{ FS } 2004 RX8 GT, Nordic Green
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Banned
Joined: Feb 2025
Posts: 9
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From: FL
2004 RX8 GT, Nordic Green
Year: 2027
Make: Acura
Model: ZDX
Price: $1
Mileage: 1
Color: black
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (US State/Canada/Int): AL
Jeid54
Last edited by mspeedman; Mar 7, 2025 at 04:52 PM.
looks clean, is that bird **** on the pass fender or a paint issue? hot start issues arent always a good way to determine compression, it can only be done with a rotary compression tester. fyi two rennys dont equal a four rotor, it just doesnt work that way. anyway has the spare drivetrain been comp tested? btw if this is a dealer car mods will lock this. mods will also lock it without an actual price and some may message ya about the last last line in the post cause nobody has a sense of humor anymore.
glws and you can sell the drivetrain pretty quickly if its priced right and know to be healthy
glws and you can sell the drivetrain pretty quickly if its priced right and know to be healthy
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Feb 2025
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: FL
looks clean, is that bird **** on the pass fender or a paint issue? hot start issues arent always a good way to determine compression, it can only be done with a rotary compression tester. fyi two rennys dont equal a four rotor, it just doesnt work that way. anyway has the spare drivetrain been comp tested? btw if this is a dealer car mods will lock this. mods will also lock it without an actual price and some may message ya about the last last line in the post cause nobody has a sense of humor anymore.
glws and you can sell the drivetrain pretty quickly if its priced right and know to be healthy
glws and you can sell the drivetrain pretty quickly if its priced right and know to be healthy
It is not a dealer car, those were pics from my temp tag after I bought it.
As for the price, It's a free country, and humorous or not, who owns all the banks and controls the interest rates all throughout the globe? Might be worth a history lesson for those "offended" by facts, and shockingly on other people's behalf, making it not their business... I've never seen a banker buy a property at close to market price. At the least, a parenting lesson that being an adult means everyone doesn't have to like everything, nobody has to kiss your ***, and everyone should mind their own business..." just because I can see your teeth does not mean I am your dentist"... a valuable lesson for everyone.
As for the extra engine and tranny swap, all the accessories are taken off of it and it was bought from a JDM supplier.
If anyone wants to pay for a compression test, they are free to. It would be stupid for me to pay $200/hr to have the dealer to test it when anything can happen to any car after testing it.
I myself am happy with it and think anyone will enjoy this car very much knowing it's not been beat on. It fires up great and drives great.
Last edited by mspeedman; Mar 7, 2025 at 04:50 PM.
easy killer, just trying to help and inform ya of the rules. personally im not offended nor care too much for certain rules. as i said it looks clean but most people on this site would want a comp test. again not bustin ***** and glws
I'm not trying to thread bash, but I would like to point out a few things that are concerns that should be worth pointing out for potential buyers that seem a little inconsistent.
Why did you buy this in the first place? Are there issues with your motor?
"JDM" engines and transmissions are nothing special for this car and are higher milage engines (60,000km or higher) that are near death majority of the time. They seem good on paper because people think of other platforms and the "halo" motors, but a Renesis is not one of those and there's little value in a engine that is borderline compression.
Additionally if you bought the car to plan to 4-rotor swap it, why bother even spending the money on another Renesis engine from a importer? Seems pretty wasteful.
Allow me to line this up; 88,000 miles at purchase, you then put 500 miles right away, and then 2,000 miles over the last 12 months.
So as soon as you got home you put 1/3 quart of ATF through it and barely drove it after doing that? Or was it ATF at 1,000 miles like your other sale thread from last month, when you talked about selling the extra engine or the motor in your car right now... Was buying a whole replacement engine and transmission was just for fun?
You haven't compression tested it to get any kind of baseline? We understand numbers can change, but honestly looks more like you're hiding something. Especially when you have posted in a thread about 3rd brake light electrical issues and questions about "Common Shorting Issues?" cause your battery is running dry.
These are direct, full quotes from your other posts/threads. Nothing taken out of context here. You're having some electrical issues with the car yet neglected to mention that.
Majority of items you replaced are wear & tear items. That is standard maintenance and doesn't really add any value to the car, it is the lack of doing those things that would affect the value and only in a negative way. You have pictures shared of the car over a year old now, so again not an accurate representation of the -current- condition of the car.
Also if its helpful information your car appears to be a Touring trim, not a Grand Touring trim, and important to outline you should be (per your information) around 91,000 miles which is getting high on the original engine especially on a 2004 production year.
I point all these things out because anyone with just 3 minutes worth of time can find these things I mentioned. It would be more beneficial to yourself and to your sale post to be transparent and address these concerns as well as uploading new pictures of the car in its current condition. Without a compression test to at least get a starting baseline of the engine health, you'd probably be lucky to get $6,500 given the leaking headlight/taillight and electrical concerns. The extra motor and condition that cannot be tested and which you acquired second hand from the original JDM engine purchaser is also unknown condition/mileage/compression and with all components factored in might be just another $1,200 worth of sale value Just prepare to temper your expectations, you will likely sell for much lower than what you are into the car.
Hopefully you can shed some light on things that were outlined and provide current pictures of the car. I'm not trying to say you couldn't get closer to your sale price, only that more information and clarification is going to be needed if you hope to get that, and if that's available then absolutely its worth providing so you can get that value in your sale. It's a give and take. Good luck with sale.
-S1 Full engine and tranny swap also that may come with the car if you pay full asking price.
It is an extra, clean, full JDM renesis, 6-port swap with 6 speed transmission, and all components from airbox to exhaust manifold including ECU. (Stainless exhaust manifold included).
It is an extra, clean, full JDM renesis, 6-port swap with 6 speed transmission, and all components from airbox to exhaust manifold including ECU. (Stainless exhaust manifold included).
"JDM" engines and transmissions are nothing special for this car and are higher milage engines (60,000km or higher) that are near death majority of the time. They seem good on paper because people think of other platforms and the "halo" motors, but a Renesis is not one of those and there's little value in a engine that is borderline compression.
Additionally if you bought the car to plan to 4-rotor swap it, why bother even spending the money on another Renesis engine from a importer? Seems pretty wasteful.
Single owner had for 20 years and 88,000 miles, was bought my me (a 40 year-old dude who rides a bicycle for transport mostly), driven 500 miles home the same day, and only driven for 1 year and a little over 2000 miles, with seafoam in the gas every other tank of gas.
I ran 1/3 quart ATF through it after 500 miles, changed the oil about 400 miles ago, and that is a good way to keep any engine living long and healthy, every 15,000 miles. This engine pulls very nicely.
So as soon as you got home you put 1/3 quart of ATF through it and barely drove it after doing that? Or was it ATF at 1,000 miles like your other sale thread from last month, when you talked about selling the extra engine or the motor in your car right now... Was buying a whole replacement engine and transmission was just for fun?
You haven't compression tested it to get any kind of baseline? We understand numbers can change, but honestly looks more like you're hiding something. Especially when you have posted in a thread about 3rd brake light electrical issues and questions about "Common Shorting Issues?" cause your battery is running dry.
Anyone have any problems with a short to ground and draining their battery from this?
I searched the threads for shorts because mine drained after 2 weeks of not driving.
Got all good fuses and relays, new alternator, new starter, new battery... No even enough juice to light up the dash.
I searched the threads for shorts because mine drained after 2 weeks of not driving.
Got all good fuses and relays, new alternator, new starter, new battery... No even enough juice to light up the dash.
Did you ever have a shorting issue in your RX8?
I checked the fuses, relays and all were good. The starter was bad and replaced it; I thought that was the source of drainage because a bad starter could have been a short internally.
The alternator was good and also recently replaced, and the battery was replaced; i just went to drive it after 2 weeks singl since replacing the starter and driving it, and no dash lights at all.
Just wondering if it's a common rx8 thing.
I did see another thread about the trunk 3rd brake light harness being a source of frayed wires and possible location of a short, and will check that tomorrow in daylight, but anyone got any other common short issues?.
It is a bone stock rx8. BONE stock, no LED's, no aftermarket stereo, nothing.
I checked the fuses, relays and all were good. The starter was bad and replaced it; I thought that was the source of drainage because a bad starter could have been a short internally.
The alternator was good and also recently replaced, and the battery was replaced; i just went to drive it after 2 weeks singl since replacing the starter and driving it, and no dash lights at all.
Just wondering if it's a common rx8 thing.
I did see another thread about the trunk 3rd brake light harness being a source of frayed wires and possible location of a short, and will check that tomorrow in daylight, but anyone got any other common short issues?.
It is a bone stock rx8. BONE stock, no LED's, no aftermarket stereo, nothing.
Majority of items you replaced are wear & tear items. That is standard maintenance and doesn't really add any value to the car, it is the lack of doing those things that would affect the value and only in a negative way. You have pictures shared of the car over a year old now, so again not an accurate representation of the -current- condition of the car.
Also if its helpful information your car appears to be a Touring trim, not a Grand Touring trim, and important to outline you should be (per your information) around 91,000 miles which is getting high on the original engine especially on a 2004 production year.
I point all these things out because anyone with just 3 minutes worth of time can find these things I mentioned. It would be more beneficial to yourself and to your sale post to be transparent and address these concerns as well as uploading new pictures of the car in its current condition. Without a compression test to at least get a starting baseline of the engine health, you'd probably be lucky to get $6,500 given the leaking headlight/taillight and electrical concerns. The extra motor and condition that cannot be tested and which you acquired second hand from the original JDM engine purchaser is also unknown condition/mileage/compression and with all components factored in might be just another $1,200 worth of sale value Just prepare to temper your expectations, you will likely sell for much lower than what you are into the car.
Hopefully you can shed some light on things that were outlined and provide current pictures of the car. I'm not trying to say you couldn't get closer to your sale price, only that more information and clarification is going to be needed if you hope to get that, and if that's available then absolutely its worth providing so you can get that value in your sale. It's a give and take. Good luck with sale.
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From: FL
Thanks for not being douchey. You gonna complain that i posted about looking for weather tech floor mats also? Floor mats might be a huge buyer concern also.
Last edited by mspeedman; Mar 7, 2025 at 05:36 PM.
Thanks for not being douchey. You gonna complain that i posted about floor mats also? Floor mats might be a huge buyer concern also.
20 years in condition seen, plus one more of me barely driving it; you're right, it must be neat to sit and not look the same at all.
Seeing I posted these topics after i posted the car got same, you're right, I have updated the original post notating that I got the shorting issue from the trunk sorted out this afternoon; I'm going to also post every time I go to the **** now also, just so everyone knows I'm not hiding anything else.
And yes, about from the cooling system, bilstein suspension, and custom exhaust, everything else replaced is wear and tear item, and usually for a used car if this age; you may not agree with the fact that those things cost money, but they do, and some people value buying a car that has been well-cared for, maintained properly, and with OEM or better parts, and especially doesn't have to worry about them breaking down, troubleshooting, or paying for those new parts themselves.
What does one gain from shitposting in another thread anyway? You trying to jew down the price without even buying it?
20 years in condition seen, plus one more of me barely driving it; you're right, it must be neat to sit and not look the same at all.
Seeing I posted these topics after i posted the car got same, you're right, I have updated the original post notating that I got the shorting issue from the trunk sorted out this afternoon; I'm going to also post every time I go to the **** now also, just so everyone knows I'm not hiding anything else.
And yes, about from the cooling system, bilstein suspension, and custom exhaust, everything else replaced is wear and tear item, and usually for a used car if this age; you may not agree with the fact that those things cost money, but they do, and some people value buying a car that has been well-cared for, maintained properly, and with OEM or better parts, and especially doesn't have to worry about them breaking down, troubleshooting, or paying for those new parts themselves.
What does one gain from shitposting in another thread anyway? You trying to jew down the price without even buying it?
Addendum: As stated, I only drove the car 2000 miles since buying it, which means I rarely drive it, and is also why I am selling it. It has never given me any problems until about a month ago when the battery and starter were both old and bad; tested by the shop and recommended new parts. The CARFAX reflects that work done at the shop. Yesterday, or the day before, March 6 or 5, after having posted the car for sale, I went to drive and the battery was drained.
March 7 I fixed the trunk harness that was shorting and draining the battery, which I found out about, after posting the car for sale. Some phaggot shitposted in the thread below alluding to believing I was somehow trying to pull a fast one.
Feel free to have the car inspected before you buy it, and if you have nothing better to do than make accusations without asking questions, find another car, in another thread. Thank you.
-Mike
March 7 I fixed the trunk harness that was shorting and draining the battery, which I found out about, after posting the car for sale. Some phaggot shitposted in the thread below alluding to believing I was somehow trying to pull a fast one.
Feel free to have the car inspected before you buy it, and if you have nothing better to do than make accusations without asking questions, find another car, in another thread. Thank you.
-Mike
But what do I know, I'm just some "phaggot" trying to pull a fast one on a ******* idiot who cant see I'm trying to give constructive feedback for things for him to be able to review and highlight to be able to restructure his for sale thread on a clean and hard to come by 8 color so he can justify his asking price.
Mods go ahead and give me a vacation for standing up for myself to this fucktard.
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