So last night, I get home, and as I'm going to get out of the car, I realize my door won't open... So I try to unlock it... still wont...It will not unlock under any circumstance. If you use the manual switch, the actuator instantly locks it back. I even tried to muscle it, and it didn't work. No matter if I held it and tried the inside handle, or the outside, no change. Any help would be great... Thanks guys!!

Remove you neg battery cable and reset to system. This may work for you . good luck with that.

If you were not able to unlock the doors, how did you get out of the car?

^crawled out the window?

try resetting the computer(disconnect the battery) like said above it might work....also make sure that a button on ur remote unlock/lock pod is not stuck/jammed

If you were not able to unlock the doors, how did you get out of the car?

he is reporting this from inside his car :hahano:

^haha and he doesn't even have his location posted so somebody nearby can go save him.....

see that's why u need to post your location so somebody can save ur ass incase of an emergency lock in!!!

Sorry guys... I didn't have a chance to update all weekend... but yeah, I had to climb out of the passenger door. What a pain that was...

Thanks for all the "help", I ended up pulling the door apart and getting it open, but somehow the lock is stuck or broken... so I unhooked the manual lock and unplugged the actuator... Just so it doesn't happen again. I guess I'll have to get a replacement...

Noone has ever had this happen? It was totally random...

I don't think I've heard of it ever

Sorry guys... I didn't have a chance to update all weekend... but yeah, I had to climb out of the passenger door. What a pain that was...

Thanks for all the "help", I ended up pulling the door apart and getting it open, but somehow the lock is stuck or broken... so I unhooked the manual lock and unplugged the actuator... Just so it doesn't happen again. I guess I'll have to get a replacement...

Noone has ever had this happen? It was totally random...

Sounds like you have a problem with the latch mechanism.

Whats up bro.. Just brought my car to the auto body shop a hour ago for a visit to get the SAME problem fixed! Only thing different is that all my locks worked and actuator.. however the handles seem like they are still locked. I have been crawling out my passenger side for three days. How did you get the interior panel off with the door closed???? Any suggestions would be awesome just in case the auto body guy can't fix it....

i have the same problem, how did you take off the door panel witht he door closed?

help me out?

Hey guys. I popped the handle surround off and had to pull on the cable with pliers while pressing up on the unlock button. When you get it resolved would you PLEASE let me know what you did?

I'm still dealing with it. I took the panel off after I got it opened, and unlocked the door and disconnected the lock cable so my wife couldnnt accidentally lock it.

But I also had to unplug the actuator's connector or it would lock if you accidentally hit the button and then you'd be screwed again.

That worked for a week or so, but then the security system started acting up and would set the alarm and a no-start condition....

In short. I hate this car, and I'm trading it in ASAP.

You got a lemon.

DAMN my car still works and I love my car ... :)

I DID get a lemon... I wish it would catch fire and burn to the ground...

Hmmmm.... LOL

I had this happen to me with my Civic, except I was on the outside and needed to get on the inside. It actually has happened three times. The first two times I got in by repeatedly mashing the unluck button on the key and pulling the handle until I somehow caught the perfect millisecond between the actuator locking and unlocking. The third time I ended up climbing in through the trunk. Yeah, that was graceful. Not sure what I'd do if it happened with the 8. Anyone ever try squeezing through the trunk passthrough?

I had this happen to me with my Civic, except I was on the outside and needed to get on the inside. It actually has happened three times. The first two times I got in by repeatedly mashing the unluck button on the key and pulling the handle until I somehow caught the perfect millisecond between the actuator locking and unlocking. The third time I ended up climbing in through the trunk. Yeah, that was graceful. Not sure what I'd do if it happened with the 8. Anyone ever try squeezing through the trunk passthrough?
Ask my wife!! :yelrotflmShe didn't enjoy that one!

Sorry for lmao:lol2::lol2:. This thread is sort of funny because I have locked myself outside of the car somehow but never inside. You might want to go to the mazda stealership and have them check it out but of course, like always, there will probably be a fee lol.

Anyone ever find a fix for this? Gotta bring my car to the body shop soon and I'd like to give them somewhere to start...

Next time, drop kick the door. Much more gratifying.

Just happened to me last night for the first time. My car is 6 years old. From outside the car, I put my key into the driver side keyhole and tab on the inside appears to move to the "unlock" position but door won't open. I have to climb in/out through passenger side.

I'll try to pop the plastic covering surrounding the inside latch lever and see if I can get the mechanism to open.

My question is, if it's a "stuck" mechanical issue, if I play with the mechanism or oil it, can it become "unstuck"? Can I avoid having to buy a whole new mechanism? Does someone have a DIY for this?

Thanks in advance.

I got the little plastic surround around the metal latch lever off. The opening is small but I can see 2 thin metal wires back there. I used a pair of needle-nosed pliers to tug at each of the wires separately but neither works.

Which wire did you guys pull, the top or the bottom one? How did you guys get the door open?

So last night, I get home, and as I'm going to get out of the car, I realize my door won't open... So I try to unlock it... still wont...It will not unlock under any circumstance. If you use the manual switch, the actuator instantly locks it back. I even tried to muscle it, and it didn't work. No matter if I held it and tried the inside handle, or the outside, no change. Any help would be great... Thanks guys!!

The Jaws Of Life are your friend....they should be able to get the door open...and NOOBBBBB disconnect the batter and then manuallly open the lock and open the door...

Not sure if that will work. All these problems are caused by a defective latch. The only solution is to cut the door open or air chisle the lock. If any of you have a better solution that has worked then let me know!

Not sure if that will work. All these problems are caused by a defective latch. The only solution is to cut the door open or air chisle the lock. If any of you have a better solution that has worked then let me know!


If anybody needs to know how to do this, I did it today! CALL ME! (912)610-0645 or email me at cdy876@yahoo.com I can walk you through it, or do it for you, if you're within about a 3 hour drive from me. 31313.

I emailed you! I bet if you were willing to do a short how-to that outlined the basics of it, you could get a sticky...

wow i thought only blonds got locked inside a car lol, but you had a reason though lol mechanical malfunction

I have the same problem, locked driver door. I have taken the inside trim off, and when I unlock it, i hear a noise, and the handle cable moves when i pull the handle, but it is still locked. I can grab the rod that extends to the outside handle and it moves when the handle is opened. Both the wire and rod extend in to a plastic box. Thats all I can see.

When all else fails, drop kick it













































Sorry, that wasn't very helpful was it? Hopefully someone who has experience in this area chimes in...

I have the same problem, locked driver door. I have taken the inside trim off, and when I unlock it, i hear a noise, and the handle cable moves when i pull the handle, but it is still locked. I can grab the rod that extends to the outside handle and it moves when the handle is opened. Both the wire and rod extend in to a plastic box. Thats all I can see.

You mean you removed only the plastic piece surrounding the aluminum lever and you can see all that? I can barely see anything except the 2 wires.

Have you taken the door panel off? I am going to attempt to do that. Someone told me it can be done even if the door is shut but might have to take driver's seat out to have enough space.

You mean you removed only the plastic piece surrounding the aluminum lever and you can see all that? I can barely see anything except the 2 wires.

Have you taken the door panel off? I am going to attempt to do that. Someone told me it can be done even if the door is shut but might have to take driver's seat out to have enough space.

I took the door panel off. After you remove the plastic piece surrounding the aluminum lever, then you can take the switch panel off, you pry from the bottom. Then there are two screws, one on the right side and one on the left side of the "pocket." After those two screws, I pulled the panel up and out and it popped off. I had to pull pretty dang hard though. The tweeter box came off as well. I was able to pass the switch panel through the switch panel opening to completely remove the panel. Now there is a part with about a dozen screws holding it in place. The window motor is mounted to it. I was able to remove most of the things attaching it and pull it back to see the rods and wires and stuff. I'm going to go take pics and post them.

have you tried hugging the car in a push like fashion? then pulling?

I took the door panel off. After you remove the plastic piece surrounding the aluminum lever, then you can take the switch panel off, you pry from the bottom. Then there are two screws, one on the right side and one on the left side of the "pocket." After those two screws, I pulled the panel up and out and it popped off. I had to pull pretty dang hard though. The tweeter box came off as well. I was able to pass the switch panel through the switch panel opening to completely remove the panel. Now there is a part with about a dozen screws holding it in place. The window motor is mounted to it. I was able to remove most of the things attaching it and pull it back to see the rods and wires and stuff. I'm going to go take pics and post them.

Yes, please post pics. I'd really appreciate it.

A person who knows cars in general said there might be a plastic piece that connects to the aluminum wire at the end where the lock mechanism is back by the rear door. He said that plastic connector may have broken. Do you observe anything like that?

In the last pic, you can see the rod that comes from the outside handle.

This has happened in the old RX-7's, in fact just happened to a buddy of mines 85 lol. Was a pain in the ass to get the door open.

Whew!!! Hooray!! My door is unlocked! The second rod closest to the rear controls the locking. I grabbed it and pulled down and the door unlocked. Now to put everything back and never lock this car.

Whew!!! Hooray!! My door is unlocked! The second rod closest to the rear controls the locking. I grabbed it and pulled down and the door unlocked. Now to put everything back and never lock this car.

Awesome. Thanks to you, the rest of us know it can be done. I'll probably work on my door later this week after I finish my taxes.


BTW, was your lock mechanism just temporarily jammed or did a connector or something break that you have to replace?

I had to pull my door panel, and the inner panel off, then cut the latch "box" open, and lift up on something... I can't remember now... But it was a major pain in the ass...

I had to pull my door panel, and the inner panel off, then cut the latch "box" open, and lift up on something... I can't remember now... But it was a major pain in the ass...

But after you finally got it open, did the door jam again? Did you end up having to replace anything?

I just got my PASSENGER SIDE door panel off to use as a guide to get my driver side panel off later.

Each step is a bitch, except for the black plastic cup around the aluminum door latch. The screw in the door pocket was really tough. I used a fairly long phillips screw driver but it was always slipping, but I stuck with it and finally got it out. Are you guys using a power screwdriver? I can't get my power screwdriver to fit in there.

The black piano plastic panel with the window controls is difficult as well. You just have to try it for the first time, I guess, to get a feel.

Two of the nine door panel connectors broke a little, but at this point I couldn't care less. Is there a door panel tool that can prevent those things from breaking?

Using the passenger side panel as a guide, I'm convinced you can get the driver side panel off even when you can't open the driver side door. Because, with the door closed, there seems to be enough space to get your fingers into the crevice down back by the courtesy light to begin pulling the door panel out. Regardless, Red RX8 Red Int was able to do it, so we all know it can be done.

Right now, I'm trying to take that door pocket screw out on the driver side, and I'm having trouble. Real pain, especially since I can't get leverage and I can't get my body down under the steering wheel. I need a power screwdriver or something. Taking a rest now, I'll get back to this a later day.

BTW, good pics are available in the following:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=21613&highlight=door+panel+removal

http://rx8.becomeanidiot.com/puddlelights.pdf

I had the same problem two weeks ago and just now figured out what the problem is when I finally opened the door this after noon. Mushkid, guided me and told me to cut open the black plastic covering the lock where the door latch rod leads to. There's a white piece and a small black piece of plastic aligned with each other. You need to push both down together to open the door. The problem with mine was the re-tractor spring for the lock-opener broke. View the pictures below and hope you have a better understanding of how I opened mine.

Opened the rear door to have a better view and some space to work on.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs016.snc4/34150_1146958210773_1732089955_268553_1215835_n.jp g

You need to remove the window to reach the area where those cable ends.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs132.snc4/36945_1146960570832_1732089955_268555_4269642_n.jp g

Cut open the black plastic cover and expose the door-lock opener rod as far as you could. Push down the white plastic and the little black plastic below altogether.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs075.snc4/35129_1154778366272_1732089955_285453_1262969_n.jp g

After opening the door and removing the driver side door lock/actuator, I found that the cause of the problem is a broken re-tractor spring.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs019.snc4/34318_1154775806208_1732089955_285443_1913435_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs042.snc4/34456_1154786606478_1732089955_285459_7556315_n.jp g

Grace_Excel, can you tell me what kind of tool you used to cut the holes and what kind of drill bits/heads?

It looks like you made two cuts- (1) a circular cut in the first black plastic panel (the one just behind the door panel) and then (2) a vertical cut downward in the black plastic by the door lock opener. Is that correct?

another 8 owner with a broken re-tractor spring??

wow that is simply amazing.

after you manage to get the spring, i highly recommend you go to a hardware shop and you find a heavy duty spring. that's what i did so i don't have to deal with this headache again.

sorry for the mishap ^^ Grace_Excel; dude these are awesome pics it should help other members with this same prob. good job!!!

Thank you mushkid! ArXate, find yourself a heavy-duty box cutter. That's what I used to make the only (vertical) cut on that plastic. It's really soft, so carefully cut it, the blade might snap and lacerate yourself. 9krpmrx8 and sisco360 pm'd me for asssistance as they came across and were STUCK with the same problem.

Grace_ Excel, thanks for your private message with the pics and links. Now I see that you didn't actually cut a circular hole in the first black panel.

One thing I'm wondering is were you able to completely remove the driver side door panel BEFORE you opened the door? It seems in the private message, you imply that you did. If you actually did, how did you do it? The front and rear doors are locked together, but I pulled the rear door latch (the big black plastic latch on the inside of the car) and was able to push the 2 doors outward- but just a little. It seemed like I can't push the doors out far enough to get the front part of the door panel completely out (the part by the dashboard).

On the other hand, maybe you just meant that you were able to pull the back end of the door panel outward (without completely removing the door panel). That's actually what i did.

No, I wasn't able to pull the door panel completely out. I forced it but not it was enough to completely remove the panel. I broke a few of those plastic tabs in the. Like you, the panel is stuck where it meets the dashboard and I could only open the front and rear doors by opening the rear door.

Since the shell is aluminum, you could lightly push it out more and give the door a little flex to allow yourself some extra room. ... maybe you just meant that you were able to pull the back end of the door panel outward (without completely removing the door panel). That's actually what i did.
Once you have removed the glass window, you'll be able to access the black plastic box that the outside door latch's 'rod' is connected.

Try to take pictures of your progress.

Do I absolutely have to remove the black plastic piece housing the tweeter (in the corner of the A pillar) in order to remove the window?

Do I absolutely have to remove the black plastic piece housing the tweeter (in the corner of the A pillar) in order to remove the window?

You don't have to remove it's , but it might cause obstruction once you attempt to remove the door panel. Here are the pieces that I had removed: the tweeter box, inner handle cover, switch panel, door panel (trim), and the door glass. The rest stayed until I've completely opened the door.

I didn't have much time yesterday (Wed) to work on it but I could tell that the black plastic tweeter housing doesn't really get in the way of the window glass but rather is in the way of the door panel. I was able to pull the door panel out partially without removing that piece, so I'll just leave it in.

My final question before I get to work on it a little later today is: Do you absolutely have to remove the window glass? It seems the window doesn't get in the way if it's all the way up. Am I right or wrong about this?

You won't be able to access the plastic box with the window raised up, you'd have a hard time reaching it. Besides, your only view to the box is through the sill with the glass window removed.

Ok, I opened my fucking door finally! Thanks a ton, Excel_Grace.

I removed the window glass and used a normal box cutter to cut open the black plastic casing, then used my hands to play with the mechanism until the door opened. The ordeal is finally over...almost.

BUT now, what am I supposed to replace? I can't even see the spring or whatever else is inside there. Even if it's just the spring, how would I take it out and put a new spring in? It seems like you have to take the entire apparatus out first, but how would you do that?

There are three screws where the machanism meets the striker. Before you remove those, unplug the wires that connects to the actuator and remove the rods that connects to the outside door handle. You do not need to remove the handle, only the rod. Once you've removed the machanism out from the door, you could easily take out and open the plastic box by removing the only two screws that secures it.
Front Door Latch and Lock Actuator Removal/Installation (http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/esicont/en/srvc/html/BHE091458490W02.html)

You'll see the broken spring as soon as you open it. Home Depot should have the similar length and size spring with hooks on each ends. Here's a picture that 9krpmrx8 took yesterday.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/5144644781_bb6f91374c.jpg

my 05 has the rear drivers stuck on lower hinge. car got a little body damage on those two doors, so I used a set of tin snips last night and cut the outter panel to try to access it, still cant. I can access the shifting mech, but it wont release.

How do you access the two nuts on the bottom of door latch on rocker panel.

If I can get them loose, I can take the door off, as I already took off all 4 bolts for the hinges, the lower strap one, and the wiring. All in an attempt to get this latch undone, since there is some damage was going to swap the rear door anyways.

Thanx craig

There's a thread for that... Not much discussion, but here it is: Rear Door Won't Open (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=203731&highlight=rear+door+won%27t+open)

I was able to remove the lock actuator assembly earlier today (Sat), then spent the rest of the day going from Home Depot to Walmart to Lowe's to Orchard's Hardware but couldn't find a similar size spring.

Since the original spring broke at one of the ends such that most of the original length remained, I used two needle-nosed pliers to fashion a new hook at the broken end and then installed it. The spring works perfectly!

LOL, pulled a MacGyver!

I just had to go through this whole fiasco. Same issue, broken spring inside the actuator. I was able to get the trim panel completely out before getting the door open, but it was a PITA.

I also had to cut the actuator housing a little further in to get the actuator to trip. Spent quite a bit of time trying then reading threads, then trying again before deciding to cut it open as far as I needed to.

Thanks for all the info and pics in this thread, really helps out alot.

Glad you were able to navigate and found this thread and helped you with the problem.

god bless these threads. i was able to fix my door and enjoy my day off thanks guys..

Thank you, good sir', for using the search option instead of starting another thread..

This thread is GOLDEN! Thanks a lot guys!!!

Important points:

-You have to open the rear door to get enough room to remove the panel (very tight and frustrating...)

-When removing the window watch out for the power window mechanism.

-Once I cut open the black plastic box I wasn't able to unlock the door. I had to insert the key in the lock, turn it so the unlock rod goes down and push the white/black levers UPWARD (quite the opposite of you guys) and pop the door is unlocked!!!

-As it was getting late I decided to pull a McGyver like ArXate and re-use the broken spring, works like a charm!

K;4030659']This thread is GOLDEN! Thanks a lot guys!!!

Important points:

-You have to open the rear door to get enough room to remove the panel (very tight and frustrating...)

Thanks for pointing that out, I also reused the broken spring by bending another loop to hook on the ring in the lock.

happened to me as well, except it took me half a year to get it fixed since i was bombarded with school and work.
never had free time and when i did, i just didnt feel like fixing it.
anyways, after crawling out of the passenger door for 6 months a friend helped me out and replaced (not sure) some part and it was good to go.

^ You did that for 6 months? :lol:

Hello all,

Just had this problem with my car last week. I finally got to the actuator and did see the broken spring. Would someone please tell me or show me how the spring is suppose to be attached? Thanks in advanced and hope to hear from you guys soon.

Mark

I completely forgot about your PM over the weekend. Are you still trying to figure out where the end of the spring connects?

I managed to fix the problem... but now cannot open the door from the inside lol! I'm planning on taking it apart again after summer classes when I have more time. But thank you for the help.

May be I should just do a D.I.Y...

i just went thru this; thank goodness for this thread. took me most of the afternoon to get my door open, and i almost gave up. i was able to pull off the door panel completely w/ the door shut, and didn't have to remove the window. it was such an AWFUL project. and the culprit was indeed the broken spring. my hand is all scuffed up and i'm in a lot of pain. now i need to clean out the plastic debris in the latch mechanism from cutting open the plastic box, regrease up everything, and replace the freakin' spring. what kind of grease should i use, just anything from the autostore? there must be a batch of these defective latches w/ this defective spring from mazda's supplier. how much is the whole latch? i wonder if i should just replace them on both doors just so i won't have to go thru this again. it was really a hugh pita...

I think, any lube/grease that has the Vaseline-type texture vice WD40-type. I know it's an all-aftenoon's-work, so just do the passenger's in one of the day's that the car's not acting up and you want to tinker only for the heck of it.

Yup... definitely the biggest pain in the ass you could imagine. I ended up with ten stitches in my hand trying to fix the f'er.

I ended up with ten stitches in my hand trying to fix the f'er.

Yowza! I ended up with many cuts on my hands (include a burn from the courtesy light bulb) and arms.

BTW, the proper length of the spring appears to be 1-1/8", which is not very easy to find. I went to one hardware store last night, and the closest I found was 1-3/16", which believe it or not leaves enough slack to make me not feel good. Grainger (an industrial supply store) appears to have 1-1/8" extension springs in all kinds of strengths, so I'll check them out. I'm scared to reuse the broken spring. I hate that spring. I'm feeling pretty anal about getting a good, right spring in there 'cuz I really don't want to have to go thru this experience again...

I just took the old spring and created a new reinforced loop and greased it up. Probably should have just replaced it. But on the bright side it will be easy to fix again now that the black box it off.

Yep, that's true... If it breaks again, I may not have to remove the window knowing which rod to move in that black box.

I'm having visitation in Kansas 600 miles away from home. Took my 5 year old daughter to the restroom and come back and it wouldn't unlock. My wife and I are this far from home with no help, and was thinking it wouldn't unlOck at all and realized the pass door unlocked and crawled in. Well needless to say it wouldn't open. Gonna try to fix when I get back to my moms in Missouri.

How do u pop all the Panel clips out? I got one but can't get the rest.

Thanks fOr everyone's help of making this DIY!! Saved me a lot of time and money. Another spring counted. Temporarily used old spring. Going to replace with a better quality spring when I get home!!

Thanks everyone for this DIY!! Saved me a lot of time and money. Temporarily used old spring but going to replace with higher quality one as soon as I get home!!! Thanks again!!