Im super pumped to be getting my first rx8 this coming monday. Im coming from a 2003 Mercedes slk230. The rx8 I am getting is a 2011 with 60k miles. I cant wait to get it. Im only 19 which I know is pretty young and this cars a big responsibility, but bc the selling price of my slk was more then the price of the rx8, I can budget extra for rx8 expenses. It will also be my first manual transmission car, as I recently started learning how to drive one. I know its super annoying on forums to ask questions that can be easily searched, so I have done as much research and reading as I can on this forum to avoid that. Particularly theres a really long post for new or potential buyers that is super super helpful. I am currently just trying to get a compression test (can that only be done at a mazda dealership?) and a pre purchase inspection. I was thinking I might just have both inspections done at the Mazda dealerships if you guys think thats a good idea, then we will see from there. Oh and if anyone has any major thing besides the compression test that I should look for please lmk. One of the things I am most excited for is to learn a bit more about working on the car myself. There is a lot of helpful posts on here that I think will really help me out in that. But ya I am just super excited to get this car, and wanted to just make a post about that.

 

There are DIY rotary testers available for not much more than the dealer will charge you.
It's very important to get it tested unless you have a $5000 budget for a new engine.

They will run good with failing engines, taking longer and longer to start when hot, then one day won't start at all.

If you did test drive it, did you try to start it when it was hot?
If it takes longer, that's a dead giveaway the engine is dying.

 

Oh i will for sure get it tested. Its a bit of a drive so I wont even go see the car until its tested. And no I havent test driven yet. And sorry, when you say if I test drove it when it was hot, do you mean if the engine was already warmed up?

 

Correct.
When the engine is cool it's contracted, when it gets hot it expands allowing the loss of compression.
If you do test drive it, stop it afterwards and restart it. If it takes longer, it's likely dying.
However they can be failing and start fine.
Mine did. I brought it in for the airbag recall and had it tested just out of curiosity.
I was shocked when they told me it failed.
It wasn't long until I started having the hot start issues.

 

Oh I gotcha. So essentially I should see how the car starts cold correct? Ideally have the car off and not running for a bit and then try starting it,

 

Other way round. Start seeing signs of compression loss when engine is hot, turned off, then restarted. Good you’re getting the compression test done. I walked from one that was on the way out since the owner wouldn’t come down on price.

 

The reason why the engine is the main worry is both how common it is and how expensive it is to fix. Even if just one corner or apex seal is the problem, it requires a complete rebuild to fix. It's not like you can just replace a piston and you're done. The repairs will cost easily what the car is worth.

 

Sorry Im just trying to make sure I understand. So when the car is hot and warmed up, turn it off and then back on and see if it takes a long time to start up?

 

Ya that is what I hear. Im spending about 8k so I wouldnt want that to happen. Is the compression the only test I gotta do to see the health of engine? That and seeing how it starts up warm? Or are there others I should also do.

 

Yes, once the car is operating temperature, the metal will have expanded enough to identify a failure. If it takes longer to start hot then cold, it's likely an issue with compression.

 

Compression is the main test but I would also do a block test to make sure the coolant jacket seals are also intact. At minimum, a compression test will tell you the current condition of the engine. It's the gold standard test to preform before purchasing one of these cars.

 

Do you guys think 8k for a 2011 with 60k miles is a good deal?

 

Yes if the engine and the car itself are in good shape.