this products presentation was top notch, its nothing short of beautiful. it comes with detailed instructions, beefy yukon coils, custom msd wires, and spacers

I would not say my stock coils where bad. just stock. anyways upon removing them I noticed that two coils had no markings on the bottom, while the other two did have some white marks, this only indicated to me that two where newer then the others.

installation was pretty straight forward. I had it all installed within about an hour or two. the ground wire location was not very clear. I did find a ground strap thing by the brake booster but on the inner fenderwell, it was bar metal with two black wires coming from it. it seemed like a good spot.

I took the car for a drive outside temp was about 60ish and it seemed like normal, took it on the freeway and it freely revd to 8500 rpms.

so before BHR coils the car would accelerate, and then pull at 5500rpms. now with the coils installed it seems to pull before that and now pull a little harder at 5500rpms.

I am all stock except for the new coils, and 4-5oz premix per fillup.

the extra 5500 kick is from the vfad opening

good to hear man.

Congrats on the coils. When FI they rock even more. Get rid of the VFAD and rev happy.

I thought about it but the diy just says to unplug a vacuum line and it will stay open, but they don't say which vacumm line, and if it needs to be cap off, he also said the engine needs to be running right before you do it too?

I thought about it but the diy just says to unplug a vacuum line and it will stay open
Correct... because you are removing the vacuum source that closes the valve.

but they don't say which vacumm line
The line right behind the throttle body on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold (the nipple is pointing down).

and if it needs to be cap off
Yes it does

he also said the engine needs to be running right before you do it too?
That isn't true.
You'll need to run the car after you pull the vacuum line before the valve will stay open.
This is because the solenoid is preventing the remaining vacuum from escaping.
Once you drive above 5500rpm, the valve will open and never close because the vacuum (produced by the intake) has been removed.

I love my coils, can't wait to dyno her.

Thanks for the great review! Glad to hear you are enjoying your upgraded coils!

So how do we diagnose whether we have bad coils or not? Or does the OEM coils just plain suck?

Well when i found i had bad coils i would Turn over but not start. So i took it to a dealer because i couldnt self diagnose anything but i had a misfire in my first rotor housing

usually a blinking CEL at high rpms is a good sign the coils are bad!......

from my research on the boards it seems that the stock coils overall suck

at first they work, but then as time goes by there overall spark output diminishes. they still "work" but not like new. so gauging by performance sucks cause your like the frog in water that comes to a gradual boil. you don't really notice a difference until they fail like indicated above, or your thrown right into boiling water, shuddering at high RPMS with a flashing CEL

fazda. proof.

from my research on the boards it seems that these coils overall suck

I am pretty sure by the word "these", that you mean the OEM coils suck, correct?

I am pretty sure by the word "these", that you mean the OEM coils suck, correct?

I hope so, otherwise I want my money back, LOL! :lol2:

yes the stock ones suck edited my post!!! :)

We knew that and we were just having a little fun with ya. ;)

fazda. proof.

of what?

thanks Charles :)

I need to get this kit to bump up my powerloss :)