So it has been some time since I been on. I started having issues where I couldn't get the car to start, Then unfortunately I got hurt and the car sat. I worked on it the other day, replaced the coils plugs and wires and replaced the old gas in the tank. With all of the new stuff I still had the same problems. It will start and barely stay running if I keep feathering the pedal. It barely runs though and then backfires multiple times. It will not stay running if I don't keep feathering the pedal. This is the same thing it did in the fall where the cat turned red hot from the gas burning in it.

I was going to cut the bolts and open the seam between the downpipe and cat to see if releasing the pressure helped. My next guess was a clogged cat. Any suggestions would help.

Thanks...

 

A glowing cat is never great news, but feel there's something else preventing you from idling. Cat problems tend to show up at high rpm first. Any codes?

 

^^
P0420 code sometimes will confirm a bad cat.
If it comes up, you can be sure you'll need a new one.

 

I will check today and see what it shows. It will barely run I thought for sure new coils and plugs would help but it runs really bad. Next I was going to try the MAF sensor next. I guess the gas is passing through and getting lit in the cat. If there is anything else I should look for let me know. Ill try to post a video

Thanks

 

Did you change the wires?
Most of us do them all together every 35K or so.
Be sure you didn't cross any wires and they are 'snapped' on the coils & plugs.

Check that the wires are separated with a loom and not arcing against each other or on the engine.

 

Ill check those now. I also looked at the OMP. There was a large amount of "oil" gunk all over the OMP and plugs. I thought it was always from the vent tube that's why I installed the catch can. I tried removing the OMP plugs to see if there was corrosion or something but couldn't figure out how to disconnect them. The plug wires are new and I installed based off the diagrams for plug installation. As far as the loom I don't think they are in there. Im still waiting on my code reader to check for manufacturer codes.

 

So I rewired the coils and plugs. they are now correct and in the loom. The car did start and I was able to get it to 4500 rpms but it still won't stay running and still backfires. I checked for codes with a scanner that supports the needed protocols and supposedly work with this car.

Autel MaxiScan MS309 compact pocket code reader supports all OBD2 protocols: KWP2000, ISO2000, ISO9141, J1850 VPW, J1850 PWM and CAN
But it returned no codes at all. What do you think I should look for next. Even though I cleaned I still see some old oil gunk at the bottom like on the cam shaft position sensor. Could this be that sensor? Or an exhaust sensor? Also what is the trick to removing these plugs? I tried to remove the plugs off the OMP just to check for corrosion but wasn't able to get any apart.

any help would be great I'm not sure where to look without codes.

thanks

 

Yeah you can give the ESS (what you're calling the camshaft position sensor I think) a clean. It's next to the front pulley.

Maybe I assumed the check engine light is on. Is it? And no codes are detected?

 

Well from what i remember yes. I can keep it running long enough to have all dash lights turn off. Is there a trick to taking these plugs off because I can't seem to get any of them apart or off of the components and I don't want to break them

 

Well I disconnected the catch can and the was minimal oil. I finally got a code out of this thing. P2004 manifold runner control stuck open bank 1a.

From what I've been reading that is the APV. Is this something that I can mess with to see if it helps with this issue? I believe it's on the bottom of the intakes correct is this just one of those parts that you take out replace and forget it. I would just like to make sure that this is probably what's causing the problems before I start spending money on things I don't need. Any advice would be great

 

That's a clue for sure. A bit surprised it just showed up now, but it's in the ballpark for symptoms. Unfortunately it's not the funnest job if it has to come out. If you can get to the APV motor, you can either give it a 12V source and see if it cycles, or take out the motor and try to turn the valve by hand. At least try to close it, to see if the car starts better. Thr ECU does a self test on the APV every time you start it, so there's a chance it'll get stuck again, but I can't think of another way to check if that's the issue.

If it's really stuck, I'm afraid the engine will have to come out to get it in and out.

 

Does anyone have a video link on how to get this out? Also is the a trick to getting these connectors off. I can't seem to get them to unlatch.

**Update: so I got underneath and was able to see if that motor was cycling. I clicked the car on and off a bunch of times and was able to feel it move but it did not move every single time. Is it supposed to? The car actually idled this time for a while before it stalled. Still backfired but I was able to keep it running. Very rough. I'm going to pull the plug off and see if it moves when I put a small 12 volt battery to it. If it cycles in both directions I guess I should assume it's the wire? I also got the same p2004 error. Any thoughts would help.

 

I've seen posts on spraying sea foam in an "auxiliary port" to free up the valves. Where is that port?

I've cleaned up the plug and it seems that every time I shut the key that motor cycles again.

 

I suppose they mean the aux intake ports. If you have the UIM off, you'll see 2 holes side ny side in the middle, which are the primary intake path, and 2 other holes kinda assumetrically placed around the LIM. Those lead to the aux ports through the APV

 

I cleaned any plugs I could find. I found a corroded one by the battery negative. I tried to start it and it does run. I actually got it up to 5k, extremely rough. Then it went down to 3k. I just about will idle. I checked and I had the P2004 two times in that run so I assume the APV valves are sticking. Does anyone have a creative way to get the top bolt out of the AVP motor? The hard pipe nuts are extremely corroded and there is no chance of getting them off. I thought of disconnecting the top of the pipe but I don't expect there is any flex there. I found an earlier post with the same issue but they didn't say how they got that top left bolt out to remove the AVP motor. You can see the bolt in the picture below.

What are these? do they give me any access to the UIM to get some sea foam in there? (sorry I wasn't sure how to resize)

 

Those are service ports for decarb treatment. They're in the primary runners so not much use for the APV. I would just remove the UIM and Seafoam down the aux ports, then let it sit and have the motor turn the valves once in a while without starting the car. Not a lot of Seafoam.

 

I took off the UIM and I see vdi valve. I sprayed down into the intake and have had it sitting for a long time. There is a huge amount of carbon in there. I've been cycling the ignition as you said. I can't hear anything unfortunately over the chime( which I was trying to shut off temporarily). Im not sure if they are moving. Picture below should be the VDI valve correct? Does this have to be rotated to get the seafoam down to the AVP?

If

Tomorrow I'm going to try to charge the motor with a battery and see directly. What are the correct pins to make the motor turn in each direction? If the valves were stuck would it still be possible for the motor to cycle. I know when I had my hand on it I could feel it cycle.

 

So I cleaned the VDI valve. There was a huge amount of carbon on it. Now it moves freely.

I sprayed seafoam down the intakes to get it down to the APV. The ports that are closed of by the VDI are the auxiliary ports to the APV correct? Also how would I know if the valves are actually moving? The motor feels like it is spinning. I wanted to pull the motor to check everything but haven't figured out how to get the rear bolt out. The hardpipe is rusted on.

Thoughts?

 

No, They are not.
they are investigation ports. originally intended to be used for diagnostic.
Later used for PCV system.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...2006-a-271374/

Obviously, it can be used to shove whatever you like as you want

 

So just building off the same thread. I've been soaking the valves and I think I have them freed up. I used a automotive stethoscope and listen to the motor for the APV valves. When the key is turned off I hear a ticking in the motor and then it cycles and turns off is that normal?

I also listened to the back side of the LIM and it sounds like those valves are cycling. Being I can't get the motor off because of the hard pipe is there any way to double check before I put this whole thing back together and try and start the car?