where are the top bolts 3 accessible from? i can't find any feasible way to get up there. the bottom three aren't a problem, but the top 3... ?

did you try removing the front tire?

is it necessary?

i thought it was back in there far enough to where the tire wouldn't be an issue.

you have to take the tire off and also take the brakeline support thing off. then you have to remove the motor mount, then you can get to them. the rear most stud is still hard to get to.
olddragger

yeah, you guys got any tips for that one?

i tried every extension known to man and couldn't get it out of there.

is there something i need to remove first for it?

(the mazda spends ANOTHER night up in the air in my garage)

remove the air pump, since you have to anyway, then get it from the top :)

remove the whole thing or just the air injection?

what did you use as a cap?

you trying to do this with the car running? You are just taking the manifold off right? so just take the egr valve, tube, and the stuff in the way of your hand and wrench getting down there temporarily to get to that rear bolt..

oh, alright.

i thought you meant to remove it permanently.

really tight to get it from the top. it it much easier to get it once the passenger front wheel is removed.

also remove the motor mount bracket, then you'll have room.

well, i knew about the motor mount coming out...

but after i get it out, do i need to put it back before i put the headers on, or after? i don't see how to cram everything back in there one way or another.

i got the exhaust manifold completely unbolted this morning, all that's left to undo are the o2 sensors and the motor mount, i guess.

ha ha ha.

After the turbo was pulled from the car, I looked at the manifold area and was thinking about how much empty space and how big that area was in stock form.

i'm having a real hard time figuring out the motor mount.

raise your hand if you used an impact wrench.

i did need an impact gun for that top bolt on the mount. jacking the engine up a lil helps relieve some pressure off the bolts, but they are on really tight.

once you get the mount bracket loose and the rubber mount off it takes some maneuvering and rotating to get the motor mount bracket off. then you can get at the manifold.

you reverse the removal to install. put the header in, maneuver the motor mount bracket in, and install the rubber mount back. you will have to jack the engine up or down slightly to get things in.

thanks! big help!

does anyone know the torque spec for the motor mounts?

bolt that goes through rubber mount: 37.2-51.9 Nm
bolts at the bottom of mount: 43.1-60.8 Nm
nut on top of mount: 43.1-60.8 Nm

thanks for all the hand holding.

this all seems a little bit daunting just to put on a header!

man i wish you could have came down for the install--if you are still having probs--i pm you my phone number--i am home usually after 6pm
olddragger

you trying to do this with the car running?

Classic....

S

^lol

drive down to olddragger's place with the motor mount removed. :uhh:
would be good if you haven't gotten anything out though, im sure he could help.

it is a tough install if it's your first time under there.

for the time being i bolted the stock exhaust back up until this weekend. i talked someone in to letting me come to their shop on a saturday to use their lift.

i could easily do this, i just need air tools which i do not possess (yet).

regardless, that motor mount still seems daunting.

you dont need air tools for this man-- but you are right --dont get outside your comfort level.
do you have the workshop manual? its a free download--it has step by step instructions, if your car is back together drive down this w/e and i will do it for ya
olddragger

true you don't Need air tools. i got off every nut and bolt off without it except one, and that was cuz i had someone try to get at it for me and semi-stripped the nut.

Sounds like fun. Thats why I will let my friend install my header for me lol
Let me ask you this; Is the O2 Sensor seized on most of the time? and you had to buy a new one? or a universal one and cut it lol

what kind of bar did you guys use to get that motor mount off? i used a pretty big 1/2" drive breaker bar, and it wouldn't budge. i even got my dad to come over and give it a shot, but he was unsuccessful as well. i guess i'll go to sears after work today and get a bigger bar and a torque wrench for putting the mount back on.

olddragger, if i don't do it soon i might just wait until i get a catback as well and come on down there so i can get it all on there at once.

which motor mount part?--the one that bolts to the engine or the one that bolts to the chassis? both of mine came off with just a 1/2 inch drive rachet/socket
olddragger

you do have your engine supported with a jack--correct? jack it up an inch or so to take the tension off. it will move a little with the motormounts still on.
olddragger

Sounds like fun. Thats why I will let my friend install my header for me lol
Let me ask you this; Is the O2 Sensor seized on most of the time? and you had to buy a new one? or a universal one and cut it lol

mine was pretty seized. but i reused it for now. will need to buy a new one when that time comes.

UPDATE

i finally broke the motor mounts loose this morning. now i'm just waiting on a friend to come over and help me make sure i've got the engine supported properly before i start taking everything back off again.

in the meantime, i'm going to coat my headers.

then, this evening, i'm taking it to the dragon.

UPDATE #2

HALP

everything is unbolted, but i can't figure out how to maneuver the motor mount out. it's off the rubber damper, but i can't get it to come off of the very top bolt in the block. the exhaust manifold is completely unbolted and loose, the engine is supported by a jack, and can move up and down...

any suggestions? magic words? we tried prying it, moving the motor up and down... it just simply won't come off of there. it's loose... very loose, but it's just that one bolt in my way. it's like we need to pull it out towards us, and towards the front of the car at the same time. am i missing something?

I'M AN ENGINEER FOR CRYING OUT LOUD

pics:

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee148/biblebelts/IMG_3630.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee148/biblebelts/IMG_3633.jpg

(second picture is there because, well, that's a good fucking picture of a motor mount.)

remove the rubber mount first. it'll give you wiggle room.

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee148/biblebelts/IMG_3641.jpg

success! congrats!

i hope to be doing this in a few weeks.

i'm working on a NICE write-up, so let me know when you want it and i'll give you a preview.

i'm working on a NICE write-up, so let me know when you want it and i'll give you a preview.

Nice! I've been waiting on a good write up so I can replace my headers too. :D:

So am I the only person who was able to get my manifold out without removing any motor mounts?

It really isn't that hard. Some bolts are on there tight, but then again I am an Ogre.

Ogre pwns.

i bench 95lbs.

im gonna need to remove the motor mounts.

:lol:

Not mounts (plural), just mount (singular) as in the passenger side one.

Just use a piece of scrap lumper under the oil pan, put some upward pressure on the motor with a jack, and remove the motor mount and the motor mount arm. It can be tricky to get the arm back in.

Or, you can remove the heat shield off the manifold like I did. It comes off with something like 4-6 10mm bolts and frees up a lot of wiggle room.

i see no possible way to remove the manifold without taking off that passenger motor mount bracket and rubber. lol, being Ogre must be nice.

i could kinda see how it would come out if you remove the heatshield. other than that, the air injection would kinda get in the way, too. probably a good amount of bending to be done with that.

for anyone attempting this, i would suggest you go out and get a lot of deep-wells (14mm mainly) and long, long extensions of variable lengths.