Just want to know what brand of oil filter is the most popular among our members on RX8club.

Bosch

Bosch or Purcolator

mazda oem or atkins rotary.

atkins rotary for the win.

beers :beer:

i needa get some better oil filters. hahah...

Used to use K&N only, then I tried couple of WiX, then went to Mobil1, Back to K&N, go to Mobil1 again , and now Im back to OEM, cuz its cheap LOL

oem cause its cheap

ngo; I've got like 6 extra lying around. Remind me to give you one when you come over

awesome! thanks! :)

K&N ftw.

Purolator PureOne for the win.

mobil
olddragger

Purolator Pure One

mobil 1 the bigger one

While I don't have an RX-8, I use Wix exclusively on all my cars. I won't touch anything else. I had some extra Atkins filters lying around but gave them all away.

never hear of Wix. ordered online or at most auto parts stores?

never hear of Wix. ordered online or at most auto parts stores?

Same, where are those found?

Wix?

I buy them at O'reilly's.

never hear of Wix. ordered online or at most auto parts stores?

Same, where are those found?

Wix?

WiX filters are pretty famous cuz they use them in Nascar (I dont like Nascar, but thats where they came from I think)

RG swears by it so ... it shouldnt be bad.

I got couple of them b4, but I stop using them because its a pain for me to get them *gotta drive to a small shop to get them*

I would rather just sit back and relax, click click and order some Mazda OEM or K&N online :)

Even though they are the endorsed filter of NASCAR, they still work equally as well when turning right so don't worry.

You guys know that the K&N, Mobil1 and Purolator Pure One are all the same filter... right???

The only difference is that K&N has a socket welded to the end of theirs and charges $2 more.

But internally they are the same exact filter size, shape and function. They all three use the same synthetic material filter and same nitrile anti-drain back valve, and same metal bypass valve at the back top of the case... All made in the same factory, and on the same production line...

And the Wix... I stay away from the Wix filters (internally the same filter as the Napa, Carquest, Nissan, Honda USA, Chrysler/Mopar V8 filters) as the paper elements tend to not do as good of a job as the spun or synthetic media filters and their metal to metal anti-drainback system doesn't really seal well- so it can let the oil drain back to the pan like the Frams.

And a Bosch is just a cheap Purolater/ K&N/ Mobil1 filter with a paper element and thinner case instead of the high pressure case and synthetic media.

By the way, the Mazda OEM filters made by Tennex and Denso are also synthetic material media filters...

My oil pan on my Honda engine had less buildup in it than the intake manifold did and this was at 183,000 miles. Only a slight layer of varnish and that was it. No gunk whatsoever. I'll respectfully disagree that they don't do a good job as I have personal verified proof they work very well. You can't argue with results. RP oil and Wix filters have both proven to work perfectly. I'd like to know where the proven hard info that the metal to metal doesn't seal well comes from and hopefully it isn't off of that article that every idiot on bitog swears by.

Where do you order Mazda OEM ones online? I've been going to the dealership to pick mine up and they aren't that cheap...

So we all hatin on Fram?

While I don't have an RX-8, I use Wix exclusively on all my cars. I won't touch anything else. I had some extra Atkins filters lying around but gave them all away.

I'm looking for a new filter to use myself. I'm the second owner of my 8 and was thinking of going from 5w20 to 5w30 RP S. Think Wix would be a good choice for me? (Don't mean to hi-jack your post sfredrx8 but I was just wanting to get some other input.

Thanks,
kainis

My oil pan on my Honda engine had less buildup in it than the intake manifold did and this was at 183,000 miles. Only a slight layer of varnish and that was it. No gunk whatsoever. I'll respectfully disagree that they don't do a good job as I have personal verified proof they work very well. You can't argue with results. RP oil and Wix filters have both proven to work perfectly. I'd like to know where the proven hard info that the metal to metal doesn't seal well comes from and hopefully it isn't off of that article that every idiot on bitog swears by.

No, I didn't say they don't do a great job, I am saying that paper element filters generally don't filter as well as synthetic or spun media.

Kinda the same thing as a stock Mazda paper element air filter and compared to a K&N or foam filter.

And I can say the same thing about Toyota engines as you did about your Honda, and I only use Toyota OEM filters in since day one (actually the last Toyota motor I ripped apart had 250,000 on it). But the Denso built OEM filters for Toyota and Mazda both are synthetic media.

As far as metal to metal anti drain back valve, it is strictly my opinion. I have not seen a metal to metal valve that doesn't leak... doesn't mean there isn't one... I just have never seen it.

That is why I don't recommend them. Not because of some Internet test, but because of my own experience.

So (and how many times have I said this and people never do it) go prove it too yourself. Go cut a filter open and look at its construction. Look at the design. Prove it too yourself, not based off some internet test or post in a thread.

Of course you'll probably see exactly what I said, but go prove too yourself.

Where do you order Mazda OEM ones online? I've been going to the dealership to pick mine up and they aren't that cheap...

So we all hatin on Fram?

$5 for OEM: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=273

and Frams do not belong in automotive applications.

...Mazda OEM filters made by Tennex and Denso are also synthetic material media filters...

Do you have part number for synthetic material media filter? I would like to try next time. I know that OEM oil filter may come from different Vendor. Some is made in Europe; some is made in Japan; other may be domestic.

Do you have part number for synthetic material media filter? I would like to try next time. I know that OEM oil filter may come from different Vendor. Some is made in Europe; some is made in Japan; other may be domestic.

USA Mazda dealers get oil filters from Japan (Denso) and USA (Tennex) and Europe. I don't know who makes the Euro one yet, but know it is made in France (and I would suspect to the same standards as USA and Japan- but I am not sure... I need to cut one open from Europe and find out, but my dealer has only been getting the Denso ones lately).

they all have the same P/N, and the revision number is A for the Denso and Tennex filters.

Bosch

Schucks has Bosch filters on sale $2.97 each

Here's the oil and oil filter that I use:
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125644&stc=1&d=1219894200

K&N filter

Eek, I noticed that I took a picture of the Spanish side of the oil filter box...

USA Mazda dealers get oil filters from Japan (Denso) and USA (Tennex) and Europe. I don't know who makes the Euro one yet, but know it is made in France (and I would suspect to the same standards as USA and Japan- but I am not sure... I need to cut one open from Europe and find out, but my dealer has only been getting the Denso ones lately).

they all have the same P/N, and the revision number is A for the Denso and Tennex filters.

if u want I can send you mine, mine is from Mazda Europe, u want a new one or used one ? :)

pm me ur address if u want :)

I've been using a bunch of different oil filters. The cheapest and crappiest one I ever used was manufactured by a company called Carall. My last oil filter was Nippon.

I have a back ground in hydraulic system components including filtration. Regarding a metal to metal seat for the drain back valve, from my experience on what I know about hydraulics, a metal to metal seat is used in high pressure hydraulic applications. A soft seat--nitrile or buna N in this case (as opposed to a better high temp seal in viton)--is used in low pressure hydraulic applications. At 70 PSI, an automotive application is considered a very low pressure hydraulic application. A soft seat is more than adequate and I can see how a metal to metal seat can leak.

As far as filter media goes---Microglass is considered the best and paper is outdated. It's all about cost. Paper is cheaper, microglass is state of the art and more expensive. It's all based upon the micron rating during filtration of particles that a filter will let through. Keep in mind you don't want too good of filtration or too fine of a micron rating or you will end up changing your filter more often.

As far as by pass valves go---If your filter has a by-pass valve, if you don't change the filter and the filter goes into by-pass mode, you are running your system on unfiltered oil. (The alternative would be to have no by pass valve at all but then you'd end up with a clogged filter and consequently a dead engine. In any event, remember to change your filters!)

Surface area was another point raised in the discussion here. Filter medias are pleated because the more pleats increases the surface area. The more more surface area, the better the filtration.

hydraulics 101

Schucks has Bosch filters on sale $2.97 each

Kragen coupon FTW (I picked up 4 of them @ 2.97ea.)

Fram HP-1

No, I didn't say they don't do a great job, I am saying that paper element filters generally don't filter as well as synthetic or spun media.

Kinda the same thing as a stock Mazda paper element air filter and compared to a K&N or foam filter.

And I can say the same thing about Toyota engines as you did about your Honda, and I only use Toyota OEM filters in since day one (actually the last Toyota motor I ripped apart had 250,000 on it). But the Denso built OEM filters for Toyota and Mazda both are synthetic media.

As far as metal to metal anti drain back valve, it is strictly my opinion. I have not seen a metal to metal valve that doesn't leak... doesn't mean there isn't one... I just have never seen it.

That is why I don't recommend them. Not because of some Internet test, but because of my own experience.

So (and how many times have I said this and people never do it) go prove it too yourself. Go cut a filter open and look at its construction. Look at the design. Prove it too yourself, not based off some internet test or post in a thread.

Of course you'll probably see exactly what I said, but go prove too yourself.

I don't need to go cut one open to see that there is absolutely ZERO problems with it. I say that as my filter apparently did it's job so well that after 183,000 miles, there was ZERO sediment or buildup in my oil pan. It's not to say of course that no other oil filter would have given me the same results though and I should hope they would. This is a proven result and no amount of cutting or speculating can change it. I understand it's your opinion and concern. However the result indicates it's not a problem. I'll stick with the facts that I've gathered from the proven result I've had and I'll leave the opinions to others as I do everything else.

Purolator Pure One - Got about 16 of them half price from Amazon.com long ago... enough for the remaining lifetime of this car :)) I ran OEM twice (new and the first change at the dealer). I change the oil myself in 5 minutes without any tools - got the dealer to install a quick drain port for me (15 minutes to drain the oil is extra and used to inspect other car parts or clean the interior). So not worth the driving and waiting time at the dealer (plus they always spilled oil from the filter when changing it - I wrap a paper towel, then a plastic grocery bag around the filter base, before removing it, to trap all the oil leaking).

Fram! I change my oil every 2200-3000 miles no matter what so if any nano size particals appear I will most likey drain it out before any harm happens.

Purolator one, seems to be the best for me every 3k, Castrol gtx 5w30 and rotate the tires...:)