RX8Maine

I decided to go ahead and do the clutch pedal adjustment as described here:

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=64

I came upon this through a thread in the RX-8 Discussion forum and could not find the original format post with illustrations. People seemed interested in doing this, so I decided to photograph my progress. Props to DaveT for the excellent instructions. I modified the process a bit, and hopefully the pictures will make it clear just how simple it is. If you have been putting this off, do it!!

There is another DIY for adding a pedal extension which is necessary if you are trying to get more than 1/2-5/8" out of this. I found that there was only a difference of one seat position between having the clutch too deep (with the throttle and brake comfortable) and just right (with the throttle and brake too close), so I thought 1/2" should do the trick. Sure enough, this method has made it perfect for me.

RX8Maine

This is what I bought, all from Lowes, for about $16:

The tapping block (from the flooring section) was the first thing I found that was plastic and the right thickness. It was $7, so someone could easily cut the cost down if they have a better source of plasic.

Metal screws ($3), felt pads ($3) and no-slip pads ($3). Impossible to buy only what I needed, but I am always in need of the pads for something anyway.

RX8Maine

I cut the tapping block down to the size that I needed, about 1.25"x1.5", and removed the thick section. I drilled the holes in such a way that they would be roughly level in the car, making the drilling easier. I took some time to get the holes countersunk properly for the screws. Here is everything ready to go into the car:

RX8Maine

There is a recessed area in the footwell where a bracket on the clutch lever arm makes contact to limit total travel. It is easy to see where the contact happens as the area is scarred. I confirmed that the block would fit in the recessed area and that the bracket would contact it before drilling. Note that the floor of this recessed area is not perfectly flat, so prepare your block so that the screws end up in a flat srea. This will make the drilling much easier.

I also measured the thickness of the block and pad together before installing them so I would know how much travel to adjust back in later. It was just a hair under 5/8". Since the pad is slightly compressible, the decrease in total travel will be about 1/2-9/16".

Here is the recessed area before and after the block went on (Note, 1 screw hidden under pad):

RX8Maine

I confirmed that the screws do NOT end up in the wheelwell. I made careful measurements inside and outside the car (in the wheel well) and am confident that the screws end up inside a hollow structural member and therefore should not be exposed to the elements.

I did all of the above first so that I could confirm that I liked the feel of the pedal depth with my seat adjusted for the throttle and brake before actually adjusting the pedal. That way, I could just remove everything if I wasn't happy with it.

Interestingly, the car started with only the block in place, but would no longer start when I added the additional pad. (due to the safety switch not being engaged)

With the pad on and engine running, however, I could put the car in gear and still had about 1/2" of travel from the block before the clutch would engage. Theoretically, that means further pedal adjustment was not required. I did it anyway to return to the stock total travel and be "safe."

RX8Maine

See the illustration below. This is the way you will see it if you are on your back on the floor of the footwell, looking up.

1) I measured the free play in my pedal. (1/4") This is supposed to be 1/2" per the shop manual, but I have never had a problem, so I am going to leave it as is.

2) BLUE OVAL: The lock nut (seen in picture) is 12mm. The actual bolt (head hidden in picture) is 13mm but once you loosen the lock nut, the bolt can be hand turned. I adjusted the pedal stop bolt outward (bolt moving toward rear of car) until the free play was increased to 3/4". This returned the TOTAL travel of the pedal back to stock, with an excess of free play. I then tightened the lock nut.

3) RED OVAL: The lock nut is 13mm. Again, once the lock nut was loosened, the shaft could be hand turned. I adjusted this inward (shaft moving toward front of car) until the free play was back to 1/4". This returned the free play to stock without changing the total travel. I thightened the lock nut.

4) GREEN OVAL: I placed the felt pad in the green actuator for the clutch safety switch, so that the car will start. I used felt here because there needs to be some slippage between the actuator and the button during travel.

The pedal is now 1/2" higher at rest, 1/2" higher at the end of free play, and 1/2" higher at the end of total travel. The clutch will never know the difference, but my left leg sure does!!

avakiannl

iTrader: (1)

Do you think there is enough adjustment to do the opposite? 1/2" lower at rest, 1/2" lower at end of free play and 1/2" lower at end of travel? (or if more than 1/2" how much further away can I get the pedal?) Thanks.

SC-ed

I did it today. My clutch pedal is 3/4" higher now.
But I didn't want to drill the car so I made a longer stop bracket for the clutch pedal like on the pic.
And I removed the green actuator for the other switch, which is pressed when the pedal is resting so the pedal rests on the bolt, not on the switch.
Getting used to the new driving position now.

SC-ed

You can, but you will shorten the standard pedal stroke which is 130 mm. I don't think it's a problem with a good clutch disk.

RX8Maine

1/2" lower at the end of travel will require that you cut the metal bracket off the pedal arm. That wouldn't get you much as the pedal arm would then stop on the wall (the recessed area for the bracket is almost 1/2" deep).

Why would you want your clutch pedal going deeper into the floor?????

RX8Maine

I thought about doing something like that also, but in the end I felt that a block on the floor is more permanent and solid.

The screws are NOT exposed to the elements in this location, and drilling/tapping into the firewall is OK as long as you leave no holes into the passenger compartment from the engine bay (for safety) or the outside (for comfort and protection from water/salt).

avakiannl

iTrader: (1)

My legs are long and arms are short, cannot heal-toe because the steering wheel is in the way. If I could move the steering wheel closer to me or the pedals further away I could drive much better.

irq5

Sorry to ressurect this thread, but my clutch engagement point is sitting maybe 2 millimeters off of the floor - that can't be right, right?

My clutch pedal is at about the same height as my brake and accelerator pedals, so I don't think there's a problem there. If I adjust the "free play" bolt as above, will the engagement point move a bit off of the floor without changing the overall height of the clutch pedal?