i now have a aem cold air on my 8 it sounds good and every thing but i do worry that when it pours which it has been alot latley that it will mess something up by being sucked in and i was wondering which is better a short ram or a full cold air for both power and reliability i have seen a few of you guys out their who have some sick short rams out their and i also no that short rams are louder so pleas and thank you.

Stick with the AEM and don't worry about rain.
Just don't drive through a deep puddle that would submerge the filter.

i try not too but it has been raining soo feirce latley

We get some good storms here in Ohio too.
I never had a problem with rain and the AEM intake.

yea i love it , it sounds so beastly but might just switch to a short ram only time will tell

I switched to the Racing Beat and sold my AEM to a local.
If I could go back, I probably would have stayed with the AEM.

A short ram is not a COLD AIR INTAKE. It will pull in hot air from the engine bay. Not a good thing. Stick with the AEM it's the best one out there. AEM makes a sock that goes over the filter that's suppose to keep water out. And large debris. You should not have any issue unless your in a foot and a half of water.

yea i have the sock that came with it on it since i installed it

AEM makes a sock that goes over the filter that's suppose to keep water out. And large debris.

Suppose is the keyword there.
When I was cleaning the filter I "experimented" with the sock.
I sprayed a light stream of water onto the sock with a shower head.
It helps a little bit, but water will still get through.

what about those bypass vaulves i dont have one but i also hear they decrease the sound of the intake and the suction rate of the air also

dont worry about water.. I have mazdaspeed and Florida gets nasty rain storms, I drive in them daily in afternoons on highway going to work. Dont worry about getting it wet.

I just ASSUME after it stops raining, dont drive the car like you stole it. Keep the revs down and water wont get into the engine.

Keep the revs down and water wont get into the engine.

FYI... getting water in the engine isn't the problem, its getting water on the MAF.

well yeah.. thats what i ment. Thanks for the fix!

FYI... getting water in the engine isn't the problem, its getting water on the MAF.

amen to that .
I'm really surprised the AEM does not have this problem . My filter is in a similar position and I had issues when it rained (before I did some mods). Maybe that sock thingy does the trick ?

yeah i believe the sock thing is what does the trick i have an aem and have had no trouble with water but i dont have the sock on yet (dont have one looking for one) so i havent driven it in crazy heavy rain just to be safe

I found when I was driving it was fine . Just when the car was parked in the rain for a while I had a problem . Water falls down from between the bonnet and the bumper ....

Everyone I know who has the MS/AEM get there filters soaked and it has not rained here for months. Even in the cars wash they get wet. Not worth the risk IMO.

Getting your filter wet doesn't pose any risk to the vehicle. You cannot hydrolock the rotary engine so even if you drove the motor through a lake you could start the motor provided everything else worked.

I digress...

I have gotten my filter pretty soaked a few times when it's rained really hard in Phoenix. What ends up happening is water is detected by the MAF as air and it causes the grams/sec readout to shoot through the roof.

With a wet filter I could see 350+ grams/sec on the MAF which for an N/A RX8 is physically impossible. What ends up happening is the PCM tries to add fuel to account for the air and it ends up running stupid rich and causing incomplete combustion.

This doesn't actually happen until I drive above 6,000 RPMs so even if your filter is wet just take it easy in the rain and you won't have any problems. Maybe take the whopping 5 minutes to remove your MAF and clean it.

No risk running the AEM.

Getting your filter wet doesn't pose any risk to the vehicle. You cannot hydrolock the rotary engine so even if you drove the motor through a lake you could start the motor provided everything else worked.

I digress...

I have gotten my filter pretty soaked a few times when it's rained really hard in Phoenix. What ends up happening is water is detected by the MAF as air and it causes the grams/sec readout to shoot through the roof.

With a wet filter I could see 350+ grams/sec on the MAF which for an N/A RX8 is physically impossible. What ends up happening is the PCM tries to add fuel to account for the air and it ends up running stupid rich and causing incomplete combustion.

This doesn't actually happen until I drive above 6,000 RPMs so even if your filter is wet just take it easy in the rain and you won't have any problems. Maybe take the whopping 5 minutes to remove your MAF and clean it.

No risk running the AEM.

Under boost I thought I noticed the exact opposite IE ran lean - which is very bad . I'm not 100% sure what I saw now that you say that ......

Under boost I thought I noticed the exact opposite IE ran lean - which is very bad . I'm not 100% sure what I saw now that you say that ......

Wow, I can't say I've ever seen that happen. In my case it's always gone rich and even thrown a CEL for the MAF being out of range.

I did look at my wide band and saw it was running one or the other . Can't remember . Enough to cause violent misfires - not good .

Had racingbeat intake and duct for 2.5 years and loved it! Now I have AEM and I still love it! Can't go wrong with either one, but AEM would be better if you plan on going greddy turbo in the future.

yea i do plan on turboing it thanks for all the intell

I'm not trying to be an ass but your question makes me think you should do a little research on engine performance. You can not upgrade one part and get any kind of good results. If you get an intake you will get a wooop sound and worse gas millage. Engines are made to work with the parts they have. You can upgrade everything or nothing IMHO. If you want a real noticeable upgrade that will maybe even lower your 1/4 time by a whole second (not that I like drag racing its just a good point of reference) get really really good tires. Otherwise save your damn money for that FI and do it right.... like me =)

just remember colder air is denser air which makes more power...so AEM/MS is the best beccause they are true "cold air intakes".....

Cold air intakes will not make a major performance gain on this car naturally aspirated because the stock airbox is a "cold air" intake pulling air from outside the hot engine bay. Going to a short ram intake will cause you to have worse intake flow than the stock airbox (ie bad). The AEM/MS intake is fine, but don't expect major gains. On the filter getting wet, I have also always seen huge increase in g/sec and tons of extra fuel over 6000 rpms. Letting it dry off or driving conservatively until it does dry is sufficient to avoid any problems. The amount of water I've had to get on the AEM cover to see even those problems is pretty significant as well. The main people that should consider getting the AEM/MS intake are those people using the Cobb AccessPORT for FI applications as the sizing of the intake pipe matches the stock dimensions while clearing all the space from the factory airbox. For anybody else the intake is basically just bling and a bit of noise.

quite a bit of noise a good noise too

intake = waste of money on this car! I know, I have one!

yea i have been reading up and am eventually getting the cobb for it and plan on turbo charging it also but for now i think i will be investing in a bypass valve the only reason i asked this dumb question in the first place is because im worried about the intake sucking in water and messing up the motor. thank you for all the intell tho and i agree all it does is make the car louder lol but sounds nice not like a honda haha

Ya the intakes seem to do about as much as the exhaust for this car on NA setups.... make noise haha

A good one that is!

so about those bypass valves/>?