reminder: never get under a car supported only by a jack.

use jack stands, or drive onto ramps. even with my RB springs, i was able to drive onto 1" thick boards and reach the plug.

after hundreds of oil changes ive done, this was the first one i had to use a cap wrench for.

Just changed my oil myself for the first time. It was cake. Thanks for the awesome instructions.

Oil Pan Drain Bolt: HE03-10-404
Drain Bolt Gasket: 9956-41-400

note that many fasteners have an odd appearing number like this gasket i.e. #99564-1400, this is a good part number but must be changed to the standard part number format xxxx-xx-xxx

Maybe i'm weird but i jus used my gorilla powers and turned the Oil Filter and got it off ... I must say thanks to whoever mentioned tapping the filter before removal, brilliant.

It worked like a charm, when i pulled only like two or three decent drops came out and I didn't even leave it that long either.

Hand pulled & Hand re-tightened, but then i'm built like a gorilla so...

I'd advise the weaklings to buy the F wrench :P

Btw, i did this oil change after 3k and we all know 5w20 syntec looks like Honey, my old oil is like molasses, i mean wat gives...

3k ??? might start changing @ 2k now, it looks awful.

just did this on Sun. thanks for the great instructions

Does anyone have a pic of their dip stick? Should I have a F for full and L for low?

Does anyone have a pic of their dip stick? Should I have a F for full and L for low?

should be two marks on the stick - use your powers of cunning and logic to figure out which is which ....

I finally took a hack at it! Instructions here were great. I've done oil change on my previous cars (all Subarus). before and I have to say due the weird position of the oil filter, it was a bit messy. Also I didn't raise the car so getting the drain plug out was tough. Not easy to leverage as the car is so low. But nevertheless, it's real straight forward. I think in the future, I am going to invest on a Fumoto Valve or those Fram SD2. Makes it much easier. And I used the OEM filters. These are blue canisters.

I finally took a hack at it! Instructions here were great. I've done oil change on my previous cars (all Subarus). before and I have to say due the weird position of the oil filter, it was a bit messy. Also I didn't raise the car so getting the drain plug out was tough. Not easy to leverage as the car is so low. But nevertheless, it's real straight forward. I think in the future, I am going to invest on a Fumoto Valve or those Fram SD2. Makes it much easier. And I used the OEM filters. These are blue canisters.

the Fumoto valve has saved me SO MUCH time and effort that would've been needed to lift car up and loosen bolt, and then find new washer and retighten bolt. Been using it for 81k+ miles, not one single issue

one of the best bang-for-buck 'mod' I've done for my 8 :)

this question is going to sound dumb, but... assuming you put a whole in the filter to let it drain, your going to need a new one right?!?! sorry its like 4 in the morning here and i wanta make sure im reading this right...

And im also guessing your supposed to change your oil filter every time you change your oil?

Some people put a hole in their filter so that air can go in so the oil will come out. I personally don't do that, it's just a preference thing.

For example, you have a 1 gallon container of milk, you turn it up-side-down and it comes out VERY slowly. If you put a hole on the bottom of the container, turn it up-side-down, it will come out nice and smoothly and alot faster.

And as for the second question, you absolutely have to replace your old oil filter with a new one, always. If you don't your oil will not flow nicely and you'll get alot of junk in your oil. Your oil filter can even clog itself and prevent flow if you don't change it.

Yes. That does sound stupid. If you have to ask a question like that, you shouldn't even be changing your own oil.

No need to do that

Just let ur car sit overnight.

no oil will be left in the oil filter.

Yes. That does sound stupid. If you have to ask a question like that, you shouldn't even be changing your own oil.


Not trying to sound rude fire but is this not a forum where you ask questions? im sure at a young age you had questions too my friend... we walk before we run...

I'm the one being rude. I'll admit. I apologize for it. But you're asking if you need to replace the oil filter if you punch a hole in it. Stop and think about that for a second.

I am having the hardest time trying to get the drain plug out. I cannot for the life of me get that thing to even budge. Any words of wisdom? I mean I get the socket on there, and pull as hard as I can and the socket will just pop off and the bolt hasn't moved a millimeter. when I looked at it, the bolt looks like it is kind of deep into the hole, like it was massively over-tightened by the Mazda dealership last time I got it done. this is a great DIY by the way, just can't get that dang drain plug off.

i have been doing my oil changes for a while now! i have always used castrol GTX, i was wondering if one of you guys might recommend a better oil, if there is one! thanks for the help!....

OMG serious answer. Oil brand and weight are subjective here on the forum...use whatever you want, hell use the search bar too. It holds infinite answers to this question.:icon_no2:

castrol gtx is fine

HELP!!! Noob question. -Please dont flame me(puts on flame suit) but I need to change the oil filter. -Of course the car isnt running but will it cause air bubbles or something? Just completed an oil change but would like to try a different filter.

Thanks.

Wow. You have taken noob to another level. LOL!!!!!

Of course you can change the oil filter. It should be done EVERY time you change the oil. Unscrew the existing one and screw on a new one. Nothing special to do before or after. Some people recommend an oil filter cap style wrench (F-size), but I never use em. Just my hands the whole way. It's a tight fit back there, but I've done it many many times now.

Thats Mr. Noob to you son!

Thanks FireBirddude.

First time changing the oil on the 8 myself, and I must say...a pleasure. Much better than trying to take off the filter/plug of the 7's considering the idiots that had done it prior to me getting the car...everything came off so easily.

<3

Hey guys...I own a 2007 Series II RX-8 manual as seen on my signature. I have replaced four quart of oil every time. It is still have a half quart left from full mark. Just curious on how you guys did every oil change.

I don't know what you are asking.

Q. Are you asking how much oil it takes to fill the car up after an oil change?

A. That is going to vary on how much you get out, if your oil was low to begin with and so on. I usually refill my oil once every 1500 miles or so to top it off. At 3000 miles It is low again but instead of adding any I just do an oil change. I usually get about 4-5 quarts of oil out this way. The oil system holds about 8 quarts of oil if you include what is in the oil coolers and lines.

To fill a set amount every time you change the oil like I think you are doing is not a good idea. Buy 5-6 quarts so you will have enough. Drain the oil out and change the filter. Fill up the oil until the dipstick reads that it is full. Warm up the car and then let it sit for 5 minutes. Now check your level again. It should be low since some of the oil you just put in is now in the filter. Now take that extra quart or so you have left and fill the car up to the fill mark. Now you are done.

As for the extra oil you have left, it can be used to fill the car up after it burns some. I usually buy 6 quarts and have about 1 left that I keep in the car to keep the oil topped off.

Thanks for your reply. In short, the amount of oil being changed over the drain level should be constant regardless of the oil level remaining in your enigne. In my case, it will take me 4.5 quart to fill it up to FULL level. In your case, you meant 5 quart minimum, right? One quart left to spare, right?

Is it bad if I lost the crush washer and then put the drain plug back without one?

Is it bad if I lost the crush washer and then put the drain plug back without one?

technically no, but it may leak. its a 50 cent part that they sell at autozone/advance auto parts, so not really that difficult to find.

technically no, but it may leak. its a 50 cent part that they sell at autozone/advance auto parts, so not really that difficult to find.

Haha, yes. But if I take the drain plug out to put the crush washer on.... well... you know what will happen next.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=90879&highlight=oil

read this,,

and the filter is going to make a bit of a mess whatever you do..

beers :beer:

Read that (and this entire thread) - and have a question about the whole tilt-a-whirl ride many people seem to be giving their cars to get more of the old oil out. What's the difference between tilting the car sideways from each side to try to drain the oil coolers vs. having the nose in the air either via centrally jacking the front up or driving up on ramps (my preference) and giving the car plenty of time to drain? Either way seems to put the oil coolers well above the drain plug.

You'll end up with some dirty oil trapped in the back of the pan behind the drain plug, but that seems acceptable to me assuming this (ramps) gets more oil out of the coolers.

Later,

Luke

Good thread thank you. from the mechaniclly challenged!!

Don't forget....

Series II (09~)Owners ....

You must use the original factory oil filter as ANY larger diameter filter will NOT Fit...
Oil filter is located at the bottom of the front Timing Cover, you have to remove the silver Sump Guard (7 Bolts) to get at the filter...REPLACE Guard When Done.

I highly recommend you order from your dealer the Genuine Mazda Oil Filter Wrench..
Part # 49G0-14-001
There are not expensive, and the easiest way to remove the oil filter as you cant get your hand in there.

The sump drain PLUG is also different, it is a recessed type and you MUST have an 8mm HEX/Allen Type LONG key to remove it...

Crush washer is the same as Series I RX-8's...

Maybe someone can post photos of the pieces needed to be removed in order to get to the filter and drain plug.

One other question... does the plastic cover under the engine need to be removed in order to get to the filter and plug, and, can everything be removed and the oil and filter be changed using a pair of typical drive-on ramps?

Thanks

Maybe someone can post photos of the pieces needed to be removed in order to get to the filter and drain plug.

One other question... does the plastic cover under the engine need to be removed in order to get to the filter and plug, and, can everything be removed and the oil and filter be changed using a pair of typical drive-on ramps?

Thanks

Ah, should have done it when I did it - will do next time. What plastic cover ? The front bumper lip ? You need to remove the silver sump guard to access the oil filter.

Typical drive-on ramps, yes.

Maybe someone can post photos of the pieces needed to be removed in order to get to the filter and drain plug.

One other question... does the plastic cover under the engine need to be removed in order to get to the filter and plug, and, can everything be removed and the oil and filter be changed using a pair of typical drive-on ramps?

Thanks

Can't you read ^^^^ mate... ;)

The ONLY thing you have to remove are the 7 SILVER BOLTS that holds the SILVER
under body sump tray in 09's....that is all...to get to oil filter.

I suggest you look under your car where the engine is and look.

Did I say you had to remove any plastic? :banghead:

NO YOU DON'T...

BTW Welcome to the club.

BTW. The Engine is Behind the front wheel line to-wards the dashboard.

Ash

Thanks for the quick response guys. It was impossible for me to see much of the engine while peeking under the car in the showroom. There wasn't much room to squeeze underneath.

I just looked under the car and I see the "sump guard", about 1.5 by 1.5 ft in size, just behind the "plastic splash shield" that I referred to earlier.

When removing the sump guard, both the filter and the drain plug will be accessible, right?

I just got the car, so I won't be changing the oil for a while, but I'll try to remember to take photos when I do the job. I'll get a 8mm allen wrench "long key" socket adapter, so that I'll be able to use my socket wrench. I assume that little handheld wrenches might not break loose the 8mm drain plug when trying to remove it.


Also noted the cable to the 02 sensor; the cable hangs a little low, need to be careful about obstacles in the road. May add some type of wire "hanger" to at least get it flush with the underbody. May decide to purchase oil cooler guards before a pebble makes a hole in them. Have a link, anyone?

Again, thanks to all.

When removing the sump guard, both the filter and the drain plug will be accessible, right?

Right.



Also noted the cable to the 02 sensor; the cable hangs a little low, need to be careful about obstacles in the road. May add some type of wire "hanger" to at least get it flush with the underbody. May decide to purchase oil cooler guards before a pebble makes a hole in them. Have a link, anyone?


Search is your friend:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=86185
http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=11808 (if yours is 09)

Right.




Search is your friend:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=86185
http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=11808 (if yours is 09)

Thanks again. Will practice using search for this forum as I get used to navigating this forum.

technically no, but it may leak. its a 50 cent part that they sell at autozone/advance auto parts, so not really that difficult to find.

Autozone one is okay.... slightly thicker and bigger, S2000 is even closer, I'll post some comparison measurements and pictures next time.

I got under the car this weekend and removed the sump guard. It's easy to get to the drain plug, but the filter is wedged off to the side of the drain pan. I bought the filter wrench but I'm thinking that because the filter is "recessed" into it's attachment point, that it's going to be a mess removing it, with a lot of oil dripping out onto the frame members that are in the vicinity. One would have to leave a lot of rags or paper towels over these frame members because I just don't see how it's not going to leak a lot of oil in the removal process. It looks almost impossible to get paper towels around the filter where it screws into the block, because there's so little room here.

Comments anyone?

Yeah, after you do it once and drip oil on the ground, then you know exactly where to place to pan to catch the drippings.

Sorry I didn't read the entire thread but I'm in a bit of a hurry. I checked my oil for the first time at the gas station this afternoon (a habit I'm trying to get myself into) and noticed that it was at about the last dot from the bottom. I'm about 1500 miles away from the next oil change, do I need to add more at this point? i've noticed the oil pressure needle is a little higher than when I first got it. Any estimate on how much more I would need to put in if needed?

Sorry I didn't read the entire thread but I'm in a bit of a hurry. I checked my oil for the first time at the gas station this afternoon (a habit I'm trying to get myself into) and noticed that it was at about the last dot from the bottom. I'm about 1500 miles away from the next oil change, do I need to add more at this point? i've noticed the oil pressure needle is a little higher than when I first got it. Any estimate on how much more I would need to put in if needed?

Well since the oil pressure sensor is a dummy light, its impossible for it to change. The only change that it would be is if you are totally out of oil, then its not happy with you. Personally I would put in a quart, and be sure to check it more often, especially with heavy driving.

I got under the car this weekend and removed the sump guard. It's easy to get to the drain plug, but the filter is wedged off to the side of the drain pan. I bought the filter wrench but I'm thinking that because the filter is "recessed" into it's attachment point, that it's going to be a mess removing it, with a lot of oil dripping out onto the frame members that are in the vicinity. One would have to leave a lot of rags or paper towels over these frame members because I just don't see how it's not going to leak a lot of oil in the removal process. It looks almost impossible to get paper towels around the filter where it screws into the block, because there's so little room here.

Comments anyone?

You have a Series II also!.. I have done 3 changes so getting used to it, the filter is hidden away isn't it.

IMO the Mazda genuine oil filter tool cap is the go for loosening, but you still need your hand to remove it, and yes a little mess.
49G0-14-001 is the Mazda wrench. ONLY for the S2 size filters.
Make sure you replace your silver sump guard.

Do you have to reset the computer after doing the oil change? If so, how?

Do you have to reset the computer after doing the oil change? If so, how?

what computer?

Do you have to reset the computer after doing the oil change? If so, how?

I rebooted my Mac (inside the house, not in the car) everytime I changed the engine oil in my 8. Soooo that proves that my Mac can survive without reboot for 3K miles (in my case that's around 3 months) :lol:

I meant the ECU, I had to do this with my old car.

No reset rquired, there is no warning light or monitor involved.

S

I'm one of these dummies. With the amount of space after jacking the car and putting a jackstand there I couldn't budge the oil pan plug laying on my belly :P Any tips? It's extremely hard to get any momentum in that position, do you guys use a sturdy extension or something? The mechanics that did it last time probably used air tools.

An 18" socket "breaker bar" is your friend when you have limited room and leverage. Available at Autozone and similar. Useful for the tranny and differential fluid changes as well.

I'm one of these dummies. With the amount of space after jacking the car and putting a jackstand there I couldn't budge the oil pan plug laying on my belly :P Any tips? It's extremely hard to get any momentum in that position, do you guys use a sturdy extension or something? The mechanics that did it last time probably used air tools.

You have a Series II also!.. I have done 3 changes so getting used to it, the filter is hidden away isn't it.

IMO the Mazda genuine oil filter tool cap is the go for loosening, but you still need your hand to remove it, and yes a little mess.
49G0-14-001 is the Mazda wrench. ONLY for the S2 size filters.
Make sure you replace your silver sump guard.


I also noticed that the drain plug is at the front of the oil pan as oppossed to the usual rear of the pan. So, doesn't it seem like the car neeeds to be level when draining the oil? This would make me think that drive-on ramps are not the ideal solution for this car.

Check the photo in the very first series of DIY posts in this thread. You're off by 90 degrees. ;)

I also noticed that the drain plug is at the front of the oil pan as oppossed to the usual rear of the pan. So, doesn't it seem like the car neeeds to be level when draining the oil? This would make me think that drive-on ramps are not the ideal solution for this car.

Check the photo in the very first series of DIY posts in this thread. You're off by 90 degrees. ;)

Series II (o9) RX-8's have a different sump, different sump drain plug (flat hex), different location and different oil filter and location.

Yep; I didn't follow the full thread flow.

Ramps are great for 2004 - 08 btw.

Series II (o9) RX-8's have a different sump, different sump drain plug (flat hex), different location and different oil filter and location.

Please note: The 2009 RX 8 is completeley different in oil change procedure from earlier cars.

Drive on ramps will not work with this car.

Here's one method. Since the oil drain plug is towards the front of the oil pan, you will need to jack up the car so that it is at least level, if not slighlty angled down towards the front of the car in order to drain the most amount of oil.

I will use two floor jacks at the front of the car. I will posistion the car so that it takes advantage of the slight downward angle of my driveway. After I remove the filter and the drain plug, I'll carefully lower the car so that the oil pan is angled down as much as possible, for a few minutes. Then I'll jack up the car again, replace the filter, drain plug and sump guard.

For an '09, how about backing onto Rhino ramps (better anyway since the e-brake locks up the rear wheels), then jack stands on the front sills to level it.

Please note: The 2009 RX 8 is completeley different in oil change procedure from earlier cars.

Drive on ramps will not work with this car.

Here's one method. Since the oil drain plug is towards the front of the oil pan, you will need to jack up the car so that it is at least level, if not slighlty angled down towards the front of the car in order to drain the most amount of oil.

I will use two floor jacks at the front of the car. I will posistion the car so that it takes advantage of the slight downward angle of my driveway. After I remove the filter and the drain plug, I'll carefully lower the car so that the oil pan is angled down as much as possible, for a few minutes. Then I'll jack up the car again, replace the filter, drain plug and sump guard.

when i first bought my car one of the rx8 guys told me if im out of warrenty to change to 10w30 bad i dead or good?

"Check the oil every other fill up. It's designed to use oil. Change the oil every 3000 miles like clockwork. If it's out of warranty, my opinion is to switch to 10W30."

Autozone one is okay.... slightly thicker and bigger, S2000 is even closer, I'll post some comparison measurements and pictures next time.

Autozone: $0.59, #095-015.1

Thickness: 2.00 mm
Inner Dimension (ID): 14.52 mm
Outer Dimension (OD): 24.10 mm

Honda S2000: $0.19 (cheapest found online, shipping not included), according to the site, 6-pack of washers Honda's Retail $2.10. Their price for 6-pack is $0.96. Supplied by friend with S2000 in my case.

Thickness: 1.85 mm
Inner Dimension (ID): 14.31 mm
Outer Dimension (OD): 21.75 mm

Mazda: $0.99 at my local dealerships.

Thickness: 1.54 mm
Inner Dimension (ID): 14.32 mm
Outer Dimension (OD): 19.82 mm

despite the generalized claims in this thread, the newer Fram "Tough Guard" is considered an acceptable replacement oil filter, most Walmarts carry it

It's what I use, but my filters get change by the # of races, not miles

It's generally accepted on this board that 5w-20 is too thin and only Mazda 'recommended' to improve their fleet mpg rating.

Most switch to 5w-30, 10w-30 or 10w-40 dependent on region. I roll 5w-30 Castrol GTX.

Switching to a higher viscosity oil will not void your warranty anyway as 1) again, 5w-20 is only recommended, not required and 2) a dealer couldn't tell the difference anyway.

when i first bought my car one of the rx8 guys told me if im out of warrenty to change to 10w30 bad i dead or good?

"Check the oil every other fill up. It's designed to use oil. Change the oil every 3000 miles like clockwork. If it's out of warranty, my opinion is to switch to 10W30."

thanks great diy example...

It's generally accepted on this board that 5w-20 is too thin and only Mazda 'recommended' to improve their fleet mpg rating.

Most switch to 5w-30, 10w-30 or 10w-40 dependent on region. I roll 5w-30 Castrol GTX.

Switching to a higher viscosity oil will not void your warranty anyway as 1) again, 5w-20 is only recommended, not required and 2) a dealer couldn't tell the difference anyway.


Huey,

Do you use 5W-30 year round? What are the advantages of 5W-30 over 5W-20?

Yes I do. But then I only run my '8 in the Winter on sand/salt/snow free weekend days.

Actually the 5w (Winter rating) is a bit overkill in our area. How many days does it get down to 5 degf? But since it seems to be the defacto standard now I go with it.

The -20 (Summer rating) is good for a bit higher mpg, but given all the experience here and elsewhere it doesn't seem to be adequate for our rotary engines. A -40 is also a good Summer choice, but as we've had such a cool season thus far it too is a bit overkill.

Therefore, 5w-30 seems just right to me.

I also pre-mix 3.5 oz of Idemitsu 2-cycle oil per tankful of gas, just for extra apex seal lubrication insurance.

Thanks, Huey.

So, I decided to pick up a 5-quart jug of Mobil 5000 5W-30 ($13.99), a Bosch 3300 oil filter ($6.49), an F cap ($5.99), a 24" breaker bar ($11.99), an oil drain pan ($7.99), and a set of Rhino ramps ($39.99). I've always brought my car in to Liberty 128 Mazda for oil change, but starting today, I'm gonna do my own.

Looks like my first DIY oil change is costing me 2x what I normally pay for one @ the dealership...

Perhaps [2x cost; short term], but you're assured the job was well done and you got what you wanted, not to mention a sense of DIY satisfaction. Also, all the tools will amortize over time and provide other cost saving DIY opportunities.

Thanks, Huey.

So, I decided to pick up a 5-quart jug of Mobil 5000 5W-30 ($13.99), a Bosch 3300 oil filter ($6.49), an F cap ($5.99), a 24" breaker bar ($11.99), an oil drain pan ($7.99), and a set of Rhino ramps ($39.99). I've always brought my car in to Liberty 128 Mazda for oil change, but starting today, I'm gonna do my own.

Looks like my first DIY oil change is costing me 2x what I normally pay for one @ the dealership...

Perhaps [2x cost; short term], but you're assured the job was well done and you got what you wanted, not to mention a sense of DIY satisfaction. Also, all the tools will amortize over time and provide other cost saving DIY opportunities.

Right on!:yesnod:

Even though I spent way longer than what it should probably take--some two hours, but I'm very proud of myself that I was able to do it. It took me so long because I've never ever done any oil change on my own, despite having owned a few different cars.

Luckily, I read this thread from the beginning till the end. That's why I also bought a Fumoto drain valve. I can't imagine having to crawl underneath my car and try to unscrew the oil plug every time.

Next, I'm gonna attempt to change the transmission and rear differential fluids.

Any install a drain value on a 2009? Recommend a brand?

tips from ASH8
Series II (o9) RX-8's (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=12455&highlight=diy&page=13) have a different sump, different sump drain plug (flat hex), different location and different oil filter and location.
Genuine Mazda Oil Filter Wrench..
Part # 49G0-14-001

remove the 7 SILVER BOLTS that holds the SILVER
under body sump tray in 09's.

mazda oil filter ‘09 RX8 SKU N3R1-14-302

tips from Huey52
An 18" socket "breaker bar" is your friend when you have limited room and leverage. Available at Autozone and similar. Useful for the tranny and differential fluid changes as well.

For an '09, how about backing onto Rhino ramps (better anyway since the e-brake locks up the rear wheels), then jack stands on the front sills to level it.
Has this worked well? Sounds good to me but what the hell do I know?

Trying to get all the points straight I came across in the oil for dummies posts for series II (09). Going with RP 5w-30 from all outstanding info provided by rotarygod (when name fits like a glove).

Couple of quick questions is the flat hex plug 8 or 19mm and can you use the fumotovalve on ‘09? How much oil are ’09 taking on change 3.7 or 4.5 qt. what are you guys finding?

Any oil pics on ’09 would be helpful for a bona fide dummie.

Thanks for all help from the above and others that given out the all the nice pearls.

8 mm HEX Key for drain plug, I use 4.2 Litres with oil filter change.

Just adding my bit here since I got it done a while ago. Neither me and my mechanic friend could budge the filter, even with the correct wrench and a lot of other tools and tries. Finally he found a huge "industrial plier" that he locked on the filter and pulled it loose. Installed the new one and filled the oil, all was well. Should be a lot easier to get off next time, but wonder what the hell the mechanics did to put it on a year ago.

Ahhh just changed the oil on my car. Its the first time I have ever changed the oil on a car, and it was easy. But, damn the mazda guys wrenched the oil plug bolt on tight. I put in 10-30W because its really hot here, and man dose the car feel better. My old oil was dirty as hell!

I feel a bit dumd I've put about 4qt in my 8 with a full change filter an all so 4.5qt is normal?

Any advantages or disadvantages of using an oil vacuum pump.

The advantage is that it's a cleaner job and you don't have to get under the vehicle.

The disadvantage is that you don't fully drain the oil and there may be contaminants left in the bottom of the pan.

That disadvantage outweighs the advantage for me.

Any advantages or disadvantages of using an oil vacuum pump.

The advantage is that it's a cleaner job and you don't have to get under the vehicle.

The disadvantage is that you don't fully drain the oil and there may be contaminants left in the bottom of the pan.

That disadvantage outweighs the advantage for me.

Any data on this? I agree simple logic suggests that it isn't as efficient as removing the crud however a lot of high end dealers are doing this now. Saving money or just as good?

It's simply quicker and therefore more cost effective for those shops to use the 'vacuum.' Since time is not as much of an issue to DIY I say drain it.

Any data on this? I agree simple logic suggests that it isn't as efficient as removing the crud however a lot of high end dealers are doing this now. Saving money or just as good?

pics helped alot with the oil change... thanx

Hey guys!

3 days ago i bought me a 2004 Rx8 after some extensive research on this site. I've read a ton about the oil and there seems to be a lot of debate on what weight to use and whether synthetic is safe. I called the dealership and asked them all of the questions I've been meaning to ask. In order to not void my extended warranty, I stuck with what they recommend. I bought 4 quarts of Catrol GTX 5w20 oil. I used this thread to get the job done. After i changed the oil i noticed some strange smells, furthermore, now, when I'm in gear, there is a weird scraping sound. I let the oil settle in, and went for a drive 30 min after filling her up with 3 and 3/4s of the bottles. I let the car warm with 5 min of idling and 10 min of driving. When i got home, i revved the engine in the driveway and when i let off the gas it makes a strange popping sound, perhaps afterfire? I'm 90% sure the transmission sound and the popping were not present before the oil change. What gives? any ideas?

I just tackled my first oil change and I wish I had read this thread first. It seems I did everything right. great pics as well.

btw: an aside, but be glad we're changing oil on RX-8's and not Mazda6's. I did my daughter's ''6 this weekend and it's a PITA. First you have to remove a full under engine shroud that has eight screws in it. Then you have to get way under (what looks like it should be the oil sump near the filter is actually the AT fluid). Then the filter is a canister type (first year 2.3L model) and not near the oil pan drain so you have to reposition the drain pan. Could be the last time I do this.

/\ Well you are the lucky ones, we Series II owners have to remove a 7 long bolt aluminum Sump Guard to get to the oil filter..to replace it..

/\ Well you are the lucky ones, we Series II owners have to remove a 7 long bolt aluminum Sump Guard to get to the oil filter..to replace it..

I changed the oil and filter for the first time on my ’09 last month. Here’s what I do.

I park the car so that the front end is a little lower than the back because the drain is more forward than in most other cars.

Jack up the left side of the car. I use three 4X4 blocks of wood as my safety stands under the front suspension sub frame bolts. I’ll try to remember to take pictures next time.

I remove six of the seven sump guard bolts and swing the guard to the rear. This makes it easier to put the bolts back into the guard after you are finished working. You don’t have to hold and lineup the guard while trying to find the holes for the bolts

Using the “official” Mazda oil filter for the new ’09 filter, I put a little motor oil on the inside of the filter so that it can easily slide off after the filter is loosened initially. There’s not much clearance on the ’09 to remove the filter with the wrench attached.

I use a very low profile socket wrench as well due to the lack of clearance between the filter wrench and the frame of the car.

I remove the 8mm drain pug.

I lower the car so that it’s level for about ten minutes to help as much as possible for all the oil to drain out. Then I jack it back up and button everything up.

i just read the manual and saw on the racing beat website that the oil change should be done every 6months or 7500 miles (whichever comes first) is this true? I was under the impression that the oil change on any car should be done every 3 months/3000 miles. Can anyone clarify this for me?

This has already been "clarified" to death, but one more time ....

The 6 months/7500 miles is the 'by the book' service increment [for warranty adherence]. We enthusiasts view that as a worst case scenario and therefore opt for the 3k miles.

Ultimately the decision is yours.

i just read the manual and saw on the racing beat website that the oil change should be done every 6months or 7500 miles (whichever comes first) is this true? I was under the impression that the oil change on any car should be done every 3 months/3000 miles. Can anyone clarify this for me?

Series II (09~)Owners ....

You must use the original factory oil filter as ANY larger diameter filter will NOT Fit...

Is this still correct? I agree with the any larger/different diameter filter will NOT fit, but are the Series II still forced to use the Mazda oil filter, or just any filter specifically made for our car. Thought Ash was saying only the Mazda filter would work, but any made for '09s specifically should work, right? Hopefully the point was that we couldn't use larger filters that hold more volume, not that we were restricted to the Mazda specific filter

Why would you not use Mazda oil filters regardless of year car? We can't be talking more than a dollar or so for this critical item vs some aftermarket stuff.

???

Is this still correct? I agree with the any larger/different diameter filter will NOT fit, but are the Series II still forced to use the Mazda oil filter, or just any filter specifically made for our car. Thought Ash was saying only the Mazda filter would work, but any made for '09s specifically should work, right? Hopefully the point was that we couldn't use larger filters that hold more volume, not that we were restricted to the Mazda specific filter

Look, the S1 filter will fit or even the Mobil M1110, but, I am almost certain that none of these two have a high enough By Pass Value rating...I know an S1 definitely does not, as for the Mobil, well it also suits other Mazda's made 15 years ago, and the 09 was not out then, and if it was OK then why didn't Mazda use a filter they already had in stock??(JEY0-14-3029A)

The Mobil's M1110 and similar are the filter for Mazda MPV, 323,929, B Series (JEY0-14-3029A)...not an 09 RX-8.

I suggest you ONLY use the N3R1-14-302 which has been SPECIFICALLY Made for the S2 09 ONLY...and new 16X.

A larger Diameter Filter will NOT fit on an 09..

The Main Point is any other Filter made DOES NOT have the Correct (high) BY Pass rating of 20-26 PSI, most are half that.

I somehow doubt any other Manufacturer would make a similar filter for a CAR the sells 400 a month ...world wide.

I suggest you ONLY use the N3R1-14-302 which has been SPECIFICALLY Made for the S2 09 ONLY...and new 16X.



like that is going to happen?;)

beers :beer:

like that is going to happen?;)

beers :beer:

Care to put some $$'s on it??...:rollingla:rofl:

Care to put some $$'s on it??...:rollingla:rofl:

i would bet 10 us dollars. worth about 50 cents on the world market right now. :)

i really hope it does, as it might solve my what to do with my other car in the driveway..

if you have any interesting links i would love to see them.. i am pretty sure you know my email!

you have to start setting up the party at bretts! :)

beers :beer:

The Main Point is any other Filter made DOES NOT have the Correct (high) BY Pass rating of 20-26 PSI, most are half that.



Thanks for the clarification Ash. Reading through all the posts and your original post on the '09 filter made it sound that it was specifically a size/will it fit issue, not a BY Pass rating issue. Installed the Mazda filter yesterday so all should be good.
Compared the stock filter with a couple others at the local parts store that were listed as compatible and the aftermarkets were the same diameter, but shorter, thus less volume and probably not as good because of that as well.

HELLLLLP !!
I install the greddy oil filter relocation kit...I turn the car on.... and while warming, I heard "CHTAK" !!
I turn off the car and have oil all over the engine (and the floor) :mchase:

Ok, so what broke : the screw where the oil filter used to be broke into the greddy "plate".
I do not know why ... I might have done something wrong (the oil pressure at iddle was 5psi instead of 2).

My questions : where can I buy this part ? what is the name of this part ?
I hope to fix it as soon as possible !:icon_no2:

/\ I suggest put go back to Original Oil Filter Install...

IMO, and what has been shown in another thread extra oil lines are "reducing" your Oil Pressure.

If you must relocate your Oil Filter, I would be doing the Oil Pressure Upgrade...see Olddragger's post on his upgrade results.

I can't go back to the Original anyway : as long as I do not replace the broken part :'(
I'll search the OD's thread

the oil plug is stripped!! ...how do i get it out now??...FML:dunno: