Ok; some people have asked me what is the deal with my sweet 3071R.

Given the issues I had with my exhaust heating; I decided to go ahead and break down - take it all off in order to coat everything + ceramic paint etc...

So here you go - enjoy.


My NEW and IMPROVED working area.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3235/2731439930_bd45dc9bd4.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3019/2731440108_0751944437.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3064/2731442722_0722caff6d.jpg

Step One - Intake and UIM
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3115/2730610483_532656521a.jpg

Step Two - this little guy...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3152/2731441620_1a5d76a416.jpg

The nut broke inside the frame..... so we had to get it off and reweld the nut.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/2731441916_6065872662.jpg

ALL The Drivers side suspension has to go to get at the subframe...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3096/2730610289_90e11f6d3d.jpg

And 1.5 days of work for 11 seconds of welding.


So subframe brace is off; suspension is off; fixed the nut; turbo and manifold is out (we dropped both motor mounts and brackets).

ALL to fix THIS!!!!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/2730607161_c31aa5259b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3039/2730606877_ffd3028aed.jpg
Turbo in its blanket - so far so good.... but wait there is more.


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3113/2730612483_6830266324_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2731445336_25c8a7e1b5_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3207/2731444784_c0bee1e816_o.jpg


The downpipe was the culprit - it had burned through the turbo blanket; aluminum shield and was working on the body of the car.

Stay tuned for pictures of the rebuild - with improvements!

wowie kazowie

The hardest part of all of this; it to keep from fixing / upgrading everything while the car is up... when I started thinking about acid dipping and powedercoating the PPF and control arms... I knew it was time to slow my roll!

Hopefully; I'll have BHR's ignition; SSV valve fixed; tranny wrapped; body ceramic painted and heat shielded; manifold + hot side + downpipe ceramic coated, painted and wrapped. Tranny flushed along with the rear differential. And a new MAF housing to boot.

Plus whatever else I decide to do while I am down there.

Plus the body work from Faille dropping something on my door!

sorry,

if that is ac in the garage.. well. what can i say! :)

but great shots..

cant wait to see how the story unfolds!!

beers :beer:

Don't hate on the AC.... a man has to have standards!!!! LOL

omg,

it was an ac unit!!!!!!

i guess i am half a man as i have no ac in my garage..

please dont play the geography card on me.. as you will lose to me and others. ;)

i would play the kimi card. it is your only hope!!!! :)

but thanks for the update!!!! the heat patterns are amazing!

beers :beer:

nasty. did you ever measure the exhaust temperature?

I have a pyrometer; it has never gotten any hotter than has been seen here on the forums (1500-1600F) is my max.

But the downpipe was touching the car; so all my heat shielding did not do much.

what are you doing to resolve your ssv concern?

Step one is to test the actuator and mechanism by hand (done); then the solenoid (swapped with the Air Pump Solenoid) -

Then the vacuum of the lines (once I get my vacuum pump back).

If all of that is good - then I'll start worrying about the EMS issues.

how the .......... what the............how is this even possible?

It is Called - "Hot Metal Pipe (Cast) against other metal / wrapping (not cast)."

Cast Pipe wins.

so mine is possibly going to end up like this huh?

that's some nasty metal cooking.

Why is your downpipe touching the car frame at the first place?

mine didn't do this. My down pipe and turbo never touched anything....

Could be the mounts; the flange - who knows.

The hot side was clocked correctly - and it cleared everything - only the downpipe got that close to the car.

I'll post more pics tonight so you all can see exactly where it hit (and my repairs); nothing a few raps with a hammer didn't fix.

Taj - like anything; when you drive it around for a few miles upon initial install - take it back home; and check everything out (lather, rinse, repeat).

I had a super small oil leak initially - which I fixed; then I had some other minute issues that I fixed over the next month or two; this one I just got lazy (didn't want to take everything out)/ wanted to be in my new garage before I tackled; so the level of burning is due to it being on there for 200 miles instead of 20 miles.

Oh; I should say it was not actually touching normally (or else I wouldn't have been able to get the turbo blanket on); but it was DAMN close (maybe 2mm from the body of the car).

yeah, the stock heat shield needs to be hammered out of the way.

yeah, the stock heat shield + floor pan area needs to be hammered out of the way.


Fixed... LOL :eyetwitch

kane,

take a close look at you motor mounts.

beers :beer:

This is what was beat on. You can see why.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124523&stc=1&d=1217886733

different angle.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124524&stc=1&d=1217886832

yeah, the stock heat shield needs to be hammered out of the way.

Step 3-1.2 of the GReddy installation instructions.

I can fit my hand completely around the downpipe, so I don't know what's up over there...

nothing beats modifying your vehicle, using a hammer, at 4am, at a friend's house. Right Jeff?

I will use a hammer anywhere, anytime!

this is why I don't let you install body panels

this is why I don't let you install body panels

Actually, I have a set of special hammers for that with curves and light heads.

well, for me I used a saw for the mazsport turbo, and it didn't melth anything....mostly cus you have to cut everything that it might be touching to fit it in the first place...........

and still, I checked, as Kane suggests, and the O2 sensor wires, which I heat shielded, 3 times, and wrapped with Silicone heat wrap, and then another time with Aluminium Cool-blanket thing you buy from Super autobacs.......has ben meted clean off

Woot.........I hope the MAP INT-X don't need that -_-

Kane.... you didnt mention trying to weld the nut back in place with aluminum wire :yelrotflm

Note to self: dont break nuts that are welded into the subframe.
Note #2: Dont have Army divers attempt to weld subframe nuts back in place

:p:

btw..... between this experience, and my previous ones... i am VERY thankful to learn that it is in my best interest to put antiseize on EVERYTHING!!!!

omg,

it was an ac unit!!!!!!

i guess i am half a man as i have no ac in my garage..

please dont play the geography card on me.. as you will lose to me and others. ;)

i would play the kimi card. it is your only hope!!!! :)

but thanks for the update!!!! the heat patterns are amazing!

beers :beer:

man that AC was BALLER!! it was very uncomfortable hot/muggy outside this weekend. in the garage, it was a cool 74 degrees. :)

+1 on Baller AC; +2 on moving stuff out of the way; mine looks the same as yours MYSQL - see that red scorch mark on your pic - mine was the same; but worse.


Paul, the Aluminum Wire thing was funny 12 Rum and Cokes into the day...

What you see in that pic is approx 2 years of greddy turbo usage. The metal was never banged out of the way. I had no issues, the metal just had a bronze color to it.

The photos above show Jeff banging out the metal to make room for the 3071R.

Yeah, my turbine outlet looked about the same position as yours but I did not bang the heat shielding out enough; nor the body itself. A mistake I will not be making again.

I can fit my hand completely around the downpipe, so I don't know what's up over there...

I am bigger than you; would be my guess...:dunno:

I am bigger than you; would be my guess...:dunno:

Yeah, but can get my entire hand around it.
You make it sound like yours was actually touching with no clearance at all.

It is what it is.

Here are the pics from late Sunday night.

The infamous "nut of doom" - re-welded; thanks Mazda for that little adventure.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3176/2734433050_016c41b1e4.jpg

My turbo blanket - and downpipe. See the area in question?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3234/2733603823_c0784e294c_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/2733603255_0e84a75f13_o.jpg

New underbody - with 2000F paint.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3038/2734433402_3af5996d72_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3221/2733603643_39d508dbb2_o.jpg

I just need a clean surface for the heat shield to be emplaced soon.



Thoughts on wrapping vs ceramic coating: there is no place in HI to ceramic coat; so is it worth the $500 plus shipping to ceramic coat my stuff - or sandblast + 2000F paint plus manifold wrap and turbo blanket (<$100). Discuss...

save the money and buy a second AC for the garage.

Anyone else?

I am leaning toward NOT ceramic coating it; but I din't want to take it all out again.

Anyone else?

I am leaning toward NOT ceramic coating it; but I din't want to take it all out again.

no answer from the phone call.... i sent email as well.... i'll call you later to discuss...

btw the link is http://www.allamericanpowdercoating.com/

no answer from the phone call.... i sent email as well.... i'll call you later to discuss...

btw the link is http://www.allamericanpowdercoating.com/

K - thanks bud.

To me it looks like your DP pinched the blanket between the pipe and the floor. 90% of the heat blocking properties of most insullants tend to be from the encapsulated air. If the material is compressed, it conducts heat at a much higher rate. So, clearancing the pipe and using something like a replaced blanket/header wrap might do the trick. I couldn't really tell you from experience though - I have ceramic coating.

I think you should be fine without ceramic coating as long as there's enough clearance between the turbo/downpipe and the underbody of the car.
I have my MM turbo for 4k miles now and i dont see any under body cooking like yours

Well; good to know - I realize ceramic is the way to go; but the fact that I can't get it locally makes me think for me; it is not worth it (time and $$$).

Maxxdamigz - I think you are right; plus with the alum heat shield and the body of the car being so close didn't help me any. But I fixed that with some fine tuning.

"I need to fine tune this.... hand me a hammer would ya?" - :lol:

At this point I am just hoping 2000F Heat shield on the body + mani-wrap and turbo blanket can be AS effective as ceramic; and if so I can get my car back together...

Got some info from Jet-Hot; they are saying surface temps go down by more than 50% - that is a lot.

ARRGHHHH, I am sooo torn right now; I am 50/50 on sending it in (quote for$ 451.00)

Includes turbo hot side, manifold and downpipe - takes 2-3 weeks vs. wrapping it myself for free and I can have the car running by the weekend.

I would get it ceramic coated--you will never have to worry about whether your floor is burning up again. I think it's worth the wait for a 50% reduction in heat.

1 for ceramic/ 1 for wrapping; maybe time for a poll - LOLZ.


I'll decide in the AM.

no jet coat dealer in hawaii?

beers:beer:

nope swoope.

nope swoope.

well,

the weather is nice, and you have a climate controlled garage.. ;)



jealous, yes i am.. :)


beers :beer:

1 for ceramic/ 1 for wrapping; maybe time for a poll - LOLZ.


I'll decide in the AM.
:lol: polls ftw!

Kane!

mine is starting to melt it too!!

isn't it wonderful?

Wrap.

money, pls, and I still have to save up for you to tune my car Jeff.........and since you won't come out here, and charge me 1/10th of my kidney, and I have to go to school, etc etc

yes, I am broke, thanks to t3h turbozzzz

but yea........

I'd vote wrap now and coat if the issue ever comes back

Although, I can see wanting to wrap it (fast, easy and cheap!)...If the money is there, coat it. The wrap just doesn't last as long and you'll be replacing it again in about a year or so.

What's up with some of you guys bagging on the "E" turbo kit, lol and this kit needs body modifications...ha, ha, you guys are too much.

wrap it, no sense in coating at this point.

What's up with some of you guys bagging on the "E" turbo kit, lol and this kit needs body modifications...ha, ha, you guys are too much.

Why are you bringing this crap into my thread?

I never said squat about the Esmeril Kit; and I have 0 exp with it. As for the 3071R Stuff; yeah you have to bang on your car with a hammer; and IMO it could have come with some more heat wrap / turbo blanket. But this is not a plug and play kit - it is a turbo swap.


Since you brought it up ; and no this is not directed at you GTAW.

<Begin Rant>
What's up with everyone being cry babies about having to do ANY extra work on a car they just totally changed the VE on with FI????

If your car is in 200,075 pieces in your garage; do you think there might be a SMALL chance you will have to trouble shoot your car???? Hmmm?
<End Rant>

Of course you are right Kane . It stands to reason .
It is common sense that a turbo will generate a lot of heat and that this is likely to create some issues .

the turbo isn't generating heat. It's making use of the kinetic energy. If it's touching the frame of the car, well, you can expect the same thing to happen as if the frame was touching the exhaust manifold. Hot is hot.

wow - that was quick
OK - I stand corrected . There is no additional heat generated - Just a lot of the heat that is already there is concentrated in a small area . That better ?

it's not anymore concentrated than before. The exhaust had to travel down a pipe in stock form. Now it does the same, but there's a "fan blade" that is in the way, spinning on ball bearings, and has coolant and oil flowing through it.

Is the exhaust air post turbo any cooler than say just before the cat on a N/A car ?

I'll have to let someone else answer that. The cat gets pretty damn hot. Especially if it's clogged. I don't know my turbo temps since I have no sensors on it.

Is the exhaust air post turbo any cooler than say just before the cat on a N/A car ?

Yes. Considerably.

My point was that an aftermarket turbo is likely to have heat related issues like those being delt with in this thread. You may remember we have had this argument before mysql .
Factory fitted turbos tend to have less issues because they put a lot of engineering into preventing them .

Yes. Considerably.

thankyou - so where did the heat go ?

yes I know a lot goes into making the tubine spin and some to the cooling fluids . But you have a LOT more surface area with a turbo and maniflod/downpipe than you ever had with just a manifold .

My point was that an aftermarket turbo is likely to have heat related issues like those being delt with in this thread. You may remember we have had this argument before mysql .
Factory fitted turbos tend to have less issues because they put a lot of engineering into preventing them .

wtf? Cooling was a huge issue with the rx-7. We don't have nearly the problems with the 8. In fact, have you seen the vacuum tubes for the seq turbo setup on a stock 3rd gen? They call it the rats nest. On my car I have basically 2 vacuum tubes. One to route the turbo to the wastegate, and one to the bov. If you want gauges or boost controllers, you add a T to one of these lines and you're done.

I had no heat issues with the greddy setup, and I had none with the 3071R. In fact, besides this thread, how many others can you point out that had issues? Compare that with the install base of the greddy kit to see how likely you are to experience such problem.

I said "tend to " , it was a generalisation .

thankyou - so where did the heat go ?

Kinetic energy.

yup , a lot goes to kinetic , some goes to cooling fluids , the rest is dissapated over the massively increased surface area from the turbo and associated piping ...

I said "tend to " , it was a generalisation .

That's the problem with generalizations. You could say the RX-8 engine generally lasts 25k miles. If you go turbo, it only lasts 5k miles, because you saw it happen to one person.

However, this doesn't reflect the reality of the situation. You said LIKELY. And therefor your premise is false. There is no tendency here. Not even close to it.

I don't want to argue with you on turbo vs SC. If you want 180 torque, feel free to get a SC. It's still better than stock. Just don't knock the turbo for ridiculous stuff anymore.

yup , a lot goes to kinetic , some goes to cooling fluids , the rest is dissapated over the massively increased surface area from the turbo and associated piping ...

Very little goes to cooling fluids (the flow is very small).
The surface area of the turbo system is actually 4 sq/in less than the OE exhaust manifold assembly.
So, you are losing dissipative surface, not gaining it.
Try again.

Another wtf. The exhaust goes into the turbo manifold, then the turbo, then the downpipe. Where is the massively increase surface area?! On a stock setup it goes down the same route, and with basically the same surface area.

um - wow . Same surface area ???

And this has nothing to do with SC - why did you even mention SC - wtf ?

um - wow . Same surface area ???

And this has nothing to do with SC - why did you even mention SC - wtf ?

Because I've literally spent years arguing with you on this topic, and all through it you've been steadfast on the idea that a turbo is "hot" and therefor not good. That has been your false mantra of SC > TC. Never mind that the whole point of the engine is to burn fuel and it becomes a heat generator more than anything else. Making use of the heat is not bad, in fact it's ideal.

I don't know what to say to convince you otherwise.

The surface area of the turbo system is actually 4 sq/in less than the OE exhaust manifold assembly.
.

as hard to believe as I find it - I would be silly to argue this point with you .

This is taking into account the turbo and all the associated pipework back as far as the flange that connects to the midpipe and comparing it to a stock manifold - yes ?

Because I've literally spent years arguing with you on this topic, and all through it you've been steadfast on the idea that a turbo is "hot" and therefor not good. That has been your false mantra of SC > TC. Never mind that the whole point of the engine is to burn fuel and it becomes a heat generator more than anything else. Making use of the heat is not bad, in fact it's ideal.

I don't know what to say to convince you otherwise.

you guys actually convinced me of that ages ago .
All I was pointing out here is that heat is an issue - and you guys jump all over me .

Sorry for this threadjack Kane

I look at it this way:
say for simplicity sake that you are running enough boost to increase the mass flow of your engine both in air and fuel to 150% of N/A. There is a natural temperature achieved ideally within the engine. This has to do with the energy released in combustion and the energy absorbed by all the components (including inert) that drives the expanding force. So, now you have 150% of the energy released and 150% of the mass to absorb it. However, there is also a fix amount of coolant flow that is still at the N/A mass rate and an engine system/manifold/other components that are also of their original N/A mass. So the amount of heat syphoned off to those systems doesn't go up much. As the internal temperature rises, the heat transfer rises (thus placing greater demand on cooling systems) but that at it's root is driven by higher achieved temperatures, heat transfer being driven by temperature difference. So, now you have 150% of a mass flow exiting at the engine at a somewhat elevated temperature compared to N/A and you are going to put it through a curly-q manifold to turbine to down pipe path. By increasing the temperature some and the path some, you have increased the amount of heat transfered from the exhaust while it is in the engine bay. The increase in mass flow rate probably exceeds these factors but I couldn't rightly say. If you have 150% of the mass flow, you have 150% of the raw heat energy of before and the surroundings will have to absorbe 150% of the heat before to achieve the same exhaust cooling. So, if the exhaust cools 400 degrees N/A, it will put more heat into the environment in this scenario by only cooling 300 degrees. The larger sustained temperature difference will also drive up the heat transfer speed.

A lot of this can be understood just by comparing getting hit by a small burning campfire ember and trying to grab one of the logs from the fire. Mass can make a significant difference. Some of this is altered by running richer boosted mixtures which can provide greater system mass without increasing the amount of combustion that occurs. Water injection is the same principal.

It makes perfect sense to me that the heat damage from a turbo system could be significant in small confines even at high design quality standards. It's pretty much a direct biproduct of trying to burn more fuel to produce more power.

you guys actually convinced me of that ages ago .
All I was pointing out here is that heat is an issue - and you guys jump all over me .


ah, I see. Well Kane might have had issues, but I don't think it's an issue as it appears to be a rare event.

Also I think you're confusing all the intake piping from the turbo into the intake manifold with the exhaust part of the turbo system. What's cool is that even if you're not in boost, just the little bit of spinning the turbo does while cruising is enough to raise the intake manifold pressure and you will feel power increase on light throttle. That's one of the reasons why I recirculated my synchronic BOV. When it was not in boost, that air was being vented instead of directed into the manifold. So I lost that "edge" till there was enough boost to seal the BOV. This effect is pronounced with the 3071R. With the GReddy turbo, not so much, as it seems to be either "off" or "on".

as hard to believe as I find it - I would be silly to argue this point with you .

This is taking into account the turbo and all the associated pipework back as far as the flange that connects to the midpipe and comparing it to a stock manifold - yes ?

What "pipework"?

The turbo, manifold and downpipe physically occupy the exact same space as the OE manifold, only it has less surface area.
Have you even looked at the two?

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/misc/manifold_comparo.jpg


It makes perfect sense to me that the heat damage from a turbo system could be significant in small confines even at high design quality standards. It's pretty much a direct biproduct of trying to burn more fuel to produce more power.

A typical street-driven turbo-modified car spends a very small fraction of its time on the road producing more power than a non-modified version.

I should think that having a small surface area manifold is a bonus as you would rather keep the exhaust energy (heat) confined within the pipes so that you can put it to work in the turbine which is perfectly suited for the temperature. That's the purpose of heat wrap, turbo blankets, ceramic coating with the added bonus that more heat in the exhaust is less heat in your passenger footwell. I have a Mazsport Tubular manifold and if it wasn't ceramic coated, I should think the amount of heat given off by the high surface area would be quite substantial.


A typical street-driven turbo-modified car spends a very small fraction of its time on the road producing more power than a non-modified version.


I should hope so. If I were to maintain boost for as long as 20 seconds, I'd be going quite fast. Kane's issues seems to be a resultant of proximity rather than persistent excessive temperatures.

OK - add the turbo in there and I can see it's about the same SA . Got me .

Max's posts are relavent to my point about heat though - yes ?

OK - add the turbo in there and I can see it's about the same SA . Got me .

Max's posts are relavent to my point about heat though - yes ?

No. His points apply to all forms of FI.

And the turbo only adds 30 sq/in to the total assembly, which still comes in under the total surface area of just the OE piece.

the difference being that with a normal manifold you can easily contain and direct the heat away from the immediate area - yes ?

Can you give me that small consolation MM - heh

A supercharger increases the mass flow rate of the system along the same lines of the turbo. You could claim that the turbo's longer exhaust path is a contributor to heat problems, but if MM's assembly actually has less SA than the stock piece, then the area of heat rejection actually favors turbo over SC with stock manifold. It doesn't really matter though. I should think that once the exhaust has exited the engine and you aren't worrying about catalytic converter longevity, exhaust heat should be easily dealt with.

When you think about it, nitrous can be the worst heat offender as it increases the amount of fuel burned disproportionately to the system mass.

the difference being that with a normal manifold you can easily contain and direct the heat away from the immediate area - yes ?

Can you give me that small consolation MM - heh

No. The OE manifold has plenty of heat shielding and its still too hot to touch.
The heat shielding I use on my system is so good I can shove my hand in there after a dyno pull and not get burned.

The OE design has melted quite a few right-hand motor mounts, hence the TSB and revised part.
My RH motor mount doesn't even get warm.

There are no significant hurdles in shielding either - Mazda just chose not to do it since they were only concerned with having enough heat retained to light-off the CAT.

Kane's issue was once of direct conduction, not radiation or convection.

I used to ask my daughter "do you know any other words other than NO " to which she would always answer - "NO"

sorry - don't know how that is even remotely relevant .... heh

Well, ask a question to which I can respond affirmatively!

well, I think all turbo systems are gonna be very hot, even if it's MM's shit happens, to all systems and stuff

BHR's Radiator leaks (just talked to a guy yesterday that bought it and said it leaked) and the greddy upgrade burned a hole, lulz

however, Kane's problem does seem more like direct conduction, since the hole it burned through was pretty small and objective

mine however.........woot......need heat shielding

Well, ask a question to which I can respond affirmatively!

Ok i'll try - is there a possibility that when you fit an aftermarket turbo to your 8 that there will be heat related issues ?

Ok i'll try - is there a possibility that when you fit an aftermarket turbo to your 8 that there will be heat related issues ?

Yes, if you have a poorly planned system.

read the thread title LOL

Sorry , that was just a jk - I know your system is well planned .

You guys crack me up.

Go back and look at the pic of the downpipe and turbo blanket; I think we can all CLEARLY define my heat related issue - and that was one of direct conduction. The re-assembly phase drama comes from my desire to fix it as best I can "while I got the car up" without spending a billion dollars. And at this point; I think a high quality wrapping procedure should get me by until late 2009 or so - in which case I'll be back in the mainland anyway.

The question becomes what do I define as a high quality wrapping and shielding job; you'll see soon enough.

You guys crack me up.


We do our best



Go back and look at the pic of the downpipe and turbo blanket; I think we can all CLEARLY define my heat related issue - and that was one of direct conduction. The re-assembly phase drama comes from my desire to fix it as best I can "while I got the car up" without spending a billion dollars. And at this point; I think a high quality wrapping procedure should get me by until late 2009 or so - in which case I'll be back in the mainland anyway.

The question becomes what do I define as a high quality wrapping and shielding job; you'll see soon enough.


From the discussion we have just had it would seem all you have to do is get the offending pipe far enough away from the body add a little shielding and you will be sweet .

I would agree; I am just going to over-engineer it a bit for the sake of thoroughness.

Ok, wrapping the downpipe; take 1

Step one - sand, clean and dry.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3178/2740858604_b91c817252_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3234/2740022461_86dec85063_o.jpg

Step two - paint with 2000F ceramic paint to ensure rusting is controlled.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3242/2740022737_fa0cd00f2c_o.jpg

Step three - wrap with ceramic header wrap.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3193/2740022993_a716b992c1_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3025/2740023089_3bc1f62327_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/2740859546_73ba31fa96_o.jpg

Step four - seal header wrap to prevent moisture seeping in.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3166/2740023377_a149ae3472_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3268/2740023609_979008920e_o.jpg

i see a cocktail!!!

and we almost drink the same thing.. :)

i have learned a lot in this thread. thanks to all..

beers :beer:

Always! Rum and Diet Coke is a required tool

Always! Rum and Diet Coke is a required tool

sorry i was wrong. identical..

name the rum, daily vs if you could buy the good stuff by the case.

how do you buy your diet coke?

btw, i figure this thread has been jacked enough..

it is intermission. :lol:

beers :beer:

Step three - wrap with ceramic header wrap.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3193/2740022993_a716b992c1_o.jpg





FAIL!


You know you are supposed to wet that stuff before you wrap it so that it stretches and lays smoothly, right?

FAIL!


You know you are supposed to wet that stuff before you wrap it so that it stretches and lays smoothly, right?

I thought about it; but I didn't want to trap moisture in the fiber.

I have wrapped a few cars & bikes before - and haven't had any problems to date - so we'll see.

sorry i was wrong. identical..

name the rum, daily vs if you could buy the good stuff by the case.

how do you buy your diet coke?

btw, i figure this thread has been jacked enough..

it is intermission. :lol:

beers :beer:

Rum by the quart - and coke by the case; like any red blooded American.

I thought about it; but I didn't want to trap moisture in the fiber.

I have wrapped a few cars & bikes before - and haven't had any problems to date - so we'll see.

Its not problems, it just doesn't work or look as good.
If you get it good and wet, it lays really tight and flat and each overlap looks like a little "step".
Its pretty and will stick to the compound curves with 1/2 as much wrap.
If you wrap it dry, you need to layer it more and it get bunchy and sags once it is hot.
Any moisture in the wrap is gone the first time it comes up to temperature and it helps to get rid of that smell more quickly.
If you use distilled water, it will go out on first start-up without pitting or rusting.

Its not problems, it just doesn't work or look as good.
If you get it good and wet, it lays really tight and flat and each overlap looks like a little "step".
Its pretty and will stick to the compound curves with 1/2 as much wrap.
If you wrap it dry, you need to layer it more and it get bunchy and sags once it is hot.
Any moisture in the wrap is gone the first time it comes up to temperature and it helps to get rid of that smell more quickly.
If you use distilled water, it will go out on first start-up without pitting or rusting.

Good points. I'll try it that way on the manifold.

As for looks; no one is going to ever see it; but the advantage of a tighter wrap has me interested.

How long should you dry the fiber out prior to paint to seal it in?

How long should you dry the fiber out prior to paint to seal it in?

Forever.
Or, you can do what I do and hit it with a MAP gas torch.

Forever.
Or, you can do what I do and hit it with a MAP gas torch.

Oven; here I come.


Someone distract my wife.

Oooh, that's gonna stink!

Meh, yeah she might kill me.

I'll grab a torch from work if I can find one.

ovens should be off limits. Too many toxic chemicals that will stay in there and then go into your food

You guys are such killjoys....

:lol:

I vote Oven. Someone's gotta be the voice of reason around here. :FIREdevil

I am not sure what food Kimi cooks in there; as long as I can still get Mexican food; all should be ok right? :rofl:

Some brain cancers can give you psychic powers and crap, right? So go for it!

You know, not everyone is BORN with Jedi Powers...

I've been kicking around the idea of getting an old oven from a yard somewhere to put outside just for things like this and powder-coating.

do it!

if i had the space, i'd do it. you can buy a used oven for cheap.

I've been kicking around the idea of getting an old oven from a yard somewhere to put outside just for things like this and powder-coating.

oh boy... i must resist the redneck jokes temptation :)

not that i can say shit w/o being the pot.

Its not like I'd park it in the front yard!

Its not like I'd park it in the front yard!

it always starts that way.... :eyetwitch

Manifold is done;

Jeff's water idea worked pretty good; esp for the manifold with all of its twists and turns.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124712&stc=1&d=1218308680

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124714&stc=1&d=1218308680

Yeah, wrapping the GReddy manifold isn't a whole lot of fun. Wetting the wrap really helps.

Now for the car side of things;

2000F Shielding; Aluminum Tape and high temp silicone FTW!

These were as far away as I could get; sorry.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124734&stc=1&d=1218394611
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124735&stc=1&d=1218394611
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124736&stc=1&d=1218394611

Turbo is in; I'll get pics of the turbo with blanket etc; as we finish it.

looks really nice~!

I just threw some DynaMat Extreme in my passenger foot well a few days ago:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q287/chickenwafer/CIMG1512.jpg

Pretty cheap and it reduces heat rather well

Finished Product -

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124756&stc=1&d=1218438674
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124757&stc=1&d=1218438674
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124758&stc=1&d=1218438674


Downpipe on
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124759&stc=1&d=1218438674

Cute Bankie...
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124760&stc=1&d=1218438674

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124761&stc=1&d=1218438840
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124762&stc=1&d=1218438840

all the turbo stuff is done.

even after the hammer there isnt too much room between the down pipe and the floorpan. maybe a 1/4 inch...

i'm wondering if it has something to do with revised motor mounts possibly? Kanes car is an 07... mine is an 06, we'll see about that in about 6 months

Suspension is back on too - woot!

Stupid frame nut.

true^^ that sucked....

Welp, after a weekend of not too much car work; I got 85% of the car together; only to be thwarted by an allen screw that fell out of the BOV - try to get a new one tomorrow.

No real major innovtions this time around; new couplers (5 ply) - they make things more fun to put on... he he he.

I'll get some pics soon.

almost....there....

whoa, blue manifold and downpipe. that's pretty baller. good job kane!

Ok folks; I have been having a hard time getting pics inside the car of what I have been doing; they are just too close to come out well.

Here are a few from tonight; I have the car 90% back together - and will publish a full list of my findings this weekend. Most of my changes are minor detail stuff; as the point was reliability / stop the melting of my car; and a lot of my "upgrades" are $5 items and a few minutes of time; but multiply that by 100 and it adds up to a nice car IMO.

Attention to Detail and all that jazz.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3177/2780579616_3b85dfde99_o.jpg
This is the best look anyone but me has had of my engine bay; once I dress it up - you can't see much of anything.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3112/2780580208_ee2e5ba475_o.jpg
Example of a hidden detail; this is the boost gauge sending unit; neatly tucked away on the drivers side strut tower; if you didn't know it was not OEM - then you would never see it. I'll be getting different hardware soon.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3086/2780580010_be75a17693_o.jpg
A few people have asked; this is my $25 oil catch can setup; from Home Depot....

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3042/2780579824_7e1f2214fe_o.jpg
New 5 ply couplers; and you can see BHR's sweet rad in there too. Did I have to powdercoat the pipes here????? HELL YEAH

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3199/2779722559_f87a777d40_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3042/2780579530_c609897ec2_o.jpg
Stealth Install - don't want to detract from the styling of the 8 with my loud ass; "LOOK AT ME I HAVE A FMIC" type thing.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3164/2780579726_679ed74bac_o.jpg
Ghetto???? Hell Yeah; but I don't have all the items to make my MAF housing yet; and I am not paying AEM $400 for a 12 inch pipe.

As you can see; there are still some parts I am waiting for; plus some fab work to be done - but let's face it; the car will NEVER be done.

Stay tuned - got one of these laying around.... and it might make its way into a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3093/2780580106_d6bbc49866_o.jpg


Other than the wrapping and heat shielding; the subframe work was a PITA; and now my BOV has been re-hardwared with lock tight; so no more missing bolts I hope.

Great pictures and write up man. Must be awesome having that ride in Hawaii...

Thx; doing tranny fluid tonight; and then I am gonna start her up I think.

Do a leak check etc; and then post some of my findings as far as heat / boost response change etc.

It has started; idles like a champ - 20 in of vacuum; fuel trims are jacked (maf housing)... no apparent leaks though it is too early to tell; so I'll call it no catastrophic leaks.

Tommorow I will buton it up and actually put a few miles on it; all that wrap smokes like a SOB though..... heh.

damn Kane, that's sexy!! Love the black powdercoating, that's definitely the route I'll be taking.

What is funny; is it is really hard for me to get black silicone couplers to go with my black pipes...... takes like 2 months to get them here sometimes.

Damn, 2 months? that's crazy.

Yeah, apparently no one wants black silicone...

you should get Ray to stock up on that stuff for the eventual "BLACK" halo Racing Kit. :)

^^^ Nice; here is a marketing idea for ya Ray.

kane: when do I get to go for a ride in this beast?

Fly Over; we'll throw a party yo!

don't tempt me. I've never been to Hawaii and I'm DYING to go.

thanks, for the pictures Kane!

Well; I got sent away - so no more findings; when I get back I will take it in for an alignment (since I totally tore the suspension out); finish the interior heat shielding; and get some more data.

I should have Ray's coils by then too.


Bare metal on the floorboard after 20 minutes of idle; was about 150F; I could touch it; but my EGT was only about 800F. Not sure what that will mean once I am moving vs sitting and get my EGT's up to 1500 or so. As long as it does not damage my car then it should be fine. I think if I can keep it below 230F then I will be ok.

As long as you can't cook pizza on your passenger floor it should be good :)

Actually; cooking pizza in my car is kind of appealing...

mmm pizza....that's it...I'm ordering one now online :lol:

edit: ordered!

serious? pizza or turbo?

lol, i got a turbo already.....but yeah i ordered a pizza online :lol2:

Werd - pizza is good; melting metal is bad though.

yes, yes it is

Nice. I hope I get mine soon, it should've been shipped Friday...I hope.

Cool; do this stuff before you put it in; trust me once you get it installed; you are NEVER going to want to take it out.

If you can ceramic coat it; then so much the better.

Cool; do this stuff before you put it in; trust me once you get it installed; you are NEVER going to want to take it out.

If you can ceramic coat it; then so much the better.

+1 billion on that

Not to mention once you get it in you'll be wanting to drive it all the time!

Ok folks - I am back home and have gotten a few days of driving under my belt. No apparent leaks (yeah!).

The bare metal of the floorboard is hot to the touch; but not super hot with exhaust in excess of 1000F - and the heat is not isolated; it is spread out over the entire blanket area - so that seems good.

My only issue now is the idle with the AC on is crap (hunts badly) - with it off the idle is buttery smooth. I know my MAF housing sucks... but it seems wierd that the AC has such a huge role. I also have some rich spots on deceleration.

Any thoughts?

it will take a day or two for it to settle down..

and this will help. had to go old school...

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=66922&page=1&pp=15&styleid=8

post #8. do it..

beers :beer:

Thanks Swoope - I don't have a warm AC problem... just a funky idle when the AC is loading the motor - so we'll see if it goes away in the next few days.

So Kane, what kind of paint did you use for your FMIC? I like the whole "stealth approach"

High temp black aluminum paint (like the kind used for aluminum calipers - the trick is to LIGHTLY LIGHTLY LIGHTLY LIGHTLY apply it to the intercooler; just enough to make it go away in the bumper. ANY paint will take away the thermal eff. of the piece; and a LOT of paint will really hurt you.

what about putting the turbo in the rear like on some of the vetts i have seen. i think that would cut down on the problems a little bit?

piping becomes tricky with a rear mount turbo.

i mean from wht i have seen alot of people are running into alot of heat problems all the heat shields and such. by taking out that huge f@#king muffler and mounting it in tht area..... i guess i wont know till i try it.... post it up soon i guess

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