maxxdamigz
07-29-2008, 02:40 PM
Vehicle - 2005 Rx-8 6spd 35,000 miles: Mazsport Type 1 Turbo Kit, HKS Twin Power Ignition Amplifier, RP Supercat (note: catalyst may no longer be with us), RB Catback
Shop: Install - Jim at JPR Imports in Blackwood, NJ.
Tune - Rob at Maximum AutoSound, Security, & Performance in Garwood, NJ.
Dyno - Dynapack Hydraulic Brake Dyno - This dyno, similar to a mustang dyno in concept (hydraulic brake), should read about 8% lower than a dynojet but is very repeatable making it good for tuning according to Rob.
Results -
302.8 hp @ 6200ish RPM
267.9 ft-lbs @ 5450ish RPM
20.67 peak recorded highway MPG post turbo install.
11.56 psi peak boost
12.5 to 10.8 afr (12 to 12.5 up to 6500 and then it dips under 11 at 7000 and above)
I have Rob from Maximum AutoSound Security & Performance emailing me the plots. I have them on paper. The only hold up was he never set up his dyno PC with his shop network and/or some software to be able to provide electronic copies other than to removable storage (which I did not have on me at the time of pickup). I could scan the plots I guess. The car is running off the interceptor-x and currently in map mode. I only had time to get the car in the shop for 1 day. When I drop the car off for a full top to bottom tune, it'll be swapped to matrix mode to fix some of my RPM specific issues (lean in vacuum at 3000 rpms and rich idle/top end).
Personal thoughts:
1. Assuming the 8% difference is roughly correct and that the SAE J1349 correction (it was maybe 75-80 degrees in the shop so the correction should be minimal), the car was up against the ~325ish stock coil hp barrier (depending on reference, 8% takes it to 327-329 whp).
2. By 7000 rpms, my torque curve is starting to plummet. I'm hoping when someone looks at the chart they recognize it as simply overwhelming the stock coils with strength of spark required at an increasing frequency. Are the coils also heating up during the run? If the car was taken to peak tq and held, would the coils heat up and fade? Don't know. To give you an idea of the torque: 5500 - 267, 6000 - 262, 6500 - 245, 7000 - 215, 7500 - 175, 8000 - 135, 8500 - 55. At 8500, I think the throttle is already closing to end the run, but the torque curve dive is very pronounced and the peak HP is very early.
3. The car sounds great through 7000 rpms. Up top, though, the car has a choppy texture. If I were to guess, I'd say the ignition is failing and a lot of the fuel is burning or continuing to burn in the exhaust manifold. The noise is similar to when I downshift the car for engine braking and the exhaust pops a little but at a much higher frequency.
4. My boost peaks at 11.56 psi. By 7000 rpms, it's making less than 10 psi and maybe down to 9 at 8000 rpms. Is this because of the weak ignition or a waste gate that is more open than it should be? I think the mazsport kit ships with a 7 lb spring but I do have a greddy ebc in there. Not sure, but for now I'm not worried about losing a couple PSI.
So, my to-do list right now is:
1. Install Mazmart water pump to combat cavitation. I got my coolant level sensor to go on twice now. It only came on for a short period of time during heavy driving. I checked my coolant level, and it's full. I'm hoping this is caused by pump cavitation caused by a combination of higher than normal coolant temps (caused by the additional power) and poor pump design rather than a deeper cooling system issue. I watch my coolant temp fairly diligently.
2. Order/install Mazsport cooling mod. It looks like my stock coolant temp sensor has not fully survived the turbo process. It reads about 20 degrees low. I have not validated this with a laser pyrometer, but initially I was not able to get the radiator fans to come on. The fans currently have a jumper installed so that I can run them constantly should I need to. It's a stop gap solution for now. With the fans on, I don't have heat issues other than as discussed above.
3. Order/install coils. I shot off a PM to Charles R Hill last night. I then read the remainder of the thread on the coil setups BHR is looking to run. I'm not keen on having red wires (my entire exterior and engine bay being black, silver, and blue) but maybe we can work something out.
4. Full tune in matrix mode after the coils are in. I'm not looking to really set any records, but I would like to see my car be able to maintain its torque curve and handle its own cooling.
(I went to scan the plots. The boost chart plot out nice and black. On the hp/tq graph, the baseline run is almost invisible and the final tune run is actually invisible. Damn you light green/blue lines.)
If anyone has input on what overloading the stock coils sounds like/looks like on a dynoplot, chime in. The coils seems to function fine as my car runs well and I get good gas mileage relative to before. The precipitous drop in TQ (and subsequent low HP development) and rough tone at high RPMS (as experienced on the dyno - I don't run the car much past 7000 right now) are my 2 symptoms. Confirmation would be nice, but I'm replacing the coils anyway. I have 2600 miles in 4 weeks post turbo with a ton of traveling highway miles and some hard driving. So far, so good.
Warning! The below dyno sheet looks like hell!! It is a hand traced paper plot scanned and emailed as a tif which was then reduced in size and color content in MSPaint and exported to JPeg. It's the best I can do for now. The hand traced lines are the car as it sits now. The ghost lines are the base map I rode in with at a lower boost setting, more conservative timing, and too much fuel. I didn't trace the base line as it's entirely unimportant at this point in time and I am lazy. The grid lines are for the torque Y axis. Note that the HP tic marks do not line up with the torque grid lines.
http://www.rx8club.com/vbgarage.php?do=getimage&type=im&id=4201
Shop: Install - Jim at JPR Imports in Blackwood, NJ.
Tune - Rob at Maximum AutoSound, Security, & Performance in Garwood, NJ.
Dyno - Dynapack Hydraulic Brake Dyno - This dyno, similar to a mustang dyno in concept (hydraulic brake), should read about 8% lower than a dynojet but is very repeatable making it good for tuning according to Rob.
Results -
302.8 hp @ 6200ish RPM
267.9 ft-lbs @ 5450ish RPM
20.67 peak recorded highway MPG post turbo install.
11.56 psi peak boost
12.5 to 10.8 afr (12 to 12.5 up to 6500 and then it dips under 11 at 7000 and above)
I have Rob from Maximum AutoSound Security & Performance emailing me the plots. I have them on paper. The only hold up was he never set up his dyno PC with his shop network and/or some software to be able to provide electronic copies other than to removable storage (which I did not have on me at the time of pickup). I could scan the plots I guess. The car is running off the interceptor-x and currently in map mode. I only had time to get the car in the shop for 1 day. When I drop the car off for a full top to bottom tune, it'll be swapped to matrix mode to fix some of my RPM specific issues (lean in vacuum at 3000 rpms and rich idle/top end).
Personal thoughts:
1. Assuming the 8% difference is roughly correct and that the SAE J1349 correction (it was maybe 75-80 degrees in the shop so the correction should be minimal), the car was up against the ~325ish stock coil hp barrier (depending on reference, 8% takes it to 327-329 whp).
2. By 7000 rpms, my torque curve is starting to plummet. I'm hoping when someone looks at the chart they recognize it as simply overwhelming the stock coils with strength of spark required at an increasing frequency. Are the coils also heating up during the run? If the car was taken to peak tq and held, would the coils heat up and fade? Don't know. To give you an idea of the torque: 5500 - 267, 6000 - 262, 6500 - 245, 7000 - 215, 7500 - 175, 8000 - 135, 8500 - 55. At 8500, I think the throttle is already closing to end the run, but the torque curve dive is very pronounced and the peak HP is very early.
3. The car sounds great through 7000 rpms. Up top, though, the car has a choppy texture. If I were to guess, I'd say the ignition is failing and a lot of the fuel is burning or continuing to burn in the exhaust manifold. The noise is similar to when I downshift the car for engine braking and the exhaust pops a little but at a much higher frequency.
4. My boost peaks at 11.56 psi. By 7000 rpms, it's making less than 10 psi and maybe down to 9 at 8000 rpms. Is this because of the weak ignition or a waste gate that is more open than it should be? I think the mazsport kit ships with a 7 lb spring but I do have a greddy ebc in there. Not sure, but for now I'm not worried about losing a couple PSI.
So, my to-do list right now is:
1. Install Mazmart water pump to combat cavitation. I got my coolant level sensor to go on twice now. It only came on for a short period of time during heavy driving. I checked my coolant level, and it's full. I'm hoping this is caused by pump cavitation caused by a combination of higher than normal coolant temps (caused by the additional power) and poor pump design rather than a deeper cooling system issue. I watch my coolant temp fairly diligently.
2. Order/install Mazsport cooling mod. It looks like my stock coolant temp sensor has not fully survived the turbo process. It reads about 20 degrees low. I have not validated this with a laser pyrometer, but initially I was not able to get the radiator fans to come on. The fans currently have a jumper installed so that I can run them constantly should I need to. It's a stop gap solution for now. With the fans on, I don't have heat issues other than as discussed above.
3. Order/install coils. I shot off a PM to Charles R Hill last night. I then read the remainder of the thread on the coil setups BHR is looking to run. I'm not keen on having red wires (my entire exterior and engine bay being black, silver, and blue) but maybe we can work something out.
4. Full tune in matrix mode after the coils are in. I'm not looking to really set any records, but I would like to see my car be able to maintain its torque curve and handle its own cooling.
(I went to scan the plots. The boost chart plot out nice and black. On the hp/tq graph, the baseline run is almost invisible and the final tune run is actually invisible. Damn you light green/blue lines.)
If anyone has input on what overloading the stock coils sounds like/looks like on a dynoplot, chime in. The coils seems to function fine as my car runs well and I get good gas mileage relative to before. The precipitous drop in TQ (and subsequent low HP development) and rough tone at high RPMS (as experienced on the dyno - I don't run the car much past 7000 right now) are my 2 symptoms. Confirmation would be nice, but I'm replacing the coils anyway. I have 2600 miles in 4 weeks post turbo with a ton of traveling highway miles and some hard driving. So far, so good.
Warning! The below dyno sheet looks like hell!! It is a hand traced paper plot scanned and emailed as a tif which was then reduced in size and color content in MSPaint and exported to JPeg. It's the best I can do for now. The hand traced lines are the car as it sits now. The ghost lines are the base map I rode in with at a lower boost setting, more conservative timing, and too much fuel. I didn't trace the base line as it's entirely unimportant at this point in time and I am lazy. The grid lines are for the torque Y axis. Note that the HP tic marks do not line up with the torque grid lines.
http://www.rx8club.com/vbgarage.php?do=getimage&type=im&id=4201