Just changed my oil myself for the first time. It was cake. Thanks for the awesome instructions.

Oil Pan Drain Bolt: HE03-10-404
Drain Bolt Gasket: 9956-41-400

note that many fasteners have an odd appearing number like this gasket i.e. #99564-1400, this is a good part number but must be changed to the standard part number format xxxx-xx-xxx

Maybe i'm weird but i jus used my gorilla powers and turned the Oil Filter and got it off ... I must say thanks to whoever mentioned tapping the filter before removal, brilliant.

It worked like a charm, when i pulled only like two or three decent drops came out and I didn't even leave it that long either.

Hand pulled & Hand re-tightened, but then i'm built like a gorilla so...

I'd advise the weaklings to buy the F wrench :P

Btw, i did this oil change after 3k and we all know 5w20 syntec looks like Honey, my old oil is like molasses, i mean wat gives...

3k ??? might start changing @ 2k now, it looks awful.

just did this on Sun. thanks for the great instructions

Does anyone have a pic of their dip stick? Should I have a F for full and L for low?

Does anyone have a pic of their dip stick? Should I have a F for full and L for low?

should be two marks on the stick - use your powers of cunning and logic to figure out which is which ....

I finally took a hack at it! Instructions here were great. I've done oil change on my previous cars (all Subarus). before and I have to say due the weird position of the oil filter, it was a bit messy. Also I didn't raise the car so getting the drain plug out was tough. Not easy to leverage as the car is so low. But nevertheless, it's real straight forward. I think in the future, I am going to invest on a Fumoto Valve or those Fram SD2. Makes it much easier. And I used the OEM filters. These are blue canisters.

I finally took a hack at it! Instructions here were great. I've done oil change on my previous cars (all Subarus). before and I have to say due the weird position of the oil filter, it was a bit messy. Also I didn't raise the car so getting the drain plug out was tough. Not easy to leverage as the car is so low. But nevertheless, it's real straight forward. I think in the future, I am going to invest on a Fumoto Valve or those Fram SD2. Makes it much easier. And I used the OEM filters. These are blue canisters.

the Fumoto valve has saved me SO MUCH time and effort that would've been needed to lift car up and loosen bolt, and then find new washer and retighten bolt. Been using it for 81k+ miles, not one single issue

one of the best bang-for-buck 'mod' I've done for my 8 :)

this question is going to sound dumb, but... assuming you put a whole in the filter to let it drain, your going to need a new one right?!?! sorry its like 4 in the morning here and i wanta make sure im reading this right...

And im also guessing your supposed to change your oil filter every time you change your oil?

Some people put a hole in their filter so that air can go in so the oil will come out. I personally don't do that, it's just a preference thing.

For example, you have a 1 gallon container of milk, you turn it up-side-down and it comes out VERY slowly. If you put a hole on the bottom of the container, turn it up-side-down, it will come out nice and smoothly and alot faster.

And as for the second question, you absolutely have to replace your old oil filter with a new one, always. If you don't your oil will not flow nicely and you'll get alot of junk in your oil. Your oil filter can even clog itself and prevent flow if you don't change it.

Yes. That does sound stupid. If you have to ask a question like that, you shouldn't even be changing your own oil.

No need to do that

Just let ur car sit overnight.

no oil will be left in the oil filter.

Yes. That does sound stupid. If you have to ask a question like that, you shouldn't even be changing your own oil.


Not trying to sound rude fire but is this not a forum where you ask questions? im sure at a young age you had questions too my friend... we walk before we run...

I'm the one being rude. I'll admit. I apologize for it. But you're asking if you need to replace the oil filter if you punch a hole in it. Stop and think about that for a second.

I am having the hardest time trying to get the drain plug out. I cannot for the life of me get that thing to even budge. Any words of wisdom? I mean I get the socket on there, and pull as hard as I can and the socket will just pop off and the bolt hasn't moved a millimeter. when I looked at it, the bolt looks like it is kind of deep into the hole, like it was massively over-tightened by the Mazda dealership last time I got it done. this is a great DIY by the way, just can't get that dang drain plug off.

i have been doing my oil changes for a while now! i have always used castrol GTX, i was wondering if one of you guys might recommend a better oil, if there is one! thanks for the help!....

OMG serious answer. Oil brand and weight are subjective here on the forum...use whatever you want, hell use the search bar too. It holds infinite answers to this question.:icon_no2:

castrol gtx is fine

HELP!!! Noob question. -Please dont flame me(puts on flame suit) but I need to change the oil filter. -Of course the car isnt running but will it cause air bubbles or something? Just completed an oil change but would like to try a different filter.

Thanks.

Wow. You have taken noob to another level. LOL!!!!!

Of course you can change the oil filter. It should be done EVERY time you change the oil. Unscrew the existing one and screw on a new one. Nothing special to do before or after. Some people recommend an oil filter cap style wrench (F-size), but I never use em. Just my hands the whole way. It's a tight fit back there, but I've done it many many times now.

Thats Mr. Noob to you son!

Thanks FireBirddude.

First time changing the oil on the 8 myself, and I must say...a pleasure. Much better than trying to take off the filter/plug of the 7's considering the idiots that had done it prior to me getting the car...everything came off so easily.

<3

Hey guys...I own a 2007 Series II RX-8 manual as seen on my signature. I have replaced four quart of oil every time. It is still have a half quart left from full mark. Just curious on how you guys did every oil change.

I don't know what you are asking.

Q. Are you asking how much oil it takes to fill the car up after an oil change?

A. That is going to vary on how much you get out, if your oil was low to begin with and so on. I usually refill my oil once every 1500 miles or so to top it off. At 3000 miles It is low again but instead of adding any I just do an oil change. I usually get about 4-5 quarts of oil out this way. The oil system holds about 8 quarts of oil if you include what is in the oil coolers and lines.

To fill a set amount every time you change the oil like I think you are doing is not a good idea. Buy 5-6 quarts so you will have enough. Drain the oil out and change the filter. Fill up the oil until the dipstick reads that it is full. Warm up the car and then let it sit for 5 minutes. Now check your level again. It should be low since some of the oil you just put in is now in the filter. Now take that extra quart or so you have left and fill the car up to the fill mark. Now you are done.

As for the extra oil you have left, it can be used to fill the car up after it burns some. I usually buy 6 quarts and have about 1 left that I keep in the car to keep the oil topped off.

Thanks for your reply. In short, the amount of oil being changed over the drain level should be constant regardless of the oil level remaining in your enigne. In my case, it will take me 4.5 quart to fill it up to FULL level. In your case, you meant 5 quart minimum, right? One quart left to spare, right?

Is it bad if I lost the crush washer and then put the drain plug back without one?

Is it bad if I lost the crush washer and then put the drain plug back without one?

technically no, but it may leak. its a 50 cent part that they sell at autozone/advance auto parts, so not really that difficult to find.

technically no, but it may leak. its a 50 cent part that they sell at autozone/advance auto parts, so not really that difficult to find.

Haha, yes. But if I take the drain plug out to put the crush washer on.... well... you know what will happen next.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=90879&highlight=oil

read this,,

and the filter is going to make a bit of a mess whatever you do..

beers :beer:

Read that (and this entire thread) - and have a question about the whole tilt-a-whirl ride many people seem to be giving their cars to get more of the old oil out. What's the difference between tilting the car sideways from each side to try to drain the oil coolers vs. having the nose in the air either via centrally jacking the front up or driving up on ramps (my preference) and giving the car plenty of time to drain? Either way seems to put the oil coolers well above the drain plug.

You'll end up with some dirty oil trapped in the back of the pan behind the drain plug, but that seems acceptable to me assuming this (ramps) gets more oil out of the coolers.

Later,

Luke

Good thread thank you. from the mechaniclly challenged!!

Don't forget....

Series II (09~)Owners ....

You must use the original factory oil filter as ANY larger diameter filter will NOT Fit...
Oil filter is located at the bottom of the front Timing Cover, you have to remove the silver Sump Guard (7 Bolts) to get at the filter...REPLACE Guard When Done.

I highly recommend you order from your dealer the Genuine Mazda Oil Filter Wrench..
Part # 49G0-14-001
There are not expensive, and the easiest way to remove the oil filter as you cant get your hand in there.

The sump drain PLUG is also different, it is a recessed type and you MUST have an 8mm HEX/Allen Type LONG key to remove it...

Crush washer is the same as Series I RX-8's...

Maybe someone can post photos of the pieces needed to be removed in order to get to the filter and drain plug.

One other question... does the plastic cover under the engine need to be removed in order to get to the filter and plug, and, can everything be removed and the oil and filter be changed using a pair of typical drive-on ramps?

Thanks

Maybe someone can post photos of the pieces needed to be removed in order to get to the filter and drain plug.

One other question... does the plastic cover under the engine need to be removed in order to get to the filter and plug, and, can everything be removed and the oil and filter be changed using a pair of typical drive-on ramps?

Thanks

Ah, should have done it when I did it - will do next time. What plastic cover ? The front bumper lip ? You need to remove the silver sump guard to access the oil filter.

Typical drive-on ramps, yes.

Maybe someone can post photos of the pieces needed to be removed in order to get to the filter and drain plug.

One other question... does the plastic cover under the engine need to be removed in order to get to the filter and plug, and, can everything be removed and the oil and filter be changed using a pair of typical drive-on ramps?

Thanks

Can't you read ^^^^ mate... ;)

The ONLY thing you have to remove are the 7 SILVER BOLTS that holds the SILVER
under body sump tray in 09's....that is all...to get to oil filter.

I suggest you look under your car where the engine is and look.

Did I say you had to remove any plastic? :banghead:

NO YOU DON'T...

BTW Welcome to the club.

BTW. The Engine is Behind the front wheel line to-wards the dashboard.

Ash

Thanks for the quick response guys. It was impossible for me to see much of the engine while peeking under the car in the showroom. There wasn't much room to squeeze underneath.

I just looked under the car and I see the "sump guard", about 1.5 by 1.5 ft in size, just behind the "plastic splash shield" that I referred to earlier.

When removing the sump guard, both the filter and the drain plug will be accessible, right?

I just got the car, so I won't be changing the oil for a while, but I'll try to remember to take photos when I do the job. I'll get a 8mm allen wrench "long key" socket adapter, so that I'll be able to use my socket wrench. I assume that little handheld wrenches might not break loose the 8mm drain plug when trying to remove it.


Also noted the cable to the 02 sensor; the cable hangs a little low, need to be careful about obstacles in the road. May add some type of wire "hanger" to at least get it flush with the underbody. May decide to purchase oil cooler guards before a pebble makes a hole in them. Have a link, anyone?

Again, thanks to all.

When removing the sump guard, both the filter and the drain plug will be accessible, right?

Right.



Also noted the cable to the 02 sensor; the cable hangs a little low, need to be careful about obstacles in the road. May add some type of wire "hanger" to at least get it flush with the underbody. May decide to purchase oil cooler guards before a pebble makes a hole in them. Have a link, anyone?


Search is your friend:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=86185
http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=11808 (if yours is 09)

Right.




Search is your friend:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=86185
http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=11808 (if yours is 09)

Thanks again. Will practice using search for this forum as I get used to navigating this forum.

technically no, but it may leak. its a 50 cent part that they sell at autozone/advance auto parts, so not really that difficult to find.

Autozone one is okay.... slightly thicker and bigger, S2000 is even closer, I'll post some comparison measurements and pictures next time.

I got under the car this weekend and removed the sump guard. It's easy to get to the drain plug, but the filter is wedged off to the side of the drain pan. I bought the filter wrench but I'm thinking that because the filter is "recessed" into it's attachment point, that it's going to be a mess removing it, with a lot of oil dripping out onto the frame members that are in the vicinity. One would have to leave a lot of rags or paper towels over these frame members because I just don't see how it's not going to leak a lot of oil in the removal process. It looks almost impossible to get paper towels around the filter where it screws into the block, because there's so little room here.

Comments anyone?

Yeah, after you do it once and drip oil on the ground, then you know exactly where to place to pan to catch the drippings.

Sorry I didn't read the entire thread but I'm in a bit of a hurry. I checked my oil for the first time at the gas station this afternoon (a habit I'm trying to get myself into) and noticed that it was at about the last dot from the bottom. I'm about 1500 miles away from the next oil change, do I need to add more at this point? i've noticed the oil pressure needle is a little higher than when I first got it. Any estimate on how much more I would need to put in if needed?

Sorry I didn't read the entire thread but I'm in a bit of a hurry. I checked my oil for the first time at the gas station this afternoon (a habit I'm trying to get myself into) and noticed that it was at about the last dot from the bottom. I'm about 1500 miles away from the next oil change, do I need to add more at this point? i've noticed the oil pressure needle is a little higher than when I first got it. Any estimate on how much more I would need to put in if needed?

Well since the oil pressure sensor is a dummy light, its impossible for it to change. The only change that it would be is if you are totally out of oil, then its not happy with you. Personally I would put in a quart, and be sure to check it more often, especially with heavy driving.

I got under the car this weekend and removed the sump guard. It's easy to get to the drain plug, but the filter is wedged off to the side of the drain pan. I bought the filter wrench but I'm thinking that because the filter is "recessed" into it's attachment point, that it's going to be a mess removing it, with a lot of oil dripping out onto the frame members that are in the vicinity. One would have to leave a lot of rags or paper towels over these frame members because I just don't see how it's not going to leak a lot of oil in the removal process. It looks almost impossible to get paper towels around the filter where it screws into the block, because there's so little room here.

Comments anyone?

You have a Series II also!.. I have done 3 changes so getting used to it, the filter is hidden away isn't it.

IMO the Mazda genuine oil filter tool cap is the go for loosening, but you still need your hand to remove it, and yes a little mess.
49G0-14-001 is the Mazda wrench. ONLY for the S2 size filters.
Make sure you replace your silver sump guard.

Do you have to reset the computer after doing the oil change? If so, how?

Do you have to reset the computer after doing the oil change? If so, how?

what computer?

Do you have to reset the computer after doing the oil change? If so, how?

I rebooted my Mac (inside the house, not in the car) everytime I changed the engine oil in my 8. Soooo that proves that my Mac can survive without reboot for 3K miles (in my case that's around 3 months) :lol:

I meant the ECU, I had to do this with my old car.

No reset rquired, there is no warning light or monitor involved.

S

I'm one of these dummies. With the amount of space after jacking the car and putting a jackstand there I couldn't budge the oil pan plug laying on my belly :P Any tips? It's extremely hard to get any momentum in that position, do you guys use a sturdy extension or something? The mechanics that did it last time probably used air tools.

An 18" socket "breaker bar" is your friend when you have limited room and leverage. Available at Autozone and similar. Useful for the tranny and differential fluid changes as well.

I'm one of these dummies. With the amount of space after jacking the car and putting a jackstand there I couldn't budge the oil pan plug laying on my belly :P Any tips? It's extremely hard to get any momentum in that position, do you guys use a sturdy extension or something? The mechanics that did it last time probably used air tools.

You have a Series II also!.. I have done 3 changes so getting used to it, the filter is hidden away isn't it.

IMO the Mazda genuine oil filter tool cap is the go for loosening, but you still need your hand to remove it, and yes a little mess.
49G0-14-001 is the Mazda wrench. ONLY for the S2 size filters.
Make sure you replace your silver sump guard.


I also noticed that the drain plug is at the front of the oil pan as oppossed to the usual rear of the pan. So, doesn't it seem like the car neeeds to be level when draining the oil? This would make me think that drive-on ramps are not the ideal solution for this car.

Check the photo in the very first series of DIY posts in this thread. You're off by 90 degrees. ;)

I also noticed that the drain plug is at the front of the oil pan as oppossed to the usual rear of the pan. So, doesn't it seem like the car neeeds to be level when draining the oil? This would make me think that drive-on ramps are not the ideal solution for this car.

Check the photo in the very first series of DIY posts in this thread. You're off by 90 degrees. ;)

Series II (o9) RX-8's have a different sump, different sump drain plug (flat hex), different location and different oil filter and location.

Yep; I didn't follow the full thread flow.

Ramps are great for 2004 - 08 btw.

Series II (o9) RX-8's have a different sump, different sump drain plug (flat hex), different location and different oil filter and location.

Please note: The 2009 RX 8 is completeley different in oil change procedure from earlier cars.

Drive on ramps will not work with this car.

Here's one method. Since the oil drain plug is towards the front of the oil pan, you will need to jack up the car so that it is at least level, if not slighlty angled down towards the front of the car in order to drain the most amount of oil.

I will use two floor jacks at the front of the car. I will posistion the car so that it takes advantage of the slight downward angle of my driveway. After I remove the filter and the drain plug, I'll carefully lower the car so that the oil pan is angled down as much as possible, for a few minutes. Then I'll jack up the car again, replace the filter, drain plug and sump guard.

For an '09, how about backing onto Rhino ramps (better anyway since the e-brake locks up the rear wheels), then jack stands on the front sills to level it.

Please note: The 2009 RX 8 is completeley different in oil change procedure from earlier cars.

Drive on ramps will not work with this car.

Here's one method. Since the oil drain plug is towards the front of the oil pan, you will need to jack up the car so that it is at least level, if not slighlty angled down towards the front of the car in order to drain the most amount of oil.

I will use two floor jacks at the front of the car. I will posistion the car so that it takes advantage of the slight downward angle of my driveway. After I remove the filter and the drain plug, I'll carefully lower the car so that the oil pan is angled down as much as possible, for a few minutes. Then I'll jack up the car again, replace the filter, drain plug and sump guard.

when i first bought my car one of the rx8 guys told me if im out of warrenty to change to 10w30 bad i dead or good?

"Check the oil every other fill up. It's designed to use oil. Change the oil every 3000 miles like clockwork. If it's out of warranty, my opinion is to switch to 10W30."

Autozone one is okay.... slightly thicker and bigger, S2000 is even closer, I'll post some comparison measurements and pictures next time.

Autozone: $0.59, #095-015.1

Thickness: 2.00 mm
Inner Dimension (ID): 14.52 mm
Outer Dimension (OD): 24.10 mm

Honda S2000: $0.19 (cheapest found online, shipping not included), according to the site, 6-pack of washers Honda's Retail $2.10. Their price for 6-pack is $0.96. Supplied by friend with S2000 in my case.

Thickness: 1.85 mm
Inner Dimension (ID): 14.31 mm
Outer Dimension (OD): 21.75 mm

Mazda: $0.99 at my local dealerships.

Thickness: 1.54 mm
Inner Dimension (ID): 14.32 mm
Outer Dimension (OD): 19.82 mm

despite the generalized claims in this thread, the newer Fram "Tough Guard" is considered an acceptable replacement oil filter, most Walmarts carry it

It's what I use, but my filters get change by the # of races, not miles

It's generally accepted on this board that 5w-20 is too thin and only Mazda 'recommended' to improve their fleet mpg rating.

Most switch to 5w-30, 10w-30 or 10w-40 dependent on region. I roll 5w-30 Castrol GTX.

Switching to a higher viscosity oil will not void your warranty anyway as 1) again, 5w-20 is only recommended, not required and 2) a dealer couldn't tell the difference anyway.

when i first bought my car one of the rx8 guys told me if im out of warrenty to change to 10w30 bad i dead or good?

"Check the oil every other fill up. It's designed to use oil. Change the oil every 3000 miles like clockwork. If it's out of warranty, my opinion is to switch to 10W30."

thanks great diy example...

It's generally accepted on this board that 5w-20 is too thin and only Mazda 'recommended' to improve their fleet mpg rating.

Most switch to 5w-30, 10w-30 or 10w-40 dependent on region. I roll 5w-30 Castrol GTX.

Switching to a higher viscosity oil will not void your warranty anyway as 1) again, 5w-20 is only recommended, not required and 2) a dealer couldn't tell the difference anyway.


Huey,

Do you use 5W-30 year round? What are the advantages of 5W-30 over 5W-20?

Yes I do. But then I only run my '8 in the Winter on sand/salt/snow free weekend days.

Actually the 5w (Winter rating) is a bit overkill in our area. How many days does it get down to 5 degf? But since it seems to be the defacto standard now I go with it.

The -20 (Summer rating) is good for a bit higher mpg, but given all the experience here and elsewhere it doesn't seem to be adequate for our rotary engines. A -40 is also a good Summer choice, but as we've had such a cool season thus far it too is a bit overkill.

Therefore, 5w-30 seems just right to me.

I also pre-mix 3.5 oz of Idemitsu 2-cycle oil per tankful of gas, just for extra apex seal lubrication insurance.

Thanks, Huey.

So, I decided to pick up a 5-quart jug of Mobil 5000 5W-30 ($13.99), a Bosch 3300 oil filter ($6.49), an F cap ($5.99), a 24" breaker bar ($11.99), an oil drain pan ($7.99), and a set of Rhino ramps ($39.99). I've always brought my car in to Liberty 128 Mazda for oil change, but starting today, I'm gonna do my own.

Looks like my first DIY oil change is costing me 2x what I normally pay for one @ the dealership...

Perhaps [2x cost; short term], but you're assured the job was well done and you got what you wanted, not to mention a sense of DIY satisfaction. Also, all the tools will amortize over time and provide other cost saving DIY opportunities.

Thanks, Huey.

So, I decided to pick up a 5-quart jug of Mobil 5000 5W-30 ($13.99), a Bosch 3300 oil filter ($6.49), an F cap ($5.99), a 24" breaker bar ($11.99), an oil drain pan ($7.99), and a set of Rhino ramps ($39.99). I've always brought my car in to Liberty 128 Mazda for oil change, but starting today, I'm gonna do my own.

Looks like my first DIY oil change is costing me 2x what I normally pay for one @ the dealership...

Perhaps [2x cost; short term], but you're assured the job was well done and you got what you wanted, not to mention a sense of DIY satisfaction. Also, all the tools will amortize over time and provide other cost saving DIY opportunities.

Right on!:yesnod:

Even though I spent way longer than what it should probably take--some two hours, but I'm very proud of myself that I was able to do it. It took me so long because I've never ever done any oil change on my own, despite having owned a few different cars.

Luckily, I read this thread from the beginning till the end. That's why I also bought a Fumoto drain valve. I can't imagine having to crawl underneath my car and try to unscrew the oil plug every time.

Next, I'm gonna attempt to change the transmission and rear differential fluids.

Any install a drain value on a 2009? Recommend a brand?

tips from ASH8
Series II (o9) RX-8's (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=12455&highlight=diy&page=13) have a different sump, different sump drain plug (flat hex), different location and different oil filter and location.
Genuine Mazda Oil Filter Wrench..
Part # 49G0-14-001

remove the 7 SILVER BOLTS that holds the SILVER
under body sump tray in 09's.

mazda oil filter ‘09 RX8 SKU N3R1-14-302

tips from Huey52
An 18" socket "breaker bar" is your friend when you have limited room and leverage. Available at Autozone and similar. Useful for the tranny and differential fluid changes as well.

For an '09, how about backing onto Rhino ramps (better anyway since the e-brake locks up the rear wheels), then jack stands on the front sills to level it.
Has this worked well? Sounds good to me but what the hell do I know?

Trying to get all the points straight I came across in the oil for dummies posts for series II (09). Going with RP 5w-30 from all outstanding info provided by rotarygod (when name fits like a glove).

Couple of quick questions is the flat hex plug 8 or 19mm and can you use the fumotovalve on ‘09? How much oil are ’09 taking on change 3.7 or 4.5 qt. what are you guys finding?

Any oil pics on ’09 would be helpful for a bona fide dummie.

Thanks for all help from the above and others that given out the all the nice pearls.

8 mm HEX Key for drain plug, I use 4.2 Litres with oil filter change.

Just adding my bit here since I got it done a while ago. Neither me and my mechanic friend could budge the filter, even with the correct wrench and a lot of other tools and tries. Finally he found a huge "industrial plier" that he locked on the filter and pulled it loose. Installed the new one and filled the oil, all was well. Should be a lot easier to get off next time, but wonder what the hell the mechanics did to put it on a year ago.

Ahhh just changed the oil on my car. Its the first time I have ever changed the oil on a car, and it was easy. But, damn the mazda guys wrenched the oil plug bolt on tight. I put in 10-30W because its really hot here, and man dose the car feel better. My old oil was dirty as hell!

I feel a bit dumd I've put about 4qt in my 8 with a full change filter an all so 4.5qt is normal?

Any advantages or disadvantages of using an oil vacuum pump.

The advantage is that it's a cleaner job and you don't have to get under the vehicle.

The disadvantage is that you don't fully drain the oil and there may be contaminants left in the bottom of the pan.

That disadvantage outweighs the advantage for me.

Any advantages or disadvantages of using an oil vacuum pump.

The advantage is that it's a cleaner job and you don't have to get under the vehicle.

The disadvantage is that you don't fully drain the oil and there may be contaminants left in the bottom of the pan.

That disadvantage outweighs the advantage for me.

Any data on this? I agree simple logic suggests that it isn't as efficient as removing the crud however a lot of high end dealers are doing this now. Saving money or just as good?

It's simply quicker and therefore more cost effective for those shops to use the 'vacuum.' Since time is not as much of an issue to DIY I say drain it.

Any data on this? I agree simple logic suggests that it isn't as efficient as removing the crud however a lot of high end dealers are doing this now. Saving money or just as good?

pics helped alot with the oil change... thanx

Hey guys!

3 days ago i bought me a 2004 Rx8 after some extensive research on this site. I've read a ton about the oil and there seems to be a lot of debate on what weight to use and whether synthetic is safe. I called the dealership and asked them all of the questions I've been meaning to ask. In order to not void my extended warranty, I stuck with what they recommend. I bought 4 quarts of Catrol GTX 5w20 oil. I used this thread to get the job done. After i changed the oil i noticed some strange smells, furthermore, now, when I'm in gear, there is a weird scraping sound. I let the oil settle in, and went for a drive 30 min after filling her up with 3 and 3/4s of the bottles. I let the car warm with 5 min of idling and 10 min of driving. When i got home, i revved the engine in the driveway and when i let off the gas it makes a strange popping sound, perhaps afterfire? I'm 90% sure the transmission sound and the popping were not present before the oil change. What gives? any ideas?

I just tackled my first oil change and I wish I had read this thread first. It seems I did everything right. great pics as well.

btw: an aside, but be glad we're changing oil on RX-8's and not Mazda6's. I did my daughter's ''6 this weekend and it's a PITA. First you have to remove a full under engine shroud that has eight screws in it. Then you have to get way under (what looks like it should be the oil sump near the filter is actually the AT fluid). Then the filter is a canister type (first year 2.3L model) and not near the oil pan drain so you have to reposition the drain pan. Could be the last time I do this.

/\ Well you are the lucky ones, we Series II owners have to remove a 7 long bolt aluminum Sump Guard to get to the oil filter..to replace it..

/\ Well you are the lucky ones, we Series II owners have to remove a 7 long bolt aluminum Sump Guard to get to the oil filter..to replace it..

I changed the oil and filter for the first time on my ’09 last month. Here’s what I do.

I park the car so that the front end is a little lower than the back because the drain is more forward than in most other cars.

Jack up the left side of the car. I use three 4X4 blocks of wood as my safety stands under the front suspension sub frame bolts. I’ll try to remember to take pictures next time.

I remove six of the seven sump guard bolts and swing the guard to the rear. This makes it easier to put the bolts back into the guard after you are finished working. You don’t have to hold and lineup the guard while trying to find the holes for the bolts

Using the “official” Mazda oil filter for the new ’09 filter, I put a little motor oil on the inside of the filter so that it can easily slide off after the filter is loosened initially. There’s not much clearance on the ’09 to remove the filter with the wrench attached.

I use a very low profile socket wrench as well due to the lack of clearance between the filter wrench and the frame of the car.

I remove the 8mm drain pug.

I lower the car so that it’s level for about ten minutes to help as much as possible for all the oil to drain out. Then I jack it back up and button everything up.

i just read the manual and saw on the racing beat website that the oil change should be done every 6months or 7500 miles (whichever comes first) is this true? I was under the impression that the oil change on any car should be done every 3 months/3000 miles. Can anyone clarify this for me?

This has already been "clarified" to death, but one more time ....

The 6 months/7500 miles is the 'by the book' service increment [for warranty adherence]. We enthusiasts view that as a worst case scenario and therefore opt for the 3k miles.

Ultimately the decision is yours.

i just read the manual and saw on the racing beat website that the oil change should be done every 6months or 7500 miles (whichever comes first) is this true? I was under the impression that the oil change on any car should be done every 3 months/3000 miles. Can anyone clarify this for me?

Series II (09~)Owners ....

You must use the original factory oil filter as ANY larger diameter filter will NOT Fit...

Is this still correct? I agree with the any larger/different diameter filter will NOT fit, but are the Series II still forced to use the Mazda oil filter, or just any filter specifically made for our car. Thought Ash was saying only the Mazda filter would work, but any made for '09s specifically should work, right? Hopefully the point was that we couldn't use larger filters that hold more volume, not that we were restricted to the Mazda specific filter

Why would you not use Mazda oil filters regardless of year car? We can't be talking more than a dollar or so for this critical item vs some aftermarket stuff.

???

Is this still correct? I agree with the any larger/different diameter filter will NOT fit, but are the Series II still forced to use the Mazda oil filter, or just any filter specifically made for our car. Thought Ash was saying only the Mazda filter would work, but any made for '09s specifically should work, right? Hopefully the point was that we couldn't use larger filters that hold more volume, not that we were restricted to the Mazda specific filter

Look, the S1 filter will fit or even the Mobil M1110, but, I am almost certain that none of these two have a high enough By Pass Value rating...I know an S1 definitely does not, as for the Mobil, well it also suits other Mazda's made 15 years ago, and the 09 was not out then, and if it was OK then why didn't Mazda use a filter they already had in stock??(JEY0-14-3029A)

The Mobil's M1110 and similar are the filter for Mazda MPV, 323,929, B Series (JEY0-14-3029A)...not an 09 RX-8.

I suggest you ONLY use the N3R1-14-302 which has been SPECIFICALLY Made for the S2 09 ONLY...and new 16X.

A larger Diameter Filter will NOT fit on an 09..

The Main Point is any other Filter made DOES NOT have the Correct (high) BY Pass rating of 20-26 PSI, most are half that.

I somehow doubt any other Manufacturer would make a similar filter for a CAR the sells 400 a month ...world wide.

I suggest you ONLY use the N3R1-14-302 which has been SPECIFICALLY Made for the S2 09 ONLY...and new 16X.



like that is going to happen?;)

beers :beer:

like that is going to happen?;)

beers :beer:

Care to put some $$'s on it??...:rollingla:rofl:

Care to put some $$'s on it??...:rollingla:rofl:

i would bet 10 us dollars. worth about 50 cents on the world market right now. :)

i really hope it does, as it might solve my what to do with my other car in the driveway..

if you have any interesting links i would love to see them.. i am pretty sure you know my email!

you have to start setting up the party at bretts! :)

beers :beer:

The Main Point is any other Filter made DOES NOT have the Correct (high) BY Pass rating of 20-26 PSI, most are half that.



Thanks for the clarification Ash. Reading through all the posts and your original post on the '09 filter made it sound that it was specifically a size/will it fit issue, not a BY Pass rating issue. Installed the Mazda filter yesterday so all should be good.
Compared the stock filter with a couple others at the local parts store that were listed as compatible and the aftermarkets were the same diameter, but shorter, thus less volume and probably not as good because of that as well.

HELLLLLP !!
I install the greddy oil filter relocation kit...I turn the car on.... and while warming, I heard "CHTAK" !!
I turn off the car and have oil all over the engine (and the floor) :mchase:

Ok, so what broke : the screw where the oil filter used to be broke into the greddy "plate".
I do not know why ... I might have done something wrong (the oil pressure at iddle was 5psi instead of 2).

My questions : where can I buy this part ? what is the name of this part ?
I hope to fix it as soon as possible !:icon_no2:

/\ I suggest put go back to Original Oil Filter Install...

IMO, and what has been shown in another thread extra oil lines are "reducing" your Oil Pressure.

If you must relocate your Oil Filter, I would be doing the Oil Pressure Upgrade...see Olddragger's post on his upgrade results.

I can't go back to the Original anyway : as long as I do not replace the broken part :'(
I'll search the OD's thread

the oil plug is stripped!! ...how do i get it out now??...FML:dunno:

subscribed. Finally going to not be lazy and do this myself. Save some cash.

Noob question. My car has been in winter storage for the last 4 months. Do I have to warm the car up first to change the oil. Or since its bone cold, can I just simply go to work on the oil change. To me it doesnt make sense to start it up, warm it, let it cool, then start.

^ Just drain it. As you indicated it makes no sense to circulate the oil only to then drain it. At the moment you've got as much oil in the pan as you possibly can, so great time to just drain it. [presuming series I] the filter is as dry as it can be as well which makes things easier.

Do I really need a new crush washer? My dealership dont have them in stock. And I'd like to get this done this weekend. Can I reuse the old one? If not what size of washer can I substitute for it? I'm guessing I can find a washer that will fit.

^ Nope, Although it's a good idea to go with a new one, if your existing is in good shape it should be fine. Heck, you'll be changing it again in 3k miles anyway. ;)

btw: I get a half dozen filters at a time from Finishline and Tommy always includes the washers.

Guess I won't need a new crush washer now that I just installed a brass drain valve. ;)

Oil changed to Castrol GTX 5w-30 and Mazda filter of course.

The DIY isn't clear, and I'm a complete newbie, so I want to clarify. The instructions say to let the car cool for a few minutes, does that imply that you should warm the car up first? Is there anything wrong with changing the oil while the car completely cold?

I like to change my oil when the car is warm. The reason is warm oil drains faster then oil that is cold. The instructions state you should let the car cool for a few minutes because the engine is hot and they do not want you to burn yourself. I like to wear a crappy sweatshirt to protect my arms when replacing my oil filter. Also when you take the drain plug out the oil is hot and could burn you if you do not let cool or wearing the proper protection.

There were a few threads over the past year that talked about oil extractors. There was actually one post early in this one, but just one. I went and bought one, and thought I would share...

I got the yellow electric one of ebay. I offered less than the asking price, and they took it. I got it a few weeks later. I can tell you that on the 8, it is grand. No washer, no under the car, no jack, I get as much oil out as I did before. The fact that the car is now an inch lower makes this all the more wonderful.

It is so easy that I am considering trying an oil flush, or at least a partial flush. It would involve changing the oil (pump out, refill), then run the car for 10 minutes (mix old and new oil), let sit to drain filter, then change again with filter.

First change should get rid of 4 quarts of dirty oil, and leave about 2.5 in the coolers and lines. So oil is about a third dirty. The next change should get rid of half of the third dirty oil, leaving only a little of the original dirty oil, or something like that.

That make any sense?

On the topic of the pump.... I had to change the master cylinder on the expedition, 32 ounces of brake fluid. hooked it up instead of the little hand pump brake bleeder. Freaking WOW. It will pull about 5 inches of vacuum. Enough for the big lines on the Ford. Did not do so well with the little lines on the 6. Will see on the 8 next time around.

Guess I won't need a new crush washer now that I just installed a brass drain valve. ;)

Oil changed to Castrol GTX 5w-30 and Mazda filter of course.

That looks like it sticks down kind of low?
I would be worried about debris on the road smacking it and opening the valve.
What do you think?

Guess I won't need a new crush washer now that I just installed a brass drain valve. ;)

Oil changed to Castrol GTX 5w-30 and Mazda filter of course.


This is AKA Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, I have one my my car... makes oil changes soo much faster, unfortunately my car is still too low to be able to reach it by hand and to have the oil pan under the car because my car would crush the oil pan lol. I still have to jack my car up but this makes it so much better than having to actually put the car on stands and break loose the drain plug.

If you are Stock height this valve will allow you to reach under your car and open the valve with your hand with the drain pan underneath you car. Oil change should take 5 minutes...

^ Yup; I'm at stock height and all I had to do was reach under and flip the spring-loaded Fumoto valve lever (low profile oil drain pan). Easiest oil change ever!

btw: I did it cold for a change and I must say having a dry oil filter on a Series I is a big plus in the cleanliness department. Of course it took quite awhile for the oil to drain (cold and smaller valve orifice), so I changed my daughter's Mazda6 'plugs.

Not really. The Series I aft O2 sensor shield, forward of and in-line with the valve is lower, so no worries. It would take the perfect storm of impact to turn the spring-loaded/detent valve lever.

That looks like it sticks down kind of low?
I would be worried about debris on the road smacking it and opening the valve.
What do you think?

Okay... I still cannot find the oil filter and it's been 3 hours, I have a 2008 RX8 Sport. I have looked for manuals (chilton, Haynes) and found nothing. I also cannot locate any good pdf's showing location of parts on the vehicle.

My old vehicle was a 1993 Jeep wrangler that had the oil filter down low and was about 2x the size of my fist and white, aka obvious. So going from that to the mazda with it's small filter I'm assuming on the left side of the engine but I get it from the top side? Also any pictures I see seem very close up and it's hard to tell where that's at still other than the one on this site which shows that it's near the air filter?

So my question is do any of you guys know of some pictures on the internet that show the RX8 filter with a wider view?

Also is the only paper repair manual around the one that cost a whopping $200? That's only 1,000 percent more than the cost of my jeep manual... literally.

Thank you for your time,
Cheese

^lol, pop open your hood, now stand on the drivers side of the engine bay locate the throttle body, now look down just a lil futher to where the coils are at, then to the right of that should be the oil filter.

http://oi52.tinypic.com/2myzvdk.jpg
http://oi55.tinypic.com/xpd0ep.jpg
http://oi51.tinypic.com/wcmiio.jpg

I also would like to add that this is a automatic if it makes a difference. The only thing I see down there is the starter and solenoid.

See if this helps. Item 1 in the attached drawing. Between the back of the engine and the firewall.

If I remember correctly, it's the little green thing behind the UIM.
I've circled it in red

168190

If not that, then it's near that.

This looks like a series 2 motor in the pictures (see dipstick location & design). Important distinction. On the series 2 motors the filter is not up top, but has been relocated and is accessed under the car after removing the aluminum shield. It is located on the driver side of the motor towards the front. It is a bit awkward to see and get to, as it is surrounded by an engine casting on one side and frame member on the other. But, it is easy enough to replace with the proper filter cap tool.

Here are some pictures :

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2821116&postcount=161
http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2896274&postcount=259
http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=3270343&postcount=1

The green object was actually something else; Pete was correct, it is a series II motor. Thank you for all the feedback and pictures.

The only problem now is I put 2 quarts in and the dip says it has 3-3.5 liters? Must be because I drained it on some auto ramps, still not used to this whole car thing... my jeep was lifted 6 inches and had 33 inch tires... never had to think of ways to crawl underneath. Not only that but when I used a jack it bent my chassis slightly X.x.. not bad but just a little.

Not only that but when I used a jack it bent my chassis slightly X.x.. not bad but just a little.

Some people use "race ramps", while others use jack stands. I use a small floor jack on the front crossmember (there's a bump with a hole in the middle as an indicator), then support it on 2 jackstands at the front factory jack points on each side. These are indicated by the reinforced lip underneath the rocker panels, with little cutout indicators on the backside of the lip. These jack points are not immediately obvious. Owner's manual shows the general locations, and I believe there are detailed pictures elsewhere on this site.

I want to run synthetic oil, I would think it is even more important to remove all of the old oil when changing oil type. What I am wondering is if there is anything more I can do to remove all of the existing oil before I make the switch and also is there anything else I need to know before doing this. I have read all of the stuff about elavating the front of the vehicle etc to drain oil coolers so what I am talking about is beyond that, what can I do?

Anyone use an oil filter magnet? Wondering if it's worth the money... http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/oil+changes/oil+filter+metallic+shaving-particle+retainer.do?search=basic&keyword=oil+filter&sortby=newArrivals&page=1

Also, do the 2009+ Mazda brand oil filters work with the 04-08 models? Planning to buy some OEM filters in bulk and would like to know if the new larger ones fit our older models.

Any reputable online dealers for the Fumoto drain valves? I just ran into this one on google... http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=307

Thanks :)

^ I've debated using a filter magnet. It certainly couldn't hurt, but given 3k mile oil changes not really necessary. Seems to me it would be most advantageous on a brand new engine.

There's very limited space around the 2004-2008 oil filter so doubtful a larger one would work. Just get the series-1 in bulk from say finishlineperformance.com (aka Rosenthal Mazda; forum sponsor).

That's where I got my Fumoto valve. http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Se...ts.asp?Cat=307
Make sure to get the extension coupling cited.

I remember installing a larger Fram/Purolator brand filter once... but I guess the OEM should do just fine :) Thanks.

http://www.shopfiltermag.com/products.php

Nice post, I think it so important to change your own oil, I do mine about every 4,000 miles rather then 3,000 as the car is doing a lot of miles so I still end up doing it every 2-3 months. Definitely remember to oil the filter seal I forgot first time and had to smash of the top of the filter get down to the solid metal base the places a screwdriver bit in one of the holes, put a long bar against it then beat the #*&% out of it with a hammer after about 50 blows the remains of the filter finally turned.

I take mine to Jiffylube. I hate to be oily.

I used an oil extractor yesterday (Mityvac) and got almost 4 liters (probably 3.9 L) oil out of the engine. Not bad, and the process was really simple. I let it sit for a few minutes after pumping out the oil and I didn't even get any oil spilled when removing the filter.
Altogether it was really easy, although access to the filter is a bit tricky, especially if you have big hands to put on the filter cap wrench. But if you got the proper extensions and a swivel joint, it is no problem.

First time I had a oil change after I got my 8 was at walmart, second time was by myself. Difference between walmart and me was that I waited to remove the oil filter. They removed it and got oil on the engine. For about 2 months I could just smell it cooking off the engine.

Took me around maybe an hour and a half to do the oil change myself because I could not get enough leverage loosen the drain plug. Walmart had tightend the drain plug so tight that crush washer was one with the plug. I did the oil on gravel. Dug a hole for the catch pan and room for a 18in ratchet for leverage.

hi... i been wanting to change my rx-8' by myself for some time already what oil do you recommend for this car ? thx

I recently started jacking up the car on one side and drain it until no drip then jack up the otherside until no drip. I didn't measure how much extra I got out but it was quite a bit maybe 3/4 of a quart. The oil filter is so easy to remove. I grab a piece of sandpaper, stick my hand in there and it's off in seconds. Thing is, I can only bend my arm 60% due to a war wound. Anybody who has trouble removing it is out of their mind. I'm at 222K and change it every 3500 miles. Only thing else I have done was change the plugs. It has cranked everytime. I'm completely satisied with the car. My wife's 325i is awful. For one, no dipstick and you can't get the right amount of oil exactly because it only measures by QT on the computer. I hate that car.

I cannot get the oil filter off, how can you do it easily?

Are you sure you're turning it the right way? Just put some muscle into it and it should come off. If you're having trouble with grip try either a oil filter socket or the sandpaper idea or get a pair of grippy mechanix gloves at autozone/walmart/whatever.

I cannot get the oil filter off, how can you do it easily?

It's on too tight. You will need the filter cap and a decent extension/rachet this time around if you can't get it with your hand. Oil places always put them on too tight. After that you should have no problem.

I cannot get the oil filter off, how can you do it easily?
If the rubber seal was not oiled before the new filter was placed on the car the seal can stick making it extremely difficult to get the oil filter off. When I first changed my oil, the filter it was stuck. After several fail attempts using oil filter removal tools, I ended up smashing off the soft top part of the filter leaving the hard metal disc (the part that has the thread). I then place the end of a screwdriver in one of the holes and placed a metal bar against the screwdriver and hit it with a hammer. After about 20 hits with the hammer it started to turn and I managed to remove it. Good luck!

If the rubber seal was not oiled before the new filter was placed on the car the seal can stick making it extremely difficult to get the oil filter off. When I first changed my oil, the filter it was stuck. After several fail attempts using oil filter removal tools, I ended up smashing off the soft top part of the filter leaving the hard metal disc (the part that has the thread). I then place the end of a screwdriver in one of the holes and placed a metal bar against the screwdriver and hit it with a hammer. After about 20 hits with the hammer it started to turn and I managed to remove it. Good luck!

That must have been fun. Good point, that's a critical step that can cause undo hardship if skipped. When I was a kid I worked at a full service station and when that happened we would puncture a screwdriver threw the filter and turn it. Usually that got it.

I just did my first oil change in my new (to me) 8. It really wasn't too bad. The only real problem I had was getting the oil filter off, and that was only because whoever did an oil change before had tightened the damn thing so much that it took forever to get it off. That, and my hands are big and it took a little bit to get a good grip on it. Anyways, this is the first oil change I've done myself in years, so if I can do it anyone can.

I did my oil change the other day, everything seemed to go pretty smoothly, although the oil plug was on pretty tight, I ended up just putting a short length of PVC pipe that I had over the end of the wrench for extra torque and it loosened right up, the only problem that I had was that the last oil change, apparently they used the bigger oil filter, so the filter wrench I had was useless, luckily my father had one of those claw type oil filter wrenches kicking around and that worked like a charm. Probably the hardest part of the whole process was transferring the used oil from the pan I let it drip into, in to sealable containers so that I can bring it to Autozone.

I just bring my drip pan to Autozone and never an issue. It's the low profile type that can be fully sealed and I of course wipe down any stray oil prior. They just dump the used oil into a tank so no need for other containers. I hand it to them when I walk in and it's ready to go when my shopping is complete.

...Probably the hardest part of the whole process was transferring the used oil from the pan I let it drip into, in to sealable containers so that I can bring it to Autozone.