I'm a proud new owner of a 2007 Red RX8 and i'm so confused. I came here to learn alot of things, but i've came out finding out that alot of things are still up for debate.

Oil for instance, my car has 3k miles on it, i'm gettin ready to do a oil change on her, the manuel says none synthetic, but alot of peepz on here are running it anyway. Is that better? It's apparently against mazda's wishs, and I would imagine they would know better, but is there something I dont know but you guys do?

Do rotaries have a real break in period like piston motors?

I'm the type of person to run cars moderately hard, but i always take the up most care of any car I own. The 2 runs nothing but Mobil 1 Synthetic with an authetic toyota oil filter religiously every 3500 miles, given adaquate cool down time for the turbo, I even drive to the only Shell station we have in town because I don't trust the mom and pop shops for gas. (The Jap spec motor is pretty emo about gas anyways)

Can anyone give me the low down? What I should be watching for? I used the search function, but the questions i ask always end up in huge debates.

THANKS!

I used the search function, but the questions i ask always end up in huge debates.

THANKS!

This will be no different. There is no definitive answer.

I personally use Royal Purple 10w40 (synthetic).

And yes, follow the break-in in your manual, or take Racing Beat's break-in advice. However you do it, it needs to be broken in.

Synthetic oil's better but it's also good to change dino oil frequently. Mazda's only current objection to synthetic is reportedly to an additive that's found in Mobile 1. If you're in the US, you should read up on using something better than 5w-20.

Yes, Mazda has a break-in period for the 8 and Racing Beat recommends an even more conservative break-in period.

Everything will always be up for debate.

wow you guys suck.. thanks for helping.. lololol

jk... i like how the 8 is still a open book, in the world of Mr2s, the bible is still holding true since the late 90's.

thanks : )

Many folks have made good points about using synthetic oil or a "non-reccomended" weight of oil.

Personally.........if my car was new I would follow the owners manual (non-synthetic, 5W-20) to a "T", and not give any dealership the ammunition to deny a warranty if anything was ever to go wrong.

I assume you have read the cumulative synthetic oil thread at the top of the tech garage forum?

Many folks have made good points about using synthetic oil or a "non-reccomended" weight of oil.

Personally.........if my car was new I would follow the owners manual (non-synthetic, 5W-20) to a "T", and not give any dealership the ammunition to deny a warranty if anything was ever to go wrong.

I'd rather use a heavier weight oil to protect my engine (knowing 5W20 was only ever recommended because of emissions) and count on the dealership never knowing the difference.

Everything will always be up for debate.
See what I mean?

I assume you have read the cumulative synthetic oil thread at the top of the tech garage forum?

Yup, i'm stickin with non-synethic until the warrenty goes out. I bought the 8 so that I can strip the 2 and turn it into a road car, but I already have the itch to mess around with the 8. I just want to hear the rotors more : (

oil I personally use dino but went to 5w30 last oil change and it seems to run alot better than 5w20 but for break in just b easy on her for about 1000 miles or so no WOT or things like that then run her up to 9k every shift won't hurt it a bit! Welcome to the addiction!!!

Dino or synthetic doesn't really matter too much if you're changing oil every 3k like you're supposed to. Oil weight is more important. Use a good 5w-30. 5w-20 is too thin and is only recommended on US cars to meet emissions requirements.

Warm the engine up fully before exceeding 5K RPM. Make sure to spend time in the upper rev range. The Renesis is more then happy to run at 9K RPM all day long, and high revs actually help engine life by preventing carbon buildup.

5w20 or 5w30 non synthetic....it's been my experience that rotary engines do not run well in the long term with synthetic oil...run the thin stuff check often...these engines are designed to burn oil

Just changed my oil today and i went with 5w-30 non synthetic. Car definitely runs better than with 5w-20 and it feels alot smoother in the upper rpms also.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Guess who?!?!?!?!?!?!?!



Welcome to the addiction penguin


-Firstgen

5w-30 or 10w-30, good old dino oil or syntec, change every 3k mile, u'll be good to go.

This thread is proof that the debate will never end. In the distant future perhaps enough data and study about engine failure will result in a conclusion, but for now, just make your best educated guess. Welcome to the rotory world!

i use whats recomended...and she runs fine

5W-30 in summer, 5W-20 in the winter is what I use. And I ONLY use Castrol GTX

I'm confused about Endust and or other products for dusting. Do they really bring out the natural beauty of the wood? I mean most furtinure nodays have a clear coat on them. So that would mean the Endust pentrates that clear coat to get down to the actual wood and bring out the natural beauty of the wood? I have my doubts on that. I say your money could be spent elsewhere and just use a wet rag to dust.

Yeah I think when it comes to a brand Castrol GTX is def the reccommended around this forum....but it really depends on ur location on what weight u use...

I'm confused about Endust and or other products for dusting. Do they really bring out the natural beauty of the wood? I mean most furtinure nodays have a clear coat on them. So that would mean the Endust pentrates that clear coat to get down to the actual wood and bring out the natural beauty of the wood? I have my doubts on that. I say your money could be spent elsewhere and just use a wet rag to dust.Whatever you do, never use Lemon Pledge. Mazda has not done any long-term testing using Lemon Pledge in the Renesis rotary engine. As such, we do not recommend the use of Lemon Pledge.