Mazda just replaced my manual transmission. I noticed on the way home, the car keeps stalling when I put it in nuetral. The revs are dropping to around 500 or lower every time I put it in nuetral and it dies. Could this have something to do with them resetting the ecu and do I have to take it back to them to fix it or will it go away after a few drive cycles?

 

Did you remember to plug in the neutral switch connectors (two white connectors)?

 

The dealership did the tranny swap but if you could give me an idea where to look, I could check that out if I can even get under my car

 

straight back at 'em and a big negative mark for service if they dont fi it asap.

 

Tell me about it. I was so pissed because I picked up the car at the end of the day and everyone already left by the time I realized what was going on. I'm telling you I was about to pull an Operation Iraqi Freedom.

 

On the driver's side of the transmission you'll see the drain plug at the bottom.
From the drain plug, move to the top of the transmission and a little back... you'll see the sensor.
The connectors are right by it.

 

I appreciate it. I know this sounds ghetto but it looks like I'm gonna just use the scissor jack and maybe a brick. I need something to use as a jack stand.

 

Please ask around for a jack stand... one of your friends must have one.
You don't want to trust the scissor jack while you're under the car!

That said... if the connectors are attached, take it back to the dealer like Zoom suggested.
Its also possible they could have pulled the wires.

 

Dang... be careful if you need to buy Jack stands do it. Don't even go under a car that's not properly jacked. I have seen someone killed from a truck that fell off a jack in the late 70's.

 

Yeah you're right about the jack stands. That's the last time I'm doing that. The connectors look like they're connected so now I'm wondering if this has something to do with an ecu reset and the car needs time to figure itself out. I have no clue.

 

no they borked something. you could try the 20 brake stomp reset to clear the eshaft profile. even if it works i would be having a long conversation with the dealership and discussing with them the complaint you will be sending to mazda. the dealership doesnt want to get a bad survey so they will probably give you a couple free oil changes or something.

 

Alright so after a lovely conversation with the dealership about how my worn clutch that isn't burning or slipping is causing me to stall in neutral and how a service manager with no mechanical experience can diagnose what's wrong with the car and tell me it has nothing to do with the transmission install;
I get the car working. I turned the key to the "on" position and pumped the brakes about 25 times. The check engine light then began to flash and when it stopped I turned the car off. Car stalled twice on start up but after that, back to normal with no problems so far. I guess it had something to do with the ecu.
The only thing I can't figure out now is why there is no beeping at redline like usual. Anybody have a clue?

 

look at post #6

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=redline+beep

 

Hmmmm...I would've bet money on the neurtral switch. I'm glad it's working for you now. I can't believe the stealership gave you such a hard time, especially after you dropped mad coin on them.

As for the beep, I didn't read through the link that Mushkid provided, but I have no idea there.

 

You redlined a new gearbox? They need a gentle break-in as well in my opinion. Otherwise your asking for a shorter lifespan and some early grindage.

 

Ok the "beep" is working now. Sorry for the misrepresentation. The dealer/stealership gave me a "newer" transmission. 29k miles supposedly. That's the best the warranty company would do. At first they were trying to give me one with 83k on it. Yeah right.
Car is running fabulous right now although I can hear the new transmission. It makes a slight whirring sound when I rev the car. It sounds kind of cool actually.
The dealer told me that my clutch is absolutely fried and that it needs to be replaced immediately. They said that the disk was down to the rivets and that they could see fibers coming out of the disk. That's odd because my clutch doesn't smell like it's burning and the clutch isn't slipping.
Since the car has about 90k I'm thinking it's about time to change to clutch anyway. I know this has been beat to death but I'm thinking about going aftermarket. Centerforce Dual Friction sounds pretty good and they claim that the pedal will be softer than stock. I heard the Act HDMM I think is pretty good. Car is a daily driver, that's pretty obvious with the miles I have on it. I'm looking for something that will bite good and have good durability without being a pain in traffic. Might even get a stock replacement.
Recommendations would be great. Sorry for the long post.