I am considering adding the Koyo Radiator and was looking for feed back.

It's good? :dunno:

Perhaps you should ask a better question to get better answers...

technically there is no question.

koyos are good. but do you really need the upgraded performance? i could see if you track your car or have that nice SC in your sig.

if he has SC without upgraded Rad, I would have to say go search NOOB

theres actually no question.

searching

Pettit recommended a radiator upgrade to compliment their SC in one of their threads.

edit: should have quoted Nrider in my response

I'm thinking that he knows this and he wants to know if anyone has the Koyo one ao that they can give him feedback on whether that specific radiator is a good choice.

I am getting a Koyo put on in a week along with my turbo kit. Will post back with reviews. Its posed to be the best with PWR close behind.

I have Koyo, I installed it myself.

Pretty happy with it.

thanks just making sure it is a good choice

take it for what its worth, but ive seen a lot of people upgrade to koyos on 7club

this probably doesnt relate, but i had a koyo in my 240, helped the sr20 overheating issues ALOT,

what exactly are you doing that justifies making this change?

well I drive quite a bit during the day. Also I am toying with I don't know if it's even possible to dual charge add a turbo plus the S/C I currently have.

I just ordered it.

I'm sure you will not be dissapointed...

well I drive quite a bit during the day. Also I am toying with I don't know if it's even possible to dual charge add a turbo plus the S/C I currently have.


what?

beers :beer:

The Koyo is a great investment! I purchased it due to the hot AZ temps during the summer and so far have seen at least a 20 degree difference over the stock radiator. While others with a similar performance setup run average temps of 210 degrees, I often operate between 180 and 200...even lower with the fan mod.

Money well spent.

i agree with swoope.... uhhh whaaaa?

I think he meant twincharger (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twincharger), I've seen it done on a 4AGZE (AW11/MR2 engine) on an AE86 which later on bacame a 20 valve - 4AGZE (link) (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/lane/1231/page2.html) (20V-4AGZE link) (http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/lane/1231/20-valve.html). And back when I had my FC, I think alienauto (http://www.alienauto.com/) in WA started a twincharged 13B project for their shop but i'm not quite sure if they finished it at all.

yea i mean i have heard of it beign done and in fact that is the first time i have actually seen but i mean how feasable is it really... to me its like throwing money out the window... if you wanted more power you probably should have went with the turbo or i would have done a 3 rotor install.... now that would be impressive... especially with what scott in mazsports doing omg

it's gonna sound really weird (referring to dual charge).

yea i mean i have heard of it beign done and in fact that is the first time i have actually seen but i mean how feasable is it really... to me its like throwing money out the window... if you wanted more power you probably should have went with the turbo or i would have done a 3 rotor install.... now that would be impressive... especially with what scott in mazsports doing omg

maybe he wants to be the first guy with a twincharged renesis? I don't see anything wrong with that, granted that he knows what he's getting himself into and provided that he has the time, ability. source and pockets deep enough to support this project.
it might sound weird or not logical right now but you'll never know until you try. who knows what might just come out of his experiment/project. could be something great, well if it's bad then at least we get the heads up to avoid it or better yet somebody might have a better idea and improve what he has started...

sorry, back to the topic... yeah, I used to have aKoyo radiator on my FC and AE86 and using infrared thermometer, I compared the before and after temps coming from the radiator. I got at least 10deg F difference with the Koyo and the stock FC radiator and same for the AE86.

Has anybody installed it in an 8 I'd like to know how long it takes.

shouldnt take that long at all... you have most of the parts out of the way...

Munch, do you have any more pics of your engine bay?

is it easy to self install a rad?

yeah i mean it shouldnt be that bad... just make sure you drain the system first

is it easy to self install a rad?


It's relatively easy...but a PIA. You need to remove the undertray..and then I found it easier without the intake and battery and stuff.

Not difficult....but time consuming

so basically, front bumper off, undertray off, then intake and batt out?

so basically, front bumper off, undertray off, then intake and batt out?

Shop manual is your friend.

Took me a few hours. because some parts is a *BITCH* to pull them apart.

It might be more trouble than it's worth. Don't forget you have two heat exchangers that are currently sitting in front of your stock radiator which will add some PITAness (tm) to the job.

The intercooler should provide you enough extra cooling while you're driving around during the day that you really shouldn't worry about overheating. This thing is always working, regardless of whether or not you are under boost. If you bought the radiator you should send it back and save your money.

As far as adding a turbo is concerned. If you really want a bunch more HP, you're going to need a lot more work done on your car than upgrade the radiator to handle that amount of power. Just wait a few months and get the 8psi pulley/tune and you'll be making close to 300 rwhp... that's enough for me.

LOL !!!!

alright, I dont think you have any idea what you're talking about buddy.

Stock cooler sure is good enough for regular street driving, but for people who track/autoX, or simply just wanna go *fast* all the time. stock cooler not going to cut it.

I had mad water boiling problems with my stock cooler before, and yes Im one of those *I wanna go fast* kind of people. switched to koyo rad couldnt be happier.

The job is not hard at all, might take a bit longer for first timer. worst part is just the hose, its really hard to get them off.

LOL !!!!

alright, I dont think you have any idea what you're talking about buddy.

Specifically point out what...cause they both have the pettit kit and the kit also installs a pair of heat exchangers in front of your stock rad...

So please be more specific so I can properly address your statement...

=)

EDIT: Thanks...ninja-edit skillet FTW

The intercooler should provide you enough extra cooling while you're driving around during the day that you really shouldn't worry about overheating.

Uh, charge cooling has little to no positive effect on coolant temps.
In fact, a cooler intake charge under load will put more heat into the cooling system because the denser charge will yield greater heat output from the combustion process (probably a marginal difference, though).
Especially the air/water type exchanger which will saturate and act like an air heater in front of the rad most of the time, not to mention the blocking of positive airflow through the rad.

LOL !!!!

alright, I dont think you have any idea what you're talking about buddy.

Stock cooler sure is good enough for regular street driving, but for people who track/autoX, or simply just wanna go *fast* all the time. stock cooler not going to cut it.

I had mad water boiling problems with my stock cooler before, and yes Im one of those *I wanna go fast* kind of people. switched to koyo rad couldnt be happier.

The job is not hard at all, might take a bit longer for first timer. worst part is just the hose, its really hard to get them off.

Hope you're not referring to my post, but if you are, read it again. We both have the same SC setup, with the air/liquid intercooler, which works VERY well.

Uh, charge cooling has little to no positive effect on coolant temps.
In fact, a cooler intake charge under load will put more heat into the cooling system because the denser charge will yield greater heat output from the combustion process (probably a marginal difference, though).
Especially the air/water type exchanger which will saturate and act like an air heater in front of the rad most of the time, not to mention the blocking of positive airflow through the rad.

This is good to know, but in over a month of driving around here in Florida (and driving hard) I have yet to have to add any fluid to the radiator or the intercooler. Which leads me to believe that the car is running plenty cool, considering some days the ambient temps have reached 90+ consistently over the past couple of weeks.

This is good to know, but in over a month of driving around here in Florida (and driving hard) I have yet to have to add any fluid to the radiator or the intercooler. Which leads me to believe that the car is running plenty cool, considering some days the ambient temps have reached 90+ consistently over the past couple of weeks.

I was referring to your post.

Let the counter start ! I want to know how long your motor will last.

and when it blows up, please dont blame Mazda.

1100 smile-filled miles and counting

This is good to know, but in over a month of driving around here in Florida (and driving hard) I have yet to have to add any fluid to the radiator or the intercooler.

Which means nothing.

Which leads me to believe that the car is running plenty cool, considering some days the ambient temps have reached 90+ consistently over the past couple of weeks.

Bad conclusion. You may be running cool, but this is not a method of determining that.

Specifically point out what...cause they both have the pettit kit and the kit also installs a pair of heat exchangers in front of your stock rad...

So please be more specific so I can properly address your statement...

=)

EDIT: Thanks...ninja-edit skillet FTW

my point was that, stock setup already running hot hot hot hot hot hot.

I know that the pettit kit has heat exchangers, but is it really enough to cool it down ?

We will find out.

1100 smile-filled miles and counting

That does not mean its running ok. Sure its running now. but usually mechanical breakdown = owner's fault.

You cannot have cancer in 1 day, it builds up and kill u out of nowhere.

Which means nothing.



Bad conclusion. You may be running cool, but this is not a method of determining that.

What if I throw in the fact that my engine temp meter has not gone any higher than it did before I went FI? That enough of an indicator?

What if I throw in the fact that my engine temp meter has not gone any higher than it did before I went FI? That enough of an indicator?

engine temp meter ?

Dont get me wrong, Im saying this for your own good. Cuz seriously, i dont want you to have any problems down the road you know.

What if I throw in the fact that my engine temp meter has not gone any higher than it did before I went FI? That enough of an indicator?

Nope. The temp gauge doesn't even start to move until it is over 230°F.
The OEM temp range is already dangerously hot as it is shipped (the OE thermostat doesn't even open all the way until 205°F!), so by the time you have gauge deflection, you are already saturated.
Optimal power and engine longevity is found between 185°F and 205°F, give or take 5°F.

engine temp meter ?

Dont get me wrong, Im saying this for your own good. Cuz seriously, i dont want you to have any problems down the road you know.

Not getting you wrong. Otherwise I would have been an asshole in my responses. Just trying to learn as much as I can here.

Nope. The temp gauge doesn't even start to move until it is over 230°F.
The OEM temp range is already dangerously hot as it is shipped (the OE thermostat doesn't even open all the way until 205°F!), so by the time you have gauge deflection, you are already saturated.
Optimal power and engine longevity is found between 185°F and 205°F, give or take 5°F.

So you're saying the stock temp gauge is worthless and the only real way to know what's going on is to get an aftermarket temp gauge?

Not getting you wrong. Otherwise I would have been an asshole in my responses. Just trying to learn as much as I can here.



So you're saying the stock temp gauge is worthless and the only real way to know what's going on is to get an aftermarket temp gauge?

errr ..... You dont have one ?!?!?!?!?

GO GET ONE now before its too late.

the stock is junk and when it really *moves more than middle*, your motor is already running way too hot.

Even I am going to get one, and Im running stock motor with Koyo Radiator.

I like Mechanical ones better than electric. each of their own I guess, oh get a good one tho, dont go for cheap stuff. and while you're at it you might want to upgrade your Radiator and Radiator hose at the same time.

The OE gauge is there to tell you that you've already crossed into dangerous territory and have mere seconds before engine damage. Especially if you live in a hot climate. The difference between "overheating" and "engine death" is just 20°F of coolant temp and in an arid environment, there is a huge difference in cooling efficiency from 100°F to 110°F ambient.

Either an aftermarket temp gauge, or run a CAN scanner on your in-car PC would be useful.

Bastage - you really can't know if you have an overheating problem unless you have a proper temp gauge installed . You are probably OK for cruising around town with the odd boosted run but give it stick for any length of time & I doubt your stock cooling system would cope . If you ever take it to the track I would advise fitting a temp guage and watch it closely .

edit : not too closely though - important to stay on the track :)

i have said it once and i will say it again. "NO ROTARY ENGINE SHOULD BE RUNNING WITHOUT REAL GAUGES". Dont get me wrong--not flaming anyone here.
The stock cooling systems(coolant and oil) can work well(even on track) without FI, but it is on edge. With FI and all the money and effort that goes along with it--a wise man will strengthen the other engine systems. Sorta of like body building the biceps only and not doing any other muscle group. Sooner or later you will have trouble.
olddragger

Has everyone forgotten about the Mazsport cooling kit mod? I highly recommend it.

Unfortunately, the Mazsport mod (and similar fan operational mods) only keeps your median temps lower under normal conditions.
Once you start to really put heat into the system in hot conditions, it will still over-heat.
In a nutshell, under conditions where overheating is inevitable, this mod will not abate the issue.
You can run the fans all you want - if you are putting more heat into the system then it can dissipate, it will overheat.

Increasing the system's heat rejection capacity is the only thing that will help.
Greater rad area, bigger, higher flowing fans, bigger oil coolers, more efficient ducting, etc.

talking of which, who makes a big front mount oil cooler for the 8?

So far my cooling solutions are :
1. Koyo Rad
2. Greddy underslung oil pan for increased oil cap.
3. ? oil cooler improvement??

bump

from dyno experience i have found that real power in the engine starts at 210 degrees and maybe you loose 1-2 hp around 240 degrees.

the rx8 just loves the heat

from dyno experience i have found that real power in the engine starts at 210 degrees and maybe you loose 1-2 hp around 240 degrees.

the rx8 just loves the heat

Interesting. I found in fairly limited drag experience that times drop a few tenths every 10°F or so over 190°F.
I won't push the car at all over 230°F.

Interesting. I found in fairly limited drag experience that times drop a few tenths every 10°F or so over 190°F.
I won't push the car at all over 230°F.

It is odd. At all of my dynos the greatest power has been had by running the 8 up to three times without a cool-down period.

Not to say that all rx8s are alike. Who knows, some one may go 1 degree over 230 and may have massive detonation.