{WTB} RE-medy Water Pump
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 189
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From: Dover, PA
RE-medy Water Pump
Category: Engine - Intake/Fuel
Price: $0
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Part Fits (you may select multiples): Series II
Item Condition: Used
Really? What kind of temps were you seeing? I bought one anticipating going FI, but highest temp I've seen on-track was at VIR a few weeks ago - 225 F with stock cooling system. And that was in 90+ ambient.
It's a worthy upgrade - if you have the money get it. But if you are seeing high temps now, something else may need a looking-at.
It's a worthy upgrade - if you have the money get it. But if you are seeing high temps now, something else may need a looking-at.
Thread Starter
Rotary Addict
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 189
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From: Dover, PA
I am interested in it as a longevity mod for the car. Last month I was seeing peak temps of 208 F. The oil temps were slightly higher but they usually stayed around the water temperature. These temps were recorded during the middle of the day right after lunch. Ambient temp was about 80 F.
here:
The car spontaneously overheated on a short trip after a cold start. I used my laser thermometer and found that, while the block and t-stat housing were 210°F or so (on a 60° day after 4 or 5 miles), the radiator and associated plumbing were only 80° - 90°.
So, I took the t-stat out and this is what I found:
Not only is it physically mangled somehow (I suspect the seat seal was not designed for constant high RPM/high flow and it was forced up and out of the seat area and through the valve), it no longer moves when heated.
I dropped it into a pot of boiling water and the valve didn't budge off of its seat.
I went back to a stock t-stat for now and it works fine.
So, I took the t-stat out and this is what I found:
Not only is it physically mangled somehow (I suspect the seat seal was not designed for constant high RPM/high flow and it was forced up and out of the seat area and through the valve), it no longer moves when heated.
I dropped it into a pot of boiling water and the valve didn't budge off of its seat.
I went back to a stock t-stat for now and it works fine.
You'll definitely know if it fails.
You have never seen temps go so high, so fast.
Yet, the rad will feel cool to the touch.
I didn't replace my water pump with another from MazMart because I didn't want to spend the full purchase price every year to keep the thing functioning.
I'm just gonna move the impeller over to another OE pump and call it a day.
As for the t-stat, I'll find a comparable one at Kragen/Checker/Shucks.
You have never seen temps go so high, so fast.
Yet, the rad will feel cool to the touch.
I didn't replace my water pump with another from MazMart because I didn't want to spend the full purchase price every year to keep the thing functioning.
I'm just gonna move the impeller over to another OE pump and call it a day.
As for the t-stat, I'll find a comparable one at Kragen/Checker/Shucks.
true ... Jeff also tracks his 8 more than anyone I have ever met... so that is definitely a contributing factor ... it is still something to consider when buying this part used tho IMHO
the thing is that this part failing can easily lead to a more expensive rebuild
the thing is that this part failing can easily lead to a more expensive rebuild
Last edited by stinksause; Jul 1, 2010 at 01:55 PM.
There is no reason that this water pump would fail any earlier than an OEM unit...it should be balanced a lot better...and should be easier on the bearings..
There are a number of reasons for water pump bearing failure...a lot of them are coolant and belt related....Running straight water without corrosion products...and over tightening the belt are very common failure modes
There are a number of reasons for water pump bearing failure...a lot of them are coolant and belt related....Running straight water without corrosion products...and over tightening the belt are very common failure modes
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