Posted over on tech forum, but this is the more appropriate place to ask these questions.

Had an engine swap and had the car back early March. The battery was replaced, alternator checked out. Started up and ran flawlessly for a month and a half. I work shift work at a water treatment plant and I worked a double shift from Saturday at 4pm- Sunday at 8am. I get in the car to start it and it was very slow to crank, but it started up, drove it 7ish miles home just fine. Got in to go back to work at 4pm and it was slow to crank again; worse actually. Finally, tonight at midnight I went to start it and it barely cranked. Stopped and tried again and all I have is clicking. Battery isn't fully dead, just not enough to start the car.

At first I chalked it up to the past two cold nights here in the northeast. Very well could have a bad cell that just became evident with the cold temps? March had cold plenty of cold nights so I'm not sure here. If the alternator was bad, the car wouldn't have been drivable, correct? Could an alternator be bad, but still be able to run the car?

 

make sure trunk isnt open

 

If the alternator was bad, it probably would not have been drivable, but it depends on the total distance driven. Plus, the battery light should be illuminated if this is the case. But NYC is right, check the trunk

 

+1

they really should have put a trunk dimmer delay on the trunk lighting since it draws a rediculous amount of amps.

and have the battery tested as well, new doesn't always mean good.

 

Thanks all. It was a bad battery which I had replaced under warranty. The battery was stickered 2/13 and already has a bad cell. Also had them check out tire/wheel that was losing air and I have a bad tire pressure sensor on the back passenger side wheel... Weee!

 

My wife had a sweet Maxima before she traded it for stoopid Venza.
It had a battery cut-off (?) after 2 hrs if lights were left on. Does anyone know if there is a way to easily incorporate that, or is it too complicated?