I need to get my car dyno tuned very soon but I was thinking to upgrade to the GT2871R turbo at the same time.

I know that I need a fuel pump and injectors but what else do I need? :)

you need to get the 2871r configured right- GT 5-bolt discharge housing with built-in internal wastegate, T25 inlet housing, 0.86 A/R turbine housing, and a 0.60 A/R compressor housing.

New P2 fuel injectors and fuel pump like you mentioned

The air intake pipe will need to be modified to slip onto the inlet of the 2871r.

The new Garrett turbo is also water cooled, so you will need to run coolant lines to it. The easiest way is to do a throttle body coolant bypass mod and use those coolant hoses.

Wow, that was a great help. Thanks man!

Could you be a little more specific about the "throttle body coolant bypass mod"?

look it up in the DIY section.

Basically, there is coolant flowing through our throttle bodies. You can disconnect the two 3/8" coolant hoses that connect to either side of the throttle body and the connect them to one another, thus bypassing the throttle body, so you don't preheat your intake air with hot coolant. Instead of connecting them to one another tho, you can extend them with two 3/8" brass barbs and route them to the turbo for the coolant hoses. You will need some extra 3/8" emission hose.

However, if you live in a place of the world where it gots cold, I wouldn't recommend bypassing your throttle body. If you do, there is a chance the throttle plate can get stuck in cold weather.

Just noticed you live in Canada, so I would advise against the throttle body bypass mod. You will need to tap into something for your coolant lines. You could put two brass T-fittings on the throttle body hoses, one for feed and one for return.

look it up in the DIY section.

Basically, there is coolant flowing through our throttle bodies. You can disconnect the two 3/8" coolant hoses that connect to either side of the throttle body and the connect them to one another, thus bypassing the throttle body, so you don't preheat your intake air with hot coolant. Instead of connecting them to one another tho, you can extend them with two 3/8" brass barbs and route them to the turbo for the coolant hoses. You will need some extra 3/8" emission hose.

However, if you live in a place of the world where it gots cold, I wouldn't recommend bypassing your throttle body. If you do, there is a chance the throttle plate can get stuck in cold weather.

Just noticed you live in Canada, so I would advise against the throttle body bypass mod. You will need to tap into something for your coolant lines. You could put two brass T-fittings on the throttle body hoses, one for feed and one for return.


Makes perfect sense.

I do plan to drive my car thru the winter so I agree that its best if I just tap into the coolant lines.

Thanks for your help bro!

I thought the 2871 RS was the one to get, not the 2871 R, since the RS flows a lot more?

I thought the 2871 RS was the one to get, not the 2871 R, since the RS flows a lot more?

Everytime I read about the upgrade it's always the GT2871R. This is the 1st time I hear of the "RS" version.

I thought the 2871 RS was the one to get, not the 2871 R, since the RS flows a lot more?

Where did you get the idea that the "Disco Potato" flows more?

Read the flow maps:

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/misc/2871rs.jpg

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/misc/2871r.jpg


FAIL!

Just to add to what CW mentioned:

You will also have to "clock" the turbo and move the wastegate actuator.
Not a big deal, but it may require a new bracket.
If you are comfortable fabbing the new discharge pipe, the WG actuator bracket will be a piece of cake.
I just made one for my new actuator on the old turbo this afternoon. It took about 10 - 15 minutes.

Even with clocking and moving the wastegate actuator it still will not fit onto the Greddy manifold without contacting it and will not sit flush. You would have to fab some type of flange adapter or spacer to make it fit flush and clear the manifold. I tried but lost interest and sold both my turbo and kit.

You didn't get the right turbo.
The 2871R is exactly the same size and shape as the TD06-18G.

MM, you should sell the correct turbo with the proper modifications so that people who want to upgrade have an upgrade path.. cause it seems no one else out there knows how to do it, or is willing to sell such an upgrade.

Just a thought....

MM, you should sell the correct turbo with the proper modifications so that people who want to upgrade have an upgrade path.. cause it seems no one else out there knows how to do it, or is willing to sell such an upgrade.

Just a thought....

That is an EXCELENT idea. I would be 1st in line!!!

You didn't get the right turbo.
The 2871R is exactly the same size and shape as the TD06-18G.

Really? I am pretty sure that I got a genuine 2871r. Wish I still had it so that I could compare it.

Working on it.

good, cause my turbo is starting to smoke at stop lights, and I had the oil restrictor in place :(

Working on it.

SWEET!!!!

Do you have an idea when the kit might be ready? Ball park?

I will place an order for the interceptor-x at the same time. :)

No ETA. Probably before Spring.

good, cause my turbo is starting to smoke at stop lights, and I had the oil restrictor in place :(

:rollingla sorry - could not help myself ....

good, cause my turbo is starting to smoke at stop lights, and I had the oil restrictor in place :(

Heat/carbon damage to the journal bearings.

How long do you idle down before you shut off the car?

BTW - New bearings are only about $10 and are real easy to install (once you get the turbo out of the car).

Folks, I'm going to have a 2871R put in my car with the help of Jeff (MM) and myself, and there will be a full write-up about it posted up with pictures. We will have detailed pictures showing would what needs to be modified and how you install the new turbo. Just be patient, it won't be until late November probably.

dyno sheet by tomorrow or it didn't happen

dyno sheet by tomorrow or it didn't happen

Well, it hasn't happened yet anyways! I am still waiting on some parts, mainly the turbo. It won't happen until November or even December.

Or January or February...

I'm still in the middle of a bunch of other junk, Dave. I'm leaving for SEMA tonight, so I'll give you a call when I'm heading north and try to swing by your way.

Heat/carbon damage to the journal bearings.

How long do you idle down before you shut off the car?

BTW - New bearings are only about $10 and are real easy to install (once you get the turbo out of the car).

I don't idle very long. But I stay out of boost the last 5 minutes of my trip before I park the car.

I've been using this turbo for 13k miles btw. And the smoking doesn't happen all the time. Randomly it does it.... maybe 5x so far, but it's a lot of smoke.

Or January or February...

I'm still in the middle of a bunch of other junk, Dave. I'm leaving for SEMA tonight, so I'll give you a call when I'm heading north and try to swing by your way.

Well, if you can't help me then I may just do it myself and have some help from Shawn and others. He has a friend who can do the aluminum welding, I just need help with clocking the w/g actuator bracket.



I don't idle very long. But I stay out of boost the last 5 minutes of my trip before I park the car.

I've been using this turbo for 13k miles btw. And the smoking doesn't happen all the time. Randomly it does it.... maybe 5x so far, but it's a lot of smoke.

Are you sure you don't have a small oil leak that may be dripping oil on your hot exhaust manifold or turbine housing? That would cause it as well.

no oil leak at all. I used to have one with the RB adaptor, but it's been pulled off the car, and there's no oil on the floor in my garage even after it's sat around for days. The smoke doesn't come out right away or anything either. It takes a bit at idle before it starts. Once I start driving it's gone and usually doesn't return.

no oil leak at all. I used to have one with the RB adaptor, but it's been pulled off the car, and there's no oil on the floor in my garage even after it's sat around for days. The smoke doesn't come out right away or anything either. It takes a bit at idle before it starts. Once I start driving it's gone and usually doesn't return.

Yeah, I've been there and done that several times with both turbos.
It is a result of the outrageous heat soak that the bearings must withstand having the turbo positioned where it is.

Its embarrassing. You are sitting there at a long traffic light and everything is fine.
Then, suddenly, there is a massive cloud building.
Then, it goes away and doesn't happen again for a few hours, days or even weeks.

Well, if you can't help me then I may just do it myself and have some help from Shawn and others. He has a friend who can do the aluminum welding, I just need help with clocking the w/g actuator bracket.

Cool. You'll get it done a lot sooner that way.
I don't even have time to do my own conversion until the spring.

so does that mean my bearings need to be replaced? or is this just a cooling issue?

so does that mean my bearings need to be replaced? or is this just a cooling issue?

Probably both.

The turbo is in a crappy location sitting down there in the first place, which lends itself to getting your bearing cooked because of the high heat.

That's yet another plus the Garrett GT2871R; it's water cooled, so you have coolant helping to keep the CHRA cool.

Sometime next year I may experiment with installing some kind of duct or panel to direct more airflow to the turbo or evacuate more air from the turbo area.

so does that mean my bearings need to be replaced? or is this just a cooling issue?

Probably the bearings.
Just pull the downpipe and give the turbine shaft a wiggle.
If it moves more than .5mm or so all the way around, they are done.
It'll probably more a lot more than that.

Wait a minute.

How are you going to bolt a Garrett turbo to a Mitsubishi manifold?

Because it is a T-25 style inlet, common to both and the discharge is a standard 5-bolt outlet.

Wait a minute.

How are you going to bolt a Garrett turbo to a Mitsubishi manifold?

quite easily

Probably the bearings.
Just pull the downpipe and give the turbine shaft a wiggle.
If it moves more than .5mm or so all the way around, they are done.
It'll probably more a lot more than that.

your say the bearings are easy to replace?
ive been looking around for replacment bearings for my greddy turbo and havent found any yet.
where might i find them?

A turbo rebuild shop should have them.
There are three shops right here in Phoenix that have them behind the counter.
Its about $20.

A turbo rebuild shop should have them.
There are three shops right here in Phoenix that have them behind the counter.
Its about $20.

problem..i live in wisconsin

There is nothing wrong with Wisconsin. Well, maybe.
There should be a turbo shop somewhere.

There is nothing wrong with Wisconsin. Well, maybe.
There should be a turbo shop somewhere.

not sayin theres anything wrong with wisconsin. the snow keeps me from diving my 8 year round...and god knows if i lived in a southern state id be driving her all the time