I'm not cheap, just want the sense of self completion. And don't want to leave my car anywhere for a month to be worked on.
Thanks
Anthony

Even in Southie it's spelled urethane. ;)

That is the downside as it's difficult to make a misfit plastic bumper fit well. You could fiddle a bit with the location of the retention push-lock screws/holes.

My recent replacement genuine Mazda (rear) bumper isn't as perfect as the original either.

Yeah typing on the phone doesn't give spell check as easily as the laptop.URETHANE.

And unless your from southie, it says south of boston not South Boston. I live in Braintree.

Then, as a Bay State Leaguer, you should know better. ;) ;)

corrected copy: ..you're from Southie...

Thankfully I have a [spell checking] iPhone. :)

Yeah typing on the phone doesn't give spell check as easily as the laptop.URETHANE.

And unless your from southie, it says south of boston not South Boston. I live in Braintree.

It, the phone, has spell check. I usually don't care about spelling on the internet which is odd because I am a stickler for spelling and punctuation in texts.

Back to urEthane kit question.

You can of course use a heat gun on urethane panels (e.g. what you do as part of the fender rolling process so as not to crack the paint), but it takes great patience and care. Again, I'd first explore a bit of re-location of the retention push-lock screws/holes if it's that bad.

So heat and over flex then let it relax? Kinda thing.

Yes, that kinda thing. Proceed slowly, a little at a time, and of course don't overheat.

Going to need a paint job anyway the back needs to be sanded bown and repainted anyway where the vents are behind the wheel well were never sanded and it looks like they were cut out with a sawzall then just painted, plus it doesn't fit the wheel well all that great in the back. The body lines are perfect and smooth but I guess you would have to see it to understand what I mean. I'll take pictures tomorrow, I'm at work right now and won't get back to the garage till after dark. But that sounds like it will work well for the front.