Ran on exterior dyno on a hot day with no air source.
My point was not to get peak performance, although no surprises there... but to see how power was spread, do any of you get the same slump between 6-7k? It really cuts the cars' swing.

Can is bone stock with 5000miles 2004 model.
3rd gear run.

Comments?

 

looks normal enough to me...haha hard as hell to read though so i'm not sure if i'm seeign it right :p

there are two power dips normaly..it's when teh secondary and tertiary ports open...there is a lill drop b/c teh car runs a lill rich here to prevent detonation by not having enough fuel when all that extra air rushes in...

i coudl eb wrong though but that is my understanding of it...hopfully if i missed the mark someone will chime in D:D

 

what flash are you on ???

 

why 3rd gear? 5th is 1:1?

 

^hehe yea he would've shown a lill more power if it was 5th (probable mid - high 180's)

 

would somebody save the pic, then attach it in a reply? I can't view the image...damn work filter

 

Pathetic, isn't it? Mazda should be ashamed to produce such a great car without sufficient power.

Yes, my 2004 does 'zactly the same thing. The Canzoomer & REVi have helped a bit, but I can't be having a so-called 'sports car' that is slower than my wife's Subaru wagon!

It's turbo time for me. This car deserves mo' power.

 

It seems like most people are ticked off becasue Mazda lied about the car NOT having 238Hp.

With so many people unhappy, why isnt Mazda doing anything?

Can we do anything about this?

 

Please post your A/F chart

 

I think they are, to a certain extenet. It seems the new flashes are giving people a little bit better/ more consistent power. The problem seems to be voltage irregularities of the MAF sensor though. A tuned CZ car (about 200 whp) seems to be where the stock car should have been.

 

I don't wan't to sound like a newb, but i guess i have to...
"How do I get an A/F chart drawn up?"

funny because i was thinking of getting a few gauges, and i insist on a A/F. Some strange mixin' is afoot i believe.

 

Amen. It really deserves to push more. but I see no real good turbo kits worth buying

 

I know i'm not up to date. There has been a recall for the car regarding the flash. I must go and have it done. How do I get the version number myself?

 

how can you tell what flash you're on? I'm going to the mazda dealership tommorow and I want to tell them to upgrade it if it needs to be.

 

rez-8 thats a perfectly normal dyno. that "dip" you refer to is as it should be. if you had a problem at that rpm then the power wouldnt get back up at all. now having said that- you could probably shorten the dip by getting a piggyback and doing a little a/f tuning at that point.

 

somebody please save that image, and attach it to a reply??? please?? :D

 

here dmp had to shrink it a bunch. hope its still readable.

 

Thanks, Z - that'll do just fine.

 

trouble with piggybacks are the ecu compensates for it in time and you have to reset it(no big thing) and you have to have multiple maps according to the weather/temperature to maintain optimal tune. too damn much mantainace for me. Wait til warrenty is gone then i guess FI.
olddragger

 

You get your A/F readings when you get a dyno run. You either have the option for a A/F reading or not. So, you did not get one with your dyno from the looks of it.

For gauges you could get a A/F but its mostly pretty lights. A Wideband, or EGT (Pyrometer) gauge would be good.

 

OK, i'm new to this dyno stuff, but why don't they plot real world driving? First gear to redline, shift to second also to redline (or close to for both, hitting the rev limiter is a mis-shift), then third.

 

Sometimes they do. Third or 5th is about where you will get your most power.

Remmber these are just snap shots in time, not tuning.

 

I don't think riding the dyno in first gear is a good idea.