The TR-01 is a digital hand-held rotary engine compression tester available as a more affordable option compared to similar testers already on the market. It utilizes a powerful micro-controller and a 0-200psi pressure transducer to detect the three distinct compression pulses of a rotary engine. These pulses, along with RPM, are then displayed on the back-lit LCD.

http://www.twistedrotors.com/images/tr01_blue.JPG

Group Buy price is set at $230 for each unit. You have a choice of either a blue or green LCD, please specify which color you'd like when you order. From testing I can say that the green LCD is easier to see in daylight, but the blue just looks slick! I need at least 10 orders to get this started.
Shipping will be via USPS Priority Flat-Rate mail and includes insurance. Unit price includes shipping to U.S. Addresses. Additional shipping required for non-U.S. Addresses is $37 ($21 to Canada).

Payments via Paypal: TR01@TwistedRotors.com (that is TR<zero>1)
Ensure that your shipping address in Paypal is correct and please include your forum name with the payment.
This Group Buy price will be good for 2 months, so get them while they're cheap!

As an incentive, during this GB I am offering an optional splash screen personalization for each unit. Upon power up, your unit will display the standard TR-01 splash screen with firmware version.

http://www.twistedrotors.com/images/tr01_splash.JPG

Then a personalized screen with your name will be displayed.

http://www.twistedrotors.com/images/tr01_name.JPG

Original thread http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=165870
Testing a “blown” 13B-REW http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZG28b05H9k
Testing HeavyMetal699's RX-8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IjZH2Xongw

Technical Data:
Display: 16x2 LCD, back-lit (blue or green)
Maximum pressure reading: 200psi
Minimum pressure reading: 10psi
Measurement accuracy: <1% FS
Measurement time: <1.0 msec
Power source: 9 volt battery

Dead volume has been calculated and the correction factors are listed below. I decided not to code in an automatic correction as the number varies slightly depending on the engine type. For reference the internal volume of the sensor (with adapter) is 2.85cc. To correct for the sensor dead volume just multiply your readings by the correction number appropriate for your engine.
Engine Year Ratio Correction
12A 76-82 9.4 1.042
12A 83-85 9.4 1.042
13B 74-78 9.2 1.035
13B 84-85 9.4 1.036
13B N/T 86-88 9.4 1.036
13B T 86-88 8.5 1.032
13B N/T 89-92 9.7 1.038
13B T 89-92 9.0 1.034
13B T/T 93-95 9.0 1.034
13B Ren 04-on 10.0 1.039

Warranty:
The tester is covered for a period of 2 years from date of purchase. I will repair/replace any units that fail due to any defect in my manufacturing. Basically if it isn't broken due to abuse or misuse then I will fix it. Note that this does not include the sensor which will have to be on a case-by-case basis. These pressure transducers are heavy duty units designed for industrial applications so failure is highly unlikely. In the event that a sensor does fail I will work with the customer to get a replacement from the sensor manufacturer. With all that said, if you were to accidently damage your tester then let me know. I can work with you to get your unit repaired, I plan to keep repair parts/spare units for at least 5 years. I want everyone to be happy with their TR-01!



1. Texak - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "Property of ; Texak" - Payment Received, thanks!
2. Gvang - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "H.T.T.S. ; N. Theodosiou" - Payment Received, thanks!
3. Gvang - RX8Club - Blue LCD, " EasyTuning, RX8 Specialists" - Payment Received, thanks!
4. Swoope - RX8Club - Green LCD, "Swoope says ; Please be good!" - Payment Received, thanks!
5. Ash8 - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "Disconnect Crank ; Sensor FIRST" - Payment Pending
6. Phil's8 - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "Property of ; Phil's 8" - Payment Received, thanks!
7. RXnos1200 -RX7Club - Blue LCD, "Property of ; RXnos - JJN" - Payment Received, thanks!
8. CarbonRX8 - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "Property of ; CarbonRX8" - Payment Received, thanks!
9. atl8 - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "Property of ; pcoppinger" - Payment Received, thanks!
10. moRotorMotor - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "Property of ; Leo Tam" - Payment Received, thanks!
11. neit_jnf -RX8Club - Green LCD, "Property of ; Neit J. Nieves" - Payment Received, thanks!
12. Roderick Scotto - Green LCD, "Property of ; Scotto Tuning" - Payment Received, thanks!
13. Oldskul - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "Property of ; ProTuner" - Payment Received, thanks!
14. WankelBolt - RX8Club - Green LCD, "www.SpecRX7.com ; Unhook Ignition!" - Payment Received, thanks!
15. Czar - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "Property of ; Czar" - Payment Received, thanks!
16. NewbernD - RX8Club - Blue LCD, "Property of ; Dave Newbern" - Payment Received, thanks!

Updated: April 24 2009, 10:05 am

You made it! w00t w00t:rock:

Good stuff.

Put me down for a blue lcd one! when can I send the money?

Accepting payments at this time. Make a note that you'd like a blue LCD in Paypal and what name you'd like on your personal splash screen. Thanks!
-John

some1 in jax needs to buy one.

I'm getting mine Thursday

Paypal sent!!! When will you be shipping them out?

Paypal sent!!! When will you be shipping them out?

Received! As soon as I have 10 payed for then I can order all the components and start putting the units together. I have already ordered the custom PCB's out of pocket as I figured those could have caused a delay. The components are coming from multiple sources, some with faster shipping than others. I hope to begin shipping 2-3 weeks after receiving the 10th payment. I wish I could give a more definite date but if anything changes I will notify everyone immediately.
-John

Damn.. might change my delivery location then. i leave town in 2 weeks. I was hoping to test the compression before i left so I could leave the car with the dealership. Nothing you can do about that though.

Damn.. might change my delivery location then. i leave town in 2 weeks. I was hoping to test the compression before i left so I could leave the car with the dealership. Nothing you can do about that though.

Sorry about that, you can email your new address to TR01@twistedrotors.com whenever you want.
-John

Could I get one that said "Are you feeling lucky?" instead of property of?

Could I get one that said "Are you feeling lucky?" instead of property of?

I can do that. As long as it's kept "professional" I don't mind putting it on the unit. I may be opening a can of worms with this, but I really wanted the GB testers to be special since you guys are going to be the ones that get this going for me.
So for messages I will do any message you'd like, as long as it's "appropriate"...however there are space limitations. The screen is 16x2 characters and your message must fit within that.
-John

Texak, let me know if you'd like to change your message. :-)

:yumyum:

I am very much on the fence about committing to this. I do not see myself really *needing* it so much as I am just curious about knowing what my engine would actually put out. I am rather neurotic about the health of the engine even though I have yet to have any cause for concern with the lack of issues.

Regardless, kudos to you for making this tester! Consider this my subscribing to the thread and trying to convince myself to get it!

John,
I am interested in 2 units. Do I calculate the shipping price X2 or do you have something like combined shipment?

Regards,
George

just found this.

john you have another pm coming.. :)

btw, could my splash screen say? please be good! :lol:

beers
scott

PM Sent

BTW: What are the MAXIMUM Characters allowed for the 'splash screen' including spaces.

:yumyum:

I am very much on the fence about committing to this. I do not see myself really *needing* it so much as I am just curious about knowing what my engine would actually put out. I am rather neurotic about the health of the engine even though I have yet to have any cause for concern with the lack of issues.

Regardless, kudos to you for making this tester! Consider this my subscribing to the thread and trying to convince myself to get it!

I was trying to think of something clever to say...but all I can come up with is.... "BUY ONE!!!" :-)

John,
I am interested in 2 units. Do I calculate the shipping price X2 or do you have something like combined shipment?

Regards,
George

Hello George,
The shipping method I'm using for the International folks will not change for 2 units. I can fit them both in the same box. So for 2 units you're looking at $497 USD shipped.

just found this.

john you have another pm coming.. :)

btw, could my splash screen say? please be good! :lol:

beers
scott

Scott, sure your splash screen can say that....it's short enough to fit on one line, but would you like it split up on both lines and centered?

-John

What about "Disconnect Crank Sensor FIRST" on Splash Screen.?

PM Sent

Chuck

What about "Disconnect Crank Sensor FIRST" on Splash Screen.?

Good example, and it will fit!
Disconnect Crank = 16 characters, line 1
Sensor FIRST = 12 characters, line 2
-John

Good example, and it will fit!
Disconnect Crank = 16 characters, line 1
Sensor FIRST = 12 characters, line 2
-John

Yep, I will have that thanks, in BLUE Please..

Payment sent, PM sent. You should have your minimum shortly.

ill send payment at end of work

Payment sent!

OK, by my count that is 8 or 9 paid... c'mon, only 2 more people!!! I want this thing soon!

Updated first post. We're off to a great start!!
-John

Would this work on the 16x?

The chamber is different. I'm thinking it would have to be calibrated for that.

PayPal sent for one more!

Would this work on the 16x?

The chamber is different. I'm thinking it would have to be calibrated for that.
It'll work just fine, just need the exact size of one rotor face and the compression ratio. Which reminds me...I've got correction factors in the original thread, I need to copy and paste them into the GB thread! Thanks!
-John

PayPal sent for one more!

Received, did I do your personal message right?
-John

just make it all lowercase....pcoppinger...thanks

Received, did I do your personal message right?
-John

If we order these now, will we be eligible for software updates when you release them (which I am sure is going to happen at some point for one reason or another)? Can we do the updates ourselves or would we have to ship the units back?

payment sent

what updates? the correction factor is just a table you can use to calculate by hand...

what updates? the correction factor is just a table you can use to calculate by hand...

Just saying most new products have a software revision within a few months of their release. Certain use cases not considered, bug with certain engine setups, etc.

Been working in software for 10 years and I've never seen a product go out at 100%. It just doesn't happen. Nature of the beast.

this is pretty cool. I'm still under warranty tho

Dam, need one more buyer so Twisted can get started.

this is pretty cool. I'm still under warranty tho

Compression tests aren't covered under warranty unless they show that your engine needs replacement.

Getting this will give you an engine compression baseline. If you test regularly you'll know if your engine is beginning to fail or not. Knowing that your engine is failing will help you know when to 'gamble' on a compression test by Mazda.

Dam, need one more buyer so Twisted can get started.

I'll likely be ordering as soon as I get a reply to my PM :)

just make it all lowercase....pcoppinger...thanks
Done! :)
If we order these now, will we be eligible for software updates when you release them (which I am sure is going to happen at some point for one reason or another)? Can we do the updates ourselves or would we have to ship the units back?
Without going into great detail, the firmware at it's core is very simple. Quite frankly the tester doesn't care what engine it's testing or even if it's an engine for that matter. You can see in one of my early YouTube videos I was using my air compressor and a ball valve to simulate the compression pulses of a rotary engine. The tester happily displayed the 3 separate pulses and an RPM calculated using those pulses. Now, with that said, if a defect were discovered with my firmware then the unit would be repaired under warranty.
Dam, need one more buyer so Twisted can get started.
At the time of this writing I have 11 units payed for! And in my infinite wisdom I pre-ordered 10 blue LCD's this morning before heading off to work. Even payed to put them on the "fast" boat from China (which unfortunately still isn't very fast :tear: )!
Compression tests aren't covered under warranty unless they show that your engine needs replacement.

Getting this will give you an engine compression baseline. If you test regularly you'll know if your engine is beginning to fail or not. Knowing that your engine is failing will help you know when to 'gamble' on a compression test by Mazda.
Precisely! And getting my tester through the Group Buy costs only ~50 than 1 compression test from Mazda. Sure sounds like a great deal to me!

Thanks to everyone for getting this underway!
-John

hw long will this group buy last?

I have payed for but not received my compression tester yet. Is there some issue?



















I JOKE! I TEASE!

1. Remove Engine Cover.
2. Verify that Battery is fully charged.
3. Warm Up Engine.
4. Remove the Trailing or Leading Spark Plug of the front and rear rotors.
5. Disconnect Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (Crank Sensor).

WARNING: Hot engines can cause severe Burns.

CAUTION: To cut the fuel injection and ignition, make sure the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (Crank Sensor) is Disconnected.

TO TEST COMPRESSIONS.

1. Install TR-01 Spark Plug Sensor to the Trailing or Leading side Spark Plug Hole Of The Rotor Housing.
2. Depress the Accelerator pedal fully and crank for 7 seconds or more.
3. Read Compressions and Engine Crank Speed (RPM).
4. Perform the same procedure for the other Rotor Housing.
5. If the compressions is at the minimum or less, or the difference in the chambers and difference in the rotors exceed the specifications, replace or overhaul engine.

SPECS RX-8 2009 Model.
Standard : 830kPA 8.5kgf-cm, 120 PSI @250RPM
Minimum : 680kPA 6.9kgf-cm, 98.6 PSI @ 250RPM
Standard Difference Between Chambers:
Within 150kPA 1.5kgf-cm, 21.8 PSI
Standard Difference in Rotors:
Within 100kPA 1.0kgf-cm, 14.5 PSI

6. Install Spark Plugs (correct heat ranges - Leading or Trailing).
7. Connect Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (Crank Sensor).
8. Install Engine Cover.

As I do not have the Series I Factory Workshop Manual I can't verify the details are the same (I would assume they are as the internals (Seals, ETC) of the 2 RENESIS's have not changed).

Just watched TR's videos, and a "related" one that popped up of a Japanese company using the Mazda one on a '92 FD. I'm absolutely in. Ordered.

1. Remove Engine Cover.
2. Verify that Battery is fully charged.
3. Warm Up Engine.
4. Remove the Trailing or Leading Spark Plug of the front and rear rotors.
5. Disconnect Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (Crank Sensor).

WARNING: Hot engines can cause severe Burns.

CAUTION: To cut the fuel injection and ignition, make sure the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (Crank Sensor) is Disconnected.

TO TEST COMPRESSIONS.

1. Install TR-01 Spark Plug Sensor to the Trailing or Leading side Spark Plug Hole Of The Rotor Housing.
2. Depress the Accelerator pedal fully and crank for 7 seconds or more.
3. Read Compressions and Engine Crank Speed (RPM).
4. Perform the same procedure for the other Rotor Housing.
5. If the compressions is at the minimum or less, or the difference in the chambers and difference in the rotors exceed the specifications, replace or overhaul engine.

SPECS RX-8 2009 Model.
Standard : 830kPA 8.5kgf-cm, 120 PSI @250RPM
Minimum : 680kPA 6.9kgf-cm, 98.6 PSI @ 250RPM
Standard Difference Between Chambers:
Within 150kPA 1.5kgf-cm, 21.8 PSI
Standard Difference in Rotors:
Within 100kPA 1.0kgf-cm, 14.5 PSI

6. Install Spark Plugs (correct heat ranges - Leading or Trailing).
7. Connect Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (Crank Sensor).
8. Install Engine Cover.

As I do not have the Series I Factory Workshop Manual I can't verify the details are the same (I would assume they are as the internals (Seals, ETC) of the 2 RENESIS's have not changed).

Thank you Ash! I've been trying to word up a step-by-step guide, but efficiently teaching someone to do something is not one of my strong suits. :-( I like your guide! Those numbers didn't click the first time you showed them but now looking at them more closely, they kind of scare me! 21.8 psi acceptable difference between chambers? My video of a 13B-REW with a chipped and cracked apex seal shows only a ~15psi difference! Sure that engine would run, but I think it'd be awfully lumpy.
-John

I have payed for but not received my compression tester yet. Is there some issue?























I JOKE! I TEASE!

funny,

my check is in the mail, but i got mine.

the color is wrong. and the screen on boot says.

no compression for carbonrx8. FAIL!

how odd is that?

:)

beers :beer:

I knew I missed some posts.
Carbon and Swoope, you guys crack me up! :lol:
r0tor - I'm planning to sell them for 2 months at the GB price.
-John

There is always ONE...isn't there...;)

There is always ONE...isn't there...;)

yes,

and thanks for covering are butt in the up over..

btw.. i almost dont think i am sorry for the little lock and load / michael / dave issue!

sorry off topic.. :)

beers :beer:

I knew I missed some posts.
Carbon and Swoope, you guys crack me up! :lol:
r0tor - I'm planning to sell them for 2 months at the GB price.
-John

yea,

and check you pp.

i changed the rules! everyone wins. :)

beers :beer:

Anyway, just a thought on TR-01 use...

I think for owners of John's TR-01 Comp Tester who Pre-Mix should cease doing so BEFORE you do your test, for a few reasons, and I think much would depend on how much you pre-mix.

1. It may not give you a 100% accurate reading as "well lubricated" seals could mask the real condition of your Apex, Side and Corner Seals.
2. For Heavy Pre-Mixer's you also don't want any of the 2 stroke oil contaminating the TR-01 Sensor as it may shorten it's life, gunk it up, and again give an inaccurate reading.

Perhaps John could confirm if 2 stroke oil would damage Sensor?.

Perhaps Kevin could verify if Pre-Mixing should be temporarily stopped before you take a Compression Reading?.

Ash

is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?

yea,

and check you pp.

i changed the rules! everyone wins. :)

beers :beer:

:D: Thank you very much sir! Did I get the message right?

Anyway, just a thought on TR-01 use...

I think for owners of John's TR-01 Comp Tester who Pre-Mix should cease doing so BEFORE you do your test, for a few reasons, and I think much would depend on how much you pre-mix.

1. It may not give you a 100% accurate reading as "well lubricated" seals could mask the real condition of your Apex, Side and Corner Seals.
2. For Heavy Pre-Mixer's you also don't want any of the 2 stroke oil contaminating the TR-01 Sensor as it may shorten it's life, gunk it up, and again give an inaccurate reading.

Perhaps John could confirm if 2 stroke oil would damage Sensor?.

Perhaps Kevin could verify if Pre-Mixing should be temporarily stopped before you take a Compression Reading?.

Ash

hhhhmm....well, I'm unsure if a "well lubricated" seal would affect the reading. It may take some comparison testing. I'm excited to get my tester out because gives us a standard that we can all start comparing readings with.
As for the 2 stroke oil, there shouldn't be enough left in the combustion chamber to work it's way into the sensor. But if it did somehow work it's way into the sensor then it can be cleaned by spraying some carb cleaner into the adapter opening. These sensors use a stainless steel diaphragm and would just as happily measure 2 stroke oil or fuel under pressure as anything else!
is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?
You're right, it should be cut during. Pulling the crank sensor will prevent the ECU from firing the spark plugs and fuel injectors. A bunch of unburnt fuel in the combustion chamber would throw off the reading.

-John

Fedex paid me a visit this morning......
http://www.twistedrotors.com/images/tr01_pcbs.JPG
:)
-John

Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered, and that bought all the sensors in stock. At this time the estimated ship date for more sensors is May 15th. Fortunately the majority of the parts are here in the US and should arrive next week. The units can then be assembled and tested while waiting for the LCD's to arrive from China. Just wanted to keep everyone informed. :)
-John

Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered, and that bought all the sensors in stock. At this time the estimated ship date for more sensors is May 15th. Fortunately the majority of the parts are here in the US and should arrive next week. The units can then be assembled and tested while waiting for the LCD's to arrive from China. Just wanted to keep everyone informed. :)
-John
Sounds like about three weeks to shipping (I think) for the first batch.

is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?

Yes, when you Disconnect Crank Sensor Fuel and Spark is cut, BUT, if you first warm up your engine before your run your test, residue may be present.

I guess when you remove your Spark Plugs it will give you a visual indication on how much 2 stroke may be present?.

Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered,

WooHOO! :SHOCKED: I made the cut! Looking forward to this thing. I have, uh, a few rotaries. :)

Sounds like about three weeks to shipping (I think) for the first batch.

Hopefully less than that. :-)
-John

I think I'll nab one of these. A few tests and it's paid for itself, not including if it catches a problem early on.

Just a question, this goes in a spark plug opening? Does it matter if you put it in a leading or trailing hole? I can't imagine it would make a difference, but just in case.

I think I'll nab one of these. A few tests and it's paid for itself, not including if it catches a problem early on.

Just a question, this goes in a spark plug opening? Does it matter if you put it in a leading or trailing hole? I can't imagine it would make a difference, but just in case.

Yep, disable your ignition by pulling the crank positioning sensor and thread the sensor in place of a spark plug and it shouldn't make a difference which plug you do. The directions that Ash8 posted up appear to be taken from the RX-8 FSM which says you can do either leading or trailing.
-John

I'm sold. Put me down for blue. Will paypal shortly.

The directions that Ash8 posted up appear to be taken from the RX-8 FSM which says you can do either leading or trailing.
-John

Yes John,
I can confirm the directions I posted are taken from the 2009 USA Mazda RX-8 Factory Workshop Manual, the directions are identical for the Series I and II.

The only thing I altered was to include the 'TR-01' as the Compression Testing Tool to use, not the Mazda Factory Unit.

Ash

Dead volume has been calculated and the correction factors are listed below. I decided not to code in an automatic correction as the number varies slightly depending on the engine type. For reference the internal volume of the sensor (with adapter) is 2.85cc. To correct for the sensor dead volume just multiply your readings by the correction number appropriate for your engine.
Engine Year Ratio Correction
12A 76-82 9.4 1.042
12A 83-85 9.4 1.042
13B 74-78 9.2 1.035
13B 84-85 9.4 1.036
13B N/T 86-88 9.4 1.036
13B T 86-88 8.5 1.032
13B N/T 89-92 9.7 1.038
13B T 89-92 9.0 1.034
13B T/T 93-95 9.0 1.034
13B Ren 04-on 10.0 1.039

Since the correction factor for all rotaries is between 3.2 and 4.2%, why not set a fixed software correction factor at 3.9%? Then RENESIS owners can read their actual compression directly, and everybody else will be off less than 1%, with most off by 0.5% or less. With those small correction factors, the variance is small enough we won't need a calculator in the tool box. :)

because I have a 13B-REW and I want to read it directly and let you calculate yours so set it to 3.4% instead ;)

Ya, I think he originated from RX7's, so if he was going to go with one engine as the standard, it'd probably be 13B-REW. Though I do think he might as well have made it accurate for one engine, because that would be one less group of engines that would need to use a correction factor. But in the end, I bet it makes for less labor and thus less cost for us. I have a calculator on my phone anyway, so whatever :P

because I have a 13B-REW and I want to read it directly and let you calculate yours so set it to 3.4% instead ;)

That'd be fine by me. Only 0.5% off at that setting. Neither of us would have to whip out a calculator to get our compression readings. :)

Any idea what the price will be a little later? I was planning to buy this when you came out with it but it's a bit early for me to fork out 300 bucks at the moment. Will have more money to spend in the summer.

Btw, did you compare it to the factory compression tester for comparison values? (we talked about that in another thread)

Concerning the correction factor, it's really not a big enough issue to implement an automatic correction. I included them to try and help give the most accurate reading possible. It really comes down to only ~3-4psi. When I check an engine I don't bother with a calculator, I just add 4 psi and go with that.
My tester has not yet been compared to a factory tester. I do still plan to do that in the future, if/when I gain access to a mazda tester.
On a side note, I used my old prototype to test a friends FD this past weekend. The car had been running rough but would start fairly easily. I thought it sounded ok at idle, but he knows his car a lot better than I. Tests of the rear rotor were in the high 80's range (after correction) but the front rotor read 70, 40, 45. :tear: I tried to get a video, but it was dark out and my little camera just wasn't cutting it.
-John

Yep, disable your ignition by pulling the crank positioning sensor and thread the sensor in place of a spark plug and it shouldn't make a difference which plug you do. The directions that Ash8 posted up appear to be taken from the RX-8 FSM which says you can do either leading or trailing.
-John

FYI - My OE Mazda manual says to use the trailing plug :)

add me to the list for one please.

blue lcd, www.lucky7racing.net

Little update:
I've received all the LCD's, turns out that the "fast boat from china" is actually a plane. :-P And now that it's stopped flooding here I should get most of the components to start putting units together. Will post again later.
-John

Oh wow, you are selling these cheaper than I thought you would be. I need to order one as well just in case.

My results were ~110 psi on every face of both rotors. This was at 20,000 and 26,000 miles on the car.

I figured I'd throw this in the group buy thread so everyone has some sort of base line.

Edit: I was the tester for RX-8's.

I sent you pm but never got an answer????

let me know
Thank you

I sent you pm but never got an answer????

let me know
Thank you

Sorry about that, my PM box has been rather busy lately. :Eyecrazy: Replied.

Oh wow, you are selling these cheaper than I thought you would be. I need to order one as well just in case.

My results were ~110 psi on every face of both rotors. This was at 20,000 and 26,000 miles on the car.

I figured I'd throw this in the group buy thread so everyone has some sort of base line.

Edit: I was the tester for RX-8's.

Yep, give me a call when you get a chance. Haven't heard from you in a while.

-John

I'll take a Blue LCD. You'll have the money within a couple days. Now, question...I have a long name, will Property of ; Paul Peitzmeier fit?

Seeing as how I've had an RX-7 stolen from me, I want this to be rather secure with me.

I'll take a Blue LCD. You'll have the money within a couple days. Now, question...I have a long name, will Property of ; Paul Peitzmeier fit?

Seeing as how I've had an RX-7 stolen from me, I want this to be rather secure with me.

Hi Paul, your first and last name will fit just fine on the bottom line. :)
-John

sweet tool. i should get mine checked before i put my turbo on.

Update: Well I've been soldering most of the day, and the fumes are really starting to get to me. LOL! I've also received the parts to build the cases and the sensors, unfortunately I only got 9 sensors. With the 4 I already had, that puts me at 13 units vs 14 that I originaly was going to be able to ship prior to the 15th. The company I'm ordering these from seems to be having a hard time keeping them in stock. They will have more in stock on the 15th, but I've contacted another supplier as well just in case. I'm not sure that they'll do business with little 'ol me, but we'll just have to see. All during development I was the only one ordering those sensors, now someone else obviously is.....perhaps someone here is building their own tester? :suspect:
-John

fumes are bad, mmmkay :lol:

How long is the cable? That is, do you need someone else to crank the engine?

]... With the 4 I already had, that puts me at 13 units vs 14 that I originaly was going to be able to ship prior to the 15th.

Whaa?! I'm #14... :crying: :crying: :crying:

Eh, no sweat. I'll live.

How long is the cable? That is, do you need someone else to crank the engine?
The cable is ~36 inches, when testing my FD I can place the tester between my raised hood and the windshield and see it while cranking. I'm not sure if that'll work since you RX-8 guys go through the wheel well. It shouldn't be a big deal if you can't see it, as the reading won't go away when you stop cranking. So you could crank your engine over, then get out and look at the tester. Texak just tested his car, maybe he will post and let us know where he set the tester.

Whaa?! I'm #14... :crying: :crying: :crying:

Eh, no sweat. I'll live.

I know...I'm really sorry. I'm working on a solution, but I don't want to say more until I'm sure it's going to work.

-John

You have one busy thread going!

:Eyecrazy:

The cable is ~36 inches, when testing my FD I can place the tester between my raised hood and the windshield and see it while cranking. I'm not sure if that'll work since you RX-8 guys go through the wheel well. It shouldn't be a big deal if you can't see it, as the reading won't go away when you stop cranking. So you could crank your engine over, then get out and look at the tester. Texak just tested his car, maybe he will post and let us know where he set the tester.

But presumably the last numbers are taken during the period the engine is running down, and so unreliable. This is one of the reasons why I asked you in your other thread about displaying a final average. Those averages would be the numbers you will write down, rather than the ones you derive mentally from the couple of hundred that flash by during the test.

You have one busy thread going!

:Eyecrazy:

I've never been this popular! :lol:

But presumably the last numbers are taken during the period the engine is running down, and so unreliable. This is one of the reasons why I asked you in your other thread about displaying a final average. Those averages would be the numbers you will write down, rather than the ones you derive mentally from the couple of hundred that flash by during the test.

The final face of compression is traditionaly low, however it is not necessarily shown. The screen is only updated on every other rotation and then only after it reads 3 compression pulses. Basically, you have a 1 in 6 chance that the final face of compression will read low and cause the screen to update. This can be seen in 1 of the 14 tests that Texak did on his car. His results are posted here: http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=172766 . If it happens to someone else, just crank the engine over a few more times and look at the screen again.
-John

Hi everyone, sorry for the lack of updates...but I've been busy!!! First 10 testers are out and 5 more should be done and out before Friday. Keep an eye on your email as I'm sending out a notice to you when your tester ships. I've got a pretty steady stream of parts coming in, but I'm still trying to get the hang of this whole inventory thing and keeping everything organized.
-John

Thanks for the update. Can't wait!

Just want to mention that I got my Tester in the Mail yesterday or the day before. . Looks great and I cant wait to try it out.

aggg cant wait till i get mine to

Just want to mention that I got my Tester in the Mail yesterday or the day before. . Looks great and I cant wait to try it out.

Wow, that was really fast! Let me know how it goes.

aggg cant wait till i get mine to

Hi Czar, your tester shipped with todays group. :)

!!!! SWEEETT now if only my car wasnt in the shop... your close enough i could have just drove to pick it up lol

what no love for the green lcd? ;)

hey, and i tipped!!!! :lol: no respect! :)

beers :beer:

Just want to mention that I got my Tester in the Mail yesterday or the day before. . Looks great and I cant wait to try it out.

I too received mine on Wednesday, looks like quality, can't wait until this weekend to try it.

what no love for the green lcd? ;)

hey, and i tipped!!!! :lol: no respect! :)

beers :beer:

Oh man, the whips are crackin' now!! lol! And yours was shipped yesterday Swoope. :)

-John

so any feedback yet on these from the new owners?

when i feel like finding some where to park and do it, i'll post up my numbers, just feeling lazy and the apartment complex yelled at me last time for doing my suspension in my parking spot

so far it turns on ^_^, and its very blue

Well I am very interested. Let me see if I can dig up some money

so any feedback yet on these from the new owners?

I still dont have any injectors so my UIM is just sitting there. I dont really know if I can test compression with the throttle body and all disconnected. Will test as soon as I have the car back together.

Maybe I can get Kersh to come over and test compression on his engine

i will try to do mine soon, ive already been warned by the apartment complex for doing the suspension in the parking lot lol.

Hi John , Any news?

Hey Ash, still workin'! Yours is in the group to ship tomorrow. Once I have that group out then I'll be caught up. :-)
-John

Hey john,

gb is running smooth... any idea what group i am in and an a eta on shipping


hybrid from rx7 club

got mine monday,

was used monday night. not by me or with me there, but it worked like a charm..

great job john! :)

beers :beer:

Well I am very interested. Let me see if I can dig up some money

Do not forget me......:squint:

I too received mine on Wednesday, looks like quality, can't wait until this weekend to try it.

So Phill didi you get a chance to use it yet?

Do not forget me......:squint:



So Phill didi you get a chance to use it yet?
No not yet, having problems. See your PM. Ray should be up soon and I'll try it then. If yours is going to be a while, let me know.

got mine monday,

was used monday night. not by me or with me there, but it worked like a charm..

great job john! :)

beers :beer:


Indeed it was!

Thanks :)

has it been compared to the Mazda tester yet?

Ya, I think he originated from RX7's, so if he was going to go with one engine as the standard, it'd probably be 13B-REW. Though I do think he might as well have made it accurate for one engine, because that would be one less group of engines that would need to use a correction factor. But in the end, I bet it makes for less labor and thus less cost for us. I have a calculator on my phone anyway, so whatever :P

has the eagle landed yet? I would like a test plzzzzzzzz :)

Money sent, along with custom message :)

BLUE LCD please.

-Jon

Hi John,

Just tracking my TR-01...

Taken 6 days since you posted it to arrive here..!!!!

International Dispatch, May 27, 2009, 8:16 pm, FOREIGN CENTERJERSEY CITY NJ 099

I got a Filtermag from the US in 7 days to my door.

Sometimes you just can't work it out?

I guess it will arrive when it is ready to ;)

I don't know about Australia, but a cool thing I noticed about Canada is that once it crosses the border, the tracking code for USPS works on CanadaPost's website, and they have more detail about where it is compared to USPS.... So check your local post website and see if the tracking code works there...

I'm thinking mine's in a batch that hasn't been -made- yet, lol. It would be nice to get the list on the first page updated so I can figure out how many are before me :)

-Jon

Hi John,

Just tracking my TR-01...

Taken 6 days since you posted it to arrive here..!!!!

International Dispatch, May 27, 2009, 8:16 pm, FOREIGN CENTERJERSEY CITY NJ 099

I got a Filtermag from the US in 7 days to my door.

Sometimes you just can't work it out?

I guess it will arrive when it is ready to ;)

I'm sorry to hear it's taking so long Ash, I hope it gets there soon!


I'm thinking mine's in a batch that hasn't been -made- yet, lol. It would be nice to get the list on the first page updated so I can figure out how many are before me :)

-Jon

You are correct Jon, building in progress. :-) And I'm not able to edit the first post any longer to update it so I kinda just gave up on it.

-John

This thing still goin' on?

B

Got mine today, thanks man!

Got mine too this morning Down Under...Thank you John!
Ash

OK, John and Anyone else..

Even though my car is still new (6 months) I plan on doing a Compression Test annually and making a record of the results, PSI, Rotor, mileage and date, etc.

I think every year would be enough...what do you guys think, Please?

So, if I run my Test on Rotor 1 and get 115,114,115 at 280 RPM, I then have to do the conversion factor of times 1.039, I hate math!!!!..

So 115 time 1.039 = 119.48 or say 119 PSI for the RENNY RX-8 Rotary.

Is this correct guys??

Then obviously do the #2 Rotor (rear)..

Thanks in advance..
Ash

This thing still goin' on?

B

Absolutely!

Got mine today, thanks man!

Good to hear!

OK, John and Anyone else..

Even though my car is still new (6 months) I plan on doing a Compression Test annually and making a record of the results, PSI, Rotor, mileage and date, etc.

I think every year would be enough...what do you guys think, Please?

So, if I run my Test on Rotor 1 and get 115,114,115 at 280 RPM, I then have to do the conversion factor of times 1.039, I hate math!!!!..

So 115 time 1.039 = 119.48 or say 119 PSI for the RENNY RX-8 Rotary.

Is this correct guys??

Then obviously do the #2 Rotor (rear)..

Thanks in advance..
Ash

Your math is just fine Ash, that's exactly right. To finish your example it'd be:
Rotor 1, Face 1 - 115*1.039=119.48psi
Rotor 1, Face 2 - 114*1.039=118.44psi
Rotor 1, Face 3 - 115*1.039=119.48psi
And repeat for rotor 2 like you said. :)

-John

Hi all,

I tested the tester today against the Mazda factory one.....
The results are a bit confusing.

Here are the results, can someone please double check the math behind it??? I do not seem to get accurate numbers.

TR1 test, Rotor 1
RPM: 298
Face 1, 112
Face 2, 113
Face 3, 113

Rotor 2
RPM: 305
Face 1, 109
Face 2, 113
Face 3, 110

After applying the correction factor (1.039), and converting PSI to kPascal (1 PSI = 6.894 kPa), we get approximately:

Rotor 1
RPM: 298
Face 1, 112*1.039*6.894 = 802 kPa (rounded)
Face 2, 113*1.039*6.894 = 809 kPa
Face 3, 113*1.039*6.894 = 809 kPa

Rotor 2
RPM: 305
Face 1, 109*1.039*6.894 = 781 kPa
Face 2, 113*1.039*6.894 = 809 kPa
Face 3, 110*1.039*6.894 = 788 kPa

Now converting the first rotor with a correction of -90 kPa (because of higher revs) and the second rotor with -101 kPa (both found in a table from the Greek RX8 Club), I get the following final numbers....

Rotor 1
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 712 kPa
Face 2, 719 kPa
Face 3, 719 kPa

Rotor 2
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 680 kPa
Face 2, 708 kPa
Face 3, 687 kPa

The original Mazda Tester (used about 3-5 minutes later than the TR01) showed:
Rotor 1
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 570 kPa
Face 2, 610 kPa
Face 3, 670 kPa

Rotor 2
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 680 kPa
Face 2, 720 kPa
Face 3, 710 kPa

My concern is not about the difference in the "faces" as it might be in the wrong order, but the fact that rotors seem to be way off.
Now the question.....if the math is correct, could the difference depend on a wrong measurement induced by not depressing fully the throttle?
I am asking because the Mazda test was performed by myself (I was cranking), while on the TR01 test, I was holding the tester while someone else was (maybe false) cranking......

Any ideas?

Regards,
George

So you converted the Mazda tester to kPa as well? Because IIRC the mazda tester measures in kg/cm2...

Can we get the original Mazda compression numbers, uncorrected in any way, along with the rpm at which they were measured?

Since we already have those for the TR-01, it might help to figure out where the issue is.

Jon

So you converted the Mazda tester to kPa as well? Because IIRC the mazda tester measures in kg/cm2...

Can we get the original Mazda compression numbers, uncorrected in any way, along with the rpm at which they were measured?

Since we already have those for the TR-01, it might help to figure out where the issue is.

Jon

You are right.....
The corrected values are (in kPa)

Rotor 1
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 559 kPa (5.70 kg/cm2)
Face 2, 598 kPa (6.10 kg/cm2)
Face 3, 657 kPa (6.70 kg/cm2)

Rotor 2
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 667 kPa (6.80 kg/cm2)
Face 2, 706 kPa (7.20 kg/cm2)
Face 3, 696 kPa (7.10 kg/cm2)

!!!!!!!!!

Hello George,
Thanks for taking the time to compare both testers together and for posting up the results. I think your math looks just fine. The second rotor appears spot on after correction but the first rotor is way off. Just to clarify, you were holding the throttle open during the Mazda test, correct? A closed throttle would cause lower readings. Was only 1 test for each tester performed? Would it be possible to retest this same engine using both testers again?
-John

P.S. - Sorry, I had to convert your numbers to PSI to keep my eyes from crossing!! :lol: Just for reference, here's what I got:

TR-01:
Rotor 1
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 712 kPa = 103.3 psi
Face 2, 719 kPa = 104.3 psi
Face 3, 719 kPa = 104.3 psi

Rotor 2
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 680 kPa = 98.6 psi
Face 2, 708 kPa = 102.6 psi
Face 3, 687 kPa = 99.6 psi

Mazda Tester:
Rotor 1
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 559 kPa (5.70 kg/cm2) = 81.1 psi
Face 2, 598 kPa (6.10 kg/cm2) = 86.7 psi
Face 3, 657 kPa (6.70 kg/cm2) = 95.3 psi

Rotor 2
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 667 kPa (6.80 kg/cm2) = 96.7 psi
Face 2, 706 kPa (7.20 kg/cm2) = 102.4 psi
Face 3, 696 kPa (7.10 kg/cm2) = 100.9 psi

Ordered mine a few days ago but rx8club account was only approved now. Forum name is thewird on rx7club . I'd like to have the personal screen as "Did she blow it yet?". Also, I forgot to mention I wanted the green screen. Thanks.

thewird

You are right.....
The corrected values are (in kPa)

Rotor 1
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 559 kPa (5.70 kg/cm2)
Face 2, 598 kPa (6.10 kg/cm2)
Face 3, 657 kPa (6.70 kg/cm2)

Rotor 2
RPM: 250 (corrected)
Face 1, 667 kPa (6.80 kg/cm2)
Face 2, 706 kPa (7.20 kg/cm2)
Face 3, 696 kPa (7.10 kg/cm2)

!!!!!!!!!


Thanks but I would still like to know the uncorrected values.... not that I don't trust the correction table from the other club, I just think that if we find an issue that having the original values and rpms might be more helpful than corrected ones...

Jon

Jon,
I posted the uncorrected values in my first post....
Here they are again:

TR1 test, Rotor 1
RPM: 298
Face 1, 112 PSI
Face 2, 113 PSI
Face 3, 113 PSI

Rotor 2
RPM: 305
Face 1, 109 PSI
Face 2, 113 PSI
Face 3, 110 PSI

These are uncorrected.

The Mazda tool showed:

Rotor 1
RPM: 250
Face 1, 5.70 kg/cm2
Face 2, 6.10 kg/cm2
Face 3, 6.70 kg/cm2

Rotor 2
RPM: 250
Face 1, 6.80 kg/cm2
Face 2, 7.20 kg/cm2
Face 3, 7.10 kg/cm2

I will try to retest the same engine or another one, so that we get better "statistical" data.

Regards,
George

Oh, so you actually were cranking at exactly 250rpm for the Mazda one, that's what I missed. I thought you had corrected the mazda values to 250 as well.

Jon

Whats the lead time look like right now? There is a car meet on July first I'd love to have it for.

Payment sent!

This thing still goin' on?

B

dude,

straw and dixie cup for you.

:)

beers :beer:

hey john received the tool last week thanx :)

I did a test on my TII S4 , tested from leading plugs holes, throttle wide open with raw data readings

Front 248 RPM 86 85 85

Rear 237 RPM 72 74 73


what correction do i need to do?

spec is min 85 psi on a TII right?

hybrid

hey john received the tool last week thanx :)

I did a test on my TII S4 , tested from leading plugs holes, throttle wide open with raw data readings

Front 248 RPM 86 85 85 (corrected) 88.7 87.7 87.7

Rear 237 RPM 72 74 73 (corrected) 74.4 76.4 75.3


what correction do i need to do?

spec is min 85 psi on a TII right?

hybrid

Hey Hybrid,
I'm glad you like your tester! For correcting those numbers you'd need to multiply the readings by 1.032. That's the correction factor for a S4 TII. This is what I got:

Front 248 RPM 86 85 85 (corrected 88.7 87.7 87.7)
Rear 237 RPM 72 74 73 (corrected 74.4 76.4 75.3)

Now, that doesn't take into account for the slower RPM. For that, we need to take a look at the FSM. Mazda put a graph in each FSM that shows how to compensate for low RPMs during the test. I've got the RX8 FSM downloaded, but can't find my '87 TII FSM at this moment. I'm going to look for it, or start downloading the digital copy and I'll post when I get it.
-John

This is low compression, on 250 rpm it will be:
Front 89.28 88.28 88.28
Rear 78.17 80.17 79.07

Minimum is 98.6 psi.

hey john received the tool last week thanx :)

I did a test on my TII S4 , tested from leading plugs holes, throttle wide open with raw data readings

Front 248 RPM 86 85 85

Rear 237 RPM 72 74 73


what correction do i need to do?

spec is min 85 psi on a TII right?

hybrid

You need to re-do the test. According to the FSM compression tests have to be taken from the trailing spark plug hole. It makes a big difference.

Then you have to multiply by the correction factor posted here as well as correcting for RPM.

Jon

This is low compression, on 250 rpm it will be:
Front 89.28 88.28 88.28
Rear 78.17 80.17 79.07

Minimum is 98.6 psi.

That minimum is for RX-8's, it is not correct for this car. The FSM for S4's states a minimum of 85. Here's a pic from the 86-88 FSM.

http://www.twistedrotors.com/images/S4_FSM_Comp_Test.jpg

As for leading vs. trailing, I would agree and recommend to re-test from the trailing hole. Personally I don't think there will be much if any difference, but I have not tested the same engine from both leading and trailing so maybe I will learn something new. :)
-John

I'd like to add to keep in mind that the minimum's are just what Mazda recommends. Now for the RX-8 guys under warranty this is a big deal because they could get a new engine installed for free. For those of us that have never owned a rotary with any kind of warranty, then this number becomes subjective. Does your car feel strong? Does it start easily? If yes, then I wouldn't let these numbers bother you that much. The readings are even across the board and that engine may have quite a bit of fun left in it. If on the other hand you've been looking for a sign to drop-in that brand new bridge-port with the giant turbo, then this may be it. :)
-John

yep will redo the test this weekend and report back......but all in all a rebuild is on order

hybrid

Placed my order. I can't wait to get this.

PM sent
Money sent

Payments received! Thanks guys.


And if there's anyone on the fence about getting a tester now, there's only 6 days left at the GB price!! Get 'em while they're cheap!
-John

What's the status on current orders?

thewird

What's the status on current orders?

thewird

Assembly in progress. Got all the parts, now I'm putting 'em together. :)
-John

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

this seems like a must have tool!

this seems like a must have tool!

It is. ;)

-John

How's the next batch coming along?

Coming right along. :)
Boards are soldered, sensor modules are assembled....just have to finish machining the cases, mount the boards and screens in the case and close 'em up. :)
-John

any luck out there yet on a comparo with mazda's numbers???

So I figured I would show you guys what I have been working on. Anyone care to check my maths?

http://foxed.ca/Rx-7/rotarycalc.png

Is there time to include an order for mine as well ?

would this work on the UK models? also would it work on he rx7

So I figured I would show you guys what I have been working on. Anyone care to check my maths?

Very slick, Sgt Fox. Don't suppose you are writing it in a portable language? If not, I'll test it for you in Linux with Wine. :)

Very slick, Sgt Fox. Don't suppose you are writing it in a portable language? If not, I'll test it for you in Linux with Wine. :)

I should be able to compile it for windows. linux, mac and mobile devices. I have to program all the other engines in first though.

^ I can help with a BlackBerry load if you'd like.

I was gonna make one but looks like you've done good work already so... :P

Iphone!!!! Please

i have sent a pm to tiwistedroters, but have not received a response. Any one have any other method of contacting him ?

would this work on the UK models? also would it work on he rx7

Yes and yes. :boink:

I should be able to compile it for windows. linux, mac and mobile devices. I have to program all the other engines in first though.

VERY NICE!! Linux for me please!



And to all, I am extending the GB for 2 more weeks. I admit this is a last minute decision, however my webstore is not up at this time and I keep getting requests for orders. So...GB price is good until July 9th!!
-John

i have sent a pm to tiwistedroters, but have not received a response. Any one have any other method of contacting him ?

Sorry! PM'd you back. :)

Hi,

I want to buy. blue LCD

Thanks

^ I can help with a BlackBerry load if you'd like.

I was gonna make one but looks like you've done good work already so... :P

BB Storm, plz :)

Also, progress on the current batch? I'm getting very antsy :p

BB Storm, plz :)

Also, progress on the current batch? I'm getting very antsy :p

I can make it for any BB version but I'll need his source code first.

Hi,

I want to buy. blue LCD

Thanks

Hello Andy, shipping time is currently 2-3 weeks from receipt of payment.

BB Storm, plz :)

Also, progress on the current batch? I'm getting very antsy :p

Yours (and 5 others) ship tomorrow!


On a personal note: I had wanted this last batch to be out about a week ago, but the real world always seems to get in the way. I've spent the last week getting setup in a small warehouse and just yesterday was able to get back to working on testers. No more assembling these things on the kitchen table! :lol:

Subscribed. I may need one of these in the future.

Hello Andy, shipping time is currently 2-3 weeks from receipt of payment.
I paid. Check your paypal account.

any eta for mine ?

I paid. Check your paypal account.

Payment received, thank you!

any eta for mine ?

Parts have been ordered for the final batch. I actually have the boards assembled, but ran out of cases and connectors. Oops. :uh:

-John

Got mine today! Thanks. Can't wait to try it out!

Any chance to get in on this still? (sorry haven't kept up with the thread too well)

Compression numbers on my 3mm one piece ceramic apex seal engine with 17,000 km that has detonated twice with audible detonation...

front: 72 75 75 @ 277 RPM
rear: 50 59 65 @ 288 RPM
Corrected:
front: 74.5 77.6 77.6 @ 277 RPM
rear: 51.7 61.0 67.2 @ 288 RPM

I'm not too worried about the low compression numbers but the rear rotor is definitely weaker. The car still runs great at the track so I'll wait until the end of the season to open her up. I was planning to do it anyway to observe the effects of methanol on the internals.

thewird

any eta on mine ?

any eta on mine ?

Yours will ship early next week! :)

Compression numbers on my 3mm one piece ceramic apex seal engine with 17,000 km that has detonated twice with audible detonation...

front: 72 75 75 @ 277 RPM
rear: 50 59 65 @ 288 RPM
Corrected:
front: 74.5 77.6 77.6 @ 277 RPM
rear: 51.7 61.0 67.2 @ 288 RPM

I'm not too worried about the low compression numbers but the rear rotor is definitely weaker. The car still runs great at the track so I'll wait until the end of the season to open her up. I was planning to do it anyway to observe the effects of methanol on the internals.

thewird


Glad the tester is working well for you. Please do post here when you crack that keg open. It'd be neat to see what condition those seals are in to give numbers like that...whether one is chipped or just cracked.
-John

hey twisted rotors your tester looks very good could you send one of them to southern ireland :dunno: if you could how much would you be looking for one including the delivery

Crap, I can't get a response to PMs. You are one busy dude! What the hell, PayPal sent, hope you can fill the order!

hey twisted rotors your tester looks very good could you send one of them to southern ireland :dunno: if you could how much would you be looking for one including the delivery

Hello Rob, while the GB is technically over there are a few people that were not able to get in on the GB price. Since I am not a vendor I can not place my website here, but I will respond to people who request information.

Crap, I can't get a response to PMs. You are one busy dude! What the hell, PayPal sent, hope you can fill the order!

Sorry about that Wes, I had to go back a month to find your PM! Big mistake on my part and my apologies, don't worry, I can take care of you.

And yes, the GB is officially over. A big thanks to everyone and I hope you all enjoy your compression testers....and that you tell all your friends how much you enjoy it and encourage them to buy one as well. ;) I haven't heard any bad news back from anyone yet, but if there are any questions or problems please feel free to email or PM me. I've learned quite a bit from this and I plan to continue developing my compression testers. Thanks again!

-John

P.S.- I assume a moderator will lock this thread now?

:icon_tup:

was mine shipped ?

was mine shipped ?

Yep. Check your email.
-John

Got mine today. [Hattori Hanzo voice] Verrrrrrry Gooooood! [/Hattori Hanzo voice] Thanks, John! Now we'll see if this motor is ready for a supercharger :naughty:

got mine too!

92 98 92 at 160 rpm

and

95 97 94 at 156 rpm.

how do these figures look for my rx8?

You must have the old starter. Is it an 04?

I got ~109 but I was cranking at 100 rpm's more than you.

got mine too!

92 98 92 at 160 rpm

and

95 97 94 at 156 rpm.

how do these figures look for my rx8?

Looks like your starter is on life support...

Got mine today. [Hattori Hanzo voice] Verrrrrrry Gooooood! [/Hattori Hanzo voice] Thanks, John! Now we'll see if this motor is ready for a supercharger :naughty:

I love that movie, and you are very welcome!

got mine too!

92 98 92 at 160 rpm

and

95 97 94 at 156 rpm.

how do these figures look for my rx8?

I think those numbers look fantastic for that RPM! :yesnod:

You must have the old starter. Is it an 04?

I got ~109 but I was cranking at 100 rpm's more than you.

Welcome back Mr. Beta Tester, where ya been? Think you can make it to the Houston RX Club meet next Tuesday?

yep, its a 2004, so i guess, my engine is okay! thank god!

gX1, fix or replace your starter and test again.

I love that movie, and you are very welcome!


The pleasure is all mine, John. I can't tell you how nice it is to deal with a pleasant and responsive vendor; I hope we get more like you. :git:

Am I too late?

Am I too late?

i have one if you need to borrow it.

beers :beer:

Am I too late?

PM sent. Check out Swoope's and let me know what you think. :)
-John

Anyone in the NYC metro get one of these?

Am I too late?
I hope your not to late- great product - very happy with it.

anyone in south florida

So what are these going for now? I might do a bulk buy if the price is right.

would this work on the UK models? also would it work on he rx7

DAMN!!! Anyone notice how cute she is??? lol

how do these look, the engine was only partialy warmed up it had cooled down to 150F by the time I got started, engine number 2 ^_^ first engine died at 21,311

non corrected
Rear 105 104 105 (had a weird one that showed 107 111 105 on a 3rd try so meh)
front 101 100 102 ( had issues getting it tighten so may have been leaking slightly, and the connector kepted falling off )

rpm 255

got around to checking mine...
Front: 103 102 103 at 288 rpm
Rear: 105 104 107 at 292 rpm

... looks like i'm barely below spec -sigh-

got around to checking mine...
Front: 103 102 103 at 288 rpm
Rear: 105 104 107 at 292 rpm

... looks like i'm barely below spec -sigh-


I was going to say that most Rx7 people are below spec, there is just how bad below they are.

I know of a few people that have drove around on a 60-70 psi motor, sometimes hard to start but still runs.

So what are these going for now? I might do a bulk buy if the price is right.

PM sent!

how do these look, the engine was only partialy warmed up it had cooled down to 150F by the time I got started, engine number 2 ^_^ first engine died at 21,311

non corrected
Rear 105 104 105 (had a weird one that showed 107 111 105 on a 3rd try so meh)
front 101 100 102 ( had issues getting it tighten so may have been leaking slightly, and the connector kepted falling off )

rpm 255

Well as an RX-7 guy I think those numbers look fantastic, but I know the 8's are expected to have higher numbers.

What kind of issues did you have with tightening the sensor into the sparkplug hole? With the rubber o-ring in place it should only need to be hand tightened to get a good seal. Did it feel as thought the threads were binding up?

got around to checking mine...
Front: 103 102 103 at 288 rpm
Rear: 105 104 107 at 292 rpm

... looks like i'm barely below spec -sigh-

I think they look fine. :)

So who's going to SevenStockXII? I'll be there and I'm donating a compression tester to the raffle! Hope to meet some of you there.

-John

my glove is soaked in oil so i guess i was slipping trying to tighten.

my glove is soaked in oil so i guess i was slipping trying to tighten.

Oh, ok. Well that makes sense. You're not the only person to have an issue with tightening the sensor though. I know the heat-shrink tubing isn't the best solution, but it's the easiest and best looking option. I love getting feedback from my customers, good or bad, it all helps. :)
-John

my only other concern was the connector from the plug adapter to the box(technicaly hu) it falls off to easy for me .

was about to tape it after i plug it in

What kind of issues did you have with tightening the sensor into the sparkplug hole? With the rubber o-ring in place it should only need to be hand tightened to get a good seal. Did it feel as thought the threads were binding up?

I had trouble when I first started using it with the shrink-wrap sleeve around the sensor slipping. I couldn't even get the sensor hand-tight, so I had to cut the sleeve off. Now it works fine and looks shiny. :)

Random Q: Would this tester work on a piston engine?

retested the rear correctly this time warmed up the motorgot it tight and boom

number
115 114 117 @240 something rpms

non corrected, i didnt bother retesting the front

got around to checking mine...
Front: 103 102 103 at 288 rpm
Rear: 105 104 107 at 292 rpm

... looks like i'm barely below spec -sigh-


I'm lower than you, and I still get it to start every morning! LOL

Hi, I have already bought your tester and I want to buy two more, there is a ready?

I would be in for one unit also if still available

I would like to know what the deal is as well :) looks like a nice unit.

I sent you a pm asking for a price quote shipped, do you still make these?

I sent you a pm asking for a price quote shipped, do you still make these?

He hasn't been on since September 3 last year. I wouldn't count on getting an answer. :( You might try contacting him through twistedrotors.com.

So I figured I would show you guys what I have been working on. Anyone care to check my maths?

http://foxed.ca/Rx-7/rotarycalc.png

hey Sgt, did you ever complete this?

hey Sgt, did you ever complete this?

I did. http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rotarycalc

I checked it against a few of the other converters floating around. Mine seems pretty much the same as the others, aside from me taking the engine correction value into consideration.

I did. http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rotarycalc

Nice! Thanks!

Please consider setting the code Free so those of us who don't run windows can build on the great work you've done and make it run on our machines. Might see it on a Nexus One or Nokia N900 if you do. :yesnod: Release it under the GNU General Public License (http://www.gnu.org/licenses/quick-guide-gplv3.html) and you'll always get credit and be able to incorporate improvements others make back into your version.

Is this still available, or has the group buy closed out?

group buy is closed.

Well, this unit works well.

Just a little too well, if the stark truth isn't what you wanna see.

Installed a new blower on my '04 GT with only 15K miles on the motor.

Won't start. Tries, but won't catch and run. Truly epic flood symptoms.

After performing deflooding procedures, oh, about a zillion times (OK, only about a hundred), I hook up the tester, which worked perfectly.

Both rotors, all face values in the 50's. (That's "fifties", as in "5-OH", or "Fiddy")

Apex seals are obviously hibernating deep, deep in the rotors, and I don't think they'll be coming out in the spring. Long story, but I think the previous owner somehow managed to carbonize the motor (see: carbonite/star wars/impenetrable encasement system/jabbathehut)

But hey, at least I know what the problem is :banghead:

Put some tranny oil through the spark plug holes to build compression and try again.

thewird

Has anyone been able to contact the inventor? twistedrotors.com (http://twistedrotors.com) is still up; but attempts to order through the website fail (both blue and green show as out of stock as soon as you try to order either one), and all of the emails and PMs I've tried sending also go without any response. I even tried contacting the inventor through the inventor's youtube account. I'm not expecting the group buy price; but I still want to order one because I am pretty sure my compression is fading fast; but I want to be sure.

Ok, plan B.... is anyone that bought one of these in the metro New York City area? I am willing to travel to you and compensate you for your time and the use of you compression tester. Please PM me.

The group buy closed a while back. You might try contacting him in the 7 forum. He said he spend a lot of online time there. The tool works great........

Put some tranny oil through the spark plug holes to build compression and try again.

thewird

Thanks. Been trying that, so far no luck, I keep hoping that eventually it'll soak around the springs and seal and let them release.

Has anyone been able to contact the inventor? twistedrotors.com (http://twistedrotors.com) is still up; but attempts to order through the website fail (both blue and green show as out of stock as soon as you try to order either one), and all of the emails and PMs I've tried sending also go without any response. I even tried contacting the inventor through the inventor's youtube account. I'm not expecting the group buy price; but I still want to order one because I am pretty sure my compression is fading fast; but I want to be sure.

Keep trying; I do know this guy is busier than a Mazda Mechanic de-flooding RX8's. The unit is very nice, I feel very lucky to have gotten one.

Thanks. Been trying that, so far no luck, I keep hoping that eventually it'll soak around the springs and seal and let them release.
Do you manually turn the engine to put a teaspoon of oil in each rotor face?

Have you considered you have a blown engine?

thewird

Do you manually turn the engine to put a teaspoon of oil in each rotor face?

Have you considered you have a blown engine?

thewird

Wird, yeah, did that. I bought this car with 14.5 k miles last summer; put about 1000 miles on it, ran well, got normal mileage, no starting problems at all. Had a Cobb Accessport on it, uninstalled that, car ran fine, no problems. Put the blower on, suddenly it won't start. Been over the blower installation, can't find any problem. Have fuel, fuel pressure, hot battery, new plugs, new coils.

I can't understand why it won't start; the startup map for the Pettit blower is pretty much the same as the stock map. Right now the only thing I can put my finger on is the abysmally low compression readings.

Blown engine, maybe, but I just checked, it didn't have a smile on it's face or any lipstick on the exhaust... :lol2:

By blower, do you mean the pettit supercharger? Maybe you have a vacuum leak somewhere, did you plug the map sensor back in?

thewird

Wird: yes, it is the Pettit. Vacuum leak: hmmmm. Yes, MAF is plugged back in; wouldn't hurt to retrace the vacuum lines and accumulator; might as well go back to square one and repeat the compression testing to be sure I didn't screw that up. Snowing another 5-10 inches here today, should have plenty of time to look it over.

One interesting thing. This car has always smelled like it was running rich at idle. At stoplights, the cabin would just stink of exhaust; I thought there was a manifold leak as the previous owner had installed an OBX system, and his installations skilz were, well, lacking. I replaced with a better manifold, new gaskets, and still had that problem. When trying to start the car now, the garage just fills with smoke and smells pig rich; when I pull the plugs, they're wet. I've even reflashed the stock map on the ECU and tried starting, but get the same problem. If you can think of anything I'm missing, I'm all ears.